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MK1 Clio Hybrid



Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
The car only has the 172 ECU, nothing else. But I want to bin everything. No heaters, no electric windows, no interior lights...

I want the bare minimum put back in. But I want a ph1 172 Clock set in there.

clio-girl pointed out that I have a 172 engine, 172 ecu and 172 clocks, why not just get hold of a 172 loom and fit that. But then I need to get the fuel pump wires etc into the 172 loom...

I'm so confused.
 
  53 Clio's & counting
Well wanting to bin all that stuff at least makes it easier for you, Id do that - get a Ph1 172 loom (In fact I think I have one spare if you wanted it?) then it's just the case of finding out what does what - which should be fairly easy with the help of this place.

You could probably use the 172 loom for the fuel pump?
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
I've got one down the unit mate.

I'll worry about it after this week. Got too much on to even think about it.
 
  53 Clio's & counting
Il help if I can be of any use mate, I think start by laying out the loom and seeing what we have left over and work from there
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
I think you're probably right.

Once that blue 182's gone.... ! ..... I can get the valver in the unit and i'll make some progress hopefully.
 
  53 Clio's & counting
Flol :eek: will text you tomorrow x


As said, when you're going to work on it let me know, and il (try to) help
 
We just got the two connectors for the 172 clocks cut off a 172 loom. Then used the haynes manual to find which pin does what on the valver clock plugs. Then cut each wire that was needed and soldered onto the 172 connectors one by one. Its really that simple... I wrote a simple diagram/table for it, did I not send it over? It shows what valver wires connect to the 172 clock connections.
 
172 Ph1 engine loom with a valver connector spliced on (for engine), following the guide I made..

Interior was a cut down valver loom with 172 clock connectors spliced on following the other clocks guide..

ECU was unlocked/emulated so it does not need key/loom/UCH/MTU etc
 
  53 Clio's & counting
Brilliant, Dan il have a good read of Jord's guide (guessing it's in the guide section? lol) and see what we can do
 
I dont think it is... PM me your e-mail address and I will reply with them both attached in the morning :)
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
We just got the two connectors for the 172 clocks cut off a 172 loom. Then used the haynes manual to find which pin does what on the valver clock plugs. Then cut each wire that was needed and soldered onto the 172 connectors one by one. Its really that simple... I wrote a simple diagram/table for it, did I not send it over? It shows what valver wires connect to the 172 clock connections.

You did jord. I've still got it, somewhere...

But I have no valver wiring at all now.

I have a bare shell, with a 172 engine and loom, plugged into a 172 ECU. I have 172 clocks but nothing else is valver.

Or are you talking about the lights/fuel pump etc?

I have no valver dash loom.
 
  williams and trophy
Well i've had 2 williams, I've had 3 Valvers and I've now got my 172'd valver and I can safely say (From a very short test run) that the 172'd car is by far the fastest. Not even close.


gotta agree with stromba on this 1 im afraid.

in similar spec, i.e 260 ish deg cams etc. the f7r with outperform the f4r every day of the week.
my williams es are a far better drive, enginewise, than my trophy. low down torque where you want it. the f4r needs it nads ringing to get the best out of it. the f7 does more from low down.

not driven a valver with f4 in, but i hear they break.......a hell of a lot......with the same abuse an f7 would laugh at and take in its stride
 
  Punto/Clio GTT
how much hassle is fitting a willy lump or megane lump to say an RT? would it just be plug n play with the willy/meg loom pretty much?

is there any real power difference in a meg n willy engine?
 

16v_paddy

ClioSport Club Member
  Valvers & 172 Cup
how much hassle is fitting a willy lump or megane lump to say an RT? would it just be plug n play with the willy/meg loom pretty much?

is there any real power difference in a meg n willy engine?

The hassle is having the right looms to match the phase of the car, no real power difference worth mentioning between the meg & willy engine, the meggy F7R was just revised a little bit to move with the times, using coils instead of dizzy, smaller inlet ports with bigger valves etc
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
gotta agree with stromba on this 1 im afraid.

in similar spec, i.e 260 ish deg cams etc. the f7r with outperform the f4r every day of the week.
my williams es are a far better drive, enginewise, than my trophy. low down torque where you want it. the f4r needs it nads ringing to get the best out of it. the f7 does more from low down.

not driven a valver with f4 in, but i hear they break.......a hell of a lot......with the same abuse an f7 would laugh at and take in its stride

Sounds like someone has been feeding you nonsense then TBH.

