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Twingo 172
- Thread starter Andrew Cooke
- Start date
I'm still on the loaner, Craig slipped off the radar so I've ordered the kit to do it myself... it's only money :S I might do a few ECUs to claw back the expense.
I'm glad to hear it worked in reality, it's one thing thinking it looks OK on a scope, and another actually starting an engine with it
It was useful looking at yours though, based on what I saw I ruggedised mine in the same way as I returned yours.
Clio200 EDC Lux
awesome project!
I'm still on the loaner, Craig slipped off the radar so I've ordered the kit to do it myself... it's only money :S I might do a few ECUs to claw back the expense.
I'm glad to hear it worked in reality, it's one thing thinking it looks OK on a scope, and another actually starting an engine with it
Cool. Il remember you've got the kit now on then - with the amount of PM's I get regarding the conversion Im sure I can get you some ECU's to virginise to get some of that outlay back!
I've just been looking through an online catalogue, it looks like I need to get a LH Williams driveshaft and swap a 172 CV onto it. Assuming the catalogue is right....
this is what I found, lengths are Left - right, in mm
R5 GTT 595 - 690
Clio 16V 605 - 705
Clio Williams 620 - 720
Clio Sport 639 - 734
R19 16V 640 - 740
Twingo I 625 - 750
Anyone got a Williams shaft lying around, or know where to find one?
this is what I found, lengths are Left - right, in mm
R5 GTT 595 - 690
Clio 16V 605 - 705
Clio Williams 620 - 720
Clio Sport 639 - 734
R19 16V 640 - 740
Twingo I 625 - 750
Anyone got a Williams shaft lying around, or know where to find one?
wilky19
ClioSport Club Member
Leon FR 184
if you get a decoder give me a shout i need my ecu doing.
and this is one awesome project. it going to mental when finished
Will do, I'll no doubt update this thread once I've got my ECU working, should I forget to pm you just give me a prod then
I'm still struggling with the driveshaft. I have a R19 16V one sat here, so decided I could shorten that if the 172 CV fitted. I pulled the boot off, and found another of those crappy cast on joints like the Twingo had.
Enough of that, I can't run the engine for long, but when I have run it it's idled high. I've managed to log it with the RSTuner, 2000rpm with the ISC valve apparently shut. Having looked through the forum I found that there has been a fair bit of trouble with ISCVs, and replacing them has cured the problem. To check this out I put my thumb over the ISCV pipe with it idling and the revs dropped, clearly my problem lies there too. I removed the ISCV, which on my car involves reaching blindly around the back of the engine, closing my eyes and using the power of my mind to undo the bolts.... Anyway, off the car I blew through the valve easily, which I assumed was wrong. I tried cleaning the valve, but it didn't do much outside of make the valve taste nasty :dead: Oh well, in for a penny, I filed off the rivets and pulled the valve apart. There was a fair bit of crud on the tip of the valve where it should seal, I cleaned that off, cleaned the seat on the body and reassembled with some M5 bolts I found lurking in the house. It seemed to seal about the same. Then I remembered that I could hear the valve move after turning the engine off, so maybe it needed a power cycle to reseat the valve. Success, it sealed much better. Started up the engine, and it seemed to idle better ( I don't have a rev counter, so without my laptop plugged in to the RSTuner I can't be 100%). Hopefully that's fixed it, and for a cost of $0.00
Enough of that, I can't run the engine for long, but when I have run it it's idled high. I've managed to log it with the RSTuner, 2000rpm with the ISC valve apparently shut. Having looked through the forum I found that there has been a fair bit of trouble with ISCVs, and replacing them has cured the problem. To check this out I put my thumb over the ISCV pipe with it idling and the revs dropped, clearly my problem lies there too. I removed the ISCV, which on my car involves reaching blindly around the back of the engine, closing my eyes and using the power of my mind to undo the bolts.... Anyway, off the car I blew through the valve easily, which I assumed was wrong. I tried cleaning the valve, but it didn't do much outside of make the valve taste nasty :dead: Oh well, in for a penny, I filed off the rivets and pulled the valve apart. There was a fair bit of crud on the tip of the valve where it should seal, I cleaned that off, cleaned the seat on the body and reassembled with some M5 bolts I found lurking in the house. It seemed to seal about the same
. Then I remembered that I could hear the valve move after turning the engine off, so maybe it needed a power cycle to reseat the valve. Success, it sealed much better. Started up the engine, and it seemed to idle better ( I don't have a rev counter, so without my laptop plugged in to the RSTuner I can't be 100%). Hopefully that's fixed it, and for a cost of $0.00 Glad it's coming together, I can't wait to see it at some point
Me too, on both counts
I really need to get the water system plumbed in so that I can get it fully warm. It's currently a bit lean, but it won't adjust the map until it gets warm.
Maxi Megane and 182
Looking good Andrew.
We will have to have a good old fashioned curry meet when its up and running to show it off.
