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Machine polishing n00b.
- Thread starter Needster
- Start date
Barge
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Kestrel_DAS-6_Menz_Kit_2_1.html#aKDASMEN2
This?
Also trying to add the Cliosport discount code before checkout and it won't have it.
This?
Also trying to add the Cliosport discount code before checkout and it won't have it.
Megane R26
That's your best bet from what he does, but I reckon the Sonus pads are easier to learn with as they're a lot softer.
So:
- DAS6
- Menzerna 3.02
- Menzerna 203S
- Menzerna PO85RE
- Sonus SFX1 Pad
- Sonus SFX2 Pad
- Sonus SFX3 Pad
Send him a PM and see what he can do on that for you
It's worth getting some 4" spot pads too for tighter areas. SFX1/2 will do.
So:
- DAS6
- Menzerna 3.02
- Menzerna 203S
- Menzerna PO85RE
- Sonus SFX1 Pad
- Sonus SFX2 Pad
- Sonus SFX3 Pad
Send him a PM and see what he can do on that for you
It's worth getting some 4" spot pads too for tighter areas. SFX1/2 will do.
lol. this is where it starts my dear. then before long you will be building a shed for all your equip.
The menz pads are MORE than fine for the clio. You wont be dissapointed with:
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Kestrel_DAS-6_Menz_Kit_2_1.html
+
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/3.5_Backing_Plate_1.html
and 1 each of:
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Menzerna_135mm_Pads.html
and a roll or 2 of the blue:
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/3M_Automotive_Masking_Tape_1.html#a3M343425
The menz pads are MORE than fine for the clio. You wont be dissapointed with:
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Kestrel_DAS-6_Menz_Kit_2_1.html
+
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/3.5_Backing_Plate_1.html
and 1 each of:
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Menzerna_135mm_Pads.html
and a roll or 2 of the blue:
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/3M_Automotive_Masking_Tape_1.html#a3M343425
Megane R26
Megane R26
Don't forget your discount code! 7.5% off
I don't think you need all 3 4" pads - I NEVER use spot finishing pads. Get the 75mm backing plate for smaller pads, not the bigger one else the 80mm pads will be smaller than the plate
Megane R26
The Boosh!
ClioSport Admin
Elise, Duster
Haha, I am the same. Uni work due in on Monday, yet I am still going to spend a full day on the car :S - Fail!
Barge
Further ahead with my dissertation than I thought I would be at this point, so as the weather is set to be nice this weekend I thought I'd have a crack at machine polishing the swirlbus. The DAS been sat here doing nothing since it arrived a few weeks back. Anyway, I've read through the info Boosh linked to: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859 but I found its not easy to understand in places - I need laymans terms! LOL. I just want some further clarification over everything I'm going to do - just to make sure I'm doing it right.
Wash
Clay (I've got some bars and Born Slippy which I've had ages but had no need to use on the R27)
Wash again/rinse (into garage)
Dry
Mask up plastics, etc.
From here on is the need for guidance... I bought Kestral DAS-6 Menzerna kit 2 and some other bits (all together the polisher, 5" backing plate, power finish 3.02, power finish 203S, Final finish, 5" compound pad, polishing pad and finishing pad, 75mm backing plate and a 80mm polishing and compound pads, and some 3M tape). Sweet.
In laymans terms can someone guide me through what to use when (re the Menz products and pads). I guess I should be doing about 10-15 passes using power finish (go in with 3.02 first?) on the compound pad(?)... But how will I know when it is ok to stop, will the product disappear, etc.? And when I've done the whole car should I rub residue off - will there even be any residue?
I guess at this point it's time to go in with the final finish? Same questions really... how will I know when it's cooked as it were.
I'm guessing after this I'd use my Lime Prime then apply the Dodo Wax. I've also got some AG Ultra Deep Shine kicking about and EGP (I think, without hawking down two flights of stairs to look.)
Any recommendations on a process for me to go through so I can f**k the swirls off good and proper? Muchos gracias!
Wash
Clay (I've got some bars and Born Slippy which I've had ages but had no need to use on the R27)
Wash again/rinse (into garage)
Dry
Mask up plastics, etc.
From here on is the need for guidance... I bought Kestral DAS-6 Menzerna kit 2 and some other bits (all together the polisher, 5" backing plate, power finish 3.02, power finish 203S, Final finish, 5" compound pad, polishing pad and finishing pad, 75mm backing plate and a 80mm polishing and compound pads, and some 3M tape). Sweet.