The crank / rods / pistons /valves from the F4R and F7R are all of the same mediocre quality, the F4R has the potential for the dephaser solenoid to pack up as an extra point of failure (piece of cake to replace though) but other than that there really isnt any reliability difference between the two, they are both just cheap mass produced engines with moderate power outputs and "ok" quality parts, nothing terrible or great about either of them.

As you mention with regards to power outputs, if you modify the F7R its easy to better the power output of a standard F4R, but you've then had to put cams in one engine and not in the other, so its not really a relevant comparison.

For people wanting to just fit an engine without doing anything like fitting cams in the first place, the bottom line is that the F4R will perform better.
 
  williams and trophy
Hmmm the f4 powered valvers are renowned for being unreliable.

As I said if you read my post properly. The 2 engines, when in comparable state of tune I.e. 260 deg cams in each. The f7 will outperform the f4 every day of the week, and will be a nicer drove to boot.

I think most people would happily fit a set of cams rather than rewire and source everything needed to do the conversion. So if people wanted an easy solution, they'd fit an f7r and cam it if need be. Or leave as is and still get a decent gain over the f7p . So the ease of just dropping an engine in ......and then having to rewire the car to run it is nonsense when the f7r is a straight forward engine drop.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Hmmm the f4 powered valvers are renowned for being unreliable.

The engines arent unreliable, if people want to fit one badly into another car and then create a load of wiring problems where they havent done it properly thats a different kettle of fish altogether, and must be what you are referring to, but its no good making comments based on a couple of bad conversions you have same, the same applies to a botched F7r conversion too for that matter.



As I said if you read my post properly. The 2 engines, when in comparable state of tune I.e. 260 deg cams in each. The f7 will outperform the f4 every day of the week, and will be a nicer drove to boot.

Thats just not the case at all, Ive driven and mapped various versions of both engines in various states of tune, and given that they have the SAME bore/stroke they are unsurprisingly similar given the same set of cams, the standard inlet on the F4R is a bit more peaky than the one on the F7R, but even on that they still make more than enough torque to be pleasant to drive at low rpm, people here are talking about track and fast road cars anyway though, so what it does sub 3K etc is pretty irrelevant IMHO.
Ive mapped recently an F4R and an F7R on very similar cams and on very similar modified inlets, and the F4R actually makes about 10lbft or so more torque for the entire rev range though, so again it would appear your information is incorrect based on my own recent firsthand experience of both.
I think possibly you are comparing a decatted williams on an aftermarket exhaust with 260 cams and a remap, against a standard F4R as thats the only way I can think that what you are saying is true, and thats obviously a nonsense in the case of a F4R into a valver as no one who does so then fits the standard exhaust and cat etc, so invariably they make a bit more power than the standard 172 did that they came from, especially if mapped to suit (which is far more trivial than on the valver ecu)


I think most people would happily fit a set of cams rather than rewire and source everything needed to do the conversion. So if people wanted an easy solution, they'd fit an f7r and cam it if need be. Or leave as is and still get a decent gain over the f7p . So the ease of just dropping an engine in ......and then having to rewire the car to run it is nonsense when the f7r is a straight forward engine drop.

Yes the williams F7R is a simpler fit wiring wise, no doubt about that, although personally I'd always run both on aftermarket anyway as Im not a big fan of either of the standard ECU's.

Thing is though, if you are talking megane F7R rather than williams (like a lot of peopel in this thread are) then its not simpler at all as unless you start putting a valver head on it (then you need to get it mapped which is a bit of a ballache with the antique ecu on the valver) then you are into the same sort of problems with wiring as the megane ecu doesnt fit nicely into a mk1 at all, you have immobiliser problems and the wiring differences for the coilpack etc to deal with.
 
The downfall was always the decoded ECU. Wiring is essentially plug and play (10 wires if that), just the piggy-back emulators were cheap and always broke. Its not possible to just flash a Sirius32 ECU to remove its immobiliser features, the immo signal has to be emulated. Correct they do like to be revved for the power, which didn't matter at all as it was a track-only car so always 4k+ rpm... took the stick of 7800rpm for 3 years.

