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NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
They will do all the valves if your getting it ported out anyway mate. In fact they should be able to do the job lot, from skimming to porting so it's a ready to fit package.
I think you can skim loads off. I read a thread that suggested 40 thou to get to 12.3 cr from a reputable (at the time) tuner. I guess the real answer depends on what you want to achieve.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?195585-Compression-12-6-1
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?195585-Compression-12-6-1
I wouldn't recommend it, it makes the cambelt difficult to adjust to correct tension if you go past about 10thou
BMW Z4
I got carried away and have decided to get the block rebored as number one and 3 bore have slight scuffs in them. The crank and shells look fine mind you. Can I put oversized rings on the standard pistons?
I have scrapped my idea of open verniers after finding this wedged near the timing belt under the cover LOL
This is why you dont put silicone anywhere near your engine when sealing covers etc, or if you do just a very fine smudge of the stuff.
Block ready to go to be cleaned and rebored, plus sump cleaned
Can someone tell me the torques for rod bolts and main bearing caps please?
Mark
I have scrapped my idea of open verniers after finding this wedged near the timing belt under the cover LOL
This is why you dont put silicone anywhere near your engine when sealing covers etc, or if you do just a very fine smudge of the stuff.
Block ready to go to be cleaned and rebored, plus sump cleaned
Can someone tell me the torques for rod bolts and main bearing caps please?
Mark
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Whilst that is technically feasible, it's not the done thing. You would find the engine to be very noisy from cold as well. If your reboring the block you need to go oversize pistons to suit. You could always go high comp and have them machined to get back to near standard compression ratio.
BMW Z4
Ok thanks guys.
If you go high comp pistons does that increase BHP on its own or do you have to do something else at the same time? Increase fuel flow or something? As I cant afford to go much higher otherwise I am fitting tons more ballast. I am already fitting cams to this rebuild.
I guess re bore to 83mm then with new pistons, rings, main bearings caps etc.
Anyone notice the big burn mark on my flywheel?
If you go high comp pistons does that increase BHP on its own or do you have to do something else at the same time? Increase fuel flow or something? As I cant afford to go much higher otherwise I am fitting tons more ballast. I am already fitting cams to this rebuild.
I guess re bore to 83mm then with new pistons, rings, main bearings caps etc.
Anyone notice the big burn mark on my flywheel?
182cup & 172 racecar
I did, but didn't really give a thought.
Just mapping required. You should see a bit of a power bump. What cams are you fitting?
Just had a look, that's pretty scorched, is the blueing on both sides?
BMW Z4
Yeh although it's not as blue on the face but a bit larger patch. What causes that?
182 trackday racer
I got carried away and have decided to get the block rebored as number one and 3 bore have slight scuffs in them. The crank and shells look fine mind you. Can I put oversized rings on the standard pistons?
I have scrapped my idea of open verniers after finding this wedged near the timing belt under the cover LOL
This is why you dont put silicone anywhere near your engine when sealing covers etc, or if you do just a very fine smudge of the stuff.
Can not see the first picture!
I had a small piece of sealant stuck in my pump as well. Was that white kind that seals the "bearing" closest to the flywheel. They seem to use to much sealant from the factory.
Mains are: 20Nm + 62 degrees -+4degrees
(Only use new bolts, if you use plastiguage torque up with clean old bolts first, if ok torque up with your new ones)
STANDARD rod bolts are: 25Nm + 110degrees +-6degrees
(If you use ARP its just Nm, see their website)
182 trackday racer
Only if you use plasti guage cause then you have to remove all the bolts and bearing caps again to check the play (how wide the smear is) If ok retighten with new bolts.
If you only check axial play you can tighten with new bolts right away, I do recommend plastiguage though.
182 trackday racer
Are you familiar with how to use plastigage?
http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
My project thread
http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43793&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=929
BMW Z4
Be nice if your thread was in English
Please explain what your achieving using plastiguage? As you have to torque it and then undo it to measure it but then next time you torque it will be different no? I have always only ever used an accurate torque gauge myself.It allows you to measure the play in the bearing - to make sure the clearance is correct i.e. that it was machined correctly.
