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Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project [Year 3 - Engine and Chassis Rebuild]
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Punt that in my direction if you would mind pwease?I have the formula on an excel spreadsheet if you need it
maynard
ClioSport Club Member
ph2 172 track car
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
pm'd
I have the formula on an excel spreadsheet if you need it
pm'd
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Get your website back up and going! - been down for months and need it for images/information on the 172 engine
Get your website back up and going! - been down for months and need it for images/information on the 172 engine
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Right then - Update time.
Before FCS I set about tidying up some bits on the car. The main one was finding some sheets of grip-tape big enough to cover the floor in the shape of a floor mat inside. I didnt want to use a normal mat as it would just slide about, so wanted something adhesive.
It took ages to find anything that was big enough and good enough quality - I could have used skateboard stuff but it would mean having a join in it etc and I didnt want that. I managed to find a company local-ish to me who were happy to help, and had some decent sized sheets in black that would be perfect. £6/sheet and I was pleased with how thick/good quality they were.
I set about cutting them to the shape of the standard floor mat, then with a bit of help stuck them down. Not got any pictures but you get the idea, miles better and finishes off the inside nicely. Il post some pics of the finished article sometime soon.
After tidying up a few more loose ends from front bumper mounts, to bleeding the brakes and making a center section exhaust hanger I was about ready for FCS/Rockingham Trackday. We were only going to FCS to make a weekend out of having a full day at Rockingham on the Monday, turned out to be OK in the end.
Made it down to FCS and the car was on the WilliamsClio stand, some of you may have seen it on there. Met a few new faces also who asked some questions about the car etc which was cool.
After FCS we headed back to the hotel for the night. I decided to swap my wheels over to the Superleggeras/R888's so I didnt have to mess around in the morning for the trackday. When we got up it was raining and damp, drove it to the circuit and unloaded everything from the car.
The R888's were not too bad in the damp/wet, although the track was slippery as f*ck with all the rubber on the track and added rain. The car went and drove well, and luckily the rain had stopped by 10am which meant the track started to dry out nicely.
After about 20 laps when the track was starting to dry out, I came upto the Tarzan hairpin and under braking/mid corner I got a huge vibration/knocking noise - I thought the driveshaft had snapped so held the wheel straight and went onto the grass. To my suprise when I got out the N/S front wheel had completely come off, and was jammed up into the arch. The brake disc was resting on the bottom of the rim and all four bolts were missing.
When the recovery came out, we wandered onto the hairpin and found the four bolts on the tarmac coming upto the approach of the Tarzan hairpin. I could not believe what had happened, as I religiously torque up all the wheel bolts when fitting wheels - as many of the other people there had watched me do when fitting the Superleggeras!
Really do have no idea how it managed to happen, weather the threads were weak or the bolts were f*cked who knows - I just hope it never happens again.
We tried to re-fit the wheel to get the car back to the garage but the bolts would not thread into the hub, all the threads were stripped and bolts f*cked. After managing to get it back into the pit garage, I stripped down the brakes to reveal the bare hub on the N/S - as expected all the threads were completely stripped.
After checking the other three wheels, all were still tight which made this even more odd! A few pictures of the damage to the wheel...
I need to get the wheel checked really, as im unsure if its safe to use again. One of the tapered seats for the bolts looks a bit iffy, and there is a chunk missing out of the spigot seat.
Anyway, by this point Andyrg's car had broken down on track with terminal damage, so he offered to lend me his hub (as hes running the same 172 widetrack setup as me) for the rest of the day/to get me home as his was going home on the back of his recovery truck. Swapped them round over lunch...
And had the car back ready to go on track by the time the track re-opened. I ran the Williams wheels on the front with the T1-Rs on for the rest of the day, and now that the track was fully dry it really was a good afternoon.
The circuit was a lot better than I expected, especially the very fast chicane on the first corner. With the R888's on the back it felt like the car had a lot more grip and it could really be thrown in more so than last year. Who knows if thats the tyres or the modifications to the shocks/cage, but its completely different to drive for sure.
I had issues with the N/S driveshaft throughout the afternoon giving a huge vibration round right handers, but I just put up with that and carried on. It needs replacing but I need a new hub first so I can do them both at the same time.
Had a few good sessions out on track, one with NathanH chasing me down (well trying :rasp and a couple with a DC2 - just lucky that Andy had a hub he could lend me or the day would have been wasted!
So there we have it, another trackday with plenty of problems - not just for me either unfortunately :dapprove: But once I got going again it was good fun.
