Titanium MrBlonde

[MLB]

Sounds about right, I believe the ast road set is 70/40 nm or 4kg at the back.

 

[Mr Underhill]

Sounds about right, I believe the ast road set is 70/40 nm or 4kg at the back.

AST told me they’d run equal or higher spring rates at the back on the 5100 series. That was for a fast road set up with occasional track use. I went for 70/70 nm (7kg/7kg) but found them a bit too hard for daily use. Now they’re purely used for track, I’m on 9kg F and 100 kg rear. It’s superb.

 

[MLB]

Ah not sure then, they probably do different kits. I've got 70/40 ( I believe 😂), the same as the kit Pro Am are selling and think @frayz runs the same on his.

Works well enough either way and didn't feel any softer than the grams springs I had before.

 

[Mr Underhill]

Ah not sure then, they probably do different kits. I've got 70/40 ( I believe 😂), the same as the kit Pro Am are selling and think @frayz runs the same on his.

Works well enough either way and didn't feel any softer than the grams springs I had before.

Pro-am run 70 F 90 R. They used to run 90 F 110 R.

 

[MLB]

This kit is 70/40 as well, or are we talking about different kits?

https://www.proamracing.co.uk/product-page/clio-2-ast-5100-series-1-way-coilover-kit

 

[Mr Underhill]

This kit is 70/40 as well, or are we talking about different kits?

https://www.proamracing.co.uk/product-page/clio-2-ast-5100-series-1-way-coilover-kit

View attachment 1707998

Sorry I was talking track 🤦🏻‍♂️

 

[MrBlonde]

New set up has arrived!.just waiting on the rear damper conversion kit.Hopefully tomorrow

•BC BR Coilovers
•Custom Coilover covers
•Rear Damper conversion kit

 

[Mr Underhill]

Lovely!

 

[MrBlonde]

All put together now,just to fit onto the clio and set height.

With being a full coilover on the rear now,do they still have to be pre loaded?

 

[JimF]

Not the same application, but when I bought the BCs for my Lexus the preload was set from the factory. But that didn't have a conversion element to it.

 

[MrBlonde]

Not the same application, but when I bought the BCs for my Lexus the preload was set from the factory. But that didn't have a conversion element to it.

Yep the fronts should be set from factory.But as ive done a full conversion on the rear,just something i questioned to myself.But i think they dont need to be,just in place so there just tight with no play.

 

[plenty]

Custom Centre Caps
View attachment 1702717

May I ask where did you source these, please?

 

[MrBlonde]

May I ask where did you source these, please?

I made and painted them mate

 

[plenty]

Nice. 3D printed or did you buy the base caps off the shelf? Genuine Evo Corse caps aren't cheap and aren't particularly attractive imo, so looking for other options that fit the X3MA.

 

[MrBlonde]

No not 3D printed,i bought the proper evo caps as they fit nice and wont come out.Then made up rest with renault badges @plenty

 

[MrBlonde]

So the Bc's have been on a couple of weeks now with no problems,i just need to dial in the damper settings.But not to worried at the moment as it will need alignment and will get Alex to corner weight it also at the same time.

I Have also started on the refurb of the spare rear beam i have.I have split it down ready to be blasted then powder coated.Also bought whiteline bushes.

While the old beam is off,i will tackle to tidy up the underneath with treating/sanding/grinding back any rust etc and a decent clean then treat with bilt hamber products along with stoneguard.

Any advice tips on the removing/fitting the rear beam?.

Also with treating the underneath?.

 

[MLB]

Something I'll need to do at some point as well. Need to sort a spare rear beam first though! Where did you get yours?

I would just use this as a step by step guide with pictures 👌

Back on the rear beam testing an area before plunging into the full restoration.

The beam’s pretty crusty so I removed all the crud with my small hammer, then gave it a wirebrush.

View attachment 1555071

Degreased the area with Bilt Hamber’s excellent Surfex-HD, then washed any residue with warm water.

View attachment 1555072
Applied a coating of Bilt Hamber’s DEOX-GEL with a brush then agitated this into the steel with a small wirebrush to keep the coating even.

View attachment 1555073
A few hours later the rust had pretty much gone although pitting is pretty heavy in places.

View attachment 1555074View attachment 1555075

Next up is a good coating of Bilt Hamber’s Hydrate-80 which will convert the rust and leave a nice coating over the steel. Starts out Blue and ends up a nice rich Black.

View attachment 1555076View attachment 1555077
Any heavy pitting is treated to a touch of plastic filler, then rubbed down and then coated with Bilt Hamber’s Electrox zinc primer.

View attachment 1555078View attachment 1555079
Once dry I’ll go over the beam with a few coats of primer and final top coat.

View attachment 1555081
I know people will be thinking, just take it to get powder coated, but in my experience it never lasts that long and rust starts coming through.

I think part of the reason is there’s a time delay between sandblasting and getting the steel into powder coating. So effectively they’re powder coating over steel that’s already started corroding. And it’s probably not commercially viable unless you’re in the restoration business.

 

[MrBlonde]

Something I'll need to do at some point as well. Need to sort a spare rear beam first though! Where did you get yours?

I would just use this as a step by step guide with pictures 👌

I bought it ages ago from someone on facebook i think if i can remember.Luckly i can shot blast it and powder coat it at work.Job to do over autumn

 

[MrBlonde]

Been out a few times now since the BC's were fitted.Drives great now and think i have the damper settings suited to how i want them for on the road.Sits Great i have got to say.

