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BG 182
- Thread starter Louis
- Start date
@leeds2592 came over to mine today for his headlights polishing.
Brought his rstuner over and managed to code out my airbag lights which had been there since fitting the seats. Lovely to have no lights now!
Then went for a drive out over saddleworth to assess the cars against each other. Weather has been good just very windy!
Brought his rstuner over and managed to code out my airbag lights which had been there since fitting the seats. Lovely to have no lights now!
Then went for a drive out over saddleworth to assess the cars against each other. Weather has been good just very windy!
After another member mentioned one of my rear lights being cloudy I havnt been able to not notice it. Felt like it was really letting the car down and decided just to buy a brand new pair.
Managed to pick up a set of genuine valeo rear lights from autodoc for £53 posted.
Had contemplated getting another set of low mileage used but they're all the same age and have the years of UV exposure degrading the plastic.
This was before, and showing the filth behind too.
LHS
RHS
Obviously couldnt leave the body filthy when fitting new lights, so I used a combination of low ratio surfex HD/AF shampoo to clean it up, then applied 2 layers of poorboys natty wax to provide some protection. Never seen with the lights fitted but should hopefully repel the dirt for a short time atleast.
Excuse the state of the rest of the car, not had much good weather recently.
I removed all the bulb holders and cleaned up the rubber gaskets that secure to the lights. The new valeo lights dont come with bulb holder and I couldnt find them new. Would have preferred to replace them too but a clean will have to do! One of the gaskets was split so I glued it back together prior to fitment to reduce the chance of condensation forming within.
After doing this the lights themselves were coated in 2 layers of AG HD wax and then re-assembled.
You can see the difference in colour between the old and new, UV playing a serious part over the last 16 or so years!
Managed to pick up a set of genuine valeo rear lights from autodoc for £53 posted.
Had contemplated getting another set of low mileage used but they're all the same age and have the years of UV exposure degrading the plastic.
This was before, and showing the filth behind too.
LHS
RHS
Obviously couldnt leave the body filthy when fitting new lights, so I used a combination of low ratio surfex HD/AF shampoo to clean it up, then applied 2 layers of poorboys natty wax to provide some protection. Never seen with the lights fitted but should hopefully repel the dirt for a short time atleast.
Excuse the state of the rest of the car, not had much good weather recently.
I removed all the bulb holders and cleaned up the rubber gaskets that secure to the lights. The new valeo lights dont come with bulb holder and I couldnt find them new. Would have preferred to replace them too but a clean will have to do! One of the gaskets was split so I glued it back together prior to fitment to reduce the chance of condensation forming within.
After doing this the lights themselves were coated in 2 layers of AG HD wax and then re-assembled.
You can see the difference in colour between the old and new, UV playing a serious part over the last 16 or so years!
After protecting the lights I carefully cleaned up the cabling and connections using a wire brush/needle file and refitted them.
It's quite bright so photos arent the best but I'm super pleased with the results. It has highlighted the slight panel gap difference in the boot left to right but it's not that noticeable.
Overall a relatively simple job and the quality of the rear lights is as good as the originals. Even have all the same tooling marks as oem. Hoping to give the whole car a clean tomorrow so will grab some better photos then.
It's quite bright so photos arent the best but I'm super pleased with the results. It has highlighted the slight panel gap difference in the boot left to right but it's not that noticeable.
Overall a relatively simple job and the quality of the rear lights is as good as the originals. Even have all the same tooling marks as oem. Hoping to give the whole car a clean tomorrow so will grab some better photos then.
After removing the condensor a few weeks back it was clear the radiator was also on its last legs as it had started to droop pretty badly and all the cage nut fixings had pulled out. This obviously meant I now needed to buy a new condensor, radiator, expansion tank and full silicone hose set. Man maths.
Following @mossyv6's thread I bought the same £15 condensor and £50 nissens radiator. Two absolute bargains and something that makes clio ownership so good, just how cheap it is to replace parts like this!
So got the clio in the air and started the strip down. Bumper off and took pictures of all the pipework routes so I knew how to put it back together. Obviously I wont post all those but if anyone needs them for future reference let me know.
First task was removing the top aircon pipe that ran down the left into the bulkhead and then into the top of the dryer. This snapped when disconnecting it from the old dryer so I spurced a good used one. I cleaned up all the orings and any aluminium oxidation with a knife/wire brush before refitting.
