Running in fresh build engine

[scotty2hotty81]

So the time has come to bed in my freshly built f4r turbo, question is do I run any boost? I'm aware of the bedding in durations, mineral oil etc but do I run any boost and how much and at which point in the bedding in process?

Oh and Fred, sorry I can't bring myself to kick the living s#&t out of it once upto temp lol

 

[Jaff.]

I wouldn't for the first few miles, then gradually dial some in.

i ran my f7r turbo in with no turbo, yet to drive it with a turbo lol

 

[Dan@SJM]

I was running mine in this week. Asda's oil, varied load up to 4.5 k up to 3/4 throttle, so was seeing .1-0.3Bar of boost. lots of over run. 25 miles, drop the oil, new decent oil in, and I've been out mapping it this evening inc WOT.

 

[scotty2hotty81]

Jaff- I was thinking similar, didn't want to put any boost through for the initial 400miles

dan- lol, you don't mess around!

 

[ND04]

Paul set my boost to 0.3 bar for the first 500 mile when mine was built.

 

[Gray]

Also wanting to know this when I start building my forged r26 engine!

 

[Dan519]

you can run in an engine (bed in the rings) in an hour or so on the dyno. Nothing more is needed apart from oil changes to flush out assembly greases and swarf, and a basic spanner check

 

[Luke.]

Flat out iirc

 

[Andyrg@ ClioTurbo]

So many different ways or personal opinions.

Mine.

Mineral. Start get to temp. Drop.

Change filter and oil.

Mineral drive 50 miles with loads od vacume and small boosr to 4500rpm... no WOT.

Drop oil for semi run for 400 miles. More throttle and 5800 rpm vacume

Drop and them correct oil away u go.


Sounds like a ***** on but I want my engines to last and not use oil

 

[Chip-mk1]

So many different ways or personal opinions.

Mine.

Mineral. Start get to temp. Drop.

Change filter and oil.

Mineral drive 50 miles with loads od vacume and small boosr to 4500rpm... no WOT.

Drop oil for semi run for 400 miles. More throttle and 5800 rpm vacume

Drop and them correct oil away u go.


Sounds like a ***** on but I want my engines to last and not use oil

Thats what I do as well, varied road through the whole process and start with less boost to give the rings a chance to bed in, if you force too much boost into them too early on then you risk scorching the rings.

 

[Cupman29]

What about running in with no boost but doing everything else?

 

[Chip-mk1]

What about running in with no boost but doing everything else?

Main thing is to give it varied load.

 

[Fred@BTM]

just warm it up and drop it off to me for 30min

 

[scotty2hotty81]

just warm it up and drop it off to me for 30min

Lol, after everything I've done to it and how long its taken me I couldn't watch you, thats for sure! I'd wince like a little girl.

 

[SharkyUK]

just warm it up and drop it off to me for 30min

Feel free to run mine in, Fred... I think. :race:It's only fair I reckon!

 

[WilkyWay]

So many different ways or personal opinions.

Mine.

Mineral. Start get to temp. Drop.

Change filter and oil.

Mineral drive 50 miles with loads od vacume and small boosr to 4500rpm... no WOT.

Drop oil for semi run for 400 miles. More throttle and 5800 rpm vacume

Drop and them correct oil away u go.


Sounds like a ***** on but I want my engines to last and not use oil

Exactly this. So you put the engine under a bit of load but not 100% and get loads of different heat cycles through it to help bed the rings in properly.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Exactly this. So you put the engine under a bit of load but not 100% and get loads of different heat cycles through it to help bed the rings in properly.

Indeed, if you want long ring life its important not to force too much hot air pass them before they are sealing well.

Trouble is a lot of people read about modern motorbikes with totally different honing techniques and think it applies to a car done with something like a basic flexhone as well.