Was that an old EP civic or the FN shape?When I did my old black Civic I found the paint wasn't TOO bad.
Hex pad and a couple of megs compounds worked well.
Cheers Kev I'll give that a go. Going to need to brush up on my technique I think. Don't think I'm really getting the levels of correction I should with certain pad and polish combos. Not touched the civic yet mind, so will need to see how that goes.Lime Prime was more than enough for me, I don't think i've ever use a compound or medium polish on Honda or Subaru paint.
Technique and pad.
Was that an old EP civic or the FN shape?
A mate had an EP2 and his paint wasn't that soft. Mine on an FN3 though is so soft I marked it with a drying towel last night! Lol
Does anyone have any tips before I give the new daily (honda civic) a quick machine polishing? 'Tis VERY swirly. I know the paint is soft so don't want to go at it too much. Especially without a paint depth gauge.
Thinking about trying a white hex pad with something like tripple or lime prime at first and see how much it actually does. Car is black though so I want to do my best to avoid marring or leaving buffer trails.
Will have a read up on that. Never thought of marking the backing plate to keep track of the speed before either!Pics of swirly bus? Did you get the black type S?
Read up on the zenith technique, draw a black mark on the backing pad and alter your pressure so the pad is spinning at around the same rpm/opm on every speed setting to get the best cut and finish. That works best in my experience.
Cheers! Yeah, hoping for a nice deep glossy finish when it's done. No idea how I'm going to keep it in it's polished condition though! Won't want to touch wash it lol, as I said above, I actually could see myself leaving marks as I was drying it with a drying towel last night (I know I know, should be dabbing and not wiping it anyway :tongueoutThat looks nice, and it'll be so rewarding to correct!
I'm not sure whether the marking a line thing is recommended or correct or what but I get great results with its help.
Cheers! Yeah, hoping for a nice deep glossy finish when it's done. No idea how I'm going to keep it in it's polished condition though! Won't want to touch wash it lol, as I said above, I actually could see myself leaving marks as I was drying it with a drying towel last night (I know I know, should be dabbing and not wiping it anyway :tongueout
My clio just won't owt dry for some reason is that usual pmsl?Contactless washes and patting dry ftw
Or just don't wash it lol
Cheers! Yeah, hoping for a nice deep glossy finish when it's done. No idea how I'm going to keep it in it's polished condition though! Won't want to touch wash it lol, as I said above, I actually could see myself leaving marks as I was drying it with a drying towel last night (I know I know, should be dabbing and not wiping it anyway :tongueout
Does driving it round the block ever leave any watermarks etc? So if you snowfoam then rinse then snowfoam then wash with 2bm then rinse then go for a drive it'll all dry without water spots etc?Future washes should be done the normal way pre cleansing etc and when it comes to the actual wash shove a layer of snow foam on the car to help with lube. Then finish with hydr02, dry off with the hose the best you can then drive around the block.
Does driving it round the block ever leave any watermarks etc? So if you snowfoam then rinse then snowfoam then wash with 2bm then rinse then go for a drive it'll all dry without water spots etc?
Ah, might not be great for me then I don't usually use reload I just wax it, would that be okay still do you think?Yes it usually beads right off. The only thing I usually do is reload all of the windows after.
Yep I still love my carpro wash mitt
Sorry mate it was early I really hadn't engaged brain. I am pretty clued up haha just a lapse in concentration haha!You've confused me.
My advice above was so Sean could keep tha car looking fresh with the least amount of contact to the paint.
If you're waxing you're making contact with paint, if not using the correct applicator with the correct technique you can be causing damage especially the softer paints.
Ah I've got you, I use Done and Dusted it really is a great product to be honest. So I should wash the car then QD then pressure wash and then open ended hose to dry then take it for a spin to get it all out of the sills etc?After you've washed it, rinse it and while it's still wet, Mist it with a qd (I'm loving auto finesse glisten atm...although it's not marketed as a qd), pressure rinse, then final rinse with an open ended hose to dry
@Bear Head
Won't let me quote for some reason
Ah I've got you, I use Done and Dusted it really is a great product to be honest. So I should wash the car then QD then pressure wash and then open ended hose to dry then take it for a spin to get it all out of the sills etc?
So I'm using the right amount? Should I be able to see a coating on the surface or is that using too much product?2 minutes is not long at all, I'd do 2 panels, then alternate between applying and buffing. Multiple layers should also help.
To better explain what I mean:
Apply panel 1, Apply panel 2, buff panel 1, apply panel 3, buff panel 2, apply panel 4 etc etc. Their actual instructions iirc say to apply to whole car before buffing, but depending how slow you apply it it will be a right pain to get off!
In my experience, AG HD wax tends to go on quite thick so shows up a very noticeable coating on the car. Some softer waxes go on a lot thinner and are very hard to see.So I'm using the right amount? Should I be able to see a coating on the surface or is that using too much product?
Right guys I need some help with waxing as I'm not getting much durability (about 3 months with AG HD Wax and 4 months with Fusso99).
My current method is half turn in the pot of wax and apply to panel in swirl motions, half a turn being enough for each panel of the car. I leave the panel to cure for about 2 minutes then buff off.
Where am I going wrong? Should I be using more product? Should I be allowing it to cure for longer? I've tried doing the whole car and then buffing off but the wax feels like it needs chipped off then.
Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
How are you judging the drop in protection?Right guys I need some help with waxing as I'm not getting much durability (about 3 months with AG HD Wax and 4 months with Fusso99).
My current method is half turn in the pot of wax and apply to panel in swirl motions, half a turn being enough for each panel of the car. I leave the panel to cure for about 2 minutes then buff off.
Where am I going wrong? Should I be using more product? Should I be allowing it to cure for longer? I've tried doing the whole car and then buffing off but the wax feels like it needs chipped off then.
Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
I've been decontaminating with a clay mitt, but I've just purchased TRIX by Car Pro and have added that stage in now.Are you decontaminating and cleansing the paint first or are you just washing then waxing?
Yeah still some protection but not as good as some of the tight beading pictures people post here.How are you judging the drop in protection?
It will bead less over time but does it act like completely bare paint when clean? If it doesn't then there is some protection there
Maybe a tad off topic, but has anyone used any detailing products for other uses?
Just got a new pair of sunglasses (+ Thinking of doing the same for my cycling glasses) and looking at sealing the glass on them, rainX/ C2v3/ G1 type of thing? Any recommendations? or just got for a specialist sunglasses wax?
Think I remember reading someone using something on their shower door and entire bathroom in a sealant hahaha.Jd did his three piece suite iirc.
I rainX my bathroom and my exterior windows every now and then. And I used some of my excess verso mix on things around the house lol.