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Fitting matched inlets?

W

Whitetac

How long should fitting new matched upper and lower inlets take? Can it be done by myself(some mechanical knowhow) and if so is there a guide anywhere? I have tried searching but to no avail! If it's not that easy, how much should I expect to pay a garage to fit them? Cheers, jack
 
They can be a pain, but the 172 cup is generally easier than the other models.

I'm in horley right next to Gatwick, feel free to bring the car to me mate and call it a drink for fitting them.
 
jpdoyle said:
How long should fitting new matched upper and lower inlets take? Can it be done by myself(some mechanical knowhow) and if so is there a guide anywhere? I have tried searching but to no avail! If it's not that easy, how much should I expect to pay a garage to fit them? Cheers, jack
Click to expand...

Not too bad at all!
Took me an hour and a half to do it on my car, and I have never buggered around in my engine bay before haha.
 
^ That only shows you removing the upper inlet, it's the lower half that is the difficult part.
I normally remove the drivers side engine mount and support the engine on a jack just so I can get better access to remove the lower inlet.
 
shiyan said:
I'm attemting it myself this weekend.

This guide should get you mostly there: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?517416-clio-172-182-spark-plug-change-a-picture-guide

But you'll need liquid gasket as well I think.

Does anyone know if it's hard to change the engine mounts if you have a jack? I haven't figured out how to remove the battery yet and haven't found a guide.
Click to expand...

Very easy to change the engine mounts using a jack.

But if you havent sussed out how to remove the battery, then I wouldnt advise undertaking the challenge..
 
jack_davey said:
^ That only shows you removing the upper inlet, it's the lower half that is the difficult part.
I normally remove the drivers side engine mount and support the engine on a jack just so I can get better access to remove the lower inlet.
Click to expand...
Thanks, where should I support the engine with the jack, the oilpan? I've seen a mechanic do it once but forgot to check where he placed the jack
 
Nickson said:
Very easy to change the engine mounts using a jack.

But if you havent sussed out how to remove the battery, then I wouldnt advise undertaking the challenge..
Click to expand...
Just never worked on my own car before. Will purchase the various tools that are needed before this weekend.

Any tips for the battery? Once it's out of the way is it hard to change the gearbox mount? I assume the engine needs to be supported by a jack again?
 
yeah there should be a relatively flat area on there somewhere, just make sure you have a good quality jack with a nice rubber pad that wont damage the sump.

Oh and dont jack it too far as it will put excessive strain on the other mounts aswell as the exhaust manifold and the gearlinkage.
 
jack_davey said:
yeah there should be a relatively flat area on there somewhere, just make sure you have a good quality jack with a nice rubber pad that wont damage the sump.

Oh and dont jack it too far as it will put excessive strain on the other mounts aswell as the exhaust manifold and the gearlinkage.
Click to expand...
Thanks :)

Is it necessary to remove the plastic cover underneath first?
 
piece of cake to do it, undo all the bolts, then undo the one you missed on the very left at 90 degree's to the other bolts under the engine mount. should take about 10 minutes to take the top one off then a little longer for the lower half.

get a set of new gaskets for it, theyre only cheap from renault
 
hipwell said:
well seen as though you cant see the sump with the plastic cover on id assume so ;)
Click to expand...

Haha good point.

So to change the spark plugs, HT leads, coilpack, matched inlets, and uprated engine mounts I will need:

jackstands
jack
Torx screwdriver
rachet, extension and a bunch of sockets
some spanners
torque wrench?
liquid gasket

Not sure if I've missed anything
 
And a spark plug remover if thats not already in your box of sockets as they are faily deep down and a normal socket with an extension wont be able to grip onto the plug.
 
No liquid gasket required, a universal joint and various extensions for your sockets will come in handy plus a 10mm ratchet spanner to take out the studs for the fuel rail guard.
 
hipwell said:
And a spark plug remover if thats not already in your box of sockets as they are faily deep down and a normal socket with an extension wont be able to grip onto the plug.
Click to expand...
Thanks :D
jack_davey said:
No liquid gasket required, a universal joint and various extensions for your sockets will come in handy plus a 10mm ratchet spanner to take out the studs for the fuel rail guard.
Click to expand...
Just use the existing gasket? :)
 
If a few in this thread are removing/fitting the lower inlet - take a few pics and post them up? :)

Been a lot of folk asking about it over the last few weeks - me being one of them! :o lol
 
shiyan said:
Thanks :D

Just use the existing gasket? :)
Click to expand...

