Nafoff
ClioSport Club Member
i am aware yes daniel, had the discussion many a time with my painter mate,
however satin lacquer is still temperamental to look after
however satin lacquer is still temperamental to look after
Don't get arsey, four eyes. I'm only trying to help.
I will love you always, you know this. x
What are those machined things?? I'm confused.
What are those machined things?? I'm confused.
well still trying to decide on a colour,
however in the meantime i have been trying to sort these out, thanks to Kenny for the idea, frenchthing for the drawings and a good mate for machining them up,
this will now allow me to go at the car and make it look like a piece of swiss cheese, but keep the strength in the selected panels, good times.
Very nice Neil! Bit neater than the ones I knocked up on nightshift lol
I'm guessing that was a cnc lathe that made them? either that or a very very good tuner!
As frenchthing says smear them with grease, i'd put it on the mating faces too, just means you need to make sure you get all that off before you put paint near the panels. Mine got gauled up doing the front crossmember but the still work ok, good enough for what they need to do.
I'd avoid Satin tbh mate, it'll look dated and tired very quickly imo and as you say be a f**king nuisance to take care of compared to a "normal" finish.
Bloody hell Neil
Them swagers are awesome.
Bit cheeky i know but after you've finished with them are they available for rent or to buy? What sizes are they?
i wish i had the capability to do that, but a mate was very kind to do these for me.....
so where it says 40mm flare tool, would the hole saw for that hole have to be 40mm? do you see where i am coming from?...lol. trying to figure what hole saws i need now
How about macadamia or Umber if you want something muted, you should be able to find them given your current job
Yeah, thats it, nothing more to it. If you measure the parallel part before the taper, that will be 40mm give or take any clearance designed into them. I made mine pretty much bang on the desired size, ie 30,25&20 Most hole saws will make a hole slightly bigger than their marked size just due to them moving around a little when getting started. You need to lean on them hard enough to stop them wandering but dont over do it.
Also, once you've cut a hole you'll probably want to file off any ragged edges so that will take it out a fraction more.
I think it's been said already but invest in decent hole saws, starret etc.
the 3 i drew up for you were to suit a 20, 30 and 40mm holesaw fella.....
if you get stuck finding them let me know and i`ll get you some prices through work and post them over....
http://www.tool-wise.com/product_catalogue/morse_bi_metal_hole_saws/index.html
and dont forget you`ll need an arbor, actually, you`ll need 2, a small 1 for the 20 and 30mm holesaw and a biggun for the 40mm one...
http://www.tool-wise.com/product_categories/product/arbors_accessories/arbors/index.html
such a great project .........but change topmounts please ....
You finished it yet sweetie? x
VX Technical Grey is a sweet colour, there is also a really dark blue but I can't recall the name I'll have a look tomorrow when I'm back in work.
Gulf racing- orange and duck egg blue.....
Epic project this mate.
Please dont choose that colour though.
And now........
Its time.......
To perforate!!!!!!!
Just occured to me, the swagers you've got are quite deep/long, which is a good from the perspective that they will centralise and give a nice even flare but you might struggle to get them in certain places.
When I did the front crossmember i only just managed to roll the back half of the swager down the gap and then get the bolt/nut on, footery as fook!