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The everlasting ph1 ITB Build **GREEN-BUILD STARTS AT PAGE 100**



Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
Don't get arsey, four eyes. I'm only trying to help.

appreciated,
i read it in Daniel (sarcastic humor style tbh) reply, hence my retort, had a pretty sh*tty day, and it looks like the week is set to be one also,
(not aimed at you), but wishing i never posted on here now, just an effort going through peoples sarcastic remarks and pointless posts,
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
well still trying to decide on a colour,

however in the meantime i have been trying to sort these out, thanks to Kenny for the idea, frenchthing for the drawings and a good mate for machining them up,
this will now allow me to go at the car and make it look like a piece of swiss cheese, but keep the strength in the selected panels, good times.

photo1-1.jpg

photo2-1.jpg
 
Bloody hell!!! They turned out looking nice!!!

Plenty of copper slip on the threads mate.. glad the drawings made sense..

When it comes to the hole saws.. we only use morse or starrett branded ones.. cheap ones go dull very quick. plenty of cutting oil and go slow and good ones will swiss cheese your car in no time!!!!
 

Bluebeard

ClioSport Moderator
  Whichever has fuel
Got a battery powered buzz gun?? Trying to do those with a ratchet will take you days! lol.
 
  Audi A6 & 172 Cup
well still trying to decide on a colour,

however in the meantime i have been trying to sort these out, thanks to Kenny for the idea, frenchthing for the drawings and a good mate for machining them up,
this will now allow me to go at the car and make it look like a piece of swiss cheese, but keep the strength in the selected panels, good times.

photo1-1.jpg

photo2-1.jpg

Very nice Neil! Bit neater than the ones I knocked up on nightshift lol
I'm guessing that was a cnc lathe that made them? either that or a very very good tuner!

As frenchthing says smear them with grease, i'd put it on the mating faces too, just means you need to make sure you get all that off before you put paint near the panels. Mine got gauled up doing the front crossmember but the still work ok, good enough for what they need to do.
 
I'd avoid Satin tbh mate, it'll look dated and tired very quickly imo and as you say be a f**king nuisance to take care of compared to a "normal" finish.
 
  M3, Cup racer'd 182
Bloody hell Neil
Them swagers are awesome.

Bit cheeky i know but after you've finished with them are they available for rent or to buy? What sizes are they?
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
Very nice Neil! Bit neater than the ones I knocked up on nightshift lol
I'm guessing that was a cnc lathe that made them? either that or a very very good tuner!

As frenchthing says smear them with grease, i'd put it on the mating faces too, just means you need to make sure you get all that off before you put paint near the panels. Mine got gauled up doing the front crossmember but the still work ok, good enough for what they need to do.

i wish i had the capability to do that, but a mate was very kind to do these for me.....
so where it says 40mm flare tool, would the hole saw for that hole have to be 40mm? do you see where i am coming from?...lol. trying to figure what hole saws i need now

I'd avoid Satin tbh mate, it'll look dated and tired very quickly imo and as you say be a f**king nuisance to take care of compared to a "normal" finish.

i think i am going to end up going back to what i very first thought about... a dark metallic grey

Bloody hell Neil
Them swagers are awesome.

Bit cheeky i know but after you've finished with them are they available for rent or to buy? What sizes are they?

will see how they fair after my abuse first...lol
 
Have you got any kind of vision of how you want it to look. Metallic colours especially muted seem at odds to the stripped out track car nature of the build. You looking to make it take a certain route or vibe or just looking for a colour you like and sack the possibly split personality outcome of a more grown up colour on a stripped out car?
 
