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Twingo 172
- Thread starter Andrew Cooke
- Start date
stevo172-RWD
ClioSport Club Member
clio 172 rwd
awsome!
this will fly
this will fly
ITB'd MK1
Superb!!! Been wondering what you were doing for a while, thought it was a 5 lol. Really love mk1 twingos, they're so much fun
awesome.
needs supercharging
I dont think i have enough love to give him if he did that.
ph1 black 172
fair play... it should shift...
whats the weight of the twingo?????
whats the weight of the twingo?????
original weight is booked at 790Kg, obviously the bigger engine, wheels and brakes will have upped that a bit, but I'd guess it'd come in at under 900Kg. That makes it a real heavyweight alongside my 5, but it's fine to drive to work, and I've no intention of stripping it.
Your help has been invaluable, as well as everyone else who's given advice and helped out with parts
ooh, btw, have you fitted your struts yet? If not can you measure the hole in the strut top, and the OD of the top mount where it sits under the inner wing? It's possible that they'd fit my car
When it came to making the Twingo front dampers fit the 172 hub carriers the first job was to thin down the 26mm thick clio items to the 23mm of the Twingo. I looked at the carriers for a while before finally making a jig to hold them so that I could machine them on my mill.
when it came to it I was able to use the same jig to machine the dampers with 14mm holes in the correct position to both fit the carriers, and give a sensible camber angle. This involved a lot of dummy building, head scratching, and squinting. Strangely they came out pretty well.
While I was at it I fitted new wishbones, bushes, ball joints, steering arms and trackrod ends.
For the brakes I bought DS2500 pads, Brembo disks, and a set of goodridge hoses in Twingo fitment.
I couldn't find space for the brake pressure regulator at the rear of the car, so decided to fit it under the servo at the front, that being about the only space large enough that I could find.
I ended up making up all new brake pipes in the end as nothing was quite standard any more.
So that was it, fully working brakes
when it came to it I was able to use the same jig to machine the dampers with 14mm holes in the correct position to both fit the carriers, and give a sensible camber angle. This involved a lot of dummy building, head scratching, and squinting. Strangely they came out pretty well.
While I was at it I fitted new wishbones, bushes, ball joints, steering arms and trackrod ends.
For the brakes I bought DS2500 pads, Brembo disks, and a set of goodridge hoses in Twingo fitment.
I couldn't find space for the brake pressure regulator at the rear of the car, so decided to fit it under the servo at the front, that being about the only space large enough that I could find.
I ended up making up all new brake pipes in the end as nothing was quite standard any more.
So that was it, fully working brakes
thanks for all the kind words, makes it all seem worthwhile
stevo172-RWD
ClioSport Club Member
clio 172 rwd
Good work well done .
OK, this thread has now caught up with real time, and what follows is today's fun...
I'm running out of space
I knocked up a bracket to hold the 172 rad onto the Twingo front panel from a bit of my old trailer tyre rack, fear not, it was pretty thin, and thus light
With the rad bolted on I tried to fit the front panel onto the car, first of all the water pipes were in the way, so I removed them and tried again. Then the clutch arm was hitting a fan support, snapped the support off and tried again. Then the fan was hitting the wiring support bracket on the gearbox, so I cut that off and tried again. Then the fan was hitting the gearbox - forkit, I removed the fan and tried again. It now pretty much fitted, although the rad hits the engine mount I made
. I'll need to cut the bracket down when I get 5 minutes, but for now the rad just about fits, albeit without pipes or fan.
It looks like I'll be able to use the Twingo fan with a custom bracket, and maybe the pipes will fit with a cut and shut.
I've sorted out the throttle cable by rotating the throttle body 90deg and using the standard Twingo cable. Unfortunately the bracket does go right where I expected to put the intake pipe and filter...
The good news is that I can still close the bonnet
I'm running out of space
I knocked up a bracket to hold the 172 rad onto the Twingo front panel from a bit of my old trailer tyre rack, fear not, it was pretty thin, and thus light
With the rad bolted on I tried to fit the front panel onto the car, first of all the water pipes were in the way, so I removed them and tried again. Then the clutch arm was hitting a fan support, snapped the support off and tried again. Then the fan was hitting the wiring support bracket on the gearbox, so I cut that off and tried again. Then the fan was hitting the gearbox - forkit, I removed the fan and tried again. It now pretty much fitted, although the rad hits the engine mount I made
It looks like I'll be able to use the Twingo fan with a custom bracket, and maybe the pipes will fit with a cut and shut.
I've sorted out the throttle cable by rotating the throttle body 90deg and using the standard Twingo cable. Unfortunately the bracket does go right where I expected to put the intake pipe and filter...
The good news is that I can still close the bonnet
very slow, I didn't touch it between August and a few weeks ago, I pulled the engine out about a year ago. I'm hoping to be driving it next month, but it'll be touch and go, I've got not much free time, what with birthdays, christenings, holidays, and sundry family gatherings..
yeah, I thought about it, but space for a filter is the least of my problems. I might do it in the future, but I doubt it as I don't think it'll free up enough space to fit something like the V6 airbox, and thus just gives me more work for minimal benefit.
my priorities at the moment are to get the cooling system and fan working, then shorten the LH driveshaft, at which point I can drive it
I went through various options, and it'd certainly be easiest to have used the original uprights and driveshafts and then either use 172 brakes with caliper adaptor brackets, or GTT derived brakes, or brake upgrade. In the end I decided to go with the beefier 172 uprights, hubs, and bigger drive splines / bearings. I also get the split RH shaft, which may help with torquesteer. There was a slight drop off on my part, during my initial measurements it looked like the 172 shafts would be the right length, when it came to the final build the LH shaft is maybe 10mm too long. I'm taking 20mm out just in case I decide to drop my Gripper diff in....
