Tapping/Knocking noise- 172 cup

[j4mes-c]

For the past few weeks I've been aware my driveshaft brace on the offside front has been loose and rattling against the block. On Friday when I was driving I started getting a knocking noise from under my feet kind of area. So I replaced the bolts in the brace with 2 normal M10 bolts and tightened up. But the knocking remains. Tried and checked a few things over the weekend and the symptoms I've found are:

*Only after the cars been driven a while (20-30mins)
*Not as loud as it was when the brace was loose
*Rhythmic "tap tap tap"
*Only on slight throttle/slight steering (Like 30mph in 4th kind of throttle. Not full lock that I've noticed but seems to happen steering left or right)
*Stops when you dip the clutch
*Was accompanied by a squeaking heard outside yesterday.

CV joint was suggested and I'm not sure as I use full lock regularly and never noticed any knocking or noises.

I'm assuming it's connected to the driveshaft as it's not near the gearbox area and engine seems unaffected.

 

[Ads29]

Sounds like it could be the exhaust manifold tapping against the subframe, out of interest how old is the dogbone/engine and gearbox mounts?

 

[j4mes-c]

Engine mounts were replaced a month to 6weeks ago with standard FEBI ones. Dogbone seemed okay at the time. I got a quick video of it I'll upload

 

[j4mes-c]

My mechanic suggested it's just the carbon canister clicking. Possible?

 

[Ads29]

I can't get the video to play unfortunately but you'll be surprised just how much movement there is even if the dogbone looked ok, personally I'd never but a standard one again. I swapped mine out for an evol race dogbone mount, which whilst it is extremely harsh and vibrates like mad it has made things 1000's of times better (track car only though). I wouldn't suggest buying the same its your daily but I would say try something more than the standard renault design, maybe purple powerflex inserts for example and see how you get on

 

[GrahamS]

check wheel bearings, loose wheels and if the driveshafts have any play up and down as a tripod may have gone

 

[j4mes-c]

I'm thinking it's the driveshaft as I've had the torque brace secured and the knocking remains but stops when dipping clutch. The squeaking that happens too stops when steering left slightly.
However, it looks like my hubs have had abs sensors at some time (172 cup) so not sure what driveshaft I have on the car. Any way to tell?

 

[Rone]

For the past few weeks I've been aware my driveshaft brace on the offside front has been loose and rattling against the block. On Friday when I was driving I started getting a knocking noise from under my feet kind of area. So I replaced the bolts in the brace with 2 normal M10 bolts and tightened up. But the knocking remains. Tried and checked a few things over the weekend and the symptoms I've found are:

*Only after the cars been driven a while (20-30mins)
*Not as loud as it was when the brace was loose
*Rhythmic "tap tap tap"
*Only on slight throttle/slight steering (Like 30mph in 4th kind of throttle. Not full lock that I've noticed but seems to happen steering left or right)
*Stops when you dip the clutch
*Was accompanied by a squeaking heard outside yesterday.

CV joint was suggested and I'm not sure as I use full lock regularly and never noticed any knocking or noises.

I'm assuming it's connected to the driveshaft as it's not near the gearbox area and engine seems unaffected.

Those symptoms match perfectly to an INNER CV joint lubrication failure.
Inner CV joint is senseless to maximum steering lock. Steering lock knock is used to diagnose outer CV joint, it does not work for the inner CV joint.

You can probably avoid replacing the drive shaft by just re-lubricating the inner CV joint. Try to loosen the rubber cover and slide it aside and add a liberate amount of good grade bearing grease. The joint is running dry at the moment. It starts to malfunction after 30 minutes because the friction heats it up and causes the joint to stick.

 

[j4mes-c]

FINAL UPDATE (RESOLVED)-

Turns out it was the torque brace. The garage said that the bolts were too short and weren't securing it properly in the right position so the driveshaft was moving with the stiffened suspension and rough surface on the road and causing the brace to knock on the engine block. Dip the clutch and the twisting force on the shaft went away stopping the knocking. Anyway, all 3 bolts replaced with correct sized ones by a garage with washers to secure. No noises or anything for 2 days is all I'm bothered about