We will have to have a good old fashioned curry meet when its up and running to show it off.
I got a few more hours playing yesterday and sorted out the water pipes, a fair bit of curring and shutting, but they don't look too bad.
I filled up the water system and ran the engine up to 100C but the stat didn't open. Having retired to the house for the evening I remembered the bleed valve on the stat housing.... When I opened that a load of air came out, so I'm hoping the stat will work tonight.
The new Lambda sensor fitted without too much trouble, and the signal looks nice on the RSTuner.
I've been trying to unlock my ECU with no luck yet, I've emailed the manufacturer with some questions.
I've hopefully got a Williams driveshaft on the way, and recieved a new 172 CV this morning, with luck the 2 will fit together and be the right length.
I've got some pictures showing how little clearance I have between a few bits, all being well I'll post them tonight.
I'm off on holiday on Friday, but still plan on driving the car over the bank holiday weekend. I must book an MOT for when I get back off holiday.
I filled up the water system and ran the engine up to 100C but the stat didn't open. Having retired to the house for the evening I remembered the bleed valve on the stat housing.... When I opened that a load of air came out, so I'm hoping the stat will work tonight.
The new Lambda sensor fitted without too much trouble, and the signal looks nice on the RSTuner.
I've been trying to unlock my ECU with no luck yet, I've emailed the manufacturer with some questions.
I've hopefully got a Williams driveshaft on the way, and recieved a new 172 CV this morning, with luck the 2 will fit together and be the right length.
I've got some pictures showing how little clearance I have between a few bits, all being well I'll post them tonight.
I'm off on holiday on Friday, but still plan on driving the car over the bank holiday weekend. I must book an MOT for when I get back off holiday.
you can just see where I trimmed the engine mount to clear the rad.
The alternator pulley is pretty close to the headlight, and no it's not the angle making it look close
loads of space between the fan and the gearbox, although the top hose needed a bit of cut and shut to miss everything
I found a space between the ECU and the engine for a small air filter, just need to get it now.
just a couple of wires to push back in through the headlight aperture.
The alternator pulley is pretty close to the headlight, and no it's not the angle making it look close
loads of space between the fan and the gearbox, although the top hose needed a bit of cut and shut to miss everything
I found a space between the ECU and the engine for a small air filter, just need to get it now.
just a couple of wires to push back in through the headlight aperture.
only because I binned all the stuff that makes it look tight in a trophy
Standard alternator would sit forward of the number plate.
My 5 is pretty spacious too
PH2 Clio 172
Awesome, keep up the good work!! Can't wait for the first road test report
it's not bad
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=andyfandango&aq=f
tubing was done by Tarcal in 2003, and yes, GT28R. It's changed a bit since then.
it finally looks like the driveshaft saga is coming to an end....
is it just me that had never come across a 'peek aboo party pole'?
Anyway, that's the packaging that the Williams driveshaft came in
I thought I was looking sweet when my new 172 CV arrived on Monday, and the Williams shaft was in the post. Unfortunately I found on Monday evening that the CV was wrong, I'm glad I checked straight away. I should receive the correct one tomorrow.
The Williams shaft arrive today, and this evening I popped the CV off (I'm getting good at them now ) I now know 100% that the 23 spline 172CV will fit the Williams shaft (these have a 21 spline CV) The length looks OK too.
All this means I can go on holiday happy that the driveshaft should fit, and the last piece of the Twingo 172 puzzle has dropped into place
is it just me that had never come across a 'peek aboo party pole'?
Anyway, that's the packaging that the Williams driveshaft came in
I thought I was looking sweet when my new 172 CV arrived on Monday, and the Williams shaft was in the post. Unfortunately I found on Monday evening that the CV was wrong, I'm glad I checked straight away. I should receive the correct one tomorrow.
The Williams shaft arrive today, and this evening I popped the CV off (I'm getting good at them now
) I now know 100% that the 23 spline 172CV will fit the Williams shaft (these have a 21 spline CV) The length looks OK too.All this means I can go on holiday happy that the driveshaft should fit, and the last piece of the Twingo 172 puzzle has dropped into place
Just got it insured by Sky, MOT booked for the 24th, it's still Taxed, so all I need to do is go on holiday for a week and finish putting it together...
it'll be fine, the bits are here, it just needs effort on my part, and no flight delays due to volcanic ash :S
it'll be fine, the bits are here, it just needs effort on my part, and no flight delays due to volcanic ash :S
I've just cancelled my old policy, they wanted to know why I was off, so I explained about the engine change, and that they wouldn't insure it. No, says the nice lady, we can insure engine changes, I just need to put in the % power increase. Fearing I'd just made a mistake in taking out the policy with Sky I let her continue. Is it, up to 10%, 10-25%, or 25-50%. No, it's 200%.. apart from being tickled pink by the idea of such a power hike in a Twingo she couldn't insure it. Which was good news for me as it meant she could waive the cancellation fee
I got back from Italy at 3:30 this morning, since I have an MOT booked in for 9am tomorrow I've needed to finish off a few jobs. No pictures unfortunately as my camera is still on holiday.
