AST told me they’d run equal or higher spring rates at the back on the 5100 series. That was for a fast road set up with occasional track use. I went for 70/70 nm (7kg/7kg) but found them a bit too hard for daily use. Now they’re purely used for track, I’m on 9kg F and 100 kg rear. It’s superb.Sounds about right, I believe the ast road set is 70/40 nm or 4kg at the back.
Pro-am run 70 F 90 R. They used to run 90 F 110 R.Ah not sure then, they probably do different kits. I've got 70/40 ( I believe 😂), the same as the kit Pro Am are selling and think @frayz runs the same on his.
Works well enough either way and didn't feel any softer than the grams springs I had before.
Sorry I was talking track 🤦🏻♂️
Yep the fronts should be set from factory.But as ive done a full conversion on the rear,just something i questioned to myself.But i think they dont need to be,just in place so there just tight with no play.Not the same application, but when I bought the BCs for my Lexus the preload was set from the factory. But that didn't have a conversion element to it.
May I ask where did you source these, please?Custom Centre Caps
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I made and painted them mateMay I ask where did you source these, please?
Back on the rear beam testing an area before plunging into the full restoration.
The beam’s pretty crusty so I removed all the crud with my small hammer, then gave it a wirebrush.
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Degreased the area with Bilt Hamber’s excellent Surfex-HD, then washed any residue with warm water.
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Applied a coating of Bilt Hamber’s DEOX-GEL with a brush then agitated this into the steel with a small wirebrush to keep the coating even.
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A few hours later the rust had pretty much gone although pitting is pretty heavy in places.
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Next up is a good coating of Bilt Hamber’s Hydrate-80 which will convert the rust and leave a nice coating over the steel. Starts out Blue and ends up a nice rich Black.
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Any heavy pitting is treated to a touch of plastic filler, then rubbed down and then coated with Bilt Hamber’s Electrox zinc primer.
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Once dry I’ll go over the beam with a few coats of primer and final top coat.
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I know people will be thinking, just take it to get powder coated, but in my experience it never lasts that long and rust starts coming through.
I think part of the reason is there’s a time delay between sandblasting and getting the steel into powder coating. So effectively they’re powder coating over steel that’s already started corroding. And it’s probably not commercially viable unless you’re in the restoration business.
Something I'll need to do at some point as well. Need to sort a spare rear beam first though! Where did you get yours?
I would just use this as a step by step guide with pictures 👌
Let me know how it drives with the Blackline LSD as i have one to fit, also keen to hear about the underside resto products as i am doing the same to my ph1 ready for spring next year.A Nice upgrade and maintance work im having done on the 182.Dropped off the clio a couple of weeks ago to Alex at Aw motorworks to have the following done.
•New clutch
•Gearbox rebuild
•New sump gasket
•New rear main crankseal
•New flywheel bolts
•Engine oil & Filter
•Gearbox oil
And a nice little upgrade of a Blackline LSD fitted also.
Alex took apart the gearbox and found that the gearbox was in pretty good shape apart from one bearing was starting to fall apart and the differential was showing signs of wear,hence why fitting a Blackline LSD.
Should have the clio back next week,just waiting on the machined crownwheel.
excited to see how different it will be with the LSD and gearbox work done.
Ive been starting on rebuilding the spare rear beam i have also,so will get the old one off over winter and treat all underneath with bilt hamber products.
If anyone else has rebuilt there rear beam and also treated underneath and can recommend any products,tips etc that would great please.
Will do mate,hopefully get to take it out this sat after i have gave it a decent clean.I have been looking at @RustyMojo thread to guide me on this part.Started on the beam,so once thats done will get the old one off.Let me know how it drives with the Blackline LSD as i have one to fit, also keen to hear about the underside resto products as i am doing the same to my ph1 ready for spring next year.
Thank you very much @Jamess182 👍🏻Absolutely love this car! Sits perfect on the new coilovers
Awesome stuff Steve. Good to rear it's great. Must feel like a different car now with the BCs dialed in and the doff done, etc.
Also, go silver in the engine bay. Always looks so clean I think.
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Best brackets ever made on those ones too.But the ones from @Louis
I'll probably clean them up some more this weekend and take proper pictures as they look w**k in the photosBut the ones from @Louis
Was thinking silver as good contrast with the wheel colour,then black logo.Black with silver logo would look nice and subtle I think.