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Jim's Black Ph2 172 (Just like everyone else's!)
- Thread starter JimF
- Start date
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- Tags
- amateurhour
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Okay so more as a way of keeping track of things for myself, my plans for the winter rebuild are as follows:
1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs.
2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter.
3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff.
4) Figure out if the rad fans are actually functioning. Its never overheated but I don't recall ever hearing them running...
5) Fit the Jon Foz subframe and dropping the steering column.
1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs.
2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter.
3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff.
4) Figure out if the rad fans are actually functioning. Its never overheated but I don't recall ever hearing them running...
5) Fit the Jon Foz subframe and dropping the steering column.
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs.
2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter.
3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff.
4) Figure out if the rad fans are actually functioning. Its never overheated but I don't recall ever hearing them running... They work, thankfully.
5) Fit the Jon Foz subframe and dropping the steering column.
The reason I could check, is I borrowed a code reader with a test function, to figure out why the STOP and battery lights came on this morning. Car is doing 12v while running according to the code reader (on a scale of 0-12v) but I'm going to check the alternator with a multimeter tonight. No codes either.
Will throw the battery tester on it when the mechanic at work gets back in.
2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter.
3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff.
5) Fit the Jon Foz subframe and dropping the steering column.
The reason I could check, is I borrowed a code reader with a test function, to figure out why the STOP and battery lights came on this morning. Car is doing 12v while running according to the code reader (on a scale of 0-12v) but I'm going to check the alternator with a multimeter tonight. No codes either.
Will throw the battery tester on it when the mechanic at work gets back in.
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Update 8/1
1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs. I've used a cable tie to pull the exhaust mount poly bush over to one side, but I suspect it will need further adjustment when I can get it in the air. The exhaust is definitely touching the exhaust mount though. I suspect it'll need slackening off and some jiggling. Or I may just bend the hanger.
2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter.
3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff.
4) Figure out if the rad fans are actually functioning. Its never overheated but I don't recall ever hearing them running...
5) Fit the Jon Foz subframe and dropping the steering column.
6) Remove, repair, and subsequently refit alternator.
2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter.
3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff.
5) Fit the Jon Foz subframe and dropping the steering column.
6) Remove, repair, and subsequently refit alternator.
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
That was this weekend's job!
Still get kinda surprised when I remember I own a house. A work in progress, but got a shot of the other work in progress at the same time!
Bumper off!
Closeup of my
God bless whoever found out this jubilee clip trick for the tensioner (I was halfway through getting the belt off, don't worry!)
Pretty tricky getting it out of the engine bay actually, must have rotated it around every direction. However it finally emerged, like a dirty metal egg.
Now its off to get rebuilt and should be back by the end of the week.
Car looks in a bit of a sorry state!
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Update 8/2
1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs.
2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter.
3)Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff.
4) Figure out if the rad fans are actually functioning. Its never overheated but I don't recall ever hearing them running...
5) Fit the Jon Foz subframe and dropping the steering column.
6) Remove, repair, and subsequently refit alternator.
Mocked up the cooler, I've since made some ridiculous billet blocks to act as brackets, because why not?!
I've also been buying bits, so along with the 8AN fittings, Aeroquip hose etc, I've also ordered a set of Grams springs, and a Volantech cruise control steering wheel mounted panel. Tempted with that PMS rear ARB in the classifieds at the minute, but want to do one thing at once really.
As well as that, my birthday coincided with realising I needed to buy some tools that me and my Dad had been sharing whilst we shared a garage.
Any excuse (Wera fanboy)
Always fancied a battery ratchet so looking forward to breaking plenty of bolts with this!
Think it passed inspection
So to make it a neater list:
Maintenance/Mechanical bits
1) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter
2) Plumb in powersteering cooler, refill & bleed system.
3) Fit lowering springs
4) Fit Jon Foz seat subframe
Cosmetic/Fiddly bits
1) Fit gearbox driptray
2) Drop steering column
3) Fit Volantech cruise panel
4) Fit sunstrip
5) Decide if sunstrip looks w**k or not
6) Replace brake duct hose
I mainly made this post to ask a question, but thought I'd give you something to read so its a bit give & take!
Question: I'm running cup shocks with PMS solid topmounts & strut brace. I have a terrible memory, and can't for the life of me remember if I can take the complete strut off the car in one piece, or if I need to get the spring compressors on to remove the tension, and then take the shock out without the topmount. Which is correct??
2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter.
