ValverInBits
Thought I'd put up a thread and show people what I've been doing with my MK1 over the past few weeks.
a little over a year ago, I'd recently changed from a MK1 Clio 1.8 16v to a Ph2172. I was unhappy with the way the 172 handled. The extra power was great, but I thought the ultimate grip was a total let down compared to my Valver.
A mate suggested that I consider a turbo'd valver. I've never liked the idea that much, partly as I don't trust the gearboxes handling the power.
So eventually I decided I liked the idea of a VAG 1.8T 20v in a MK1.
Theres loads of advantages to the 20v - range of tuning parts, stronger gear box with a tighter shift, better designed engine mounts, oil and water feeds already in place for turbo, not to mention the creamy smooth torque curves most 20v setups create.
Disadvantages of the 20v idea:
Need to fabricate engine mounts
Cannot run OEM ECU without clocks, keys, key barrell, etc etc from original car - Qpeng might solve that but still quite costly.
Need to fab driveshafts
Need to chop and reweld subframe
It's not a cheap option, but then the alternatives arent either
Previous 20v Clios
The first one done was the clio TT by MATTBLACK. The first 20v MK1 was done by flan, who also helped adams_16v with his. So just to clarify.....it's not my idea! A lot of what I've done is a copy of flan's project.
First thing I did after some saving was buy a valver. I really wanted a white one, and I also fancied a 1992. That way when it came to MOT time, I wouldn't need a cat and the emissions test should be easy.
Picked up this from gloucester last year.
Next to my 172
Yes it's got yellow fog lights, and yes, I love em
The car isnt mint. The sills are fairly bad, and there is a section around the O/S rear window that will need a chop and weld due to rust. The arches are clean though. Don't worry, that ariel is coming off. Oh and the turbines are fooking MINT.
20v engine codes
The 1.8T 20v came in soooo many cars. Octavias, TTs, polo, golf, A3, A4, A6, sharan, passat, even the new A5s have a direct injection version of the 20v. There are LOADS of engine codes (like 20+). The best of the bunch IMO is the "AGU" code fitted to early Golf IV GTIs and A3s. It gets a big valve head, larger 20mm gudgeon pins, throttle body pickup on the other side, cable throttle, and a forged crank. So although only 150bhp from factory, it's one of the stronger ones.
I spent a while looking for my AGU, but in the end found one for reasonable money.
Then waited around till Jan 09 when I had some holiday from uni to pull the valver engine out.
This Hub nut bent my breaker bar several times. But I gave it some hammer anger and it came out in the end.
Red coolant..... nice
Looks a lot higher with no engine in there
Then there was a long frustrating break while I finished my year at uni.
20v Power :evil:
They come with different turbos
mine - 150bhp - K03 turbo - eg Golf MK4 gti
180bhp - K03s turbo - eg Ibiza cupra
210/225bhp - K04 turbo - Leon Curpa R, Audi TT
A K04 with mapping will top out at around 280bhp/280lbft. This sounds ideal for a clio. But a full K04 setup (inc manifold) is fairly expensive and I was struggling to find one.
In the end, put in a half arsed bid on a low mileage GT28RS on ebay......and won
For people who don't know turbos, a 28RS is capable of around 330-340bhp on these engines. I won't run that much, or anywhere near that at first......but we'll see.
I then found some brand new jabba conrods for cheap, and thought, f_ck it, I can always sell them on if I don't use them.
Gay/Pic***** photo.
Next to OEM K03 turbo
-----------------------------------------------------
FINALLY I arrived home a few weeks ago from uni, and made a start...
Renault gear mech out. Won't be needing that.
Started to strip down the engine for a trial fit. Biggest problem, was the driveshafts. They had just been cut by a breakers yard when the engine was originally pulled. VAG hold them in using Torx bolts.
ALL Mine had siezed, fun times
The little b*****ds just wanted to round off, and worse still we (me and ben-B5 BDJ) couldnt hold the driveshaft still to get the bolts out, the engine would sooner turn over!
Some thinking time later, this happened
Yes, I welded that there :approve: Rig.....