If it had been run on an aftermarket ECU from the word go it would have never not worked, the engine always ran perfect and made 172/165 @ TDF. It did have a brand new engine due to the block cracking in the freezing temp's of winter, but if it had been kept inside it would have never been an issue
 
  williams and trophy
The engines arent unreliable, if people want to fit one badly into another car and then create a load of wiring problems where they havent done it properly thats a different kettle of fish altogether, and must be what you are referring to, but its no good making comments based on a couple of bad conversions you have same, the same applies to a botched F7r conversion too for that matter.

yes any conversion can be bodged. but any simpletone can swap an engine. the ecu doesnt even need to be changed for the f7p/r conversion to see a gain in power.




Thats just not the case at all, Ive driven and mapped various versions of both engines in various states of tune, and given that they have the SAME bore/stroke they are unsurprisingly similar given the same set of cams, the standard inlet on the F4R is a bit more peaky than the one on the F7R, but even on that they still make more than enough torque to be pleasant to drive at low rpm, people here are talking about track and fast road cars anyway though, so what it does sub 3K etc is pretty irrelevant IMHO.
Ive mapped recently an F4R and an F7R on very similar cams and on very similar modified inlets, and the F4R actually makes about 10lbft or so more torque for the entire rev range though, so again it would appear your information is incorrect based on my own recent firsthand experience of both.
I think possibly you are comparing a decatted williams on an aftermarket exhaust with 260 cams and a remap, against a standard F4R as thats the only way I can think that what you are saying is true, and thats obviously a nonsense in the case of a F4R into a valver as no one who does so then fits the standard exhaust and cat etc, so invariably they make a bit more power than the standard 172 did that they came from, especially if mapped to suit (which is far more trivial than on the valver ecu)

so because they have the same bore/stroke, the driving characteristics are very similar?? i think not.....in fact i fukkin know not. im comparing a f4r standard cam, around the 260 mark iirc. to a f7r fitted with 260ish cams, both with decat and cat back. the driving characteristics are completely diff. you arent allowing for the difference in head porting etc. the btm end isnt the whole of the engine you know.



Yes the williams F7R is a simpler fit wiring wise, no doubt about that, although personally I'd always run both on aftermarket anyway as Im not a big fan of either of the standard ECU's.

Thing is though, if you are talking megane F7R rather than williams (like a lot of peopel in this thread are) then its not simpler at all as unless you start putting a valver head on it (then you need to get it mapped which is a bit of a ballache with the antique ecu on the valver) then you are into the same sort of problems with wiring as the megane ecu doesnt fit nicely into a mk1 at all, you have immobiliser problems and the wiring differences for the coilpack etc to deal with.



yes the meg is a little diff. to the williams f7r. and likewise the spider is diff to both. its simple enough to swap a head over either way. and as for the ecu lol.anyone decent can get good gains from the std ecu. it doesnt have to be standalone to get good gains. thats maybe your preference as you can map standalone but little else properly?? but then your into the realms of which standalone, the omex which any mupet can map, or ktecs effort which can be locked etc. i believe??? a good mapper will get good gains from all of the above, no matter whose ecu they are using. thats what they do. which is beyond me so i take it to a man who can.


so to sum up. you are still wrong in saying that an f4 conversion is easier and better than a similar specced f7r conversion.
 

16v_paddy

ClioSport Club Member
  Valvers & 172 Cup
The crank / rods / pistons /valves from the F4R and F7R are all of the same mediocre quality,

Not quite correct, they used 2 piece valves that are friction welded together in the F4R's & they're the weak point whenever the engines are being ragged about properly hard & I don't know of any F7's that have dropped a valve
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
The only time my F4r has failed was because of my lack of competence and knowledge. Nothing to do with the engine or hardware.

There are 100's of F4r'd cars on here, maybe even 000's that have run well into the 100,000 mile mark and are going stronger than ever. To say its unreliable is complete horse s**t. I've owned plenty of mk1's and plenty of mk2's Fact is, mk2 is more reliable. You'd be a complete Merrick to disagree with that tbh.

A conversion is only as good as the bloke that converted it. FACT.
 
  DON'T SEND ME PM'S!!
The only time my F4r has failed was because of my lack of competence and knowledge. Nothing to do with the engine or hardware.

There are 100's of F4r'd cars on here, maybe even 000's that have run well into the 100,000 mile mark and are going stronger than ever. To say its unreliable is complete horse s**t. I've owned plenty of mk1's and plenty of mk2's Fact is, mk2 is more reliable. You'd be a complete Merrick to disagree with that tbh.