BMW Z4
Well I have started to put it back together. Platiguage readings are in tolerance to the tight side which you would expect I guess. I have noticed though that two of the big end bearings have a couple of small dints in them, don't know how that happened as I cleaned the crank in my parts washer twice and then cleaned it with cloth. All the others are ok. Not fitted that rod yet.
I have also fitted an ARP crank stud kit. Do you bother with loctite on the nuts or just torque to 60 as ARP says?
Mark
I have also fitted an ARP crank stud kit. Do you bother with loctite on the nuts or just torque to 60 as ARP says?
Mark
BMW Z4
Ok cool. I did rod bolts to 42nm and mains to 60nm as per ARP instructions (with no thread lock on them just the ARP lube) I am getting new shells from Ktech for my dinted ones so will do that this Saturday along with the rest of the engine rebuild. Also I finally found my small oil leak too! The bottom timing belt ally cover had a bolt sheared on it next to the sump. It's all booked in now with Troy for dyno run in and map
BMW Z4
A big pallet of bits arrived and also my new gearbox (pics of that later)
So let's make a start as I have to ge this done ASAP as Cadwell is in 3 weeks now Ooerr.
A big pallet of parts
My nice new Helix paddle clutch
Ok let's get the block mounted to my engine stand and give it a damned good clean
Nice honed bores
My new little parts washer, to be honest I should have bought the bigger one
Cleaned the pistons and put the new rings on them
making sure to get the rings top the right way around
Pistons fitted into block
Showing the bottom of the rods
Crank in place with plastiguage in place ready for clamping up. I did the mains first and the big ends next
Nice tolerance on the mains, perfect to the tight side
Nice tolerance on the big ends also perfect to the tight side
ARP bottom stud kit in place ready for 60Nm of torque
Plenty of Renault Goo
More to follow this weekend, lots to do
mark.
So let's make a start as I have to ge this done ASAP as Cadwell is in 3 weeks now Ooerr.
A big pallet of parts
My nice new Helix paddle clutch
Ok let's get the block mounted to my engine stand and give it a damned good clean
Nice honed bores
My new little parts washer, to be honest I should have bought the bigger one
Cleaned the pistons and put the new rings on them
making sure to get the rings top the right way around
Pistons fitted into block
Showing the bottom of the rods
Crank in place with plastiguage in place ready for clamping up. I did the mains first and the big ends next
Nice tolerance on the mains, perfect to the tight side
Nice tolerance on the big ends also perfect to the tight side
ARP bottom stud kit in place ready for 60Nm of torque
Plenty of Renault Goo
More to follow this weekend, lots to do
mark.
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BMW Z4
Yes I know... Mistake further up..
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BMW Z4
So Ive got everything to rebuild my engine tomorrow. Have I f**k! Just noticed I don't have the studs and nuts for the f**king cat cams and verniers!! Well I do because cat in their wisdom have included one stud and I have one nut from my old cam but nothing for the other side. How thoughtful of them.
f**king Motorsport. I have to order everything 3 damned times because you either get the wrong f**king parts or their late or out of stock or they forget to send you a crucial part you need.
Rant over
PS
On one of these cams its got a wheel on it with cutouts that does nothing much that I can see. Any ideas? Pic to follow..
f**king Motorsport. I have to order everything 3 damned times because you either get the wrong f**king parts or their late or out of stock or they forget to send you a crucial part you need.
Rant over
PS
On one of these cams its got a wheel on it with cutouts that does nothing much that I can see. Any ideas? Pic to follow..
Crazy isn't it Mark Cat are shocking for it from my experience and also what I hear! Hope you get sorted
I guess the thing for the cam's is to help time them up because they are the non-vvt ones they dont have the ability to use the normal timing tools do they?