Then we had to beat each bolt with a hammer to shock it a bit and carefully ease it out.
Eventually:
Then It was onto a trial fit
You can see the engine is sitting up on the left a little. This is where it's sat on the subframe
So that bit of subframe had to go
I still chopped more out after this iirc, but you get the idea
N/S Engine mount
The plan was to bolt a golf TDI N/S engine mount (stiffest mount) to the chassis leg of the clio, then fabricate an adapter to mate it to the lugs on the engine.
Firstly I used some box section to create the box that bolts onto the gearbox lugs
With that in place I found I couldnt get 2nd or reverse :S So the grinder came out again
Sorted.
Now I needed to bolt the VAG mount to the chassis leg. I decided that I couldnt safely just bolt it straight down, the chassis leg just wasnt wide enough. So this happened.
The 3mm plate reinforces the area a bit and makes a good platform for the mount.
Welded up
Further weld was put on fixing the 3mm plate down. Then shaped the 3mm plate a touch with the grinder and coated in kurust for the min.
Then the adapter was finished off - pics further down
O/S engine mount
Take one standard VAG gearbox mount (99p off ebay)
Bring the bolt holes in just a touch
And bolt to clio using OEM bolts and bolt holes
That'll do :approve:
Engine mount adapters (N/S on left)
I wasnt confident welding these up myself with my very small welder. So I took them to Stable Motorsport Fabrications in Towcester who lovingly stitched them up with TIG and powercoated them black.
Finally the engine was mounted (on two of three mounts)
It's currently sitting with no track rod ends, No ARB and brand new R19 wishbones. This is just to get it out the garage so I can pour a better floor surface onto the garage floor.
The wider track of the 19 wishbones with the standard valver shocks gives awesome chamber.
How it stands atm waiting for the garage floor to 'cure' or whatever
As for management. I have Emerald arriving in the post tommorrow morning. Can't wait
Next job is to fabricate the third engine mount. The dogbone/lower gearbox mount.
Then it'll be strengthening the subframe. Think I might get Stable Fabrications involved on that too.
That's all for now.
Mark
a little over a year ago, I'd recently changed from a MK1 Clio 1.8 16v to a Ph2172. I was unhappy with the way the 172 handled. The extra power was great, but I thought the ultimate grip was a total let down compared to my Valver.
A mate suggested that I consider a turbo'd valver. I've never liked the idea that much, partly as I don't trust the gearboxes handling the power.
So eventually I decided I liked the idea of a VAG 1.8T 20v in a MK1.
Theres loads of advantages to the 20v - range of tuning parts, stronger gear box with a tighter shift, better designed engine mounts, oil and water feeds already in place for turbo, not to mention the creamy smooth torque curves most 20v setups create.
Disadvantages of the 20v idea:
Need to fabricate engine mounts
Cannot run OEM ECU without clocks, keys, key barrell, etc etc from original car - Qpeng might solve that but still quite costly.
Need to fab driveshafts
Need to chop and reweld subframe
It's not a cheap option, but then the alternatives arent either
Previous 20v Clios
The first one done was the clio TT by MATTBLACK. The first 20v MK1 was done by flan, who also helped adams_16v with his. So just to clarify.....it's not my idea! A lot of what I've done is a copy of flan's project.
First thing I did after some saving was buy a valver. I really wanted a white one, and I also fancied a 1992. That way when it came to MOT time, I wouldn't need a cat and the emissions test should be easy.
Picked up this from gloucester last year.
Next to my 172
Yes it's got yellow fog lights, and yes, I love em
The car isnt mint. The sills are fairly bad, and there is a section around the O/S rear window that will need a chop and weld due to rust. The arches are clean though. Don't worry, that ariel is coming off. Oh and the turbines are fooking MINT.
20v engine codes
The 1.8T 20v came in soooo many cars. Octavias, TTs, polo, golf, A3, A4, A6, sharan, passat, even the new A5s have a direct injection version of the 20v. There are LOADS of engine codes (like 20+). The best of the bunch IMO is the "AGU" code fitted to early Golf IV GTIs and A3s. It gets a big valve head, larger 20mm gudgeon pins, throttle body pickup on the other side, cable throttle, and a forged crank. So although only 150bhp from factory, it's one of the stronger ones.