3)
5) Fit the Jon Foz subframe and dropping the steering column.
Mocked up the cooler, I've since made some ridiculous billet blocks to act as brackets, because why not?!
I've also been buying bits, so along with the 8AN fittings, Aeroquip hose etc, I've also ordered a set of Grams springs, and a Volantech cruise control steering wheel mounted panel. Tempted with that PMS rear ARB in the classifieds at the minute, but want to do one thing at once really.
As well as that, my birthday coincided with realising I needed to buy some tools that me and my Dad had been sharing whilst we shared a garage.
Any excuse (Wera fanboy)
Always fancied a battery ratchet so looking forward to breaking plenty of bolts with this!
Think it passed inspection
So to make it a neater list:
Maintenance/Mechanical bits
1) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter
2) Plumb in powersteering cooler, refill & bleed system.
3) Fit lowering springs
4) Fit Jon Foz seat subframe
Cosmetic/Fiddly bits
1) Fit gearbox driptray
2) Drop steering column
3) Fit Volantech cruise panel
4) Fit sunstrip
5) Decide if sunstrip looks w**k or not
6) Replace brake duct hose
I mainly made this post to ask a question, but thought I'd give you something to read so its a bit give & take!
Question: I'm running cup shocks with PMS solid topmounts & strut brace. I have a terrible memory, and can't for the life of me remember if I can take the complete strut off the car in one piece, or if I need to get the spring compressors on to remove the tension, and then take the shock out without the topmount. Which is correct??
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Update for the 2 people that read this!
Maintenance/Mechanical bits
1) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter
2) Plumb in powersteering cooler, refill & bleed system.
3a) Fit rear lowering springs
3b) Fit front lowering springs
4) Fit Jon Foz seat subframe
Cosmetic/Fiddly bits
1) Fit gearbox driptray
2) Drop steering column
3) Fit Volantech cruise panel
4) Fit sunstrip
5) Decide if sunstrip looks w**k or not
6) Replace brake duct hose
This is a bit of an anthology of the last few weeks when I remember to take photos.
First off, I had a proper go at polishing the headlights. They came up great. Not sure why I never got results like this before. I used a drill and a velcro foam backing pad, and 2" discs from 800grit up to 3000grit, the finished off with Mothers polish.
I've got some UV proof lacquer to finish them off too, but I bought some cutting compound (for another job on the daily driver) so fancy having another bash.
Next job was to sort out the powersteering cooler. Whilst the L brackets I used for the test fit/mock up, look a bit neater, I wanted to totally over engineer these mounts and have no chance of failure. It was enough of a pain getting the PAS pump changed etc that if something happened and I lost fluid and killed another pump I'd be furious :lol: so better safe than sorry! Made some mounts out of ally bar drilled and tapped.
I cut the PAS return to reservoir pipe just before the hardpipe section, and used some spare hose to catch the spillage drain it off.
I've used -8 Aeroquip hose, and push on fittings. That said, due to power steering issues being the bane of my life on track (cut short two trackdays) I've used jubilee clips as well. Most likely totally redundant, but like with the brackets, if something goes wrong I can rule out underengineering!
I've used a reducer on the pump return to the -8 cooler feed line, -8 right angle to -8 screw fitting to cooler core, then the reverse of that feeding to the other side of the return hardpipe up to the reservoir.
I've cable tied this to the fan shroud to avoid any fouling against the sensor plug/wiring.
Also, these fittings are a right b*****d to get into the hose. Saw a good tip on YouTube - soak the end of the hose in pan of boiling water.
Maintenance/Mechanical bits
2) Plumb in powersteering cooler, refill & bleed system.
3a) Fit rear lowering springs
3b) Fit front lowering springs
4) Fit Jon Foz seat subframe
Cosmetic/Fiddly bits
1) Fit gearbox driptray
2) Drop steering column
3) Fit Volantech cruise panel
4) Fit sunstrip
5) Decide if sunstrip looks w**k or not
This is a bit of an anthology of the last few weeks when I remember to take photos.
First off, I had a proper go at polishing the headlights. They came up great. Not sure why I never got results like this before. I used a drill and a velcro foam backing pad, and 2" discs from 800grit up to 3000grit, the finished off with Mothers polish.
I've got some UV proof lacquer to finish them off too, but I bought some cutting compound (for another job on the daily driver) so fancy having another bash.
