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Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)
- Thread starter Brigsy
- Start date
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Had last week off work so cracked on fitting the new g25 660 turbo setup.
To recap mocked up on the spare engine.
Started by stripping the 20t hybrid, manifold and downpipe off, oil feed and return removed. Plenty of room with scuttle removed. Turbo first, then manifold, then downpipe out via the top.
Fitting the new setup was reverse of the above. Oil feed in, downpipe in then manifold, external wastegate on then turbo.
External wastegate in situ. Fiddly to fit even though on vbands.
Starter motor heatshield was tight and required a bit of clearance adding with deadblow hammer to clear number 1 exhaust runner. From what ive seen a few people dont refit it, but we do stuff right here.
Oil return fitted. Its tight but adequate clearance off downpipe. Might wrap the last bit of the downpipe for added heatproofing
With that done onto boost hose and coolant lines. Trimmed a 90deg silicone hose and the coolant lines are plug and play.
Next job airfilter/induction. 70mm 45deg silicone hose trimmed and 45deg alloy pipe cut to fit. New ramair filter to suit larger bore
With that done i offered the scuttle panel up. Plenty of room.
Mac valve fitted in preperation for Ecumaster Black. Opted to bolt to the scuttle as no optimal place on engine, and the an line is not very flexible but necessary for heat protection.
Done.
Primed up oil system with coils and injectors unplugged, with turbo oil feed into a bottle to check flow. All good, fitted to turbo and primed turbo with more cranking. Reconnected injectors and coils and hit the switch.
Fired straight up, check for leaks and none. Sounds totally different to the stock manifold/hybrid.
Around 1.5days of work steady away, so not too bad to do.
WIth that done, taxed and out for a test run.
Test drive went well, heat wrap on downpipe smoked like fcuk for a bit but sorted itself out fast. As im on the old map for the hybrid, i cant give it much stick but it spools well and is responsive, seen 7psi around 3500rpm iirc.
In the words of the mrs, it sounds unbelievable. Worth doing for the sound alone.
Ive done 50 or so miles and no issues. Onto ph2 which is ecumaster black install and modified inlet. Aiming for mapping in 6-8 weeks.
Thanks for reading!!
Had last week off work so cracked on fitting the new g25 660 turbo setup.
To recap mocked up on the spare engine.
Started by stripping the 20t hybrid, manifold and downpipe off, oil feed and return removed. Plenty of room with scuttle removed. Turbo first, then manifold, then downpipe out via the top.
Fitting the new setup was reverse of the above. Oil feed in, downpipe in then manifold, external wastegate on then turbo.
External wastegate in situ. Fiddly to fit even though on vbands.
Starter motor heatshield was tight and required a bit of clearance adding with deadblow hammer to clear number 1 exhaust runner. From what ive seen a few people dont refit it, but we do stuff right here.
Oil return fitted. Its tight but adequate clearance off downpipe. Might wrap the last bit of the downpipe for added heatproofing
With that done onto boost hose and coolant lines. Trimmed a 90deg silicone hose and the coolant lines are plug and play.
Next job airfilter/induction. 70mm 45deg silicone hose trimmed and 45deg alloy pipe cut to fit. New ramair filter to suit larger bore
With that done i offered the scuttle panel up. Plenty of room.
Mac valve fitted in preperation for Ecumaster Black. Opted to bolt to the scuttle as no optimal place on engine, and the an line is not very flexible but necessary for heat protection.
Done.
Primed up oil system with coils and injectors unplugged, with turbo oil feed into a bottle to check flow. All good, fitted to turbo and primed turbo with more cranking. Reconnected injectors and coils and hit the switch.
Fired straight up, check for leaks and none. Sounds totally different to the stock manifold/hybrid.
Around 1.5days of work steady away, so not too bad to do.
WIth that done, taxed and out for a test run.
Test drive went well, heat wrap on downpipe smoked like fcuk for a bit but sorted itself out fast. As im on the old map for the hybrid, i cant give it much stick but it spools well and is responsive, seen 7psi around 3500rpm iirc.
In the words of the mrs, it sounds unbelievable. Worth doing for the sound alone.
Ive done 50 or so miles and no issues. Onto ph2 which is ecumaster black install and modified inlet. Aiming for mapping in 6-8 weeks.
Thanks for reading!!
Last edited:
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Made a start on the Ecumaster black wiring. 3 years ago i bought a RRR clio 197 pnp adaptor and a few bits.