A conversion is only as good as the bloke that converted it. FACT.

I agree completely. Mk2's are much better built than mk1s to start with, and they're far better thought out from a maintenance point of view.

While the F4R and F7R are both lovely when working properly, the F4R although different and awkward to someone new to it is actually a brilliant engine to do pretty much anything to, where the F7R will fight you all the way.

I love my Mk1s, but claiming they're better or more reliable is nothing more than sticking your fingers in your ears and shouting LALALALALALALA
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
yes any conversion can be bodged. but any simpletone can swap an engine. the ecu doesnt even need to be changed for the f7p/r conversion to see a gain in power.

Will be horribly lean if you do that, not a good idea at all.




so because they have the same bore/stroke, the driving characteristics are very similar??
Because they have the same bore/stroke ratio and also the same rod ratio, it does indeed make them similar as piston speed is idential between the two engines, and that effects greatly where in the rev range power will end up, of course its not the b-all and end-all but it does mean that you are down to the combustion chamber shape and the ports being the only significant differences internally. So they arent going to drive night and day different on the same cams given similar external components for example (ie both on bodies with similar exhausts etc)


i think not.....in fact i fukkin know not. im comparing a f4r standard cam, around the 260 mark iirc. to a f7r fitted with 260ish cams, both with decat and cat back. the driving characteristics are completely diff. you arent allowing for the difference in head porting etc. the btm end isnt the whole of the engine you know.
I love the way you are just quoting duration of a cam and not even considering the valve acceleration rates or the lift, lol.
The thing that makes the F4R a little worse at the bottom end than the F7R (and there really isnt much in it anyway, we're only talking a dozen lbft anywhere realistically) is not the ports like you are saying, that does have an effect but far more of it is down to the standard inlet manifold, not anything internal to the engine.
Fit an RS2 and you can have a 150lbft of torque for the entire rev range from the F4R with no other changes, so it shows its nothing internal to the engine that gives them their unpleasant standard torque curve shape.







yes the meg is a little diff. to the williams f7r. and likewise the spider is diff to both. its simple enough to swap a head over either way. and as for the ecu lol.anyone decent can get good gains from the std ecu. it doesnt have to be standalone to get good gains. thats maybe your preference as you can map standalone but little else properly?? but then your into the realms of which standalone, the omex which any mupet can map, or ktecs effort which can be locked etc. i believe??? a good mapper will get good gains from all of the above, no matter whose ecu they are using. thats what they do. which is beyond me so i take it to a man who can.
Thats not the case at all, the standard ECU is stuck with only being capable of running speed/density based algorythms for controlling the fuelling, as such once you get into the realms of hot cams it cant cope properly, this is true of both the F4R and the F7R and is the reason that I would always recomend swapping to aftermarket from the beginning as then you arent going to hit a problem later on when you want to try and get decent power out of either engine as you can run a TPS based algorythm instead.
You are also stuck on a distributor and rotor arm setup if you are using the F7P management as the ECU isnt capable of running a coilpack, and if you ever want to swap to something that can you are then into the realms of having to swap the flywheel over from the renix 44-2-2 to a 172 flywheel as even the ecu's that can understand that nonsense flywheel layout cant do wasted spark on it unless you start adding a cam trigger as well as the layout doesnt allow the ecu to distinguish between cylinders.
Most mappers also cant map the renault F7P ECU's for the reason that they cant be bothered buying the equipment and messing around with it just for the sake of an antique that no sensible person would run on a decent spec engine anyway, its dead old technology, so unless you are doing it for a labour or love (like kj16v has for example) then it would be ludicrously expensive to the customer for you to waste all that time. The F4R though is a more modern ecu and at least can manage things like coilpack and a lot more mappers will bother with them as they dont have to mess around with emulators or chip changes to map them, they can just reflash the standard ecu.
So the only thing you got right really TBH mate, is the bit about it all being over your head, as clearly it is indeed.


so to sum up. you are still wrong in saying that an f4 conversion is easier and better than a similar specced f7r conversion.
I havent actually said exactly that, its easier mechanically speaking as no need to mix and match heads from different engines or change the cams, but like Ive said each has different pitfalls, some people dont want to be changing heads and cams around and would sooner just bolt an engine in and then pay someone to wire it and map it for them on aftermarket which is a good place to end up, its those people for whom the F4R makes so much more sense. Neither of the standard ECU's is any good longer term IMHO so both are best avoided on a bigger project.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
The only time my F4r has failed was because of my lack of competence and knowledge. Nothing to do with the engine or hardware.