Next job was to sort out the powersteering cooler. Whilst the L brackets I used for the test fit/mock up, look a bit neater, I wanted to totally over engineer these mounts and have no chance of failure. It was enough of a pain getting the PAS pump changed etc that if something happened and I lost fluid and killed another pump I'd be furious :lol: so better safe than sorry! Made some mounts out of ally bar drilled and tapped.
I cut the PAS return to reservoir pipe just before the hardpipe section, and used some spare hose to catch the spillage drain it off.
I've used -8 Aeroquip hose, and push on fittings. That said, due to power steering issues being the bane of my life on track (cut short two trackdays) I've used jubilee clips as well. Most likely totally redundant, but like with the brackets, if something goes wrong I can rule out underengineering!
I've used a reducer on the pump return to the -8 cooler feed line, -8 right angle to -8 screw fitting to cooler core, then the reverse of that feeding to the other side of the return hardpipe up to the reservoir.
I've cable tied this to the fan shroud to avoid any fouling against the sensor plug/wiring.
Also, these fittings are a right b*****d to get into the hose. Saw a good tip on YouTube - soak the end of the hose in pan of boiling water.
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Re-assembled and not looking like a scrapper for the first time in weeks!
A few days after that I decided to make a start fitting the new springs. Due to the way my brain works, my thought process goes:
'Should I start fitting the new springs?' -> 'Can I finish it today?' -> 'If no, don't bother'
But then I realise I've been doing that since February.
After remembering how simple the rears would be, I made a start last weekend.
Despite a generous application of WD40 a day prior, these were quite tight! I've finally ordered an impact wrench but its not due in till next week.
Looks like I need to add "brush the rear beam and apply some rust converter" to my to-do list!
Whoever mentioned on an older post that the springs drop out with a rather satisfying clang is 100% correct!
A few days after that I decided to make a start fitting the new springs. Due to the way my brain works, my thought process goes:
'Should I start fitting the new springs?' -> 'Can I finish it today?' -> 'If no, don't bother'
But then I realise I've been doing that since February.
After remembering how simple the rears would be, I made a start last weekend.
Despite a generous application of WD40 a day prior, these were quite tight! I've finally ordered an impact wrench but its not due in till next week.
Looks like I need to add "brush the rear beam and apply some rust converter" to my to-do list!
Whoever mentioned on an older post that the springs drop out with a rather satisfying clang is 100% correct!
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
I shouldn't love this colour as much as I do, but its almost a shame to hide them away!
I made sure this was properly seated after taking the pic.
Lowered the car off the stands and trolley jack and was a bit surprised at how high it sat.
Then I removed the handbrake and rolled it a few inches and it all got a bit more sensible.
I then looked up and noticed I had a hidden supervisor:
I also fitting a new slam panel/bonnet seal as the old one had split and was winding me up.
Hopefully tackling the front springs this weekend!
I made sure this was properly seated after taking the pic.
Lowered the car off the stands and trolley jack and was a bit surprised at how high it sat.
Then I removed the handbrake and rolled it a few inches and it all got a bit more sensible.
I then looked up and noticed I had a hidden supervisor:
I also fitting a new slam panel/bonnet seal as the old one had split and was winding me up.
Hopefully tackling the front springs this weekend!
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
One thing I did decide on, was that despite having some NASA spec heat proof sleeve for the aeroquip hose, I left it off as I could only see it being an absolute massive pain in the dick to slide on, and I hoped the cooler would reduce temps enough. Only time will tell!
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Be interesting to see if that PAS cooler makes a difference 
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Decided to tackle the fronts. Due to lack of use, the battery keeps dying. I'm in the process of adding an external socket to my house so I can keep it on a battery conditioner, but in the meantime I just have to chance it. This isn't normally an issue, but due to the fact I'd taken the fronts off the other day, it was on axle stands. and because of my drive setup (I won't bore you) it was nudged over to one side. This means the passenger door (i.e. the only place you can put the key) was up against the house, and I'm not built for sneaking into narrow spaces.
An outside tap in the kidney is a great motivator to try and find a different way of doing things.
I could get the passenger side unlocked, and the door open, but couldn't get myself into the car, and couldn't reach the bonnet release catch.
I then started angrily searching my garage for things the previous house owner had left behind that could be used to extend my reach.
Too flexible.
Mad telescopic loppers seemed like they'd work, but I couldn't get purchase with the hook.
Couldn't reach with this.
Was clutching at straws a bit with the rake.
And then, in a moment of anger fuelled A-Team inspired inventiveness, I present to you...
Super crowbar!
It worked!