197 clio wiring is pretty close to meg2rs but different at the same time. I looked at loom options and considered fitting the 197 engine loom, but would need rewiring at the upc plugs to suit megane upc and boost solenoid wiring. Meg 2 loom needed vvt and cam sensor wiring adding, and loom thinning out a bit to remove wiring not needed. As i have a few meg looms here seemed like modding one was the obvious solution.
After digging out all the parts and examining the pnp adaptor to see it was potted on the connection side, meant simply adding or removing wires would not be possible. Also i had no map to see how the inputs and outputs had been setup, or idea on how the pnp was wired so had to validate all connections. A few hours of tracing what goes where was necessary to avoid any future aggro. Probably should have just built a new loom from fresh as would have took the same amount of time but nevermind..
Simple stuff just time consuming.
I depinned and swapped a few wires about in the oem ecu connectors, moving the megane n75/boost controller wiring to a spare aux that was wired in the adaptor. Oem map sensor wiring is not used so the 3x wires have been repurposed/ repinned for cam sensor. The upstream lambda wiring has been repurposed/pinned to suit the vvt solenoid as again not used as running lsu 4.9 wideband lambda straight to ecu.
Also binned oem coil wiring as i have a subloom for Audi r8 coils wired to individual coil outputs. This is much better than the oem coils that are wired in series, which divides the total voltage across them, increases total resistance, and maintains the same current through each component hence giving a shitter spark / small spark plug gaps required. Oem meg coils are also pretty crap when wired up individually where r8 are good for a lot of boost.
Enough tech anyway - a few pics
All oem tape removed to check loom condition, and retaped in tesa cloth tape.
Done a load of connections including 4 way splice for coil power. Dual wall glued heatshrink makes a solid connection.
Its pretty much finished. Throttle body needs wiring, was unsure on length required so will do it in situ. Neutral switch wiring and reverse light switch to sort, i need to repurpose the connector for reverse switch off the current loom.
Will make a start on fitting in the next few days. Ill need front end off to fit modified inlet and larger throttle, 870cc bosch motorsport injectors, bosch wideband knock sensor etc.
Thanks for reading!!
Made a start on the Ecumaster black wiring. 3 years ago i bought a RRR clio 197 pnp adaptor and a few bits.
197 clio wiring is pretty close to meg2rs but different at the same time. I looked at loom options and considered fitting the 197 engine loom, but would need rewiring at the upc plugs to suit megane upc and boost solenoid wiring. Meg 2 loom needed vvt and cam sensor wiring adding, and loom thinning out a bit to remove wiring not needed. As i have a few meg looms here seemed like modding one was the obvious solution.
After digging out all the parts and examining the pnp adaptor to see it was potted on the connection side, meant simply adding or removing wires would not be possible. Also i had no map to see how the inputs and outputs had been setup, or idea on how the pnp was wired so had to validate all connections. A few hours of tracing what goes where was necessary to avoid any future aggro. Probably should have just built a new loom from fresh as would have took the same amount of time but nevermind..
Simple stuff just time consuming.
I depinned and swapped a few wires about in the oem ecu connectors, moving the megane n75/boost controller wiring to a spare aux that was wired in the adaptor. Oem map sensor wiring is not used so the 3x wires have been repurposed/ repinned for cam sensor. The upstream lambda wiring has been repurposed/pinned to suit the vvt solenoid as again not used as running lsu 4.9 wideband lambda straight to ecu.
Also binned oem coil wiring as i have a subloom for Audi r8 coils wired to individual coil outputs. This is much better than the oem coils that are wired in series, which divides the total voltage across them, increases total resistance, and maintains the same current through each component hence giving a shitter spark / small spark plug gaps required. Oem meg coils are also pretty crap when wired up individually where r8 are good for a lot of boost.
Enough tech anyway - a few pics
All oem tape removed to check loom condition, and retaped in tesa cloth tape.
Done a load of connections including 4 way splice for coil power. Dual wall glued heatshrink makes a solid connection.
Its pretty much finished. Throttle body needs wiring, was unsure on length required so will do it in situ. Neutral switch wiring and reverse light switch to sort, i need to repurpose the connector for reverse switch off the current loom.
Will make a start on fitting in the next few days. Ill need front end off to fit modified inlet and larger throttle, 870cc bosch motorsport injectors, bosch wideband knock sensor etc.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates..
Made a start on fitting the loom today. Bumper etc off.
