Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
Would a mod be able to stick this post? I have done it for various people.
After a few requests i thought it might as well put a guide together for the fitting of an fog light located air feed for the BMC CDA/Viper etc etc...
This guide is only applicable to the Mk1 172 (RS-1). Other models differ in the routing of the hose and bell mouth.
Firstly you will need to remove the OE feed. If you are running a standard cylindrical airbox, each of the two feeds to the airbox clip out easily. If you are running an aftermarket system the feeds will be loose, if not removed completely.
The other end of the OE feed is connected to the arch liner and front bumper. This can be removed from it's housing using a pair of flat blade screwdrivers. With the OE feed removed it will just pull free from the car. Keep this just incase you ever want to revert back to the OE airbox.
Next up is to remove the battery. This is not essential, although it helps a great deal in locating the new air feed if you can see a clear route.
REMEMBER - DO NOT disconnect your battery if you don't have your radio code! You will lose all presets and it will revert to factory settings. As well as blocking you out if you don't have the code.:dapprove:
Next job is to clear the path for your new air feed. Starting with the removal of the fog light.
From the front of the car, two small Torx retaining screws will be visible, take these out. The are T10 iirc.
Once they have been removed the lamp and shroud should become loose, pull this out and unclip the block connector. You should then be looking at something like this...
The three small nuts on the back need to be removed in order to seperate the lamp from the shroud. This is nessasary as the shroud will be used to mount the bell mouth.
Voila!
The only problem to deal with is the now-homeless block connector. On my car i have sealed it up and used two zip ties to secure it to the car inside the bumper. As long as it's not exposed to weather all the time it should be fine.
With the lower part of the install cleared, next job is to route the feed from the inlet of the aftermarket kit down to the foglight recess. The process for this is very much trial and error and i can't really explain how i routed mine. However there is one route which is a great deal wider. Start to route from the bonnet side and work downwards, through the OE feeds starting point and head downwards past the battery cage. The space then opens up enough to get your hand round and feed it through to the fog light recess.
Be prepared to fiddle with the route once you have your battery back in place though, if it fouls the feed at all.
Now for the final stage of the install. Mounting the bell mouth in the foglight shroud. Now that you have this...
You need to seat the bell mouth in the shroud and hold it a secure position. When you are happy with the position apply a permanant adesive to the two parts. There is enough contact area to give a good seal, leave to set for around 30-40 mins.
Please note - This then turns your fog light shroud into an air feed. To use both fog lights again you will need to buy a new shroud from Renault. These are circa £11+vat each.
All that is left to do is connect everything up using jubilee clips for the air feed and zip ties to clear away any stray wires. The shroud then sits back in it's original position as shown.
One of the easiest and most beneficial mods you can do on your 172.
I also sprayed the bell mouth from my Viper kit in the same colour as the shroud. I tried it with the red bell mouth and it looked a bit tacky imo.
If you are going to do the same, make sure it's rough before you spray it and use a good few coats of primer.
Hope this is of some help to people. About an hour and a halfs work, tops.:approve:
Chris
After a few requests i thought it might as well put a guide together for the fitting of an fog light located air feed for the BMC CDA/Viper etc etc...
This guide is only applicable to the Mk1 172 (RS-1). Other models differ in the routing of the hose and bell mouth.
Firstly you will need to remove the OE feed. If you are running a standard cylindrical airbox, each of the two feeds to the airbox clip out easily. If you are running an aftermarket system the feeds will be loose, if not removed completely.
The other end of the OE feed is connected to the arch liner and front bumper. This can be removed from it's housing using a pair of flat blade screwdrivers. With the OE feed removed it will just pull free from the car. Keep this just incase you ever want to revert back to the OE airbox.
Next up is to remove the battery. This is not essential, although it helps a great deal in locating the new air feed if you can see a clear route.
REMEMBER - DO NOT disconnect your battery if you don't have your radio code! You will lose all presets and it will revert to factory settings. As well as blocking you out if you don't have the code.:dapprove:
Next job is to clear the path for your new air feed. Starting with the removal of the fog light.
From the front of the car, two small Torx retaining screws will be visible, take these out. The are T10 iirc.
Once they have been removed the lamp and shroud should become loose, pull this out and unclip the block connector. You should then be looking at something like this...
The three small nuts on the back need to be removed in order to seperate the lamp from the shroud. This is nessasary as the shroud will be used to mount the bell mouth.
Voila!
The only problem to deal with is the now-homeless block connector. On my car i have sealed it up and used two zip ties to secure it to the car inside the bumper. As long as it's not exposed to weather all the time it should be fine.
With the lower part of the install cleared, next job is to route the feed from the inlet of the aftermarket kit down to the foglight recess. The process for this is very much trial and error and i can't really explain how i routed mine. However there is one route which is a great deal wider. Start to route from the bonnet side and work downwards, through the OE feeds starting point and head downwards past the battery cage. The space then opens up enough to get your hand round and feed it through to the fog light recess.
Be prepared to fiddle with the route once you have your battery back in place though, if it fouls the feed at all.
Now for the final stage of the install. Mounting the bell mouth in the foglight shroud. Now that you have this...
You need to seat the bell mouth in the shroud and hold it a secure position. When you are happy with the position apply a permanant adesive to the two parts. There is enough contact area to give a good seal, leave to set for around 30-40 mins.
Please note - This then turns your fog light shroud into an air feed. To use both fog lights again you will need to buy a new shroud from Renault. These are circa £11+vat each.
All that is left to do is connect everything up using jubilee clips for the air feed and zip ties to clear away any stray wires. The shroud then sits back in it's original position as shown.
One of the easiest and most beneficial mods you can do on your 172.
I also sprayed the bell mouth from my Viper kit in the same colour as the shroud. I tried it with the red bell mouth and it looked a bit tacky imo.
If you are going to do the same, make sure it's rough before you spray it and use a good few coats of primer.
Hope this is of some help to people. About an hour and a halfs work, tops.:approve:
Chris