I could the continue with refitting the struts.
Before:
After:
I'm planning on swapping to Koni adjustable shocks at the end of the year so not too concerned about the scruffiness of the shocks.
There's nothing like working with loads of room and easy access. And this is nothing like that.
An outside tap in the kidney is a great motivator to try and find a different way of doing things.
I could get the passenger side unlocked, and the door open, but couldn't get myself into the car, and couldn't reach the bonnet release catch.
I then started angrily searching my garage for things the previous house owner had left behind that could be used to extend my reach.
Too flexible.
Mad telescopic loppers seemed like they'd work, but I couldn't get purchase with the hook.
Couldn't reach with this.
Was clutching at straws a bit with the rake.
And then, in a moment of anger fuelled A-Team inspired inventiveness, I present to you...
Super crowbar!
It worked!
I could the continue with refitting the struts.
Before:
After:
I'm planning on swapping to Koni adjustable shocks at the end of the year so not too concerned about the scruffiness of the shocks.
There's nothing like working with loads of room and easy access. And this is nothing like that.
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
In. On. Reassembled.
Set the camber using the Eibach bolts. Sounds crude but I know that max camber is approx -2.5deg (Think its -2.4 one side and -2.5 the other), so set it to max. I've had it like this before and love how it drives.
Good to see it with some negative camer again! Needs some spacers but thats just me being a tart.
And if you'd like to pretend the 172 is in a 90s skating video:
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Maintenance/Mechanical bits
1) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter
2) Plumb in powersteering cooler, refill & bleed system.
3a) Fit rear lowering springs
3b) Fit front lowering springs
4) Fit Jon Foz seat subframe
Cosmetic/Fiddly bits
1) Fit gearbox driptray
2) Drop steering column
3) Fit Volantech cruise panel
4a) Fit sunstrip
4b) Decide if sunstrip looks w**k or not
5) Replace brake duct hose
I've not driven it since the above, but I've had it idling on the drive hoping it would put some juice in the battery. Not sure if it actually does (It didn't on my Impreza due to the "smart charging" system it had. But tried it anyway.
Bad news is the PAS pump is noisy again. Now I've not ran it without fluid, but the fluid did get VERY hot at Blyton last time, and I'm just hoping I've not killed another pump. I believe the system is self bleeding, so my plan is to use the Clio for a few days to commute in, get it some fuel, some injector cleaner and a good wash, and then see what its like.
2) Plumb in powersteering cooler, refill & bleed system.
3a) Fit rear lowering springs
3b) Fit front lowering springs
4) Fit Jon Foz seat subframe
Cosmetic/Fiddly bits
1) Fit gearbox driptray
2) Drop steering column
3) Fit Volantech cruise panel
4a) Fit sunstrip
4b) Decide if sunstrip looks w**k or not
I've not driven it since the above, but I've had it idling on the drive hoping it would put some juice in the battery. Not sure if it actually does (It didn't on my Impreza due to the "smart charging" system it had. But tried it anyway.
Bad news is the PAS pump is noisy again. Now I've not ran it without fluid, but the fluid did get VERY hot at Blyton last time, and I'm just hoping I've not killed another pump. I believe the system is self bleeding, so my plan is to use the Clio for a few days to commute in, get it some fuel, some injector cleaner and a good wash, and then see what its like.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
A very enjoyable update 
I hate that HPAS on track but overheating is substantially reduced if you use something like RED Line fluid.
I hate that HPAS on track but overheating is substantially reduced if you use something like RED Line fluid.
Good progress, I've fell foul of the car being locked and the passenger side against a wall
Also, you're missing the plate for the PMS top mounts. Please don't run them like that or the bolts will pull through the top of the turret and you'll die
Also, you're missing the plate for the PMS top mounts. Please don't run them like that or the bolts will pull through the top of the turret and you'll die
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Power steering pump is definitely too noisy to risk a trackday with, so I've ordered another. It's my own fault really, the course of events was:
Still looks a bit monster truck spec:
- Overheated the pump and boiled the fluid, running the reservoir dry and shagging the pump.
- Had the pump replaced, fresh fluid, and presumed I'd be sorted.
- Did Blyton Park and had the telltale whine, but it would go away when the fluid cooled, so took it easy and kept at it.
- Pump is now noisier than ever. So its getting binned and I'm getting my wrists slapped.
Still looks a bit monster truck spec:
Did you fit 2 springs?