 

[BREMBO]

That looks superb 👌

 

[MrBlonde]

A Nice upgrade and maintance work im having done on the 182.Dropped off the clio a couple of weeks ago to Alex at Aw motorworks to have the following done.

•New clutch
•Gearbox rebuild
•New sump gasket
•New rear main crankseal
•New flywheel bolts
•Engine oil & Filter
•Gearbox oil

And a nice little upgrade of a Blackline LSD fitted also.

Alex took apart the gearbox and found that the gearbox was in pretty good shape apart from one bearing was starting to fall apart and the differential was showing signs of wear,hence why fitting a Blackline LSD.
Should have the clio back next week,just waiting on the machined crownwheel.

excited to see how different it will be with the LSD and gearbox work done.

Ive been starting on rebuilding the spare rear beam i have also,so will get the old one off over winter and treat all underneath with bilt hamber products.

If anyone else has rebuilt there rear beam and also treated underneath and can recommend any products,tips etc that would great please.

 

[gudger12345]

A Nice upgrade and maintance work im having done on the 182.Dropped off the clio a couple of weeks ago to Alex at Aw motorworks to have the following done.

•New clutch
•Gearbox rebuild
•New sump gasket
•New rear main crankseal
•New flywheel bolts
•Engine oil & Filter
•Gearbox oil

And a nice little upgrade of a Blackline LSD fitted also.

Alex took apart the gearbox and found that the gearbox was in pretty good shape apart from one bearing was starting to fall apart and the differential was showing signs of wear,hence why fitting a Blackline LSD.
Should have the clio back next week,just waiting on the machined crownwheel.

excited to see how different it will be with the LSD and gearbox work done.

Ive been starting on rebuilding the spare rear beam i have also,so will get the old one off over winter and treat all underneath with bilt hamber products.

If anyone else has rebuilt there rear beam and also treated underneath and can recommend any products,tips etc that would great please.

Let me know how it drives with the Blackline LSD as i have one to fit, also keen to hear about the underside resto products as i am doing the same to my ph1 ready for spring next year.

 

[Jamess182]

Absolutely love this car! Sits perfect on the new coilovers

 

[MrBlonde]

Let me know how it drives with the Blackline LSD as i have one to fit, also keen to hear about the underside resto products as i am doing the same to my ph1 ready for spring next year.

Will do mate,hopefully get to take it out this sat after i have gave it a decent clean.I have been looking at @RustyMojo thread to guide me on this part.Started on the beam,so once thats done will get the old one off.

Absolutely love this car! Sits perfect on the new coilovers

Thank you very much @Jamess182 👍🏻

 

[MrBlonde]

Went out for a little drive today being a nice sunny day.First time ive taken the clio out since having all that work done and drives great!.

Along with doing the rear beam and underside i will be giving the engine bay a freshen up.

•Nimbus along the bulkhead and brake res
•New HT leads
•New spark plugs
•New inlet gaskets

I will paint both inlets,crash bar that covers injectors,engine mount cam cover area and ecu cover

Engine is now leak free after seals,sump gasket done.Its just tried looking and bit dusty etc.

Thinking to do all parts silver or in satin black or even an anthracite.

Photos of others engine bays would be great to see what others have done with colours,nimbus etc

And of course a couple of photos from today.

 

[Jekyll]

Awesome stuff Steve. Good to rear it's great. Must feel like a different car now with the BCs dialed in and the doff done, etc.

Also, go silver in the engine bay. Always looks so clean I think.

 

[Mr Underhill]

I just aqua-blasted the alloys and tried to keep it OEM. It needs a refresh after over three years of use, but it's still looking decent.

I lost that little plastic piece on the slam panel where the bonnet catch meets it. It's annoying me now.

 

[MrBlonde]

Awesome stuff Steve. Good to rear it's great. Must feel like a different car now with the BCs dialed in and the doff done, etc.

Also, go silver in the engine bay. Always looks so clean I think.

View attachment 1716577

Just needs alignment doing and will get it corner weighed also,but after ive done the rear beam etc.

But yeah silver looks clean,may do a satin silver were see.

 

[MrBlonde]

Started on rebuilding the spare rear beam and once done i was planning on fitting the PMS rear arb i have along with the whiteline poly bushes.

My question is,is it worth fitting the rear arb when im going to have the clio corner weighed just for road use?.as i know the whiteline rarb is an easy fit and to take off,where the pms is not if i decided i dont want it on after fitting.

 

[frayz]

Personally I much preferred the design and location of the PMS bar. The Whiteline always looks like a cheap afterthought IMO.
Just my thoughts, entirely your choice mate.
The WL is certainly much easier to remove at a later date.

Maybe ask yourself what you want from the car and if you feel you need it anyway?

If you’re rebuilding a rear beam, why not get the PMS strengthening plates welded in first and it’s likely that will stiffen the beam enough to negate the need for either ARB.

 

[MrBlonde]

Yep the pms is much better kit but,more agg to remove if i dont want it on anymore.But the plates have crossed my mind,so may look into that and just sell the pms arb.

Or once corner weighed that maybe good enough for me for on the road and not have a rear arb at all.

 

[frayz]

Personally if you’re going to the effort to overhaul a beam. That’s the way I’d go. Less stuff hanging off the car too.