From here I popped the lower radiator hose and drained all the coolant. This was made easier by removing the condensor previously, as you could now access the clip from the front with a pair of water pump pliers.
Most of it actually went into the bowl but I rinsed any that didnt straight away with the hose, as to avoid any harm to the local cats that wander down our driveway.
All the remaining hoses were then removed including the expansion tank. The radiator was wiggled out and photographed so I knew the correct orientation of the fan.
I cleaned up all the fan and began prepping the new radiator. Again thanking @mossyv6 for sending me across some m6 cage nuts, i clipped these into place.
The fan and the condensor were secured relatively easily with some new m6 fasteners.
I removed the bottom radiator rubbers from the subframe and cleaned them up. Also hitting the rust with the wire brush and coating it in some dynax. Ideally could have done with taking the whole lot back and repainting it but wanted to crack on so this was the best for now. It gets absolutely hammered everyday anyway so would just end up in a similar condition.
Bottom radiator hose bracket was also rounded so I cut it off, tapped out the existing rivnut and put a new m8 in its place.
After following @RichValver's guide I also cut off the matrix connectors ready to fit to the new silicone hoses. These were a pain to remove from the matrix having to push the clips in then push and pull hard
I shoved the hose into the matrix and flushed it through. It ran clear right away so pretty happy with the condition of it.
Run out of photos so I'll have to start a new post...
Following @mossyv6's thread I bought the same £15 condensor and £50 nissens radiator. Two absolute bargains and something that makes clio ownership so good, just how cheap it is to replace parts like this!
So got the clio in the air and started the strip down. Bumper off and took pictures of all the pipework routes so I knew how to put it back together. Obviously I wont post all those but if anyone needs them for future reference let me know.
First task was removing the top aircon pipe that ran down the left into the bulkhead and then into the top of the dryer. This snapped when disconnecting it from the old dryer so I spurced a good used one. I cleaned up all the orings and any aluminium oxidation with a knife/wire brush before refitting.
From here I popped the lower radiator hose and drained all the coolant. This was made easier by removing the condensor previously, as you could now access the clip from the front with a pair of water pump pliers.
Most of it actually went into the bowl but I rinsed any that didnt straight away with the hose, as to avoid any harm to the local cats that wander down our driveway.
All the remaining hoses were then removed including the expansion tank. The radiator was wiggled out and photographed so I knew the correct orientation of the fan.
I cleaned up all the fan and began prepping the new radiator. Again thanking @mossyv6 for sending me across some m6 cage nuts, i clipped these into place.
The fan and the condensor were secured relatively easily with some new m6 fasteners.
I removed the bottom radiator rubbers from the subframe and cleaned them up. Also hitting the rust with the wire brush and coating it in some dynax. Ideally could have done with taking the whole lot back and repainting it but wanted to crack on so this was the best for now. It gets absolutely hammered everyday anyway so would just end up in a similar condition.
Bottom radiator hose bracket was also rounded so I cut it off, tapped out the existing rivnut and put a new m8 in its place.
After following @RichValver's guide I also cut off the matrix connectors ready to fit to the new silicone hoses. These were a pain to remove from the matrix having to push the clips in then push and pull hard
I shoved the hose into the matrix and flushed it through. It ran clear right away so pretty happy with the condition of it.
Run out of photos so I'll have to start a new post...
As I had flushed the matrix with water I back filled it with some type d coolant until running green to remove any organics i had introduced.
I purchased the black MTC hoses and for the money the quality is fantastic. I connected them together using the supplied aluminium adaptors then used some JCS Higrips for the clamps. These are better than the jubilee as they're just stamped so are smooth on the inside and dont dig into the pipes.
These were all fitted into place with the hardest part being the matrix connections, but this wasnt unexpected! The only modification was to trim away some hose on the join between the two just to get them sitting better, but you even have to do this with the expensive forge ones!
Radiator assembly was then wiggled down into place, taking care not to damage the condensor.
The wiring for the fan was plugged back in and then I reconnected the top and bottom radiator hoses. Found using a 7mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet made all these clamp connections super easy to nip up.
Annoyingly the bit that took the longest was manipulating the AC pipes so that they would connect to the dryer. The line had clearly been bent so took me a while to get it correct, annoying thing of buying used parts I guess.
