Wet sparkplugs

[Booty]

So I changed the sparkplugs on my 1.8 16v and notived that they are a little wet, but I don’t know if this is too much or if it’s normal for the age.

 

[Booty]

I just want to know if the piston rings are bad or something like that or if the engine is fine.
I have never seen blue smoke from the exhaust btw.

 

[Mr Plums]

Might be the rocker cover gasket thats leaking letting oil into the spark plug holes.

 

[Booty]

That was changed recently, so I doubt it’s broken again.
I was talking about the part of the plug that goes into the cylinder (don’t know how its called exactly)

 

[da rok]

looks like 2 cylinders are burning richer, could be injector problem, could be compression problem, easy enough to check for both, can swap injectors around and see if the wetter and blacker plugs follow the injector, and compression test will show if there are bad cylinders...

 

[Coops Mk1]

check the rocker gasket again, they are a pain to get right and that above is typical symptom of oil leak from the rocker into the plug wells

 

[R3k1355]

Left most plug is wet with oil the entire length of the thread.

 

[JamesBryan]

Left most plug is wet with oil the entire length of the thread.

The oil will work it's way down the threads eventually and even more so as you unscrew the plug.

 

[R3k1355]

The oil will work it's way down the threads eventually and even more so as you unscrew the plug.

Kinda the point I was making.

If the entire length of the tread is wet it usually indicates a leak from above.

 

[Booty]

If I remove the rocker/cam cover to check the gasket, can I just move it into place and retighten the cover or do I have to apply something to the gasket?
Never replaced gaskets by myself

 

[JamesBryan]

If I remove the rocker/cam cover to check the gasket, can I just move it into place and retighten the cover or do I have to apply something to the gasket?
Never replaced gaskets by myself

You can't just remove the cover i'm affraid.

You'd need to lock off the cams and remove the belt and pulleys.

 

[Booty]

So basically take the engine out of the car?

 

[JamesBryan]

So basically take the engine out of the car?

No, you can leave the engine in.

It's basically like doing a cambelt change but with the extra step of taking the cover off and sealing it.

 

[Booty]

Got it, but don’t know when I will have time to do it :/

If I want to take the only the cover of to repaint it for example, would I have to go through the same process with the belt and cams?

 

[JamesBryan]

Paint it in place as it is.

The oil leak isn't a major thing really. My 182 has been doing it for about 2 years, i'm just waiting until the next cambelt change.

 

[Booty]

Oh ok, so you say just mask-off the engine bay and then spray it in there if I understood correct?

 

[JamesBryan]

Yeah or brush it on.

It's rough cast anyway so you won't see the brush marks.

 

[R3k1355]

Didn't you say the rocker cover gasket had been done?

 

[Booty]

Yes, I did, why?
I didn’t do I myself

 

[Mr Plums]

Yes, I did, why?
I didn’t do I myself

Have you got receipts, or did you get it done in your ownership mate?

 

[Booty]

Yes, in my ownership, about 2 months ago

 

[flebay]

You can't just remove the cover i'm affraid.

You'd need to lock off the cams and remove the belt and pulleys.

This is a 1.8 16v not a Clio sport so you don't have to touch the cams, belt, pulleys, there's nothing to be afraid about. Its just a case of removing the valve cover and replacing the rubber gasket.

 

[Booty]

Well... now I’m not sure what to believe

 

[Coops Mk1]

1.8 16v F7P engine you can remove the cam cover no problem, the cams have seperate carriers

 

[Coops Mk1]

I would also suggest binning off those awful 4 electrode plugs aswell and just getting some bcr8es ngk single electrode ones

 

[Booty]

Thanks for the clear answer

Replaced them the same day I took that photo

When I take the cam cover off, do I need some sort of grease for the gasket or can I just retighten the cover with the gasket placed correctly?

 

[STEVE.M]

Are these plugs pictured in the order of the cylinders they came out of?

 

[STEVE.M]

I would also suggest binning off those awful 4 electrode plugs aswell and just getting some bcr8es ngk single electrode ones

Like this, but 8`s are too cold for this engine.
6`s would be tops.

 

[Booty]

Are these plugs pictured in the order of the cylinders they came out of?

Yes, the left one was on the gearbox side and so on

 

[Coops Mk1]

Like this, but 8`s are too cold for this engine.
6`s would be tops.

sorry yes, I was still thinking of the ones I use for the turbo lump, its 6 you want @Booty

ideally you will need a new gasket as its a crush type so theoretically one use only. I've always just tended to loose the gasket completely and use a thin smear of tiger seal, thin being the operative word as the last thing you want is squidged out excess dropping onto the cams etc.

 

[R3k1355]

Yes, I did, why?
I didn’t do I myself

Just it appears to be leaking, which isn't great for a new gasket.

Have you got receipts, or did you get it done in your ownership mate?

Yes, in my ownership, about 2 months ago

One explanation is the gasket was replaced, but the plugs/plug holes were already full of oil and you're just seeing the mess left behind from the previous leaking gasket.

 

[STEVE.M]

I just want to know if the piston rings are bad or something like that or if the engine is fine.
I have never seen blue smoke from the exhaust btw.

The plug on the left of the picture (No1 gearbox end) is not firing correctly, and No3 does not look much better.
Talk about gaskets & oil on the threads is irrelevant.
To check the condition of the piston rings, start with a dry compression test, followed by a wet compression test. ( A measured 20cc of oil squirted down the bore from a syringe )
If cylinders 1 & 3 improve significantly over 2 & 4, there is a problem with the rings.
If there is not a significant improvement with the wet test, but the compressions are inconsistent between cylinders, then you are looking at a valve sealing problem.
Compressions should read 180 psi or 13 bar ish, but all being the same is more important, as I doubt the gauge will have a calibration certificate.

You need to do this before looking elsewhere.

As you have confirmed the plugs are pictured in order, this has eliminated a coil pack problem, thank you.

I will ask what number is on these NGK plugs, as they are not the correct type?

 

[Booty]

Thank you for the detailed explanation, I will definalety do a compression test as soon as possible.

Old plugs: BKR6EQUP
New plugs: BKR6EKUB

 

[STEVE.M]

Thank you for the detailed explanation, I will definalety do a compression test as soon as possible.

Old plugs: BKR6EQUP
New plugs: BKR6EKUB

The original 1.8 16v plug was BPR6EK.
b= 14MM thread
p= extended tip
r=5k resistor
6=heat rating
e=long reach thread
k=dual electrode

from the top of my head.

 

[Booty]

But the ones I used shouldn’t be a cause of those problems, right?

 

[STEVE.M]

Thank you for the detailed explanation, I will definalety do a compression test as soon as possible.

Old plugs: BKR6EQUP
New plugs: BKR6EKUB

If you bang in a 4 electrode plug into a system powered for a 2 electrode, you end up with 4 weak sparks, rather than 2 good ones.

But that`s by the by.

Crack on with the compression tests.

 

[STEVE.M]

But the ones I used shouldn’t be a cause of those problems, right?

Correct

 

[Booty]

Need help once again.
I just received the compression tester I ordered, but I can’t figure out which relay is for the fuel pump. Google didn’t help much either...

 

[Mr Plums]

I think its the little black square in the fuse box under the bonnet, theres 3 black square ones and i think its the middle one.

 

[STEVE.M]

Need help once again.
I just received the compression tester I ordered, but I can’t figure out which relay is for the fuel pump. Google didn’t help much either...

Worry about that after you have done the compression tests.

If they are all good, I`d take a good look at the distributor cap, arm & leads next.