  Evo 5 RS
I chose the porsche shade because it's quite flat and not at all 'shiney'

In other words it looks awesome but it's going to get wrecked and will still look awesome lol
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
looking for a colour i like.... f*ck what colours track cars are MEANT to be painted...lol
as said previously my painter mate wants to paint it in proper race livery still.... i was unsure on it, with it still being initially road legal.

maybe dark metallic grey with some kind of satin black / grey and then yellow hints.

aslong as you look after it then the paint should be ok (non satin).... i appreciate it may get scraped etc though
 
  Audi A6 & 172 Cup
i wish i had the capability to do that, but a mate was very kind to do these for me.....
so where it says 40mm flare tool, would the hole saw for that hole have to be 40mm? do you see where i am coming from?...lol. trying to figure what hole saws i need now

Yeah, thats it, nothing more to it. If you measure the parallel part before the taper, that will be 40mm give or take any clearance designed into them. I made mine pretty much bang on the desired size, ie 30,25&20 Most hole saws will make a hole slightly bigger than their marked size just due to them moving around a little when getting started. You need to lean on them hard enough to stop them wandering but dont over do it.
Also, once you've cut a hole you'll probably want to file off any ragged edges so that will take it out a fraction more.
I think it's been said already but invest in decent hole saws, starret etc.
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
How about macadamia or Umber if you want something muted, you should be able to find them given your current job ;)

hmmm... not keen on Macadamia but Umber metallic is a very good shout mate, got me thinking now.

Yeah, thats it, nothing more to it. If you measure the parallel part before the taper, that will be 40mm give or take any clearance designed into them. I made mine pretty much bang on the desired size, ie 30,25&20 Most hole saws will make a hole slightly bigger than their marked size just due to them moving around a little when getting started. You need to lean on them hard enough to stop them wandering but dont over do it.
Also, once you've cut a hole you'll probably want to file off any ragged edges so that will take it out a fraction more.
I think it's been said already but invest in decent hole saws, starret etc.

the 3 i drew up for you were to suit a 20, 30 and 40mm holesaw fella.....
if you get stuck finding them let me know and i`ll get you some prices through work and post them over....
http://www.tool-wise.com/product_catalogue/morse_bi_metal_hole_saws/index.html

and dont forget you`ll need an arbor, actually, you`ll need 2, a small 1 for the 20 and 30mm holesaw and a biggun for the 40mm one...
http://www.tool-wise.com/product_categories/product/arbors_accessories/arbors/index.html

cheers for the info guys, going to get on this asap, may be in-touch chap

such a great project .........but change topmounts please ....

whys that?
apart from loosening originally they have been very very good, probably won't change them until i look at betterer suspension
 
  Clio 172
VX Technical Grey is a sweet colour, there is also a really dark blue but I can't recall the name I'll have a look tomorrow when I'm back in work.
 
  Clio Rs ph1/182 cup
Strut tower ....... But I was using an official clio cup suspension :)

Now it's a good moment to reinforce all the car ..... Just a bit of welding and some metal ....
I git a mate that reinforced his saxo( specially under the gearshit tunnel) and at high speeds we noticed a huge improvement...... Ok that the saxo is made of paper but also gr.n clios are tightened ..... For example they have a circular welding on the strut towers ...
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
VX Technical Grey is a sweet colour, there is also a really dark blue but I can't recall the name I'll have a look tomorrow when I'm back in work.

any luck with this mate?

Gulf racing- orange and duck egg blue.....

that won't compliment the yellow already part of the car sadly.....

however i am pretty keen on an earlier suggestion,

photo1-2.png

photo2-2.png


oh, and made an order yesterday... should do the job along with the swagers

photo3-1.jpg
 
  Audi A6 & 172 Cup
Just occured to me, the swagers you've got are quite deep/long, which is a good from the perspective that they will centralise and give a nice even flare but you might struggle to get them in certain places.
When I did the front crossmember i only just managed to roll the back half of the swager down the gap and then get the bolt/nut on, footery as fook!
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
And now........

Its time.......

To perforate!!!!!!!

i can't wait tbh....

Just occured to me, the swagers you've got are quite deep/long, which is a good from the perspective that they will centralise and give a nice even flare but you might struggle to get them in certain places.
When I did the front crossmember i only just managed to roll the back half of the swager down the gap and then get the bolt/nut on, footery as fook!

it's like you read my mind, ha, i was literally only coming on here now to pm you asking how you did the front crossmember.
I was looking at the swagers and thinking "there is no way he slotted one part inside the crossmember".... but you did,

so how did you hold the bolt /nut that was inside the crossmember? or is your bolt welded on at that end of the swager?


I am going down to the car today (although not to hole/swage) so will be trialing fitment etc then.
 


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