Could do, but I'd have a new one on standby as you'll be f*cked if it breaks when you remove the old one.

If anyone needs any desperate help pm me and I'll give you my number and you can just call me
 
How do you get the fuel rail off without spraying petrol all over the place, or blowing the car up? :o
 
Tigger said:
How do you get the fuel rail off without spraying petrol all over the place, or blowing the car up? :o
Click to expand...

If you leave the car parked up at night the fuel pressure will of decayed by the morning. If you've been driving it and want to take the bottom inlet off straight away then lift up the rear bench seat pull of the large plastic cover, drivers side, on floor. You will see the electrical plug which connects to the fuel pump, disconnect this and crank the engine on the starter, the engine will fire up for a few seconds the die. You can now remove the fuel rail and inlet manifold.
 
Leave the fuel rail attached, I didn't take mine off when I swapped inlets years ago, just pulled the injectors out.
My car was stood still for a month and pissed fuel everywhere when I disconnected the fuel rail
 
Tigger said:
How did you fair out mate? :)
Click to expand...
Removing the inlet plenum wasn't so hard, but the lower inlet is the difficult bit with some hidden bolts. The engine also needs to be supported by a jack under the sump. Easiest way to locate the hidden bolts is to have the matched inlet besides you to locate all of them.

The last bolt requires a universal joint which I didn't have so I had to wait till today to buy one. Should hopefully finish it tonight.

Worked for 4 hours so far and I think there's another 3 to go to finish it.
 
Awesome craic then!

What someone told me would be an hours work would turn out to be a whole nightmare! lol
 
I've never worked on my car before and I didn't want to break anything so I'm probably rather slow.

Perhaps if you're an expert mechanic and very familiar with the 172 it could be possible in an hour.
 
Wasn't getting at you mate, its this James May tigger type. He likes to name all the bolts as he takes them off which is why it takes so long :P
 
Ooooh - up for fitting mine then Clarkson? :)

Be another day's banter I'm sure - hopefuly for good reason rather than the last time like the rear discs - NEVER want to change those again lol

There's another Mars bar in it for you, maybe two if I get to name the bolts ;)
 
Lower inlet is really difficult to get off.

I've removed all the bolts but it seems to still be held in place by the aircon bracket (at least that's what I think it is)

Banging it seems to move it to the right but I'm not sure if that's the right way to do it so I stopped.
 
Yeah that's right, it's normally held in quite tight, so a light tap with a soft blow hammer on the left hand side will slide it out to the right and enable you to get it out.
 
jack_davey said:
Yeah that's right, it's normally held in quite tight, so a light tap with a soft blow hammer on the left hand side will slide it out to the right and enable you to get it out.
Click to expand...
Thanks! :)

So to fit the matched lower inlet I'll have to bang it in from the right? Won't the gasket get knackered? :o
 
Yes! Got the old lower inlet off and the new lower inlet on. Some cut knuckles as result.

Loosening the bolt that holds the AC bracket onto the engine block helped.
 
Can't figure out where this pipe is supposed to connect to - the one coming out of the throttle body

IMG_0226.webp
 
Found it, but have a misfire :(

New coilpack + old everything = worked fine

New coilpack, new HT leads, new spark plugs, changed inlets = misfire

sigh
 
Found the problem. I wasn't careful enough when putting on the inlet plenum and didn't move the cables out to the allocated gap, so ended up squishing them between the engine block and intake plenum, destroying it.

90 Euros down the drain :(

I took pictures and will take some more tomorrow. A bit tired now lol
 
The old leads will work for now but I'll have to get the plenum off to change the leads, and then replace them again when I get the new leads (again)

I guess I was bound to mess something up seeing as it was my first time working on the car
 
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