I was avoiding taking the front off fully, but for how long it takes it was a no brainer. Access is 10x better.
Got the inlet off etc. When removing the fuel pipe from the rail it was still pressured uo from running yesterday, the fuel system is good on this. I then stripped out the loom and a few sensors, and started fitting the new parts. Wideband bosch knock sensor, lsu 4.9 wideband lambda and newly modified wiring back in the hole.
Offered up the R8 coils and they wont fit with the 250 breather plate, so will need to change that for a pms one, same as i run on my clio trophy.
Half decent start for 4 hours work.
Thanks for reading!!
Made a start on fitting the loom today. Bumper etc off.
I was avoiding taking the front off fully, but for how long it takes it was a no brainer. Access is 10x better.
Got the inlet off etc. When removing the fuel pipe from the rail it was still pressured uo from running yesterday, the fuel system is good on this. I then stripped out the loom and a few sensors, and started fitting the new parts. Wideband bosch knock sensor, lsu 4.9 wideband lambda and newly modified wiring back in the hole.
Offered up the R8 coils and they wont fit with the 250 breather plate, so will need to change that for a pms one, same as i run on my clio trophy.
Half decent start for 4 hours work.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers mate, getting there slowly.
My hard pipe kit is an old forge one chopped about. Id like something a bit better eventually, but can wait a bit. If i do a new intercooler setup ill get something fabricated.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Had a spare hour or so yesterday so got a bit more done.
Annoyingly id forgot to drill and tap the modified inlet for the bolt to the top engine mount. A lot of people dont bother but we do stuff right here.
With this done i could refit the modified 250 inlet. Before fitting, i renewed the cam sensor for a new one as due to location on 197 head, it needs to go on before the inlet. Dug out the bosch motorsport 870cc flow matched injectors i bought a few weeks ago, to replace the 630cc siemens deka that i pretty much maxed out with the old hybrid 20t.
870cc will have plenty of headroom on this setup. I was going to use 730cc but hard to find flowmatched, bosch supply them within 7% tolerance from factory which is dogshit🤣
Inlet fitted, new oem gasket to head torqued to spec and 870cc injectors fitted, wiring routed with cam sensor and vvt solenoid connected.
Note breather plate removed off the cam cover. I offered up the R8 coils last week, and they would not locate properly on the spark plug with the extra height of the breather plate. Options were oem 197 or r26 breather plate or pms as it works on my trophy. Pms it is.
Sexy billet machined alloy with baffle. Would have preferred silver but they only do black anodized now. Looks good so not messing about painting, on it goes.
R8 coils fitted for all the spark.
Throttle body needed a gasket before fitting. Oem 250 gasket no good as hole is too small, so dug the gasket paper out. I initially struggled to find my sheet of gasket paper, it almost got the cornflakes box which has served well in the past when in need🤣
Tap tap tap, cut cut cut. Close enough.
Throttle body fitted and boost hoses offered up. F4r is not a pretty engine, but in my opinion it looks far better than oem with a few bits done.
If all goes well i should be on for a start at some point in the next few days. Until then, more work to be done.
Thanks for reading!!
Had a spare hour or so yesterday so got a bit more done.
Annoyingly id forgot to drill and tap the modified inlet for the bolt to the top engine mount. A lot of people dont bother but we do stuff right here.
With this done i could refit the modified 250 inlet. Before fitting, i renewed the cam sensor for a new one as due to location on 197 head, it needs to go on before the inlet. Dug out the bosch motorsport 870cc flow matched injectors i bought a few weeks ago, to replace the 630cc siemens deka that i pretty much maxed out with the old hybrid 20t.
870cc will have plenty of headroom on this setup. I was going to use 730cc but hard to find flowmatched, bosch supply them within 7% tolerance from factory which is dogshit🤣
Inlet fitted, new oem gasket to head torqued to spec and 870cc injectors fitted, wiring routed with cam sensor and vvt solenoid connected.
Note breather plate removed off the cam cover. I offered up the R8 coils last week, and they would not locate properly on the spark plug with the extra height of the breather plate. Options were oem 197 or r26 breather plate or pms as it works on my trophy. Pms it is.
Sexy billet machined alloy with baffle. Would have preferred silver but they only do black anodized now. Looks good so not messing about painting, on it goes.
R8 coils fitted for all the spark.
Throttle body needed a gasket before fitting. Oem 250 gasket no good as hole is too small, so dug the gasket paper out. I initially struggled to find my sheet of gasket paper, it almost got the cornflakes box which has served well in the past when in need🤣
Tap tap tap, cut cut cut. Close enough.