There are 100's of F4r'd cars on here, maybe even 000's that have run well into the 100,000 mile mark and are going stronger than ever. To say its unreliable is complete horse s**t. I've owned plenty of mk1's and plenty of mk2's Fact is, mk2 is more reliable. You'd be a complete Merrick to disagree with that tbh.

A conversion is only as good as the bloke that converted it. FACT.


Agreed, and the head gasket in particular on the F7R/F7P is far more of a weak spot for example than it is on the F4R, the F4R is actually a very robust engine considering its making well over 80bhp per litre in standard form.

Ours has done 140K miles now, pulls like a train through the whole rev range and revs cleanly to 7500rpm, not uncommon at all for an F4R, but rare indeed for an F7R.
 
  williams and trophy
I love the way you are just quoting duration of a cam and not even considering the valve acceleration rates or the lift, lol.
The thing that makes the F4R a little worse at the bottom end than the F7R (and there really isnt much in it anyway, we're only talking a dozen lbft anywhere realistically) is not the ports like you are saying, that does have an effect but far more of it is down to the standard inlet manifold, not anything internal to the engine.
Fit an RS2 and you can have a 150lbft of torque for the entire rev range from the F4R with no other changes, so it shows its nothing internal to the engine that gives them their unpleasant standard torque curve shape..


because most of the cams are ranged in duration. lift/ramp are usually around about the same from diff suppliers, give or take a few thou lift. which is neither here nor there really. some 260 cams will actually be around 258 degs some are 260 , and likewise some are a couple thou more lift than others.the difference is nothing to get your knickers in a twist over though






Thats not the case at all, the standard ECU is stuck with only being capable of running speed/density based algorythms for controlling the fuelling, as such once you get into the realms of hot cams it cant cope properly, this is true of both the F4R and the F7R and is the reason that I would always recomend swapping to aftermarket from the beginning as then you arent going to hit a problem later on when you want to try and get decent power out of either engine as you can run a TPS based algorythm instead.
You are also stuck on a distributor and rotor arm setup if you are using the F7P management as the ECU isnt capable of running a coilpack, and if you ever want to swap to something that can you are then into the realms of having to swap the flywheel over from the renix 44-2-2 to a 172 flywheel as even the ecu's that can understand that nonsense flywheel layout cant do wasted spark on it unless you start adding a cam trigger as well as the layout doesnt allow the ecu to distinguish between cylinders.
Most mappers also cant map the renault F7P ECU's for the reason that they cant be bothered buying the equipment and messing around with it just for the sake of an antique that no sensible person would run on a decent spec engine anyway, its dead old technology, so unless you are doing it for a labour or love (like kj16v has for example) then it would be ludicrously expensive to the customer for you to waste all that time. The F4R though is a more modern ecu and at least can manage things like coilpack and a lot more mappers will bother with them as they dont have to mess around with emulators or chip changes to map them, they can just reflash the standard ecu.
So the only thing you got right really TBH mate, is the bit about it all being over your head, as clearly it is indeed..

who said anything about it being over my head, except you of course. its something iv never really looked into doing myself, il admit. but thats because i know people who could do in an hour with their eyes shut what it would take me a hell of a lot longer to get near. and as stated above...a GOOD mapper CAN get decent gains from the std ecu. in your statement there youv just completely dismissed rs tunings ability to map a car..or was that your point?? ;) they re-map teh std ecu for the rs2 that you keep w**king on about do they not?? your own car was/is mapped on the std ecu was it not?? did you get decent gaiins or was it a bag of s**t?? you got gains that kept you harping on about them for ages...mwm this that and the other...but they mapped the std ecu. make your mind up, either you can get amazing gains from mapping the ecu (night and day before and after the remap i believe you explained it as) or you cant as youve just stated above?? and you dont have to fit a meg flywheel at all. where do you get this info from?? and your statement about the dead old tech. yes it is...but so is the laser for reading a cd...doesnt stop it being used regularly tho does it? and still used widely. as i said a decent mapper can overcome the problems in mapping these. a chip change is necessary on the std f7 ecu, but that adds to teh ability of the guy doing it, i.e. he has to be able to do that before he can do anything else, like learning to walk before you try to run