In laymans terms can someone guide me through what to use when (re the Menz products and pads). I guess I should be doing about 10-15 passes using power finish (go in with 3.02 first?) on the compound pad(?)... But how will I know when it is ok to stop, will the product disappear, etc.? And when I've done the whole car should I rub residue off - will there even be any residue?
I guess at this point it's time to go in with the final finish? Same questions really... how will I know when it's cooked as it were.
I'm guessing after this I'd use my Lime Prime then apply the Dodo Wax. I've also got some AG Ultra Deep Shine kicking about and EGP (I think, without hawking down two flights of stairs to look.
)Any recommendations on a process for me to go through so I can f**k the swirls off good and proper? Muchos gracias!
needy, read this. srsly
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859
if you have any questions after, let me know.
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859
if you have any questions after, let me know.
Barge
Ok re-read it. I've even got the PDF printed out. Understand the parts regarding knowing when it's worked, what I don't understand is the compound talk... It's straight over my head. Effectively, what I want to know is which polish, which pad, when in relation to what I bought. Perhaps I'm just being thick.
Last edited:
The pads:
White = Cutting. Use this for heavy swirl removal.
Orange = Medium Cut/Slight Polish
Yellow = Polish.
Polishes:
Power Finish - PO85RD3.02 = the most aggressive youve got.
Power Finish - PO203s = a medium compound (good enough if you wanted to get away with 1 hit)
Final Finish - PO85RE5 - high gloss polish
1 pass = moving the polisher from left to right
1 hit = 8-15 passes
To start with you need to see how much work your paint requires.
If it is very swirly then a light gloss compound isnt guna cut it. If you look after the car and there are just very light swirls that you can only see in the right light then a medium compound is adequate.
Start off with the PO203s (might be worth writing on the bottom of the bottles if your unsure which is which) on an orange pad.
This can be described as a 1 hit process. The polish has enough cut to get rid of the swirls, but is glossy enough to not need more work.
(If after 1 hit you have not removed enough of the swirls, you need to move onto a more aggressive pad (white). If after another hit the swirls are still there then you need to move onto a more abrasive polish. I very much doubt this will be required on yours. The idea is you start with a less aggressive combination and work up if your not getting the desired results)
If after 1 hit you have removed the swirls, move on and do the whole car (remember to work in manageable sized areas 15-18sqr inches. less if your working in the sun).
Once you have finished this process you should be swirl free.
Are you happy with the finish, the shine, etc:
Yes - Stop and wax the car
No - move onto a finishing pad (yellow, the softest one to touch) and carry out the same technique as before, but with your gloss polish, the
PO85RE5 (final finish). This is a very high gloss, very low cut polish, so is basically buffing the surface and making it shiny.
After this you will be ready to wax.
NOTES:
-Ideally you need to see how thick your paint is. If you have standard from factory paint you will be fine to machine polish.
-You cant really do alot of damage with a DA, but test the panel with your hand to see how hot they are getting after a hit. (youll soon get the hand of it)
-dont rush. you will need a good 4 hours to machine polish the car. atleast. if you wanna do the whole car with both types of pad, youll be looking at more like 6-8 hours.
-use the larger pads for large flat areas, and the small spot pads for bumpers etc.
-apply about 2-3 pea size blobs to the pad (spread out) and follow the technique shown in the guide, dab the polish on the area your working on, then work it in so you have an even coverage on about speed 2. dont push the machine in, just move it around. With the polisher touching the bodywork, move from 2-5 and youll be fine. try and srart and stop the machine when its touching the bodywork to stop product splatting everywhere.
-the polish is finished when it is clear. if you want to after 1 hit, instead of applying more product for the second hit, spray a light spray of water over the pad. this will cool the polish and make it haze a little on the second hit. make the second hit 5-10 passes tho, not 8-15.
-if you have followed as above, i wouldnt worry about lime prime. thats more of a filler/cleanser, so just move straight onto wax.
Finishing the Car (LSP - last stage protection)
You can either Wax or Seal. Dont do both (its a waste of time)
Wax (i.e. your dodo) will bead lovely, and last. wax gives a better look, slightly less lifespan.
Seal (i.e. EGP) wont bead quite as well, but will last longer (if you look after it).
So decide, do you want it to look better, or last longer.
I personally wax cuz the car is looked after. (Next time you come to wash, finish off the process, after drying the car, with a detailing spray or dodo red mist etc. this brings back the shine and adds a tad of protection).
