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Gearbox out the bottom - Help me review my plan!



I read this the other day, so its easy to lift the gearbox out the top with the engine still sat in the bay yeah. Sounds like a much easier method but I read the discussions and a few people said it was a very tight squeeze? can you give me a few more tips?

Battery and all brackets out on the top of the gearbox, then jack on the sump and remove the bell housing bolts. (drive shafts and box oil drained out before), did I read the clutch can be unbolted for more space to lift the box up and out?
 
Edit: clearly I didnt read all the talk before in this thread about taking it out the top. Sounds a much better way if its about the same but saves time with the subframe and other items.

So the trick is to have the engine on a jack to raise or lower depending on what space you need to get the box out the top? Exhaust manifold off or fine with it on?

If one of you could list briefly your method for out the top I would appreciate it.
 
  Titanium 182
no probs. did there used to be a renault garage there?

think my gearbox is nearing the end of its life soon too. whines whilst in gear and not when the clutch is pressed! if you was closer my way id give you a hand pulling it out.
 
Yeah there was, was there for years and then shortly after getting the 182 they closed down and flats are being built there! Annoying!

Cheers anyway mate hopefully by the time I've got all the bits together I'll be more confident and pull it out one way or another!
 
  Titanium 182
yeah thought there was i remember taking my old clio there when i lived nearer. shame!

good luck with the change
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
Few pics to show the gap it comes out of from the one Nick and I did today. 2 hours out from starting!

u7e8ata7.jpg


ydyjequ5.jpg
 
Ah I see, 2 hours is a fantastic time!

I see in your text guide you say leave the aircon rad in if its holding pressure, is it easier to just de gas it then take it off along with all the coolant hoses in the way I guess?

Whats your method of getting the box off? is there enough room to unbolt the clutch plate whilst the box is on?

Any other tips very welcome !
 

coolspot007007

ClioSport Club Member
  Seat Leon Cupra
I followed Budgie's guide and got mine out of the top as both my rear subframe bolts had snapped clips that make them "captive". It is a bit fiddly, removing the clutch cover gives the extra space you need and I had a lot of engine up, gearbox down and vice versa towards the end but it will come out. The AC rad moves out of the way when the hoses are unbolted. I was doing it for the first time and on my own, so I found a ratchet strap useful to pull the engine tight to the drivers side for the last bit, and I needed to rotate the box a few times to get the right angle for removal/refitting.
 
I followed Budgie's guide and got mine out of the top as both my rear subframe bolts had snapped clips that make them "captive". It is a bit fiddly, removing the clutch cover gives the extra space you need and I had a lot of engine up, gearbox down and vice versa towards the end but it will come out. The AC rad moves out of the way when the hoses are unbolted. I was doing it for the first time and on my own, so I found a ratchet strap useful to pull the engine tight to the drivers side for the last bit, and I needed to rotate the box a few times to get the right angle for removal/refitting.

How long did it take you roughly?

The photos are helpful in terms of showing access, when the box went back in was it a case of getting the corners of the bell housing over the stud closest to the front of the engine then onto a jack until it meets the block?

Also I've never done anything to the gear linkage, is it just one bolt to un-do? does/how can it be marked if any previous alignment is to be kept?
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
With the sitcom rad, I always check to see if it's holding pressure. If not, it gets removed, if it is, I separate it from the coolant rad and just drop it down gap between the cross member and the subframe so it's by your ankles. Does no harm there.

Get all the bolts off the box, and wiggle the box off the two studs. One down the front and one under the starter motor. You need to undo the subframe bracket to the wishbone on the passenger side as you use this space to wiggle the box into.

Once you have enough space, the clutch plate is held on my 6x 11mm bolts. Remove this and the clutch will come off. Make note of what way the clutch plate sits in the cover as it's useful for refitting. Saves you ten minutes of wondering after you've been sweating and cursing for three hours. ;)

For the linkage alignment, if you're using the same box, scratch marks in it before you remove it. If it's a different box going in, you're going to have to guess.

If it'll help, drop me a PM and I'll give you my number to talk you through any sticky bits. If you get proper stuck, cover my fuel and I'll drive round and see what I can do matey..
 
Ok good, I guess the linkage can be un done another way, i.e removed from the box? will that matter if the box I get is undone that way?