I havent actually said exactly that, its easier mechanically speaking as no need to mix and match heads from different engines or change the cams, but like Ive said each has different pitfalls, some people dont want to be changing heads and cams around and would sooner just bolt an engine in and then pay someone to wire it and map it for them on aftermarket which is a good place to end up, its those people for whom the F4R makes so much more sense. Neither of the standard ECU's is any good longer term IMHO so both are best avoided on a bigger project.


with a williams engine there is no need to mix and match heads either. for the meg there is. but tbh, anyone doing teh conversion of either, and spending the money to do it, personally i would be stripping it down and fitting new shells/mains etc anyway for peace of mind, do it right, do it once and all that, so even with the meg btm end, for me, it would be getting a new headgasket/cambelt/shell/rings also. i have just thrown engines in in the past without doing this and it has come back and bitten me in the ass at a later date. unknown quantities etc. but likewise for bigger projects even with the f4 id be wanting to get rid of the std valves at least and getting some decent 1 piece ones installed, again for peace of mind, do it right do it once. so youd still be looking at the same work involved. but without the hassle of the attempting to rewire it or paying more for someone else t o do it
 
Last edited:
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
who said anything about it being over my head, except you of course. its something iv never really looked into doing myself, il admit. but thats because i know people who could do in an hour with their eyes shut what it would take me a hell of a lot longer to get near. and as stated above...a GOOD mapper CAN get decent gains from the std ecu. in your statement there youv just completely dismissed rs tunings ability to map a car..or was that your point?? ;) they re-map teh std ecu for the rs2 that you keep w**king on about do they not??
The standard ecu can be remapped on both engines if you have the relevent equipment (I have the equipment to do the F4R but havent bothered buying the kit to do the F7R as its a case of different chips etc and its just far more hassle than its worth on such a rubbish ECU anyway) but like I said in my post and you seemed to have failed to comprehend you are severely limited if you want to start making big mods to the engine as the ECU will ONLY run a speed density based fuelling algortythm and that doesnt suit much hotter cams.


your own car was/is mapped on the std ecu was it not?? did you get decent gaiins or was it a bag of s**t??
Not sure which of my cars you are on about with that question, but my williams engine if that is the one you mean is on aftermarket management, Autronic SM4 in fact.


On mild cams you got gains that kept you harping on about them for ages...mwm this that and the other...but they mapped the std ecu. make your mind up, either you can get amazing gains from mapping the ecu (night and day before and after the remap i believe you explained it as) or you cant as youve just stated above??
Ive never had a car mapped by MWM so I have no idea at all what you are on about there.
My RS2 car I mapped on the standard ECU as its only a very mild spec and the standard ECU can cope with that, if I wanted big power from it though then like I have mentioned already the standard ECU isnt upto the job (although it is FAR better than the F7R one at least in terms of being able to run wasted spark etc) so I would swap to aftermarket.

and you dont have to fit a meg flywheel at all. where do you get this info from??
Yes you do if you want to run a coilpack arrangement like I mentioned to get rid of the nasty distributor based setup (or even to run semi or sequential injection) then yes you do need to get rid of the 44-2-2 flywheel like I said as that flywheel doesnt allow the ECU to distinguish between the cylinders, with the exception (like I have already said as well) being if you add an additional cam sensor, and where I get my information from is a detailed knowledge of the subject of how ECU's work and what triggers they require to support different hardware based on a large amount of first hand experience.

and your statement about the dead old tech. yes it is...but so is the laser fo reading a cd...doesnt stop it being used regularly tho does it? and still used widely. as i said a decent mapper can overcome the problems in mapping these. a chip change is necessary on the std f7 ecu, but that adds to teh ability of the guy doing it, i.e. he has to be able to do that before he can do anything else, like learning to walk before you try to run
It just makes mapping them more cumbersome than using a decent ecu, and all just to end up with an ECU that is severely limited in the first place.






with a williams engine there is no need to mix and match heads either. for the meg there is.
Indeed, as I have already stated in this thead.