Throttle body fitted and boost hoses offered up. F4r is not a pretty engine, but in my opinion it looks far better than oem with a few bits done.
If all goes well i should be on for a start at some point in the next few days. Until then, more work to be done.
Thanks for reading!!
Last edited:
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates. Big ones.
Had a few hours spare back end of last week. Rolled the Kangoo out the garage as weather finally decent, and access required to passenger side.
1st job was replace top radiator hose. I had noticed a slight split in the one that was fitted when fitting the turbo kit. New old stock oem hose sourced.
Hose split visible. Doesnt look too bad but almost through.
Next job was fitting usb cable to ecu and fitting ecumaster edl-1 datalogger. This was centre console out and glovebox etc, routing wire through bulkhead. Couple of hours work for a tidy install.
With that done it was time to finish the wiring. Throttle plug needed wiring in, and once id found a good route for the wiring, i knew what length was required. Crimped and dual wall glued heatshrink gives a solid connection.
Also done mac valve and logger connections. With that done the loom was finally complete, I then offered up the battery tray to see how it all fitted.
The larger throttle body made routing the wiring to ecu and battery difficult as it was very tight beforehand and adding a larger silicone hose took the available room. The plastic battery tray was offered up and trimmed to suit.
I then fitted the ecu adaptor loom and ecu in the oem location, with a rivnut securing the ecu tonthe back of the battery tray.
With this done i connected the battery up and energized the ecu. The ecu powered up all good and ecu connected to laptop fine, radiator fan singing away as not configured.
With coils and injectors unplugged, uploaded the modified base map that i have been working on to suit this setup. Looked at sensor data and coolant temp, air temp etc looked good/as expected.
I then ran the dbw throttle calibration tool to set the bosch motorsport throttle up as no pre defined calibrations for the part number i am using. Throttle calibrated fine and operation checked.
I then cranked the engine over on the starter motor to check crank and cam triggers would read and sync.
Checking the logs, all good and both sync fine. No point in messing about, connected coils and injectors and cranked the engine. A few coughs but no start, sounded like it was trying on one or 2 cylinders..
Done some basic checks to ensure coils had power etc. All good so asked Sebimotorsport to check injector phase and firing order were correct. My pnp adaptor ign outputs have been wired a bit different to expected so needed a couple of changes, and tps inputs needed switching on the software. A few attempts later and it fired up running ok on all cylinders. Not the clean start i wanted but close enough. Could tell the map was way off, idling low etc but running.
By this time id pissed the neighbours off enough with noise as it was 9pm on Sat so asked Sebi if he had availability to remote in for cold start and 3500rpm base map to make it drivable up to 70mph to get to the dyno. He said yes 10am Sunday morning. This was goos but I still had no front end on the kangoo so had to quickly refit that and get it in a drivable state. Slight trimming to slam panel for throttle but all went together easy enough.
Sunday comes and its pissing down.
Sebi takes control of the laptop remotely and startes adjusting throttle, fuel ve map etc and communicating via whatsapp.
He asks me to start the engine. Engine starts cleanly and watch him adjust the throttle settings and it idles good. Few revs to check fuelling etc. Next we drive, with laptop tethered to mobile. A few tweaks to fuelling, ign etc and its driving good, very smooth. No warning lights on dash or nothing, rev counter etc working good, abs happy etc. This is good as im using clio3 canbus protocol on a megane engine in a Kangoo so was unsure how this would turn out 😄
In no time at all we are all done, its safe to be used. Cant exactly do any power mapping as the conditions are terrible especially on cup2 tyres and its going to Efi for mapping on the dyno.
Quick stop and the mrs takes control and do a few more miles. I set up the gear ratios/selection so it shows what gear its in.
This works great for a short period and then goes off. After a little bit of fault finding the clutch switch was not disengaging properly so the ecu assumed it was pressed. Id seen clutch switch stored on oem ecu - turned out plunger length was incorrect, quick adjustment and sorted.
Had a few hours spare back end of last week. Rolled the Kangoo out the garage as weather finally decent, and access required to passenger side.
1st job was replace top radiator hose. I had noticed a slight split in the one that was fitted when fitting the turbo kit. New old stock oem hose sourced.
Hose split visible. Doesnt look too bad but almost through.
Next job was fitting usb cable to ecu and fitting ecumaster edl-1 datalogger. This was centre console out and glovebox etc, routing wire through bulkhead. Couple of hours work for a tidy install.