Cheers to Andy for lending me the hub, Adam/Rob for the pics etc. Just need to sort a driveshaft, hub and possibly spare wheel now before Cadwell on the 7th July - so Il update some more soon :approve:
Right then - Update time.
Before FCS I set about tidying up some bits on the car. The main one was finding some sheets of grip-tape big enough to cover the floor in the shape of a floor mat inside. I didnt want to use a normal mat as it would just slide about, so wanted something adhesive.
It took ages to find anything that was big enough and good enough quality - I could have used skateboard stuff but it would mean having a join in it etc and I didnt want that. I managed to find a company local-ish to me who were happy to help, and had some decent sized sheets in black that would be perfect. £6/sheet and I was pleased with how thick/good quality they were.
I set about cutting them to the shape of the standard floor mat, then with a bit of help stuck them down. Not got any pictures but you get the idea, miles better and finishes off the inside nicely. Il post some pics of the finished article sometime soon.
After tidying up a few more loose ends from front bumper mounts, to bleeding the brakes and making a center section exhaust hanger I was about ready for FCS/Rockingham Trackday. We were only going to FCS to make a weekend out of having a full day at Rockingham on the Monday, turned out to be OK in the end.
Made it down to FCS and the car was on the WilliamsClio stand, some of you may have seen it on there. Met a few new faces also who asked some questions about the car etc which was cool.
After FCS we headed back to the hotel for the night. I decided to swap my wheels over to the Superleggeras/R888's so I didnt have to mess around in the morning for the trackday. When we got up it was raining and damp, drove it to the circuit and unloaded everything from the car.
The R888's were not too bad in the damp/wet, although the track was slippery as f*ck with all the rubber on the track and added rain. The car went and drove well, and luckily the rain had stopped by 10am which meant the track started to dry out nicely.
After about 20 laps when the track was starting to dry out, I came upto the Tarzan hairpin and under braking/mid corner I got a huge vibration/knocking noise - I thought the driveshaft had snapped so held the wheel straight and went onto the grass. To my suprise when I got out the N/S front wheel had completely come off, and was jammed up into the arch. The brake disc was resting on the bottom of the rim and all four bolts were missing.
When the recovery came out, we wandered onto the hairpin and found the four bolts on the tarmac coming upto the approach of the Tarzan hairpin. I could not believe what had happened, as I religiously torque up all the wheel bolts when fitting wheels - as many of the other people there had watched me do when fitting the Superleggeras!
Really do have no idea how it managed to happen, weather the threads were weak or the bolts were f*cked who knows - I just hope it never happens again.
We tried to re-fit the wheel to get the car back to the garage but the bolts would not thread into the hub, all the threads were stripped and bolts f*cked. After managing to get it back into the pit garage, I stripped down the brakes to reveal the bare hub on the N/S - as expected all the threads were completely stripped.
After checking the other three wheels, all were still tight which made this even more odd! A few pictures of the damage to the wheel...
I need to get the wheel checked really, as im unsure if its safe to use again. One of the tapered seats for the bolts looks a bit iffy, and there is a chunk missing out of the spigot seat.
Anyway, by this point Andyrg's car had broken down on track with terminal damage, so he offered to lend me his hub (as hes running the same 172 widetrack setup as me) for the rest of the day/to get me home as his was going home on the back of his recovery truck. Swapped them round over lunch...
And had the car back ready to go on track by the time the track re-opened. I ran the Williams wheels on the front with the T1-Rs on for the rest of the day, and now that the track was fully dry it really was a good afternoon.
The circuit was a lot better than I expected, especially the very fast chicane on the first corner. With the R888's on the back it felt like the car had a lot more grip and it could really be thrown in more so than last year. Who knows if thats the tyres or the modifications to the shocks/cage, but its completely different to drive for sure.
I had issues with the N/S driveshaft throughout the afternoon giving a huge vibration round right handers, but I just put up with that and carried on. It needs replacing but I need a new hub first so I can do them both at the same time.
Had a few good sessions out on track, one with NathanH chasing me down (well trying :rasp
and a couple with a DC2 - just lucky that Andy had a hub he could lend me or the day would have been wasted!So there we have it, another trackday with plenty of problems - not just for me either unfortunately :dapprove: But once I got going again it was good fun.
Cheers to Andy for lending me the hub, Adam/Rob for the pics etc. Just need to sort a driveshaft, hub and possibly spare wheel now before Cadwell on the 7th July - so Il update some more soon :approve:
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Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
were the wheels freshly coated? ie were the bolts clamping down onto powder coat rather than the wheel?
were the wheels freshly coated? ie were the bolts clamping down onto powder coat rather than the wheel?
