ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

MK1 2.0 16v Turbo



  Renault Clio 16v
Back in June of 07 :eek: my bottom end decided to throw a shell and knock its tits off. I kept driving till she seized as I had a court case pending due to a motor offence ( those of you who know about it! :dapprove: )
Anyway, once it was properly fookered i took it to a barn my mate had let me use to store it and keep it safe. The months passed on by and i thought to myself sod it, I'm going to giv my beloved naples a bit of help with a blower AKA a turbo ;) .
It looked like this for a while, an abandoned, battered Clio :(
IMAGE_352.jpg

During its time there i did practically bugger all due to a serious lack of funds! But, I had managed to scrape pennies together for boost pipework and and FMIC to which i fitted to the Valver in this fashion :D

IMAGE_01.jpg

IMAGE002.jpg

IMAGE_00.jpg

Picture331.jpg

18821606a5765951650l.jpg

Again more months passed with not alot going on untill November when I went away for 15 weeks working in Hamburg, Germany to earn some monies.
Whilst away in January, I browsing ebay I spotted an advert for a turbo ready 2.0 williams lump which I had to have and now at this point I could afford! Also much to my disbelief a stainless T3 flanged manifold turned up which i also coulnt resist :eek:
During this time I also bought;
IW - 044 325cc injectors,
High boost turbo eprom,
Ph1 ecu,
OMP paddle clutch,
Ph1 172 Gearbox and mount/battery tray,
Power boost valve,
Uprated fuel pump,
PTFE inlet and manifold gaskets,
T3 turbo,
T3 oil feed and drain,
Yellow silicon ignition leads,
Full set of yellow Samco hoses,
Hi-Spec 4 pots and 300mm discs,
16'' OZ supperleggera's,
and a few other bits and bobs!!
Mid April my engine finally turned up from BBPT :D It was like 5 birthdays rolled into one
P220408_125301.jpg

P220408_1253.jpg

Here's the spec
ENGINE BLOCK
The Engine block is put through the following process:-
- De-stressed and chemically cleaned to remove carbon and then acid dipped to remove scaly corrosion deposits from water ways.
- Re-bored with main caps fitted to suit piston size.
- Minimal surface reface for blueprinting
- All Headbolt and Main bolt threads are re-cut and cleaned
- Engine block is painted externally with a suitable black paint to enhance appearance.
- Sump Painted
- Turbo oil drain fitting free of charge (on request)

Once the above is done it is ready for the bottom end rebuild of which the following parts are used:-
- Set of 4 Wossner Forged Pistons Low comp. (Turbo use) supplied with Moly coated skirts and Japanese ring set.
- Set of 4 Wossner Forged Steel Con – Rods, supplied with ARP bolts.
- Balanced Knivedged crankshaft. Inc re-ground bearing journals if required.
- Full bottom end balance
- Oil pump refurbishment.
- Bottom end Gasket / Seal kit
- Crankshaft Main Bearings
- Crankshaft Big End bearings
- Crankshaft Thrust washers
- Water pump
- Water pump outlet pipe (Usually corroded on these engines)
CYLINDER HEAD
The Cylinder Head then goes through the following process:-
- Chemically cleaned to remove carbon deposits
- Minimal surface re-face for blueprinting
- Pressure tested before assembly.
Once this is done the cylinder head is subject to our Re-build service and assembled using the Following Parts:-
- Performance Camshafts to suit Turbo
- Vernier Camshaft Pullies
- Cambelt and tensioners
- Cam followers
- Uprated headgasket set inc. bolts
- Set of 16 Valve stem seals
- Various cam seals and gaskets
- Spark plugs to suit

Marvellous :evil:
First thing i did was bolt the manifold i won on ebay on..
P230408_165001.jpg

And then the turbo along with my yellow cam cover..
P230408_1932.jpg


Took my spare inlet manifold for sand blasting, came out like new, and gave it some vigirous cleaning and de-coking to get rid of any trace of sand inside it. Once that was done i bolted it on with the PTFE gaskets i purchased from hill_power_clio along with the throttle body
P010508_1323.jpg

P010508_1659.jpg

P030508_202001.jpg

Although it has to come back off because I found a sensor right under the inlet that's impossible to get off with the manifold on :rolleyes: and i've had a change of heart with what to do with it.


Got the old engine oot and stripped the loom, ancilaries, gear and flywheel. During the lift it kept getting jammed and was starting to get on my nerves so with a bit of not so gentle persuasion and shouting :eek: it came out. I'll give the bay a cleanup at some point.
P010508_1633.jpg

During the strip down i noticed i had damaged the idle pulley with my brute man strength :clown:
P020508_160701.jpg

So this means more delays untill i can source another and replace it. :(
Once i got all the bracketry i tried pressure washing the parts clean but this didn't satisfy me so, along with the inlet manifold, theyre going for sand blasting and having a silver powder coat to help cleaning. This was said to me by ARJ256 and i decided to take his advice as it was a good idea.
So all these goodies + the inlet manifold are going to be powder coated
P020508_190701.jpg

Next i bolted the fly wheel on, keeping the crank still using a chuck key in the hole on the side of the block an then on with my OMP paddle clutch and pressure plate with a clutch alignment tool. Hopefully this clutch will last a good 20 k on this engine :clown:
P010508_1804.jpg

P010508_1824.jpg

This picture shows the differences between the OMP clutch and an OEM Valeo clutch
P010508_1812.jpg

