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The story of my ZR **Warning - Rover Content** PIC HEAVY

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Not sure if that coolant in cyl 1 is due to the HGF or just from moving the head.


Haven't dropped the sump nor cleaned the coke off the liners to know which gasket I need, lost all interest. Snapped a tube off the inlet manifold by the Throttle Body, and snapped my rear cam cover too FFS. Plastic sucks at staying in one piece when it's cold. Going to change the 'stat whilst it's so easy to get at ATM too. More expense lol.
 
Last 1800 Kseries HG I did, the block was fucked because the liners had risen. Apparently its very common on the 1800, liners rise when the HG goes! Make sure you check them!
 
Last 1800 Kseries HG I did, the block was f**ked because the liners had risen. Apparently its very common on the 1800, liners rise when the HG goes! Make sure you check them!

They're supposed to be higher than the block within a certain tolerance. What you don't want is them sinking. Might double check the tolerances though now you've said that.
Anyway, finally got a spare few minutes to check the liner heights, I need an MLS gasket. Missed the Xparts closing time by minutes though, so looks like I won't get the kit for the weekend :(
 
So, I suppose I should post my slow and unmotivated progress. It's good I don't need the car really, means I can plod along at my own pace rather than rush around like I do all week.

I got this back from the machine shop yesterday, I love freshly skimmed alloy...
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I'm still waiting on my MLS gasket kit, it was supposed to arrive today but hasn't.

Today I've stripped the cylinder head down totally except from the valve stem oil seals. I need to open up the inlet ports to make use of my VVC manifold, and clean the head down in a solvent bath and rebuild it all up, and freshly lap the valves.
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Then I decided to swap the thermostat, the old one is the one covered in purple wax. I'm glad I decided to change it now, rather than when everything is back together and it fails. What a stupid place for a thermostat though, nice one whoever decided to put it there.
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Then I decided to clean up the mating face of the block, then clean out the coolant around the liners.
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And then the last job of today, I decided to put the new water pump on.
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Nice one James, join the forum.

Back in from the cold to warm up. Spent an hour or so building up my VVC manifold after taking the plastic one apart. Also done my rig up race battery, bought from Burp.

Never received a gasket for between the 2 halves, so I've used hylomar. It's only air at this stage and the faces seem nice and smooth, so it'll seal fine.
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Manifold pretty much built up.
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Shot of the blank/fuel return.
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The battery. I decided not to rewire the battery connectors in the end with a view to making it as easy as possible to return to a normal battery come sell up time. Held in with zip ties for that professional look ;)
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Looks nice. I've had 2 MG's. MK2 ZR and a TF. Loved them!! The only problem i had was an alternator on the TF.
 
when i changed the head gasket on the 105+ k series for my mini i was told by the engineering company that the liners are supposed to be 1mm of the block. apparently they are only tend to move if some numpty lets it really overheat. looks like your doing a good and thorough job on it, keep it going
 
when i changed the head gasket on the 105+ k series for my mini i was told by the engineering company that the liners are supposed to be 1mm of the block. apparently they are only tend to move if some numpty lets it really overheat. looks like your doing a good and thorough job on it, keep it going

1mm is 40thou! Do you mean 0.1mm? Which is 4thou.

R20 CWH, cheers matey.

Rest of today's progress...

I started off wanting to open up the inlet ports for the VVC manifold. Marked up to the gasket as it matches the inlet bang on. Started opening one up and raped all my dremel bits lol. Going to need a couple of decent small files to make the dremel's life easier.
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Then I decided to pull the valve stem seals out, which I somehow managed to do without ruining the valve guides.
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Next & Final Task was to drop the sump. I refitted the mount near the cambelt, and spent ages towing my balls off removing the lower mount. Then realised I had to split the manifold and cat, which luckily came apart no problem (in fact it was so easy I was shocked) thanks to copious amounts of nickel anti-seize I applied when I fitted the manifold. Then I dropped the sump, and removed the oil pump filter/inlet pipe and oil ladder.
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Tomorrow should see the arrival of the MLS Gasket Set. I've also got to get a valve grinding stick, an 1/2" to 3/8" Socket Adaptor, and some files.
 
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I had been talking to Adrian of AAautosport, he gave me some advice that the 1.8 liners can crack, so I should check it. Luckily I found no evidence of cracking liners.

2 days ago, I filed the step out on the inlet ports. I would have preferred to do a better job but time wasn't on my side. I did nothing after this, I was waiting for my stepdad to clean the head in a solvent bath.
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Today has been a day of steady progress. Cleaned out the header tank with a mixture of soapy water & solvent degreaser.
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Then I fitted the shiny new oil ladder and oil pump feed.
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Also fitted the sump, then exhaust manifold and oil filter.
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Just waiting for the head back to rebuild that and crack on.
 
I started this morning rebuilding the head. I lapped one valve in at a time using coarse then fine lapping paste to get a nice matt grey finish on the seats. Then I cleaned it all up, fitted a valve stem oil seal, and built up valvetrain by putting the springs, spring caps and collets in. The collets were a bit fiddly, but I soon found a technique that worked for me.
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With that built, I put the inlet manifold onto the cylinder head before putting it onto the block, to make my life easier. I then put the MLS head gasket & head saver shim onto the block. Then sat the cylinder head on top of it, and fitted the head bolts. Following the sequence I did them up to 20Nm, then 4 runs of 90 degree turns.
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I fitted the tappets & follower assemblies, then the camshafts and exhaust manifold. Also fitted a few hoses/connectors etc.
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Then the final thing I did was fit the throttle body.
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Fair play man, when I had my rover I was going to take it to AA autosport if I got hgf, but you've done a hell of a lot yourself, effort.
 
It wasn't first time, so it's probably not sealing properly after flipping it and being compressed twice. Thought I might be lucky, should have known better, especially as I have no luck.
Also wish a f**king diagram came with it TBH, especially with the silly shim it comes with too.
 
As per usual, it's not working properly. All together, seems to hold coolant too. Won't idle though because of what you can see below.

I need ideas on how to make this...
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Seal around this...
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The hole melted when the manifold was powdercoated, and as such won't seal the usual way the manifolds seal. I've tried silicone sealant but it's ****, isn't man enough to do it.

Any more ideas, as currently I have 2 idle options, 0 RPM or 2000 RPM.
 
Try sticking some washer pipe connectors in there. And see if you can get a pressure fit? Either that or blank it and drill a new hole.
 
How old is it, is it eligible for scrappage??

51. So yeah, but I don't want to buy a brand spanking car, and can't afford a brand spanking car. I'm still looking at getting a GT-4 or 200SX with what pittance we'll now be getting off Outage in Summer.

Marco, not sure that'll work, plus I don't think drilling a new hole will help.
 
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