Mk1 F4R
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Was a great weekend fcs then rockingham trackday on monday, shame about wot happend on the day but glad it was all sorted out. Glad i could be of service with the pics as sadly my car didnt make it, might be the same for cadwell at this rate.
One photo of you car i had to post up as it an amazing car
Was a great weekend fcs then rockingham trackday on monday, shame about wot happend on the day but glad it was all sorted out. Glad i could be of service with the pics as sadly my car didnt make it, might be the same for cadwell at this rate.
One photo of you car i had to post up as it an amazing car
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Yeah they were fresh, although they had been fitted a few times at home - all the powdercoat had come off round/on the bolt taper/seats - so im quite confident it isnt that :dapprove:
Yeah they were fresh, although they had been fitted a few times at home - all the powdercoat had come off round/on the bolt taper/seats - so im quite confident it isnt that :dapprove:
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Fuel pressure reg had been pissed around with and he ended up getting det at high RPM, blowing a hole in a piston and ruining the block :dapprove:
No problem - Maybe Anglesey, we'l see!
s**tluck that! good thing tha the day wasnt completely wasted. what actually hapened to andyrg's?
oh and, is this rigby... talking to a girl?
Fuel pressure reg had been pissed around with and he ended up getting det at high RPM, blowing a hole in a piston and ruining the block :dapprove:
car looked great mate - u two should be proud of what youve done.
DONT FORGET ANGLESEY IN AUGUST
Oh and thanks for coming on the stand too
No problem - Maybe Anglesey, we'l see!
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
my mk1 did that after a lap of the ring mate, all 4 bolts worked loose, as luck would have it i managed to stop in time before it fell off.
And end of last year, after a few sessions at Combe, the following day same thing happened, again I was lucky enough to catch it.
Both the n/s/f wheel too
my mk1 did that after a lap of the ring mate, all 4 bolts worked loose, as luck would have it i managed to stop in time before it fell off.
And end of last year, after a few sessions at Combe, the following day same thing happened, again I was lucky enough to catch it.
Both the n/s/f wheel too
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
LOL... The same thing happened to me last week, after a 2200 mile road trip the wheel almost fell off 4 miles from my house!
All 4 nuts where finger loose at best... They where all torqued up before the trip and checked twice!
LOL... The same thing happened to me last week, after a 2200 mile road trip the wheel almost fell off 4 miles from my house!
All 4 nuts where finger loose at best... They where all torqued up before the trip and checked twice!
Nimbus 197, Ph1 172
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Car looks great. Wheels coming loose has happened to me too! On both n/s wheels. Caught it just in time luckily. Also had 4 wheel bolts snap when doing up on my Williams, with my torque wrench. Luckily they are the same as Micra wheel bolts.
Car looks great. Wheels coming loose has happened to me too! On both n/s wheels. Caught it just in time luckily. Also had 4 wheel bolts snap when doing up on my Williams, with my torque wrench. Luckily they are the same as Micra wheel bolts.
Fiesta ST-3
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
unlucky with that. Looked awesome at fcs!
unlucky with that. Looked awesome at fcs!
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Either the hubs threads were previously f*cked somehow, or they had come loose some other way, I have no idea how its happened which is quite worrying! Its never happened before, and I only did the same as I always do with torquing them up, etc.
Either the hubs threads were previously f*cked somehow, or they had come loose some other way, I have no idea how its happened which is quite worrying! Its never happened before, and I only did the same as I always do with torquing them up, etc.
Sunflower & Golf Mk6 BMT
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
This almost happened to me in my valver at Oulton Park! I swear I torqued the bolts with a torque wrench to correct settings. Luckily I heard a vibration/humming noise (similar to a knocking shaft/bearing) and pulled in to find ALL four wheel bolts finger loose! shat myself lol. Subsequently replaced all bolts with new items and never had the problem.
My conclusion was that the bolts must have been stretched due to over tightening. But that was just my own thought. I suppose if you constantly un-doing and re-torquing they stretch after a while and fatigue.
This almost happened to me in my valver at Oulton Park! I swear I torqued the bolts with a torque wrench to correct settings. Luckily I heard a vibration/humming noise (similar to a knocking shaft/bearing) and pulled in to find ALL four wheel bolts finger loose! shat myself lol. Subsequently replaced all bolts with new items and never had the problem.