Once that was sorted I nipped up all the clamps and began filling the system with fresh Renault Type D.
I checked for any leaks as I did it and thankfully found none. Undid the bleed bolt on the thermostat until a steady stream of coolant flowed out, then retightened. Car was started and I let it run for 30 minutes squeezing the top hose regularly until the fan started spinning and the whole system got hot. No more leaks and only a small amount of coolant needed adding.
I will keep an eye on this for the next drive taking some coolant with me just incase.
Radiator crash bar was then refitted making sure all the latch was realigned with the witness marks from the washers, to avoid any issues with the bonnet not opening.
Bumper and undertray was refitted and then the car put back on its wheels. I have since removed the induction kit for cleaning and oiling.
All in all it went relatively well with no major issues. Following the guide did really help aswell as taking my time and ensuring everything was sat in the correct place before clamping up. I'll keep an eye on it to see if I get any leaks and then will be going in for the AC recharging. Just in time for winter.
I purchased the black MTC hoses and for the money the quality is fantastic. I connected them together using the supplied aluminium adaptors then used some JCS Higrips for the clamps. These are better than the jubilee as they're just stamped so are smooth on the inside and dont dig into the pipes.
These were all fitted into place with the hardest part being the matrix connections, but this wasnt unexpected! The only modification was to trim away some hose on the join between the two just to get them sitting better, but you even have to do this with the expensive forge ones!
Radiator assembly was then wiggled down into place, taking care not to damage the condensor.
The wiring for the fan was plugged back in and then I reconnected the top and bottom radiator hoses. Found using a 7mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet made all these clamp connections super easy to nip up.
Annoyingly the bit that took the longest was manipulating the AC pipes so that they would connect to the dryer. The line had clearly been bent so took me a while to get it correct, annoying thing of buying used parts I guess.
Once that was sorted I nipped up all the clamps and began filling the system with fresh Renault Type D.
I checked for any leaks as I did it and thankfully found none. Undid the bleed bolt on the thermostat until a steady stream of coolant flowed out, then retightened. Car was started and I let it run for 30 minutes squeezing the top hose regularly until the fan started spinning and the whole system got hot. No more leaks and only a small amount of coolant needed adding.
I will keep an eye on this for the next drive taking some coolant with me just incase.
Radiator crash bar was then refitted making sure all the latch was realigned with the witness marks from the washers, to avoid any issues with the bonnet not opening.
Bumper and undertray was refitted and then the car put back on its wheels. I have since removed the induction kit for cleaning and oiling.
All in all it went relatively well with no major issues. Following the guide did really help aswell as taking my time and ensuring everything was sat in the correct place before clamping up. I'll keep an eye on it to see if I get any leaks and then will be going in for the AC recharging. Just in time for winter.
Last edited:
did you manage to get details of all the clamps required Louis? I want to change all mine when I flush the system
I got these ones mate.
JCS HIGRIP
Pack QTY: Pack of 4, Material Spec: W4 - Stainless Steel, Clip Size: 17-25mm (0X)
Pack QTY: Pack of 10, Material Spec: W4 - Stainless Steel, Clip Size: 25-35mm (1)
Pack QTY: Pack of 4, Material Spec: W4 - Stainless Steel, Clip Size: 35-45mm
Worked perfectly, zero issues!
Cheers dude, I’ll get ordering. Nice job by the way
Jekyll
ClioSport Club Member
Great work louis!
Depends on whether it has any in it! I noticed mine is full of oil still as some dripped out when swapping hoses.
I presume the machines will automatically add some anyway.
MLB
ClioSport Club Member
Must be the time for Clio radiators and condensers to go as my radiator has just given up and I'm collecting parts to do this exact same thing this month!
How many of those m6 cage nuts did you need?
@DomP182 manual says to add 30ml of pag sp10 (pag46) oil to the circuit when replacing a condenser and 10 ml for every pipe.
When regassing it should add a bit of oil anyway, but I'm not sure how much, best to ask?
How many of those m6 cage nuts did you need?
@DomP182 manual says to add 30ml of pag sp10 (pag46) oil to the circuit when replacing a condenser and 10 ml for every pipe.
When regassing it should add a bit of oil anyway, but I'm not sure how much, best to ask?
ajracer
ClioSport Club Member
Nice work and great write up mate. On my list for this winter as rad and hoses look tired.
frayz
ClioSport Club Member
Nice job chap. Did mine over lockdown. It’s so rewarding seeing a fresh new cooling pack in there.
