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Moffxx Iceberg 172 Cup - Progress Thread
- Thread starter Moffxx
- Start date
Not entirely out of the woods yet, something else is still up. Back out after an hour and fob didn’t unlock (potential battery, doubtful) but the central locking kicked in when I put the key in the passenger side which is the first time that’s happened.
Sat in the car for a bit and pressed some buttons, all working. 5 mins later the alarm went off, keys not working, button not working. Had to DC battery again.
Too hungover to drive today for steel wool and contact cleaner so cotton buds and WD40 is what I had to make do with 😂
At this point in I’m at a bit of a loss to be honest. I don’t understand how something as simple as pulling the fuse and reinserting sorts the issue. But then it occurs almost straight away.
Side note, found this on my travels. Any ideas ?
andy_coops
ClioSport Club Member
172, VRS, Clio 5
Hope you manage to get it sorted 👍FWIW the SOGA puts the onus on the dealer to prove the fault wasn’t there when you bought the car.
OK so midweek update on the plans for the weekend. Trying the simple stuff.
Replacing key fob batteries
Will try brand new fuses
Triple check battery
Steel wool and contact cleaner on all the connections
Got an iCarsoft code reader getting delivered so will see if it flags anything that way.
Unless that works or anything obvious comes up on the code reader, I think I’ll try a new UCH / ECU / Fobs from the breakers. IF that doesn’t work then it’s got to be a wiring issue and will need to go to the garage.
At this point i’m genuinely unsure about keeping it, even if I can fix. Although it’s a “weekend toy” I would like to be able to drive to the gym, shops etc without having to worry about it lol.
Replacing key fob batteries
Will try brand new fuses
Triple check battery
Steel wool and contact cleaner on all the connections
Got an iCarsoft code reader getting delivered so will see if it flags anything that way.
Unless that works or anything obvious comes up on the code reader, I think I’ll try a new UCH / ECU / Fobs from the breakers. IF that doesn’t work then it’s got to be a wiring issue and will need to go to the garage.
At this point i’m genuinely unsure about keeping it, even if I can fix. Although it’s a “weekend toy” I would like to be able to drive to the gym, shops etc without having to worry about it lol.
It will be fine once sorted mate, not getting away from it being a 16year old french hatch back. Just be methodical in your approach. I’m pretty confident it’s a white plug issue, but also check basic things like battery charge etc. Also relays and all electrical connections. Big thing would also be the earths. They will all be getting to the point where they need some attention
clio 172
Yeah the problem is i think you will be chasing your tail , there are good clios and bad clios. Ive had 1 of each , my RB didnt give me 1 issue in 3 years and 34k of miles and my iceberg funny enough has had multiple electrical faults .
Overtime i coukd accept this but you have just bought this and paid strong money with claims that the car is mint
Overtime i coukd accept this but you have just bought this and paid strong money with claims that the car is mint
Jamess182
ClioSport Club Member
Don't be too put off mate. Okay, this is a rather large 'blip' in the road but overall, these cars are super cheap to run and maintain if you're handy with a spanner. Best value for money cars on the road imo.
Sorry to see its giving you grief at the moment but once it's sorted and you can put some miles down again, you won't want to sell it.
Earth straps are on the list to check at the weekend too! I’ve already checked the obvious one at the battery terminal, looks good.
If I’m right that leaves 2 in the boot under the headlights, 3 under the dash top and the gearbox one ?
Battery charge is good, 12v with the engine off. Left headlights on for about 20 mins with engine off and was still running about 10/11v. Monitored when starting the car, dropped to about 9v and then straight back up to around 14v when the alternator kicked in. Pretty confident it’s not a battery issue.
Battery should read about 12.6v mate? Leave the car overnight then check the battery in the morning. Should read 12.6 or there abouts. I know from experience generally things get a bit muddled if the battery isn’t happy (especially alarm, immobiliser and locking), also check the output from from the alternator should increase to about 13v I believe if all is good.
