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Titanium MrBlonde



Mr Underhill

ClioSport Club Member
Sounds about right, I believe the ast road set is 70/40 nm or 4kg at the back.
AST told me they’d run equal or higher spring rates at the back on the 5100 series. That was for a fast road set up with occasional track use. I went for 70/70 nm (7kg/7kg) but found them a bit too hard for daily use. Now they’re purely used for track, I’m on 9kg F and 100 kg rear. It’s superb.
 

MLB

ClioSport Club Member
Ah not sure then, they probably do different kits. I've got 70/40 ( I believe 😂), the same as the kit Pro Am are selling and think @frayz runs the same on his.

Works well enough either way and didn't feel any softer than the grams springs I had before.
 

Mr Underhill

ClioSport Club Member
Ah not sure then, they probably do different kits. I've got 70/40 ( I believe 😂), the same as the kit Pro Am are selling and think @frayz runs the same on his.

Works well enough either way and didn't feel any softer than the grams springs I had before.
Pro-am run 70 F 90 R. They used to run 90 F 110 R.
 

MLB

ClioSport Club Member
This kit is 70/40 as well, or are we talking about different kits?


Screenshot_20240824_173952_Chrome.jpg
 

JimF

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172
Not the same application, but when I bought the BCs for my Lexus the preload was set from the factory. But that didn't have a conversion element to it.
 

MrBlonde

ClioSport Club Member
Not the same application, but when I bought the BCs for my Lexus the preload was set from the factory. But that didn't have a conversion element to it.
Yep the fronts should be set from factory.But as ive done a full conversion on the rear,just something i questioned to myself.But i think they dont need to be,just in place so there just tight with no play.
 

plenty

ClioSport Club Member
Nice. 3D printed or did you buy the base caps off the shelf? Genuine Evo Corse caps aren't cheap and aren't particularly attractive imo, so looking for other options that fit the X3MA.
 

MrBlonde

ClioSport Club Member
So the Bc's have been on a couple of weeks now with no problems,i just need to dial in the damper settings.But not to worried at the moment as it will need alignment and will get Alex to corner weight it also at the same time.

I Have also started on the refurb of the spare rear beam i have.I have split it down ready to be blasted then powder coated.Also bought whiteline bushes.

Polish_20240915_155751235.jpg

Polish_20240915_155825112.jpg


While the old beam is off,i will tackle to tidy up the underneath with treating/sanding/grinding back any rust etc and a decent clean then treat with bilt hamber products along with stoneguard.

Any advice tips on the removing/fitting the rear beam?.

Also with treating the underneath?.
 

MLB

ClioSport Club Member
Something I'll need to do at some point as well. Need to sort a spare rear beam first though! Where did you get yours?

I would just use this as a step by step guide with pictures 👌
Back on the rear beam testing an area before plunging into the full restoration.

The beam’s pretty crusty so I removed all the crud with my small hammer, then gave it a wirebrush.

View attachment 1555071

Degreased the area with Bilt Hamber’s excellent Surfex-HD, then washed any residue with warm water.

View attachment 1555072
Applied a coating of Bilt Hamber’s DEOX-GEL with a brush then agitated this into the steel with a small wirebrush to keep the coating even.

View attachment 1555073
A few hours later the rust had pretty much gone although pitting is pretty heavy in places.

View attachment 1555074View attachment 1555075

Next up is a good coating of Bilt Hamber’s Hydrate-80 which will convert the rust and leave a nice coating over the steel. Starts out Blue and ends up a nice rich Black.

View attachment 1555076View attachment 1555077
Any heavy pitting is treated to a touch of plastic filler, then rubbed down and then coated with Bilt Hamber’s Electrox zinc primer.

View attachment 1555078View attachment 1555079
Once dry I’ll go over the beam with a few coats of primer and final top coat.

View attachment 1555081
I know people will be thinking, just take it to get powder coated, but in my experience it never lasts that long and rust starts coming through.

I think part of the reason is there’s a time delay between sandblasting and getting the steel into powder coating. So effectively they’re powder coating over steel that’s already started corroding. And it’s probably not commercially viable unless you’re in the restoration business.
 