That is surprisingly battered. That's another job done though that you'll not have to worry about. I hope the aircon gasses up without any issues mate👍.
The original spring clamp mount that secured under the battery was too tight around the new silicone hoses. Not wanting the hose to be loose and start rubbing I drilled out one of the higrips.
My only concern is it rubbing on the gearbox mounting however it is now sturdy and will all move together?
Other solution is a nylon/rubber P clip but not sure if I'll have the length to clear the mount any better.
My only concern is it rubbing on the gearbox mounting however it is now sturdy and will all move together?
Other solution is a nylon/rubber P clip but not sure if I'll have the length to clear the mount any better.
Recently managed to pick up a used PMS shifter having put off buying one new because of the hefty price tag.
Having read loads of threads on the rattle and wanting to avoid it as much as possible, I messaged @frayz @perazzi @panderoo who pointed me in the direction of the minebea PTFE bearing. Thanks guys! Spoke to autosport bearings and got one posted for about 30quid. Another reason I didnt want to buy new as I would have swapped the bearing out anyway making it even more expensive!
Having struggled with removing the large nut on top of the PMS, I bought and bolted a big wilton vice onto my work benches in the garage. This lead to the nut coming off easily but someone had been generous with the threadlock!
Having pulled it apart, I took the reverse lift collar to work and polished it on the lathe to remove the yellow phos coating. This was a huge improvement over the yellow and autosol gave it some must needed protection. I'll keep it waxed when on the car but I dont see it rusting.
Unfortunately I also noticed the coating on the central shaft was damaged. Trying to avoid any corrosion when fitted I gave it a coat of etch and finished with some anthracite spray. Itll probably get scratched when fitting the shifter but it should help a bit!
Frustratingly the bearing holder itself had traces of powdercoat in it which caused the new bearing to go tight when fitting. I used the wire brush on the dremel then polished it upto 1200 to get a smooth finish inside. This allowed the bearing to pop in without too much persuasion from the hammer and socket.
My new circlip pliers came into play here with fitting the retaining circlip back in place and made it painless. Threadlock was used when reassembling but a lot less than before!
Having read the fitting guide, I decided to buy some 2mm silicone sheet and make my own gasket. This saves any hassle with using wet silicone and should theoretically reduce NVH, due to it no longer being metal on metal contact when fitted. We will see!
Whilst there I also decided to pull out the leftover sound deadening and apply some. I didnt have enough to cover the whole thing so halfway will have to do. No idea if this will work but it also cant do any harm!
Excited to fit it now and see the difference to my DIY scenic shifter.
Having read loads of threads on the rattle and wanting to avoid it as much as possible, I messaged @frayz @perazzi @panderoo who pointed me in the direction of the minebea PTFE bearing. Thanks guys! Spoke to autosport bearings and got one posted for about 30quid. Another reason I didnt want to buy new as I would have swapped the bearing out anyway making it even more expensive!
Having struggled with removing the large nut on top of the PMS, I bought and bolted a big wilton vice onto my work benches in the garage. This lead to the nut coming off easily but someone had been generous with the threadlock!
Having pulled it apart, I took the reverse lift collar to work and polished it on the lathe to remove the yellow phos coating. This was a huge improvement over the yellow and autosol gave it some must needed protection. I'll keep it waxed when on the car but I dont see it rusting.
Unfortunately I also noticed the coating on the central shaft was damaged. Trying to avoid any corrosion when fitted I gave it a coat of etch and finished with some anthracite spray. Itll probably get scratched when fitting the shifter but it should help a bit!
Frustratingly the bearing holder itself had traces of powdercoat in it which caused the new bearing to go tight when fitting. I used the wire brush on the dremel then polished it upto 1200 to get a smooth finish inside. This allowed the bearing to pop in without too much persuasion from the hammer and socket.
My new circlip pliers came into play here with fitting the retaining circlip back in place and made it painless. Threadlock was used when reassembling but a lot less than before!
Having read the fitting guide, I decided to buy some 2mm silicone sheet and make my own gasket. This saves any hassle with using wet silicone and should theoretically reduce NVH, due to it no longer being metal on metal contact when fitted. We will see!
