Custom Brake Lines

[chrispy.clio]

I've quickly drawn a picture to see if this is the right set up to have to delete the ABS and make my own lines and bits.


The Bottom Black circles are the Front brakes
Top Black Circles are the rear brakes
Green Square is the 182 Master cylinder
Blue square with the circle on top is the bias Valve
The red T's are the T-pieces
and the Grey lines are the new braded lines

Is this a safe and correct set up?
​

 

[Riley!]

buy a proper cup

or just get a 172 cup set up

 

[chrispy.clio]

I have removed all the lines lol

I'm making all new braded lines with the bias valve so need to find out the correct way

 

[slindborg]

Yes thats how most setups of that ilk are done..... Personally I'd hard line it as far as possible but thats just me.

 

[chrispy.clio]

Why would you want to hard line it?

Braided lines run inside the car are fine and loads of race cars do it.

Want to do this but just cant quite see all the pipes and where they go.

 

[slindborg]

Partly prefer the 'look' of the hard lines, partly for packaging purposes (less rubbing from hard lines... braided hoses are like files), partly for weight (I cant imagine braided being that much, if at all lighter than hard). etc.

Plus you will ensure good pedal feel. Yes braided is amazing, but its still going to flex a bit.
Oh and its gonna be cheaper lol
As I say, I'd hard line it, but its not wrong to braided it all.

 

[chrispy.clio]

Meh, still gona get all braided as I can get all the bits 1/2 price

 

[slindborg]

Always a win. Make sure you get proper stainless fittings though as the nickels are dog turd

 

[TM.]

Good to see you're attacking it the right way! Is this for an all out track car, or a daily too?

 

[Fred@BTM]

looks like the same as my setup albeit mine is gangstered together with copper pipe

 

[chrispy.clio]

Always a win. Make sure you get proper stainless fittings though as the nickels are dog turd

Yeah every thing will be coming from Goodridge so will buy the proper bits

Good to see you're attacking it the right way! Is this for an all out track car, or a daily too?

The car has been a daily driver but is now just a track car and is being rebuilt over the winter ready for next years track day sl*gage.

looks like the same as my setup albeit mine is gangstered together with copper pipe

Oh right ok, so it looks right? Dont want make it wrong

 

[pug_92]

will there be a t piece for the front brakes? i thought there was 2 outlets on the master cylinder for the fronts and just 1 for the back. i haven't really bothered looking yet. i'l be doing the same running lines inside the car when i get my arse into gear and buy a hydraulic handbrake and bias valve.

what are you going to be using the car for? racing, trackdays etc.

just noticed the track sl*gage bit

 

[Tony Hunter]

We have also fitted the cup rear bias valve.

 

[pug_92]

We have also fitted the cup rear bias valve.

is it in the factory location/connected to anything. or somewhere you can adjust it while driving?

 

[Tony Hunter]

The one on the rear axle,but its not connected to anything so it doesn't alter when the body goes up and down,this is conjunction with an inline bias valve inside the car.

Our regs say we shouldn't be able to adjust the valve whilst driving so ours is fitted on the other side of the tunnel(nearside)

http://burpspeed.com/Burpspeed/Build/Entries/2010/1/3_Brake_Pipes.html

 

[Tony Hunter]

oops

 

[chrispy.clio]

Tony what problems did you/Jay have with the track car having deleted the ABS?

I'm a little unsure as to what the cup rear bias valve does?

The can the inline Wilwood bias valve that i'm getting not be able to adjust the bias enough to stop the rears from locking or the other way round?

 

[Tony Hunter]

We found the bias valve even fully off still let to much fluid through and we had to much braking at the rear,so we decided to install the cup compensating valve as well and this seems to have done the job.

We would really like to go none servo,but this would involve changing the pedal box and all that shiz and to be quite honest we've had enough with messing around and spending money on things that we really dont need to,where do you stop.The car works so we will leave it.

 

[chrispy.clio]

Thanks for the info, Could it have been a "cheap" bias valve which meant it didnt work as well as a Wilwood one for example?

Ok so i understand why you used a Cup compensating valve, was this used as a sort of T-peice for the rear?

So the line came from the Inline bias valve next to the driver into the Cup compensating valve and then split into 2 so one line went to each rear brake?

And also does the cup compensating valve need any electrics? or is it just machanical

(sorry for all the questions)

 

[Tony Hunter]

http://burpspeed.com/Burpspeed/Build/Entries/2010/1/3_Brake_Pipes.html
As you can see a tee piece was put in first as the load valve has a 2 in 2 out arrangement.

I don't know about it being a "cheap one" I don't think any bias valve will shut off completely.

Load valve needs no electrics,its just a mechanical device that infact is not connected to anything so is on minimum all the time.