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
To be honest its done very few miles since then. Literally single figures. Life has massively got in the way. However I put it on charge today and didn't remember it being massively high at the rear. Will take a pic when the specialist has finished her under bonnet checks:
Just seen it's on 15" wheels.
The only reason I ask is mine is on Gram's all round, but it's to low. I bought some Eibach Pro-line's to hopefully make it a more comfortable drive.
Tarticmonkey
ClioSport Club Member
CLIO 197 CUP,
Might be wrong but I would say inviting issues. I know you are like me and don't really drive your car too much on the road but the idea of Salt and water getting to a liver terminal would worry me about creating a short and making the chassis live or something stupid.
Just put an Anderson connector on if you want something external
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Right then, life has got in the way but I'm back, and wanting to get this back on the road.
As a reminder, this is what it should look like:
Started stripping down again to remove the pump. Can't remember why I took the headlights out, doesn't really give you any more room.
Whilst I was in there, I remembered the AC doesn't work, and as this is pretty much purely a track car now, get it in the bin! If it worked I would have kept it, but no point trying to repair 25 year old air con.
That's got to have saved some weight!
Also, look at how much room we now have for activities!
Plan is to run a Saab pulley with a spacer for a tensioner, rotate the alternator upwards, and hang it like the Cup setup, but using a rose jointed tie bar for tensioning purposes. Then get the old engineers string out and figure out a belt length and get something ordered!
Whilst dicking about with the AC I saw just how bad the condition of the radiator was. You could break off external bits of the corroded ally with your hands. I thought there's no better time than now to change the rad, so got one ordered.
Removed the old rad, then started to wonder how long it had been since the hoses were changed... Again "what better time than now?"...
This was approx May 2025, and the hose kit in black was on back order with most places until August. The project slowed down.
Then the hose kit arrived on time, but I had no motivation, no driving license, and no reason to carry on with the Clio, so it got shelved.
Fast forward to late 2025, my license returned, and then it was 'all systems go' to get my daily back on the road, so the focus was aimed at that instead.
I've also had some stuff to do on the house so didn't want to distract myself.
However now...... It's time to get it sorted!
I've got a million things to do to it, but the immediate goals are:
Fit pulley to the new PAS pump at correct spacing
Fit new PAS pump, mount alternator, and figure out the belt length.
Thinking access wise, its probably best to do the hoses next.
After that, fit the new radiator.
Then an MOT!
That's the main mechanical stuff - there's loads of tarting up to be done but no point doing that if its no radiator on it!
As a reminder, this is what it should look like:
Started stripping down again to remove the pump. Can't remember why I took the headlights out, doesn't really give you any more room.
Whilst I was in there, I remembered the AC doesn't work, and as this is pretty much purely a track car now, get it in the bin! If it worked I would have kept it, but no point trying to repair 25 year old air con.
That's got to have saved some weight!
Also, look at how much room we now have for activities!
Plan is to run a Saab pulley with a spacer for a tensioner, rotate the alternator upwards, and hang it like the Cup setup, but using a rose jointed tie bar for tensioning purposes. Then get the old engineers string out and figure out a belt length and get something ordered!
Whilst dicking about with the AC I saw just how bad the condition of the radiator was. You could break off external bits of the corroded ally with your hands. I thought there's no better time than now to change the rad, so got one ordered.
Removed the old rad, then started to wonder how long it had been since the hoses were changed... Again "what better time than now?"...
This was approx May 2025, and the hose kit in black was on back order with most places until August. The project slowed down.
Then the hose kit arrived on time, but I had no motivation, no driving license, and no reason to carry on with the Clio, so it got shelved.
Fast forward to late 2025, my license returned, and then it was 'all systems go' to get my daily back on the road, so the focus was aimed at that instead.
I've also had some stuff to do on the house so didn't want to distract myself.
However now...... It's time to get it sorted!
I've got a million things to do to it, but the immediate goals are:
Fit pulley to the new PAS pump at correct spacing
Fit new PAS pump, mount alternator, and figure out the belt length.
Thinking access wise, its probably best to do the hoses next.
After that, fit the new radiator.
Then an MOT!
That's the main mechanical stuff - there's loads of tarting up to be done but no point doing that if its no radiator on it!
JimF
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 172
Just to clarify my aux belt plans, this is the setup I'm copying (random pic from the interwebs). If I've not confused myself, I think this turns the water pump backwards but at no detriment to the engine. Unless I'm confusing it with a friends car. Its 18 months since I did all this research.
Also putting this here for my own resources lol
Also putting this here for my own resources lol