Then it was on with the gear box and suprisingly it just fell on! Everytime i've done the box before its taken a good half hour of wiggling to get the box on but not this time thankfully! This Box Is MK2 Ph1 172 JC5 gearbox.
P010508_1911.jpg

P010508_1912.jpg

P010508_1923.jpg

Once that was i i went to fit the valvers recently replaced starter to find.......... IT DIDN'T BLOODY FIT :rolleyes: at least i now know why they dont fit the F7R, its because of the strentghening veins on the rear of the block :roll: :oops: No pics of that cos i was that fooked off i gave up and went home :lol:
Next day i thought i'd have a look the oil feed and return for the turbo. i modded the starter heatsheild the miss the oil return and took a trip to my local Pirtek http://www.pirtek.co.uk/ and had them shorten my braided oil feed line and make a T-peice for the feed and oil pressure sender to bolt to.
P010508_1731.jpg

P010508_165301.jpg

P010508_163501.jpg

more updates when i can remember what i did :p
 
  e60 M5 -172- dciheid
cant beat turbo's clios, hopefully not too many problems will occur, but somehow I doubt it will be an easy clean straight forward job!!
 

Coby.

ClioSport Club Member
  XC60-R.......V40-R
Seems like it's going to be a very very rapido machine
 

Ali

  V6, Trackhawk, GTS
Good work...I'd be pissed off if i was your neighbour tho!...What a mess outside.
 

Waitey

ClioSport Club Member
  Alpina D3, AC Cobra
I don't like the look of that new clutch.

Ditch those 325cc inj's. 440cc + ftw!
 
  Renault Clio 16v
Not had any money for a while and still waiting for parts from powder coaters, so i thought i'd have a bash at my sideskirts. But dont worry theyre Gen Renault skirts not some chavved affair.
As many of you know, when it comes to RSi skirts theyre too long for the 16v shell.
It's not much but enough!
P100508_1400.jpg

I cut them down, used some upvc facia super glue with its aerosol activator to get it stuck on in position
100_2947.jpg

100_2949.jpg

100_2950.jpg

It's allmost good enough to leave, damn I'm good just a shame they're scratched to hell :(

Anyway, before my head gets too big lol, I put some fibre glass on the rear to give it some real strength even the the glue is strong it did break of too easily for my liking.
100_2952.jpg

Once that had dried on both skirts I fillered and sanded down the join i had made to make it nice and smooth :) After that a quick coat of red plastic primer to check for any parts where the filler sank.. Guess what, it was perfect :D then i rubbed down the entire skirt removing and guages and scratches in the paint ready for fresh stuff.
100_2953.jpg

100_2951.jpg

100_2955.jpg

100_2954.jpg

Once that was done i gave it a trial fit after removing the rubber around the edge so it still has the OE look when painted.
100_2956.jpg

100_2957.jpg

Next on the list...
Interior Strippage
 
  Renault Clio 16v
Finnished my skirts off today, went all good untill i laquered them. A bit patchy. Anyway, a few pics.
P120508_1740.jpg

P140508_1757.jpg

P140508_1817.jpg

Going to give them a polish or something to see if it evens it out bit.
Got my bits and manifold back from the powder coaters also and bolted em on.
P130508_2019.jpg

P130508_2019.jpg

P130508_2020.jpg

P130508_2031.jpg

Was getting dark now, so finished up with bolting on the pas removal pulley
A rare part :D
P130508_210801.jpg

P130508_2108.jpg

Today i bolted the box mount on.
P140508_1447.jpg

Quick pic showing how it is at the moment.
P140508_144701.jpg

And some pics comparing standard manifold to the turbo'd one. Not a great deal i dont think
P140508_1449.jpg

P140508_144901.jpg

Updates soon.
 
  Renault Clio 16v
Waiting on fogger/crossfire jets before i bolt the inlet on due to them needing holes tro be drilled and tapped
 

Waitey

ClioSport Club Member
  Alpina D3, AC Cobra
I don't like the look of that new clutch.

Ditch those 325cc inj's. 440cc + ftw!


whats up with the clutch?


injetcor upgrades will ome when i get a new turbo.

2 Points

1) I don't think it'll ever be able to cope with the torque you will produce

2) Its 4 puck clutch that means it'll be very on/off in the engagement. Makes setting off a ball ache and it will kill your already weak 172 box and driveshafts.
 
  Renault Clio 16v
whats up with the clutch?


injetcor upgrades will ome when i get a new turbo.

2 Points

1) I don't think it'll ever be able to cope with the torque you will produce

2) Its 4 puck clutch that means it'll be very on/off in the engagement. Makes setting off a ball ache and it will kill your already weak 172 box and driveshafts.



fair call. any recomendations for a better clutch?
 

Waitey

ClioSport Club Member
  Alpina D3, AC Cobra
2 Points

1) I don't think it'll ever be able to cope with the torque you will produce

2) Its 4 puck clutch that means it'll be very on/off in the engagement. Makes setting off a ball ache and it will kill your already weak 172 box and driveshafts.



fair call. any recomendations for a better clutch?

Give Helix clutches a call. Tell them what torque you'll expect to be running then tell them you want a kevlar disk.

I've got a custom Helix organic/kevlar clutch. It drives and engages just like a normal clutch except it'll handle 260lb/ft.

It is a bit costly though. I think the final bill for mine was £310.

Whereas most 'uprated' clutches on ebay will be £100ish.
 
  Renault Clio 16v
i honestly dont know but the arch cut outs are larger on a 16v. you can see it when some one puts ph2 or turbines on a lesser model.
 


Top