Cat are shocking for it from my experience and also what I hear! Hope you get sorted I guess the thing for the cam's is to help time them up because they are the non-vvt ones they dont have the ability to use the normal timing tools do they?
BMW Z4
Crazy isn't it Mark
I guess the thing for the cam's is to help time them up because they are the non-vvt ones they dont have the ability to use the normal timing tools do they?
I'm up the creek without a paddle chap, no time!
I shall clamp the cam cover up un timed and leave the pistons half way down the bores as it has to go to Troy on Monday at NMS. He will have to do the belt and time it up, plus get a stud and nut from Renault for the other side.Ohh that's not good mate No where to get the parts from tomorrow i'm guessing?! I look forward to seeing you and the car at Cadwell
No where to get the parts from tomorrow i'm guessing?! I look forward to seeing you and the car at Cadwell Here are the pics.
What is this?
Verniers with annoying missing stud
I would say thats for a cam phase sensor.
I'm not 100% sure, but would assume these cams can be used in the F4R 830 which, iirc has a cam sensor, easier for Cat to make cams that fit both, in your case it's not needed.
I'm going to be using a cam phase sensor on my car so this might be quite useful.
Mark have you checked the numbers on the cams are the one's you ordered? The number normally scored into the timing end of the cams. Cat sent us the inlet from a 421 and the exhaust from a 438! They really are useless so I wouldn't put it past them that they have sent you something they shouldn't have
BMW Z4
Engine is all done and car is now at NMS for mapping and running in on the dyno. It seems the cams are ok. They put that sensor on all of them now so they can use the same blanks. I removed it.
This build has been
Block Hone
Head skim (very slight)
Valves and seats re cut
Up rated valve springs
Cat Cams 421's
Adjustable Verniers
New piston rings
Crank grind and polish
New .25 mains and standard big end bearings
ARP bottom end stud kit
ARP rod bolts
ARP head stud kit
New oil pump chain and wheel
Keyed bottom pulley
New timing belt
Helix paddle clutch kit
New starter motor
New Power steering rack fitted
New steering rack bushes and clamps
New uprated (thicker) lower gearbox mount
New upper gearbox mount and bolt
Upper gearbox mount trimmed down
Drivers floor lowered by 15mm
Saxo power steering pump fitted
New gearbox with racing bearings and gripper diff fitted
Blue stuff pads all round
Pics to follow for remaining build. Cadwell testing on 21st so I hope it's ok on the dyno!!
PS
I finally found where my front left tyre had been rubbing under compression. In the centre of the forward wheel arch is a little dint, lump hammer to the rescue, no dint
This build has been
Block Hone
Head skim (very slight)
Valves and seats re cut
Up rated valve springs
Cat Cams 421's
Adjustable Verniers
New piston rings
Crank grind and polish
New .25 mains and standard big end bearings
ARP bottom end stud kit
ARP rod bolts
ARP head stud kit
New oil pump chain and wheel
Keyed bottom pulley
New timing belt
Helix paddle clutch kit
New starter motor
New Power steering rack fitted
New steering rack bushes and clamps
New uprated (thicker) lower gearbox mount
New upper gearbox mount and bolt
Upper gearbox mount trimmed down
Drivers floor lowered by 15mm
Saxo power steering pump fitted
New gearbox with racing bearings and gripper diff fitted
Blue stuff pads all round
Pics to follow for remaining build. Cadwell testing on 21st so I hope it's ok on the dyno!!
PS
I finally found where my front left tyre had been rubbing under compression. In the centre of the forward wheel arch is a little dint, lump hammer to the rescue, no dint
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Wow great list Mark! Glad they sent you the correct cam's
My tyre has worn the paint off the bulge in the same place so will copy your solution
My tyre has worn the paint off the bulge in the same place so will copy your solution
BMW Z4
Wow great list Mark! Glad they sent you the correct cam's
My tyre has worn the paint off the bulge in the same place so will copy your solution
Should be able to give the Peugeot a run for his money now