First job was to assemble the 172 CV onto the williams shaft. That all went ok, and fitted onto the car without drama. With the hub nut loose I pushed and pulled the CV to check the plunge, it felt OK, so I bolted everything up and topped up the gearbox oil.
With the car on stands I started the engine and dropped it into gear, this produced a horrible cyclic rubbing noise. My first though was that I'd dropped a clanger and that the driveshafts were rubbing on something. A quick check showed nothing obvious, so I turned the wheel by hand, listening and looking for anything odd. The inner end of the Williams driveshaft is moving eccentrically, the joint feels OK, so I think there's a reasonable possibility that the shaft is bent. I didn't have time to strip everything down to be certain, and it'll be OK for getting an MOT.
I continued bolting the suspension together, and dropped it onto the floor. Moment of truth, I started it up and drove backwards and forwards on the drive. Tyrapped a few wires etc out of the way, fitted the missing headlight, checked it, wired the fan, and ran the engine to get it fully hot with the fan switching in and out.
I think the rideheight might need a tweek, the front looks too low to me (the suspension kit is for the 1.2L engine, so it's probably just the extra engine weight pulling it down) The rear looks a bit high, but I'm going to drive it to see how twitchy it feels, due to the lack of droop at the rear lowering will make it more stable.
I considered it washing it, but my one bucket technique requires me to have a bucket and sponge. It's so long since I've used either that I can't find them and have probably used the bucket for storing parts or draining oil...
First job was to assemble the 172 CV onto the williams shaft. That all went ok, and fitted onto the car without drama. With the hub nut loose I pushed and pulled the CV to check the plunge, it felt OK, so I bolted everything up and topped up the gearbox oil.
With the car on stands I started the engine and dropped it into gear, this produced a horrible cyclic rubbing noise. My first though was that I'd dropped a clanger and that the driveshafts were rubbing on something. A quick check showed nothing obvious, so I turned the wheel by hand, listening and looking for anything odd. The inner end of the Williams driveshaft is moving eccentrically, the joint feels OK, so I think there's a reasonable possibility that the shaft is bent
. I didn't have time to strip everything down to be certain, and it'll be OK for getting an MOT.I continued bolting the suspension together, and dropped it onto the floor. Moment of truth, I started it up and drove backwards and forwards on the drive. Tyrapped a few wires etc out of the way, fitted the missing headlight, checked it, wired the fan, and ran the engine to get it fully hot with the fan switching in and out.
I think the rideheight might need a tweek, the front looks too low to me (the suspension kit is for the 1.2L engine, so it's probably just the extra engine weight pulling it down) The rear looks a bit high, but I'm going to drive it to see how twitchy it feels, due to the lack of droop at the rear lowering will make it more stable.
I considered it washing it, but my one bucket technique requires me to have a bucket and sponge. It's so long since I've used either that I can't find them and have probably used the bucket for storing parts or draining oil...
well, good news and bad.
It all works. It's been a while since I've driven a quick road car, at first it felt a bit slow, but once warm and using the revs it certainly picks up it's skirts and flies. More than fast enough for the lanes around here. With no air filter it makes a noise that says 'look at me', and that won't really change as I'm going to be using an open pipercross filter (it should be waiting for me at work).
The brakes need a bit of a bleed, but they work well enough.
Suspension feels OK, not too stiff. I still need to do the tracking so no heroics on that front.
Unfortunately it failed the MOT on some rust, I'm getting it patched up to get through the MOT, but really need to do a proper underfloor restoration and anti corrosion job during the winter. It's just on the turn now, so shouldn't be too bad, but needs doing right.
Overall the MOT guy was impressed, I've known him years, so spent the time to talk through what I'd done, and what I'd swapped so that he could have a good look at those areas.
Roll on Prescott this coming weekend
It all works. It's been a while since I've driven a quick road car, at first it felt a bit slow, but once warm and using the revs it certainly picks up it's skirts and flies. More than fast enough for the lanes around here. With no air filter it makes a noise that says 'look at me', and that won't really change as I'm going to be using an open pipercross filter (it should be waiting for me at work).
The brakes need a bit of a bleed, but they work well enough.
Suspension feels OK, not too stiff. I still need to do the tracking so no heroics on that front.
Unfortunately it failed the MOT on some rust, I'm getting it patched up to get through the MOT, but really need to do a proper underfloor restoration and anti corrosion job during the winter. It's just on the turn now, so shouldn't be too bad, but needs doing right.
Overall the MOT guy was impressed, I've known him years, so spent the time to talk through what I'd done, and what I'd swapped so that he could have a good look at those areas.
Roll on Prescott this coming weekend
indeed
I need to book it in to get an exhaust made, I can't imagine that my twingo peashooter is going to keep up
I'm thinking of getting Prospeed to make up a quiet/stealth job.
