I know what you mean as I thought the same, but with the top of the strut staying in the same place then you have to move the wheel forwards to get more caster. By moving the inward hole further to the rear you are just increasing the angle of the ball joint but not moving the wheel forward so no increase in casterI mean move the inside hole backwards and then the outer hole forwards, this should increase the castor more without moving it too far forward.
I think that's what I mean anyway.
Agreed James one end the pivot point has to move, either strut top or ball joint pin has to move forward or back to get more but i think what tony is saying you could turn the ball joint to more of an angle getting some more caster without it being off the side of the arm. Space is obviously an issue but you can chop away most/all of the bumper bracket then I guess the next point is the front bib of the arch that Kenny has cut out??
Lol I will just give up I was only trying to help as I spent hours dicking around with my spare wishbones so didn't want you wasting a similar amount of time hahaYou got it.
Risk it for biscuit
Haha I have already marked mine up for trimming but i'm scared of grinders lol!haha I can see myself getting choppy with the inner arches.
Im pretty sure my car runs lower than most. FML
You understand what I mean then Chip.
Has anyone checked it see if this affected the camber in anyway at all? On a standard damper setup with no camber bolts surely it would give you a little bit of positive camber as in theory your bringing the hub inwards at the bottom but the stop is staying the same
Has anyone checked it see if this affected the camber in anyway at all? On a standard damper setup with no camber bolts surely it would give you a little bit of positive camber as in theory your bringing the hub inwards at the bottom but the stop is staying the same
Thats true! Probably wouldn't rub still either with both