MORE NOTES:
-If you are taping up the plastics when polishing, leave this on until you finish waxing. it will prevent you getting residue on the plastics.
-You will get a little dusting with cutting compounds, but shouldn't with the finishing types.
-once youve finished waxing, remove the tape and finish the plastics etc.
Have fun!
White = Cutting. Use this for heavy swirl removal.
Orange = Medium Cut/Slight Polish
Yellow = Polish.
Polishes:
Power Finish - PO85RD3.02 = the most aggressive youve got.
Power Finish - PO203s = a medium compound (good enough if you wanted to get away with 1 hit)
Final Finish - PO85RE5 - high gloss polish
1 pass = moving the polisher from left to right
1 hit = 8-15 passes
To start with you need to see how much work your paint requires.
If it is very swirly then a light gloss compound isnt guna cut it. If you look after the car and there are just very light swirls that you can only see in the right light then a medium compound is adequate.
Start off with the PO203s (might be worth writing on the bottom of the bottles if your unsure which is which) on an orange pad.
This can be described as a 1 hit process. The polish has enough cut to get rid of the swirls, but is glossy enough to not need more work.
(If after 1 hit you have not removed enough of the swirls, you need to move onto a more aggressive pad (white). If after another hit the swirls are still there then you need to move onto a more abrasive polish. I very much doubt this will be required on yours. The idea is you start with a less aggressive combination and work up if your not getting the desired results)
If after 1 hit you have removed the swirls, move on and do the whole car (remember to work in manageable sized areas 15-18sqr inches. less if your working in the sun).
Once you have finished this process you should be swirl free.
Are you happy with the finish, the shine, etc:
Yes - Stop and wax the car
No - move onto a finishing pad (yellow, the softest one to touch) and carry out the same technique as before, but with your gloss polish, the
PO85RE5 (final finish). This is a very high gloss, very low cut polish, so is basically buffing the surface and making it shiny.
After this you will be ready to wax.
NOTES:
-Ideally you need to see how thick your paint is. If you have standard from factory paint you will be fine to machine polish.
-You cant really do alot of damage with a DA, but test the panel with your hand to see how hot they are getting after a hit. (youll soon get the hand of it)
-dont rush. you will need a good 4 hours to machine polish the car. atleast. if you wanna do the whole car with both types of pad, youll be looking at more like 6-8 hours.
-use the larger pads for large flat areas, and the small spot pads for bumpers etc.
-apply about 2-3 pea size blobs to the pad (spread out) and follow the technique shown in the guide, dab the polish on the area your working on, then work it in so you have an even coverage on about speed 2. dont push the machine in, just move it around. With the polisher touching the bodywork, move from 2-5 and youll be fine. try and srart and stop the machine when its touching the bodywork to stop product splatting everywhere.
-the polish is finished when it is clear. if you want to after 1 hit, instead of applying more product for the second hit, spray a light spray of water over the pad. this will cool the polish and make it haze a little on the second hit. make the second hit 5-10 passes tho, not 8-15.
-if you have followed as above, i wouldnt worry about lime prime. thats more of a filler/cleanser, so just move straight onto wax.
Finishing the Car (LSP - last stage protection)
You can either Wax or Seal. Dont do both (its a waste of time)
Wax (i.e. your dodo) will bead lovely, and last. wax gives a better look, slightly less lifespan.
Seal (i.e. EGP) wont bead quite as well, but will last longer (if you look after it).
So decide, do you want it to look better, or last longer.
I personally wax cuz the car is looked after. (Next time you come to wash, finish off the process, after drying the car, with a detailing spray or dodo red mist etc. this brings back the shine and adds a tad of protection).
MORE NOTES:
-If you are taping up the plastics when polishing, leave this on until you finish waxing. it will prevent you getting residue on the plastics.
-You will get a little dusting with cutting compounds, but shouldn't with the finishing types.
-once youve finished waxing, remove the tape and finish the plastics etc.
Have fun!
The Boosh!
ClioSport Admin
Elise, Duster
Yeh manI think a machine polisher is one of the next big purchases ill be getting for my car!
Hopefully The Boosh can give me some tips when he details my car
Good luck needy. The main skill you need with doing it is patience/persistance. I don't have much of either which is why I try and keep the cars I do to a minimum lol
Black Gold Trophy
^ I've found this a lot with black gold in particular, seems to be what is often described as 'sticky paint', marks very easily but is difficult to cut