but tbh, anyone doing teh conversion of either, and spending the money to do it, personally i would be stripping it down and fitting new shells/mains etc anyway for peace of mind, do it right, do it once and all that, so even with the meg btm end, for me, it would be getting a new headgasket/cambelt/shell/rings also. i have just thrown engines in in the past without doing this and it has come back and bitten me in the ass at a later date.
With the F7R having such an appetite for head gaskets in particular it certainly makes good sense to do some maintainance on one before fitting, with the far superior F4R head gasket arranagement though at least that is one less thing to worry about

unknown quantities etc. but likewise for bigger projects even with the f4 id be wanting to get rid of the std valves at least and getting some decent 1 piece ones installed, again for peace of mind, do it right do it once. so youd still be looking at the same work involved. but without the hassle of the attempting to rewire it or paying more for someone else t o do it
If you are going into the realms of a bigger project then yes it makes perfect sense to replace at the very least the chocolate pistons and fit better valves, and preferably a set of rods or at least rod bolts too, and of course swap to a decent ECU that allows you to operate a suitable fueling algorythm rather than the speed density based setup of the F7R and F4R ecu's which means you cant even successfully make even very basic modifications like swapping to throttle bodies or even to hot cams on the standard inlet for example.

I must say I admire your persistance in carrying on trying to argue the case despite having utterly no experience of mapping the ecus or in fact clearly without even a basic understanding of how they work, it certainly shows tenacity on your part, a character trait Ive always admired. Its a bit fruitless though, you trying to teach your granny to suck eggs like this when I have first hand experience of the subject and you dont, lol
 
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  williams and trophy
Lol. My Williams ran on bodies, with stand alone ecu. It wasn't the 1st, and won't be the last. It DIDN'T have a none std flywheel on it. So again, you are wrong in that respect. It ran a trigger wheel . Simple as. I await your dismissal of this method. Yaaaaawwwn
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Lol. My Williams ran on bodies, with stand alone ecu. It wasn't the 1st, and won't be the last. It DIDN'T have a none std flywheel on it. So again, you are wrong in that respect. It ran a trigger wheel . Simple as. I await your dismissal of this method. Yaaaaawwwn

LOL, Again you clearly havent understood a word of what I said.
I have perosnally run throttle bodies on a williams engine using the original 44-2-2 flywheel and standard sensor, with not even an added trigger so of course I know its possible to do so you muppet and I havent said otherwise at any point!
I said that trigger pattern wont support wasted spark or semi or fully sequential fuelling without the addition of an extra sensor, and thats exactly what you had to do on your engine, well in fact you completely replaced the crank sensor rather than added a cam sensor, which will work fine but if you are doing a transplant and hence can do so in literally 10 minutes while the engine is out then you could have just swapped to a megane flywheel like I mention and then you wouldnt have had to go to the expense of setting up an external sensor. Either way though, you are having to move away from the completely rubbish 44-2-2 renix setup which like I have said is no good as it wont support wasted spark or semi or fully sequential fuelling.
I notice that you also sacked off the standard ECU and went aftermarket too, exactly like I am recomending people do for a similar spec engine and you are arguing isnt an issue to stick with, oh the irony, FLOL
Russ16v managed to get a set of bodies sort of working on the standard ECU if you want to start trying to quote examples to prove me wrong when I say that the standard speed density based fuelling algorythm isnt suitable for bodies, but the bottom line is that although it will kind of work, it wont ever work properly so is a complete case of p1ssing in the wind to be wasting so much money on mapping using an ECU that wont ever work properly because it is running an algorythm that is just not suited to the application in the first place and had he added cams things would have got even worse.

So just to clarify for you s simply as posible so you finally grasp it:
Williams 44-2-2 trigger pattern flywheel = wont support wasted spark or semi or fully sequential injection without additon of extra sensor
60 -2 trigger patter flywheel = can support wasted spark and semi sequential fuelling, but will need extra trigger for fully sequential
F7R ECU = will only run speed density fuelling algorythm, not good for a highly modified engined, cannot run wasted spark
F4R ECU = will only run speed density fuelling algorythm, not good for a highly modified engined, can run wasted spark
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
And as for which car you got decent gains out of on the std ecu, is your 172

So what is the car mapped by MWM you were rattling on about as they havent touched the maps on any of my cars, and I mapped the 172 you are now on about.
The gains are decent for a basic spec engine, which like I have been saying in this thread is all the standard ECU on either the F7R or F4R is capable of coping with. So at this stage I have stuck with the standard ECU for now as it was easy to do so, if I progress with the car though beyond anymore other than a mild cam upgrade then I fully realise that the standard ECU will then be out of its depth and I will at that point swap to aftermarket, hence I am saying if anyone wants a big spec engine later on they are better getting straight onto aftermarket at the point they do their engine conversion as then they can do things once properly to begin with rather than fit and map an ecu only to have to bin it later on anyway.
 