Whilst there I also decided to pull out the leftover sound deadening and apply some. I didnt have enough to cover the whole thing so halfway will have to do. No idea if this will work but it also cant do any harm!
Excited to fit it now and see the difference to my DIY scenic shifter.
frayz
ClioSport Club Member
Quality job there chap. 👍🏼
Sj1782
ClioSport Club Member
Audi s3 8p
I've messed around with standard and scenic shifters, I know it will be a pain!
Plan is to do it on a ramp next Saturday which should make it easier.
Took the trip to my brothers garage yesterday so I had access to a ramp for a change! My linkage wasnt aligned properly and I was having to be super careful into every gear which was ruining the drive. My fault when I set up the linkage last time by myself! Didnt want to mess around with it as I had the PMS to fit.
Anyway, a ramp makes this job a thousand times easier 😂 Pulled the entire shifter and linkage out in about 15 minutes. Refitted using the custom silicone gasket, however I still ended up using a small bit of RTV as a precaution.
Now setting this up is an absolute nightmare. The smallest movement has such a huge overall effect on the gear selection but this is no different to oem. Also for anyone who is doing this job, make sure your dogbone bolt is orientated as below.
My linkage rod was hitting it during the reverse selection when orientated the other way. Worth checking if scrabbling on your back in the cold and struggling with setup.
Managed to get it aligned, but it is knocking on the tunnel when going into reverse. I'll take a look at some point and maybe rotate the bolt to give some room. However I can live with that as it slots into all gears nicely. Didnt grab any photos of it fitted as I need to cable tie the gaiter first.
Grabbed a photo from outside the unit though.
Drove down the road and the first thing I noticed was it resonated instantly. It's not loud and as aggressive as some videos ive seen but it still buzzes like a bastad.
Selection wise it feels good, throw is slightly longer than on my modified scenic shifter but it is more confidence inspiring and certain into gear. However it is looser than the scenic, which was tighter along the gate.
5th gear is also an odd one as it feels different to OEM because of the spherical bearing. Something I'll get used to but funny I've not seen others mention it.
Finally the bolt on the top of the quaife is horrible. It looks good, but it digs into your hand where the counterbore is during a gear change. I'll be getting some sort or bung to slot in here as it's not been thought about at all.
Overall it feels nice, but it's not a huge improvement over my DIY scenic shifter. I think if you're jumping from a standard to a PMS youd be impressed but first impressions for me arent all that. I'd be slightly disappointed if I had spent £360 on this.
Anyway, a ramp makes this job a thousand times easier 😂 Pulled the entire shifter and linkage out in about 15 minutes. Refitted using the custom silicone gasket, however I still ended up using a small bit of RTV as a precaution.
Now setting this up is an absolute nightmare. The smallest movement has such a huge overall effect on the gear selection but this is no different to oem. Also for anyone who is doing this job, make sure your dogbone bolt is orientated as below.
My linkage rod was hitting it during the reverse selection when orientated the other way. Worth checking if scrabbling on your back in the cold and struggling with setup.
Managed to get it aligned, but it is knocking on the tunnel when going into reverse. I'll take a look at some point and maybe rotate the bolt to give some room. However I can live with that as it slots into all gears nicely. Didnt grab any photos of it fitted as I need to cable tie the gaiter first.
Grabbed a photo from outside the unit though.
Drove down the road and the first thing I noticed was it resonated instantly. It's not loud and as aggressive as some videos ive seen but it still buzzes like a bastad.
Selection wise it feels good, throw is slightly longer than on my modified scenic shifter but it is more confidence inspiring and certain into gear. However it is looser than the scenic, which was tighter along the gate.
5th gear is also an odd one as it feels different to OEM because of the spherical bearing. Something I'll get used to but funny I've not seen others mention it.
Finally the bolt on the top of the quaife is horrible. It looks good, but it digs into your hand where the counterbore is during a gear change. I'll be getting some sort or bung to slot in here as it's not been thought about at all.
Overall it feels nice, but it's not a huge improvement over my DIY scenic shifter. I think if you're jumping from a standard to a PMS youd be impressed but first impressions for me arent all that. I'd be slightly disappointed if I had spent £360 on this.
I'd say it looks better than most because it's a chrome shaft, but i get what you mean about the knob. I wasnt expecting it to dig in my hand quite so much, and also hoping the rattle settles down.