I’d check all this and the earths before firing the parts cannon too much. If the earths are all clean, the white plug of death is spot on and battery is in top condition. Personally I would book in to an auto electrician or RS specialist. As in long run it will be cheaper
edit: it’s probably worth replacing the earth strap on the gearbox. They are a couple of quid, so good practice. Make sure you clean the bolt and the chassis threads when you do
I’d check all this and the earths before firing the parts cannon too much. If the earths are all clean, the white plug of death is spot on and battery is in top condition. Personally I would book in to an auto electrician or RS specialist. As in long run it will be cheaper
edit: it’s probably worth replacing the earth strap on the gearbox. They are a couple of quid, so good practice. Make sure you clean the bolt and the chassis threads when you do
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Rentec will be my go to if I can’t get it sorted with the simple things. Just conscious that I don’t want to pump loads of cash into it. Supposed to be a fun weekend toy 😂
I don’t think you need to buddy, I really don’t. But it’s best to run through some simple stuff as I listed earlier yourself before rolling out the pros. I suspect it’s a cheap repair. Be something simple. Look to the positives, you found it early on in your ownership. You are not stuck somewhere broken down, plus you are on this forum which will have had hundreds of threads with people having similar issues. No getting away from the fact it’s an old Renault so was never going to be super reliably when it comes to electronic elements. Be worth it when you have been through it and have a clean well sorted rare car. Spending the money now will give you a great few years of fun and given what you have and how prices are moving you won’t lose cash long term
Personally I’d try a local auto electrician first with the thought process being, it doesnt need to be a Renault Sport specialist to fix the electrics as I’m sure they are exactly the same as all other Clios (and cars in general) and that a local guy will probably be cheaper and dare I say it, more knowledgeable with this particular issue?
jameswrx
ClioSport Club Member
Also, while you’re at the electrical connector checking have a look at the loom plug on the bulkhead.
Gotta be a dodgy connection somewhere going off the symptoms.
My car was all fine until the weekend and I started having electrical issues (not alarm though), after the non stop rain. Thought it must be something to do with the wet weather as it’s been relentless for couple of weeks.
I went through all the usual areas but there’s also a main loom plug on the bulkhead under the washer bottle. Had a look at mine today and it had a load of water and a couple of slightly manky pins.
I think any clio new to someone I’d recommend to strip the fuses and relays out the engine bay fuse box, take time to clean every pin and the female sockets, same with the white plug in that box (I’ve had issues with this before and thought I’d done a decent enough job but going over the white plug again sorted a reoccurring issue) remove the bulkhead plug and clean that up, remove all the fuses inside the car on dash end and clean all those up (these also oxidise up) and then I’d replace the earth straps.
Even if they’re ok now they’ll prob s**t out in the near future if all this hasn’t been done before.
Gotta be a dodgy connection somewhere going off the symptoms.
My car was all fine until the weekend and I started having electrical issues (not alarm though), after the non stop rain. Thought it must be something to do with the wet weather as it’s been relentless for couple of weeks.
I went through all the usual areas but there’s also a main loom plug on the bulkhead under the washer bottle. Had a look at mine today and it had a load of water and a couple of slightly manky pins.
I think any clio new to someone I’d recommend to strip the fuses and relays out the engine bay fuse box, take time to clean every pin and the female sockets, same with the white plug in that box (I’ve had issues with this before and thought I’d done a decent enough job but going over the white plug again sorted a reoccurring issue) remove the bulkhead plug and clean that up, remove all the fuses inside the car on dash end and clean all those up (these also oxidise up) and then I’d replace the earth straps.
Even if they’re ok now they’ll prob s**t out in the near future if all this hasn’t been done before.
Ok so top dash was off today to check those earth straps.
Fortunately, or unfortunately, they are all sound.
I found a couple questionable bits and bobs though, which seems to be a
Couple of wires spliced into the central lock switch and the window heater Switch. They look to initiate from the loom under the glove box.
I’ve had the SERV light on since changing my steering wheel and thought it could be a steering angle sensor. But am I right in saying they don’t even have those on 172 cups ?
Phoned my auto electrician today as well as I need to get a pro to take a look. His response was not good. He is going to take a look for me next week but he’s pretty sure I’ve already checked everything obvious so it’s going to take a proper deep dive.
Another member on here runs DRS motorsport and is very close to me so going to see if we can get a look maybe at the weekend.
Fortunately, or unfortunately, they are all sound.