  williams and trophy
Above you said you need to change the flywheel to a meg to run a coilpack. This is wrong. You try to get away from that fact. The trigger wheel does away with the need for this. And yes I ran a coilpack and distrubuterless ignition. I never said anywhere that you didn't need to move away from the remix set up. No matter how much you try to twist and turn what iv said. To run a decent standalone. But that isn't the point here. The question was the f7r vs f4 conversion and its drawbacks/advantages
All I said was that in same spec, I.e same duration cams etc, the f7 would be an easier solution. Which you can't deny, and have even admitted to. No rewiring, no but remap needed. Which the std ecu can cope with and provide good gains.

I like the fact that you call me a Muppet whilst agreeing with me lol.

The mwm car was a trophy. I never said you had had YOUR car mapped there, just that you were wanking on about it. If you read my post properly you would see I said you had had good gains from your std ecu mapped. In your own words. Lol.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Above you said you need to change the flywheel to a meg to run a coilpack.
No I said you EITHER need to change the flywheel OR add an external trigger.

This is wrong.
No it isnt, the 44-2-2 trigger pattern cant support a coilpack without an external sensor, either cam like I mentioned initially, or crank like you are on about now.


You try to get away from that fact. The trigger wheel does away with the need for this. And yes I ran a coilpack and distrubuterless ignition.
As I have said several times now, you EITHER need to change to the megane flywheel (or a custom one) OR run an external trigger.
Neither of which you can do on the standard ECU that you keep telling people to keep of course, lol.

I never said anywhere that you didn't need to move away from the remix set up. No matter how much you try to twist and turn what iv said. To run a decent standalone.
You actually can keep the reNix configuration flywheel and still run standalone, you just need to add an additional cam sensor if you do (which you have to add even if you change the crank sensor if you want fully sequential injection or coil on plug too)

But that isn't the point here. The question was the f7r vs f4 conversion and its drawbacks/advantages
All I said was that in same spec, I.e same duration cams etc, the f7 would be an easier solution. Which you can't deny, and have even admitted to. No rewiring, no but remap needed. Which the std ecu can cope with and provide good gains.
You are saying "in the same spec its an easier solution" but like I have already said in this thread, while to me its a totally trivial thing to fit a new set of cams to an F7R and time them appropriately etc, to a lot of people that actually ISNT easier than just fitting an engine that requires a bit of wiring to get working.
Some people are happy with wiring but unhappy with opening up engines, and vice versa, so its pointless trying to make a completely sweeping statement that one is easier or harder than the other, to me both are a complete piece of cake but to many people one or the other might be but the other isnt.



I like the fact that you call me a Muppet whilst agreeing with me lol.
I am agreeing with you on the few things you have got right and calling you a muppet cause you are more interested in trying to keep arguing about something you clearly know nothing about than to leave it to someone else who knows far better to comment on that side of it.
All I care about is the facts being there so that forums can be a useful resource, I couldnt care less who said it first etc, so the points you are correct on I am agreeing with and the points you are incorrect on I am correcting you on.
Where as you appear to want to argue all points even when Im sure deep down you arent quite as stupid as you come across and must realise that I am totally correct but you carry on anyway just because you like arguing on the internet or something like that.


The mwm car was a trophy. I never said you had had YOUR car mapped there, just that you were w**king on about it. If you read my post properly you would see I said you had had good gains from your std ecu mapped. In your own words. Lol.
As I have said numberous times now, for a BASIC spec engine the F4R management is actually workable and most mappers of modern cars will be able to deal with it too, so although not ideal its something you can get by with quite well if it happened to be on your car to start with, which is another plus point over the F7R tbh as so few people are prepared to mess about mapping those, so I am not sure why you keep going on about my car or that trophy as if that somehow is relevant to what I am saying that if its a project car that is likely to progress a lot further that you are doing an engine conversion into then aftermarket is a far better option from the word go rather than messing around with either standard management.
 

Cookson

ClioSport Club Member
  Mk1 Audi TT 3.2 V6
F4R - 165bhp

F7R - 150bhp

Figures speak for themselves standard for standard
 


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