My conclusion was that the bolts must have been stretched due to over tightening. But that was just my own thought. I suppose if you constantly un-doing and re-torquing they stretch after a while and fatigue.
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Well, they are taken on and off alot (the amount the cars in bits) and every trackday wheels are swapped to the Superleggeras etc, so it could be related to that BUT the other side was still tight and so were the backs, which are taken off just as much...
I always tighten them by hand while its up in the air to seat the wheels fully, then torque wrench when on the floor - when I swapped them at the hotel everyone watched me torque the wheels up, as I drove to the track on them in the morning.
I didnt feel anything odd on the way there, or for the first 20 laps or so, I doubt I would have heard any vibrations as im running a solid subframe mount, solid engine mount and loads of other bits that make the car vibrate to f*ck lol - but I can safely say I did not feel anything through the wheel until the approach to the corner - its just odd and worrying how its only happened now, and that it was all four bolts on a single wheel...
The bolts were ok, although the threads were full of metal (stripped from the hub), and the ovalling to the bolt holes on the wheel says to me that its been progressively working loose until the threads could no longer hold and just ripped all four out.
IIRC only one of the threads would take a thread and tighten, the other three had nothing left and you could literally push the bolt in and out with little force as if it was just a smooth hole. Found all four bolts intact on the corner itself!
Well, they are taken on and off alot (the amount the cars in bits) and every trackday wheels are swapped to the Superleggeras etc, so it could be related to that BUT the other side was still tight and so were the backs, which are taken off just as much...
I always tighten them by hand while its up in the air to seat the wheels fully, then torque wrench when on the floor - when I swapped them at the hotel everyone watched me torque the wheels up, as I drove to the track on them in the morning.
I didnt feel anything odd on the way there, or for the first 20 laps or so, I doubt I would have heard any vibrations as im running a solid subframe mount, solid engine mount and loads of other bits that make the car vibrate to f*ck lol - but I can safely say I did not feel anything through the wheel until the approach to the corner - its just odd and worrying how its only happened now, and that it was all four bolts on a single wheel...
The bolts were ok, although the threads were full of metal (stripped from the hub), and the ovalling to the bolt holes on the wheel says to me that its been progressively working loose until the threads could no longer hold and just ripped all four out.
IIRC only one of the threads would take a thread and tighten, the other three had nothing left and you could literally push the bolt in and out with little force as if it was just a smooth hole. Found all four bolts intact on the corner itself!
ValverInBits
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
By what your saying it'd agree that they've worked loose and then mullered the hub as they were worked about. The heat may have had something to do with it. Hotter bolt>gets bigger>longer>therefore looser etc.
The only thing I could suggest as a form of threadlock would be a touch of exhaust paste on the threads. Danny have me the idea for my downpipe off my turbo
By what your saying it'd agree that they've worked loose and then mullered the hub as they were worked about. The heat may have had something to do with it. Hotter bolt>gets bigger>longer>therefore looser etc.
The only thing I could suggest as a form of threadlock would be a touch of exhaust paste on the threads. Danny have me the idea for my downpipe off my turbo
Sunflower & Golf Mk6 BMT
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Heard using thread lock or copper greese is a bad idea on wheel bolts.
Not sure if this would reduce the risk or help in anyway, but what about a stud conversion kit where the studs are glued in the hub and you just undo the nuts to get the wheel off (im sure you have looked at this anyway). That should elminate the hub being a problem. It also helps you align the wheel perfectly and also flat on the hub.
If your taking your wheels of regularly the thread on the hub is bound to wear.
Take a look: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stud-conversi...Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item48361a45ba
Heard using thread lock or copper greese is a bad idea on wheel bolts.
Not sure if this would reduce the risk or help in anyway, but what about a stud conversion kit where the studs are glued in the hub and you just undo the nuts to get the wheel off (im sure you have looked at this anyway). That should elminate the hub being a problem. It also helps you align the wheel perfectly and also flat on the hub.
If your taking your wheels of regularly the thread on the hub is bound to wear.
Take a look: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stud-conversi...Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item48361a45ba
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Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Yeah, the thing is though - 12/13 trackdays last year and over 10k miles in total and its never happened before? It can only be down to the hub being worn or loose bolts somehow really...
I was considering it a while back to make it easier when changing wheels, would probably only bother with the fronts though.
Ive heard of people getting steel studs and tacking them onto the back of the hub/stud once its screwed fully in, but im not sure what Renaults stuff are made from or if it would work. Would be certain not do come out or move at all then...