I found a couple questionable bits and bobs though, which seems to be a
Couple of wires spliced into the central lock switch and the window heater Switch. They look to initiate from the loom under the glove box.
I’ve had the SERV light on since changing my steering wheel and thought it could be a steering angle sensor. But am I right in saying they don’t even have those on 172 cups ?
Phoned my auto electrician today as well as I need to get a pro to take a look. His response was not good. He is going to take a look for me next week but he’s pretty sure I’ve already checked everything obvious so it’s going to take a proper deep dive.
Another member on here runs DRS motorsport and is very close to me so going to see if we can get a look maybe at the weekend.
Complete drama mate. Wouldn’t mind so much if I’d spent a grand on a fixer upper.
The problem I have with it though is the garage is 200 miles away, I don’t have time / resources to now tow a car down there to inevitably be told to bolt. And then have to go down the route of small claim etc. If it had been a garage that was closed I’d have been back with it the first day I had an issue.
yeecup
ClioSport Club Member
mk8Fiesta ST,172 cup
i understand. may be worth while bringing it to their attention though and seeing if they offer anything towards the cost of getting it repaired. you would like to think any garage worth their salt would help out given they have their reputation to think about, and maybe mention you have a thread up here trying to get help. might make them think.
jameswrx
ClioSport Club Member
I don’t really get the negativity towards the dealer to be honest (reading back through the replies)
It’s a 17 year old car for relatively cheap money and it was fine when they sold it.
Also, maybe they would do something but OP has been trying to sort it himself so can’t really be annoyed at them.
My recent 172 purchase has been a pain of electrical stuff but I’m hoping I’ve sorted it now going back over the engine bay fuse box and finding that bulkhead plug with water in it. Rain has been a nightmare here recently and it had undoubtedly been my issue (straw that broke camels back)
I’d be inclined to have an assistant try to start it while you give things a wiggle/bash. It has to be a dodgy wiring scenario (and I’d certainly look at the bulkhead plug I posted pics of above as AFAIK pretty much everything goes through that)
It’s a 17 year old car for relatively cheap money and it was fine when they sold it.
Also, maybe they would do something but OP has been trying to sort it himself so can’t really be annoyed at them.
My recent 172 purchase has been a pain of electrical stuff but I’m hoping I’ve sorted it now going back over the engine bay fuse box and finding that bulkhead plug with water in it. Rain has been a nightmare here recently and it had undoubtedly been my issue (straw that broke camels back)
I’d be inclined to have an assistant try to start it while you give things a wiggle/bash. It has to be a dodgy wiring scenario (and I’d certainly look at the bulkhead plug I posted pics of above as AFAIK pretty much everything goes through that)
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Did you see the video of the car on the Dealers Facebook page?
Yeah let’s stop bringing the dealer into it too much (I know everyone is just trying to help and it’s appreciated). But I wouldn’t like for this to affect the guys business when there’s no way to know for sure they’ve known anything about it.
According to him he brought it back from wales to Newcastle no drama at all and it went back and forth from Rensport too with absolutely no problems.
I forgot to check that out today mate, I will have a look tomorrow. Without sounding stupid, do you have a photo zoomed out a bit so I can see where it’s actually located ?
That was my initial thoughts but I’ve investigated all that. The ONLY thing I had done before it stopped working properly was change the steering wheel. I disconnected the battery (neg then pos) no sparks etc. I removed the steering wheel air bag and the associated plugs. Then put it all back together and it ran no bother.
It was the next time I went to do the air filter that the car had stopped working properly. I tried to get in and was displaying the symptoms above. I only replaced the filter while I had the bonnet open.
jameswrx
ClioSport Club Member
Maybe it was?
OP bought the car and was happy as far as I can see.
