Real world cost of boost

[Cupman29]

Others things to look at getting are fuel pump, fpr, ph1 fuel sender, fuel lines, turbo map sensor, oil cooler, lots of heat shielding, air filter, gauges and battery relocation kit. This little lot if you don't have any of it will come to about £1k depending on spec and if bought new or not.

All in, my turbo build has cost me over £4k including the engine and ecu. I've bought a gt2860rs to replace the megane td04 which has put the cost up again but the megane parts are being sold on to recoup some of the outlay.

 

[danh90]

Tbh I'm not happy with how mine drives at low revs quite Crap and lumpy actually I imagine it'll be no problem at all on track just when pottering at low revs!

 

[Chip-mk1]

I suspect a lot of mapping hours are only way to sort that. Even mine isn't perfect under 2k yet and I've spent a while on it already.

 

[danh90]

Yeah that's basically the same as mine under 2k it's poor.. Ill drop it off with scoff when I'm up there again I'm sure hell sort it..

 

[Cup_Phil]

so what your saying is his budget should be £6k as he would need those things too

I don't need better brakes - got 4 pots. I don't need better suspension - got brand new KW V2's on there, all polybushed etc...
The only thing I think I will "need" is a diff - which I will buy around christmas time when the cup engine comes out.
Send the gearbox off for a rebuild with a diff and then bolt it onto the turbo lump
More like £1300 than £3k

Others things to look at getting are fuel pump, fpr, ph1 fuel sender, fuel lines, turbo map sensor, oil cooler, lots of heat shielding, air filter, gauges and battery relocation kit. This little lot if you don't have any of it will come to about £1k depending on spec and if bought new or not.

All in, my turbo build has cost me over £4k including the engine and ecu. I've bought a gt2860rs to replace the megane td04 which has put the cost up again but the megane parts are being sold on to recoup some of the outlay.

Battery is already relocated, got air filter, engine bay is already nimbus heat shielded, got oil pressure and temperature gauge, wideband lambda.
I would like a boost gauge. Lot of people just use the standard fuel lines - what's the purpose of the ph1 fuel sender and fuel lines and fuel pump?

 

[Laine_16v]

Mines a bit awkward at 2k aswell..... lol

 

[Cupman29]

If you get an uprated fuel pump, fpr and return line you will have a more consistant fuel supply which is better for boost. You can do it without for a low boost conversion but for high boost I wouldn't. The standard fuel setup would not be up to the job IMO and you would not want to run lean when on boost.

You will need to shield the brake master cylinder too with your nimbus.

 

[BIGASH]

In fact, im going to prove it. BigAsh is coming down to mine for a day or two before llandow and he has never done any form of mapping in his life, I will wipe the entire boost request table from my ECU, and when I see you wednesday evening, and at llandow on thursday, I will be driving it with the boost control table written by him tuesday night.

Im sure he will be up for that

Haha sounds difficult to me but I'm certainly up for trying it (As long as it won't blow your engine up)

 

[batesey]

Phil, ive got a ph1 sender with pump and a ktec map sensor for sale

 

[Dan@SJM]

Haha sounds difficult to me but I'm certainly up for trying it (As long as it won't blow your engine up)

Just do 255.0 across the whole range

 

[Jay Payne]

I don't need better brakes - got 4 pots. I don't need better suspension - got brand new KW V2's on there, all polybushed etc...
The only thing I think I will "need" is a diff - which I will buy around christmas time when the cup engine comes out.
Send the gearbox off for a rebuild with a diff and then bolt it onto the turbo lump
More like £1300 than £3k

i didnt mention brakes at all and didnt mean to buy new suspesnion, just springs as you said you would trailer everywhere so it can be less compromised if its not for use on the road. (for example the race car has over 700lb springs on it)

But then i read you want to hoon about the moors so my 'thought' was invalid

 

[Cup_Phil]

If you get an uprated fuel pump, fpr and return line you will have a more consistant fuel supply which is better for boost. You can do it without for a low boost conversion but for high boost I wouldn't. The standard fuel setup would not be up to the job IMO and you would not want to run lean when on boost.

You will need to shield the brake master cylinder too with your nimbus.

Yeah it already does as the fluid in the reservoir was getting way too hot at Donington lol

I can understand that - but I only want low boost
I'm building a swirl pot setup in the spare wheel well this year anyway just to be safe when running sticky tyres and cornering hard. Hopefully shouldn't have any issues.

What's the deal with the ph1 sender and pump? - are they uprated over the ph2 stuff?

Phil, ive got a ph1 sender with pump and a ktec map sensor for sale

Still not sure why I'd need one mate lol

i didnt mention brakes at all and didnt mean to buy new suspesnion, just springs as you said you would trailer everywhere so it can be less compromised if its not for use on the road. (for example the race car has over 700lb springs on it)

But then i read you want to hoon about the moors so my 'thought' was invalid

No that's fair enough mate. I do change my mind a fair bit.
I took it off the road and had no intention of ever putting it back on, was going to just be a track car. But I miss it too much

 

[BIGASH]

Just do 255.0 across the whole range

Haha already well over my head Dan lol

 

[d19wood]

Hi Cup_Phil sorry if this is crashin your thread a bit but I am fitting a low pressure kit next week and thought a few of the members posting on here might be able to answer a question for me/us???

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I too want to keep standard internals for now but have a gen90 ecu I'm going to have the set up mapped on, can anybody tell me if it would be a worth while expense to lower the CR with a thicker MLS head gasket at this stage to help avoid knock and aid mapping or just wait until it gets forged next year or so?

 

[Laine_16v]

Im using stock compression safely at 250bhp.

 

[MG cup]

Depends what you want power wise just now, personally I would go low boost just now untill your bored of the power and then go balls to the wall next year when you forge it.

 

[d19wood]

Sounds good guys just don't want to drive away after a mapping session at 210bhp :banghead:

Cheers.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Decompressing it will increase the amount of boost you can run without knock. But the problem is the rods. 300lbft ish and they bend.

 

[d19wood]

Thanks Chip-mk1, with OE internals on the clio do you know if it would be better to go to the way out to the 4 layer 1.6 mm end of the scale or stay conservative with .75mm Cometic??

 

[Chip-mk1]

It is application specific. It totally depends on the rest of your spec and what you use it for.

One key advantage though, lower cr is going to mean lower egt on a turbo f4r. And that is useful.

 

[Cupman29]

What's the deal with the ph1 sender and pump? - are they uprated over the ph2 stuff?

Ph1 sender allows a return to the tank which is needed to get the best out of a fpr. The pump is no better but I replaced mine with a walbro 225lph pump.

 

[d19wood]

That I had not considered, thanks again.

 

[Cupman29]

You will need a ph1 sender for a swirl pot set up too as that will have a return to tank line as well.

 

[Scoff]

Yeah that's basically the same as mine under 2k it's poor.. Ill drop it off with scoff when I'm up there again I'm sure hell sort it..

Did you change that intermittent lambda sensor Dan ? It will cause some odd running problems. Try unplugging the sensor and test driving.

 

[danh90]

Did you change that intermittent lambda sensor Dan ? It will cause some odd running problems. Try unplugging the sensor and test driving.

Alright mate

I haven't no not yet will get a new one on this week see if that makes any difference.. What should happen when unplugged and test drive?

 

[Scoff]

Alright mate

I haven't no not yet will get a new one on this week see if that makes any difference.. What should happen when unplugged and test drive?

It will drive fine without it Dan. When the 02 sensor misreports it causes the ECU to trim incorrectly. Unplugging means the ECU will ignore it.