Yeah, the thing is though - 12/13 trackdays last year and over 10k miles in total and its never happened before? It can only be down to the hub being worn or loose bolts somehow really...
I was considering it a while back to make it easier when changing wheels, would probably only bother with the fronts though.
Ive heard of people getting steel studs and tacking them onto the back of the hub/stud once its screwed fully in, but im not sure what Renaults stuff are made from or if it would work. Would be certain not do come out or move at all then...
Sunflower & Golf Mk6 BMT
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Hubs are made from high strength steel and normally a forging. If you weld the studs onto the hub you could disrupt the heat treatment and cause stress in the metal. Personally i'd just araldite them in, they wont go anywhere.
Hubs are made from high strength steel and normally a forging. If you weld the studs onto the hub you could disrupt the heat treatment and cause stress in the metal. Personally i'd just araldite them in, they wont go anywhere.
ValverInBits
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
I'd disagree that hubs are made of anything special, i think it's a cheap casting. But I do agree with you that the heat from the welding is likely just to give a material/mechanical stress concentration. Is araldite heat resistant? It'd be worth finding out what it will withstand.
I see your point about the fatigue jord. It's seen a lot of use. It's a bit worrying that they are 172 hubs, they should be designed for a heavier car. I wonder if it'd be possible to buy the outer part of the hub separately new from somewhere/stealers. Atleast then you know that it's unused.
I'd disagree that hubs are made of anything special, i think it's a cheap casting. But I do agree with you that the heat from the welding is likely just to give a material/mechanical stress concentration. Is araldite heat resistant? It'd be worth finding out what it will withstand.
I see your point about the fatigue jord. It's seen a lot of use. It's a bit worrying that they are 172 hubs, they should be designed for a heavier car. I wonder if it'd be possible to buy the outer part of the hub separately new from somewhere/stealers. Atleast then you know that it's unused.
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Yeah, might be worth looking into. I already have a drivers side hub spare that I always take to trackdays with me incase of bearing failure etc, too bad it was passenger side on the day. Il probably end up fixing the hub with a new bearing/stub considering its already machined down so ive got a spare pair I can take with me.
Not to worry, you didnt miss much, it was just left on the WC stand for most of the day. I wandered round for a bit and got bored as with every year at FCS - we were only there due to having a trackday on the Monday!
Yeah, might be worth looking into. I already have a drivers side hub spare that I always take to trackdays with me incase of bearing failure etc, too bad it was passenger side on the day. Il probably end up fixing the hub with a new bearing/stub considering its already machined down so ive got a spare pair I can take with me.
Not to worry, you didnt miss much, it was just left on the WC stand for most of the day. I wandered round for a bit and got bored as with every year at FCS - we were only there due to having a trackday on the Monday!
Sunflower & Golf Mk6 BMT
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Their definitely not made out of low grade steel as it is a high strength part, probably a carbon based steel made from electric arc furnace then forged and heat treated or tempered. Which brings me back to my first point that welding heat will weaken and destroy the heat treatment. lol this is getting a bit technical now, can you tell I work in the steel industry?
Their definitely not made out of low grade steel as it is a high strength part, probably a carbon based steel made from electric arc furnace then forged and heat treated or tempered. Which brings me back to my first point that welding heat will weaken and destroy the heat treatment. lol this is getting a bit technical now, can you tell I work in the steel industry?
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Still not got the machined hub back yet, or a replacement driveshaft. Il do a proper update once I get round to doing them.
I spent some time hiding ALL the wiring up inside the dash top the other day, nothing visible now really! As said earlier - picture of the grip-tape on the floors too (even though its now a bit muddy)...
And a few more general pictures, including a comedy plate Bifcaids found some time ago at an autojumble...
More soon!
Still not got the machined hub back yet, or a replacement driveshaft. Il do a proper update once I get round to doing them.
I spent some time hiding ALL the wiring up inside the dash top the other day, nothing visible now really! As said earlier - picture of the grip-tape on the floors too (even though its now a bit muddy)...
And a few more general pictures, including a comedy plate Bifcaids found some time ago at an autojumble...
More soon!
Mk1 Ph3
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
It was on the WilliamsClio stand, near ClioSport
Little bit of an update. My current fuel pump has done an unknown milage (170k+ after thinking about it), so ive always been weary of it packing up like the original one from the car did on the way to Cadwell Park last summer. Ive been meaning to sort/replace it for ages now (over a year) but never got round to it.