I don’t really see how you can blame the dealer for what’s going wrong now as opposed to how it was running weeks ago. Was he supposed to make a video saying “it’s a nice car but don’t buy it because I looked in my crystal ball it’ll have electrical issues soon”
No dealer wants things to be wrong with a car they sell but you’ve got to have realistic expectations of old cars. And as also mentioned by OP the dealer hasn’t even been brought into this so how can they be slated I don’t know.
jameswrx
ClioSport Club Member
Rain, rain go and f-up another car. Throttle fault
Did a search on this and it’s a bit cloak n dagger for some reason so thought I’d take some pics... So much rain here and has some sudden issues with my 172 at weekend, injection system fault light and limp mode, wont rev past 3k, revs behaving strange etc. I scanned and had supposed pedal...
cliosport.net
You need to...
remove wipers
Remove scuttle (two Clips one either end and remove O/S part first pulling toward you as the Clips go under screen)
Remove wiper assembly (3x10mm bolts and lift bonnet right up for easy removal)
Remove washer bottle (one 10mm bolt)
Then you’ll see the plug. Undo the 10mm and pull the whole thing toward you.
Sounds like a faff but it takes 5 mins. It’s worth a look.
I’d personally make sure the fuse box plug is perfect too. Is it pushed back down into it’s recess at the bottom that keeps the plug together?
That was my initial thoughts but I’ve investigated all that. The ONLY thing I had done before it stopped working properly was change the steering wheel. I disconnected the battery (neg then pos) no sparks etc. I removed the steering wheel air bag and the associated plugs. Then put it all back together and it ran no bother.
It was the next time I went to do the air filter that the car had stopped working properly. I tried to get in and was displaying the symptoms above. I only replaced the filter while I had the bonnet open.
Got my code reader delivered today. Only had 5 mins to read the codes, haven’t looked into them or tried anything with them yet. Codes that show are -
DF030 Fan Unit high speed circuit
DF110 Destructive misfire OBD fault
DF071 drivers front airbag 2, short circuit
DF072 drivers front airbag 1, short circuit
DF091 airbag locking switch circuit, open circuit or short circuit to +12v
DF184 passenger side front buckle pretension circuit open circuit
DF067 ring > decoder connection, no connection with key or transponder key
DF105 engine immobiliser lamp circuit, short circuit to earth
DF130 incorrect instrument panel configuration
DF119 windscreen wiper parked position
DF176 airbag missing multiplexed information
DF128 vehicle speed not available
DF030 Fan Unit high speed circuit
DF110 Destructive misfire OBD fault
DF071 drivers front airbag 2, short circuit
DF072 drivers front airbag 1, short circuit
DF091 airbag locking switch circuit, open circuit or short circuit to +12v
DF184 passenger side front buckle pretension circuit open circuit
DF067 ring > decoder connection, no connection with key or transponder key
DF105 engine immobiliser lamp circuit, short circuit to earth
DF130 incorrect instrument panel configuration
DF119 windscreen wiper parked position
DF176 airbag missing multiplexed information
DF128 vehicle speed not available
That does read like the UCH is not happy!
David Stuart
ClioSport Club Member
Hi Aaron. Just found your thread.
Glad it looks like we got to the bottom of it and a new UCH should sort it out.
Car running again. Temporarily with a 182 ECU, UCH and key. I’ll be sourcing a 172 cup ECU, UCH and key tomorrow fingers crossed.
Looks a clean car otherwise. [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Glad it looks like we got to the bottom of it and a new UCH should sort it out.
Car running again. Temporarily with a 182 ECU, UCH and key. I’ll be sourcing a 172 cup ECU, UCH and key tomorrow fingers crossed.
Looks a clean car otherwise. [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Has he fixed it then?
David Stuart
ClioSport Club Member
Yeah the car is running and everything working as it should except the alarm which is going off constantly.
I’ll get the correct UCH / ECU for the cup then tackle the alarm. But good progress.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I decided to stop pissing about with it myself and take it to the professionals! @David Stuart has had the car at the unit over the weekend. Done some wire tracing and didn’t see anything of note.
ECU/UCH switched out with a 182 one and it’s all running (albeit with lights on the dash obviously). So hoping to source a 172 cup setup today.
Believe David has also swapped out the battery earth as it’s a bit worse for wear.
Hopefully this is all wrapped up this week and I can get back to the actual plans of enjoying the car 😂
ECU/UCH switched out with a 182 one and it’s all running (albeit with lights on the dash obviously). So hoping to source a 172 cup setup today.
Believe David has also swapped out the battery earth as it’s a bit worse for wear.
Hopefully this is all wrapped up this week and I can get back to the actual plans of enjoying the car 😂