MrBlonde

ClioSport Club Member
Something I'll need to do at some point as well. Need to sort a spare rear beam first though! Where did you get yours?

I would just use this as a step by step guide with pictures 👌

I bought it ages ago from someone on facebook i think if i can remember.Luckly i can shot blast it and powder coat it at work.Job to do over autumn
 
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MrBlonde

ClioSport Club Member
A Nice upgrade and maintance work im having done on the 182.Dropped off the clio a couple of weeks ago to Alex at Aw motorworks to have the following done.

•New clutch
•Gearbox rebuild
•New sump gasket
•New rear main crankseal
•New flywheel bolts
•Engine oil & Filter
•Gearbox oil

And a nice little upgrade of a Blackline LSD fitted also.

Alex took apart the gearbox and found that the gearbox was in pretty good shape apart from one bearing was starting to fall apart and the differential was showing signs of wear,hence why fitting a Blackline LSD.
Should have the clio back next week,just waiting on the machined crownwheel.

excited to see how different it will be with the LSD and gearbox work done.

Ive been starting on rebuilding the spare rear beam i have also,so will get the old one off over winter and treat all underneath with bilt hamber products.

If anyone else has rebuilt there rear beam and also treated underneath and can recommend any products,tips etc that would great please.
 

gudger12345

ClioSport Club Member
  Ph1 172
A Nice upgrade and maintance work im having done on the 182.Dropped off the clio a couple of weeks ago to Alex at Aw motorworks to have the following done.

•New clutch
•Gearbox rebuild
•New sump gasket
•New rear main crankseal
•New flywheel bolts
•Engine oil & Filter
•Gearbox oil

And a nice little upgrade of a Blackline LSD fitted also.

Alex took apart the gearbox and found that the gearbox was in pretty good shape apart from one bearing was starting to fall apart and the differential was showing signs of wear,hence why fitting a Blackline LSD.
Should have the clio back next week,just waiting on the machined crownwheel.

excited to see how different it will be with the LSD and gearbox work done.

Ive been starting on rebuilding the spare rear beam i have also,so will get the old one off over winter and treat all underneath with bilt hamber products.

If anyone else has rebuilt there rear beam and also treated underneath and can recommend any products,tips etc that would great please.
Let me know how it drives with the Blackline LSD as i have one to fit, also keen to hear about the underside resto products as i am doing the same to my ph1 ready for spring next year.
 

MrBlonde

ClioSport Club Member
Let me know how it drives with the Blackline LSD as i have one to fit, also keen to hear about the underside resto products as i am doing the same to my ph1 ready for spring next year.
Will do mate,hopefully get to take it out this sat after i have gave it a decent clean.I have been looking at @RustyMojo thread to guide me on this part.Started on the beam,so once thats done will get the old one off.

Absolutely love this car! Sits perfect on the new coilovers (y)
Thank you very much @Jamess182 👍🏻
 

MrBlonde

ClioSport Club Member
Went out for a little drive today being a nice sunny day.First time ive taken the clio out since having all that work done and drives great!.

Along with doing the rear beam and underside i will be giving the engine bay a freshen up.

•Nimbus along the bulkhead and brake res
•New HT leads
•New spark plugs
•New inlet gaskets

I will paint both inlets,crash bar that covers injectors,engine mount cam cover area and ecu cover

Engine is now leak free after seals,sump gasket done.Its just tried looking and bit dusty etc.

Thinking to do all parts silver or in satin black or even an anthracite.

Photos of others engine bays would be great to see what others have done with colours,nimbus etc

20241027_114726.jpg


And of course a couple of photos from today.

1000019893.jpg
1000019900.jpg
 

Mr Underhill

ClioSport Club Member
I just aqua-blasted the alloys and tried to keep it OEM. It needs a refresh after over three years of use, but it's still looking decent.

I lost that little plastic piece on the slam panel where the bonnet catch meets it. It's annoying me now.

IMG_2913.jpg
 


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