I got a 172 Ph1 fuel pump complete from BenP way back last year as I was going to try and fit the complete thing, although there were a few problems and it turns out a 172 pump housing will not fit directly into the Mk1 fuel tank. As far as I know, this 172 pump has done little milage and should be more reliable being newer and from a different manufacturer.
I could go and buy a brand new Walbro pump from eBay for a Mk1/Williams for circa £70-80 and fit it into my Mk1 housing, but where is the fun in that I may do in the future, but for now hopefully this will work well...
The main reason the pump housing will not fit into the Mk1 tank is the way the float/fuel level works...
Its just far too big to fit/have enough room to work. So I decided why not take the actual pump out of the inside of the unit, and fit it into a Mk1 housing, as when I first removed the pump it looked a similar size...
So I got hold of a second hand (unknown milage) Mk1 pump and removed the actual pump from the housing. Side by side there is not much between them...
Although the way they sat in the housing was quite different...
The rubber seats the Mk1 pump used would not directly fit onto the Mk2/172 pump, nor would the Mk2/172 rubbers fit into the Mk1 housing. So I decided to adapt the Mk1 rubbers to fit the 172 fuel pump...
(Top Pump Rubber - Mk1 Left, 172 Right)
The rubber needed opening out to the size of the 172 rubber - after that was done I trial fitted the pump into the Mk1 housing...
Seemed to fit fine and sit at the correct depth to allow the bottom rubber/plate to fit nicely. Before I could fit it in, I needed to modify the wiring.
The 172 pump uses a proper connector/plug, whereas the Mk1 pump used some rig-up crimps. I decided to keep the 172 plug, so removed it from the 172 pump housing and connected it upto the Mk1 setup...
I then attached the hose to the top of the pump securing it with a small jubilee clip and connected the plug...
Lastly was the bottom rubber. It needed a bit of trimming to allow the 172 pump pickup filter to fit on...
But it all went together and tightened up fine...
Leaving me with one complete 'hybrid' Mk1 172 fuel pump!
I will probably fit it over the weekend... I can keep my current one as an emergency spare then :boring:
More soon!
It was on the WilliamsClio stand, near ClioSport
Little bit of an update. My current fuel pump has done an unknown milage (170k+ after thinking about it), so ive always been weary of it packing up like the original one from the car did on the way to Cadwell Park last summer. Ive been meaning to sort/replace it for ages now (over a year) but never got round to it.
I got a 172 Ph1 fuel pump complete from BenP way back last year as I was going to try and fit the complete thing, although there were a few problems and it turns out a 172 pump housing will not fit directly into the Mk1 fuel tank. As far as I know, this 172 pump has done little milage and should be more reliable being newer and from a different manufacturer.
I could go and buy a brand new Walbro pump from eBay for a Mk1/Williams for circa £70-80 and fit it into my Mk1 housing, but where is the fun in that
I may do in the future, but for now hopefully this will work well...The main reason the pump housing will not fit into the Mk1 tank is the way the float/fuel level works...
Its just far too big to fit/have enough room to work. So I decided why not take the actual pump out of the inside of the unit, and fit it into a Mk1 housing, as when I first removed the pump it looked a similar size...
So I got hold of a second hand (unknown milage) Mk1 pump and removed the actual pump from the housing. Side by side there is not much between them...
Although the way they sat in the housing was quite different...
The rubber seats the Mk1 pump used would not directly fit onto the Mk2/172 pump, nor would the Mk2/172 rubbers fit into the Mk1 housing. So I decided to adapt the Mk1 rubbers to fit the 172 fuel pump...
(Top Pump Rubber - Mk1 Left, 172 Right)
The rubber needed opening out to the size of the 172 rubber - after that was done I trial fitted the pump into the Mk1 housing...
Seemed to fit fine and sit at the correct depth to allow the bottom rubber/plate to fit nicely. Before I could fit it in, I needed to modify the wiring.
The 172 pump uses a proper connector/plug, whereas the Mk1 pump used some rig-up crimps. I decided to keep the 172 plug, so removed it from the 172 pump housing and connected it upto the Mk1 setup...
I then attached the hose to the top of the pump securing it with a small jubilee clip and connected the plug...
Lastly was the bottom rubber. It needed a bit of trimming to allow the 172 pump pickup filter to fit on...
But it all went together and tightened up fine...
Leaving me with one complete 'hybrid' Mk1 172 fuel pump!
I will probably fit it over the weekend... I can keep my current one as an emergency spare then :boring:
More soon!