I spent a while looking for my AGU, but in the end found one for reasonable money.
Then waited around till Jan 09 when I had some holiday from uni to pull the valver engine out.
This Hub nut bent my breaker bar several times. But I gave it some hammer anger and it came out in the end.
Red coolant..... nice
Looks a lot higher with no engine in there
Then there was a long frustrating break while I finished my year at uni.
20v Power :evil:
They come with different turbos
mine - 150bhp - K03 turbo - eg Golf MK4 gti
180bhp - K03s turbo - eg Ibiza cupra
210/225bhp - K04 turbo - Leon Curpa R, Audi TT
A K04 with mapping will top out at around 280bhp/280lbft. This sounds ideal for a clio. But a full K04 setup (inc manifold) is fairly expensive and I was struggling to find one.
In the end, put in a half arsed bid on a low mileage GT28RS on ebay......and won
For people who don't know turbos, a 28RS is capable of around 330-340bhp on these engines. I won't run that much, or anywhere near that at first......but we'll see.
I then found some brand new jabba conrods for cheap, and thought, f_ck it, I can always sell them on if I don't use them.
Gay/Pic***** photo.
Next to OEM K03 turbo
-----------------------------------------------------
FINALLY I arrived home a few weeks ago from uni, and made a start...
Renault gear mech out. Won't be needing that.
Started to strip down the engine for a trial fit. Biggest problem, was the driveshafts. They had just been cut by a breakers yard when the engine was originally pulled. VAG hold them in using Torx bolts.
ALL Mine had siezed, fun times
The little b*****ds just wanted to round off, and worse still we (me and ben-B5 BDJ) couldnt hold the driveshaft still to get the bolts out, the engine would sooner turn over!
Some thinking time later, this happened
Yes, I welded that there :approve: Rig.....
Then we had to beat each bolt with a hammer to shock it a bit and carefully ease it out.
Eventually:
Then It was onto a trial fit
You can see the engine is sitting up on the left a little. This is where it's sat on the subframe
So that bit of subframe had to go
I still chopped more out after this iirc, but you get the idea
N/S Engine mount
The plan was to bolt a golf TDI N/S engine mount (stiffest mount) to the chassis leg of the clio, then fabricate an adapter to mate it to the lugs on the engine.
Firstly I used some box section to create the box that bolts onto the gearbox lugs
With that in place I found I couldnt get 2nd or reverse :S So the grinder came out again
Sorted.
Now I needed to bolt the VAG mount to the chassis leg. I decided that I couldnt safely just bolt it straight down, the chassis leg just wasnt wide enough. So this happened.
The 3mm plate reinforces the area a bit and makes a good platform for the mount.
Welded up
Further weld was put on fixing the 3mm plate down. Then shaped the 3mm plate a touch with the grinder and coated in kurust for the min.
Then the adapter was finished off - pics further down
O/S engine mount
Take one standard VAG gearbox mount (99p off ebay)
Bring the bolt holes in just a touch
And bolt to clio using OEM bolts and bolt holes
That'll do :approve:
Engine mount adapters (N/S on left)
I wasnt confident welding these up myself with my very small welder. So I took them to Stable Motorsport Fabrications in Towcester who lovingly stitched them up with TIG and powercoated them black.
Finally the engine was mounted (on two of three mounts)
It's currently sitting with no track rod ends, No ARB and brand new R19 wishbones. This is just to get it out the garage so I can pour a better floor surface onto the garage floor.
The wider track of the 19 wishbones with the standard valver shocks gives awesome chamber.
How it stands atm waiting for the garage floor to 'cure' or whatever
As for management. I have Emerald arriving in the post tommorrow morning. Can't wait
Next job is to fabricate the third engine mount. The dogbone/lower gearbox mount.
Then it'll be strengthening the subframe. Think I might get Stable Fabrications involved on that too.
That's all for now.
Mark