PM'd budgie to see where he is located and also "sitcom" rad in the above post is the A/C rad (auto correct f**ked up)
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
Ok good, I guess the linkage can be un done another way, i.e removed from the box? will that matter if the box I get is undone that way?)

No, because the bolt only goes in one way, doing it this way, you won't have any trouble with selecting gears when you put it all back together.
 
  Lionel Richie
the problem with your method is - coolant, radiator, slam pannel, aircon, bumper etc etc, we don't touch any of that dropping the frame

swings and roundabouts!
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
Yeah, agreed on the swings and roundabouts.

On a ramp with air tools, I'd drop the frame too. On the floor, no chance.
 
Havent decided which way ill approach getting the box out yet, but when dropping the sub/f on the passengers side, how much of a drop is needed to clear the box coming out?

Am I right in thinking the drivers bolts stay in a few threads and the frame rests on the bolts, the the passenger sides come out completely then the frame can rest on something i.e. floor or stand.
 
No, because the bolt only goes in one way, doing it this way, you won't have any trouble with selecting gears when you put it all back together.


What bolt is this ?
Reason i ask is i am away to fit a replacement gearbox to my 172 and i have just fitted a clutch kit.
Anything that can make life easier is appreciated ;)
 
  Lionel Richie
Havent decided which way ill approach getting the box out yet, but when dropping the sub/f on the passengers side, how much of a drop is needed to clear the box coming out?

Am I right in thinking the drivers bolts stay in a few threads and the frame rests on the bolts, the the passenger sides come out completely then the frame can rest on something i.e. floor or stand.

take it off completley, i've seen fucked columns by doing it that way
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
What bolt is this ?
Reason i ask is i am away to fit a replacement gearbox to my 172 and i have just fitted a clutch kit.
Anything that can make life easier is appreciated ;)

Like danlp6 said, its under the rubber boot.
 

Scrooge

ClioSport Moderator
  E55 AMG
Id get too annoyed getting it out of the top. I must be lucky I've never had a subframe bolt f**k me about aprt from Luke's trophy but that was bent.

Impact driver helps the subframe come down in minutes, the only thing I hate doing is the steering rack bolts.
 
I hope I get lucky too, must be a way of greasing the rear bolts ?

I wont have access to a impact gun just going to use a breaker bar and try my best.

Testing my memory (sorry I know I keep repeating myself): 4 main bolts, 4? bolts holding the steering rack on, 1 fiddly heat shield bolt and a column to rack bolt and the sub frame drops ??
 
Without getting under the car I can't be 100% sure, but are these the rear sub bolts?

I've greased them on the outside, is there any access holes when underneath the car so I can spray the Insides?

Will be under the car In the week to remove the drivers front seat, hoping to kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360257418.428152.jpg
 

mgoode180566

ClioSport Club Member
  172 Sunflower
take the whole lump out. Do the clutch , sort the box. While you are at it have the belts changed and your good to go.

hire a crane for a day or so......

i have done a couple of clutches always done the other bits aswell. never fancied bench pressing a 35kg box on my own through the wheelarch on the ground.
 
Belts have been done mate, Unless someone tells be before hand Ill look under the car and see if there's an access hole whilst im removing the seat bolts.

Sub frame down will be my first attempt, If not Ill try taking the box alone out the top with budgies method.

The whole engine out seems more involved even though the time is roughly the same I've read.
 
I'm afraid I haven't got anywhere near it mate, reason being I had a rattle, changed the water pump and aux belt, still had the noise, need to fix this problem before I consider the gearbox :(
 
  Cup In bits
Sonny dont even attempt out the top tbh mate, I had a look at it while doing that last box and its a near impossible task without scratching/braking everything. Disconnect the ball joint on passenger side, shaft out, all frame bolts out incuding the pinch bolt for column, dog bone mount, gear linkage and the 4x 16mm rack mount bolts (leave the rack hanging) Jack under engine on the sump (block of wood) and remove the top gear box mount and lower engine/box down to an angle, remove bell housing bolts and starter bolts. You should manage to avoid removing drivers ball joint and shaft from hub if you swing the subframe towards the drivers side some more (no big issue if you have to remove it)

Box out and and opposite for back in, obviously remeber to drain oil first and any small clips for looms, coolant pipes and so on.
 


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