With that done it was time to finish the wiring. Throttle plug needed wiring in, and once id found a good route for the wiring, i knew what length was required. Crimped and dual wall glued heatshrink gives a solid connection.
Also done mac valve and logger connections. With that done the loom was finally complete, I then offered up the battery tray to see how it all fitted.
The larger throttle body made routing the wiring to ecu and battery difficult as it was very tight beforehand and adding a larger silicone hose took the available room. The plastic battery tray was offered up and trimmed to suit.
I then fitted the ecu adaptor loom and ecu in the oem location, with a rivnut securing the ecu tonthe back of the battery tray.
With this done i connected the battery up and energized the ecu. The ecu powered up all good and ecu connected to laptop fine, radiator fan singing away as not configured.
With coils and injectors unplugged, uploaded the modified base map that i have been working on to suit this setup. Looked at sensor data and coolant temp, air temp etc looked good/as expected.
I then ran the dbw throttle calibration tool to set the bosch motorsport throttle up as no pre defined calibrations for the part number i am using. Throttle calibrated fine and operation checked.
I then cranked the engine over on the starter motor to check crank and cam triggers would read and sync.
Checking the logs, all good and both sync fine. No point in messing about, connected coils and injectors and cranked the engine. A few coughs but no start, sounded like it was trying on one or 2 cylinders..
Done some basic checks to ensure coils had power etc. All good so asked Sebimotorsport to check injector phase and firing order were correct. My pnp adaptor ign outputs have been wired a bit different to expected so needed a couple of changes, and tps inputs needed switching on the software. A few attempts later and it fired up running ok on all cylinders. Not the clean start i wanted but close enough. Could tell the map was way off, idling low etc but running.
By this time id pissed the neighbours off enough with noise as it was 9pm on Sat so asked Sebi if he had availability to remote in for cold start and 3500rpm base map to make it drivable up to 70mph to get to the dyno. He said yes 10am Sunday morning. This was goos but I still had no front end on the kangoo so had to quickly refit that and get it in a drivable state. Slight trimming to slam panel for throttle but all went together easy enough.
Sunday comes and its pissing down.
He asks me to start the engine. Engine starts cleanly and watch him adjust the throttle settings and it idles good. Few revs to check fuelling etc. Next we drive, with laptop tethered to mobile. A few tweaks to fuelling, ign etc and its driving good, very smooth. No warning lights on dash or nothing, rev counter etc working good, abs happy etc. This is good as im using clio3 canbus protocol on a megane engine in a Kangoo so was unsure how this would turn out 😄
In no time at all we are all done, its safe to be used. Cant exactly do any power mapping as the conditions are terrible especially on cup2 tyres and its going to Efi for mapping on the dyno.
Quick stop and the mrs takes control and do a few more miles. I set up the gear ratios/selection so it shows what gear its in.
This works great for a short period and then goes off. After a little bit of fault finding the clutch switch was not disengaging properly so the ecu assumed it was pressed. Id seen clutch switch stored on oem ecu - turned out plunger length was incorrect, quick adjustment and sorted.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Monday i take it out again on daily duties. No tools or nothing but have laptop just incase, bit of running about and all good. Go to Asda and park in the underground carpark, go to start and fuel pump does not prime. Start anyway and it fires up for ten seconds and conks out. Ffs no fuel pump for some reason.
I fire up laptop and do an output test on fuel pump relay and its clicking so the ecu and wiring to trigger fuel pump relay are good. I check the midi fuse on the live wire from the battery and it looks to be complete so assume pump has failed, ive got no spares so cant do nothing anyway, cant access pump without dropping tank etc to give the sender a belt to see if its given up. Its 9pm and the underground carpark shuts at 10pm so ring AA and they say itll be 2 hours minimum.
I cant push it up the ramp to get it out of the underground parking so ring my mate for a tow. We have done several sketchy tow homes over the years and he solid bars me 10 mile home.
Get home fast as he does not hang about tow bar or not 😄
I quickly grab the test meter and start probing the poles on the fuel pump midi fuse..initially no power on output side then next thing it has continuety/ok. I crack ign on and the fcuking pump works. At this point i assumed bad connection on the fuel tank and the thought of dropping the tank with half a tank of fuel in pains me. Sleep on the fucker, its a job for another day.
Get up this morning and look at the midi fuse again. To cut a long story short, the fuse bent slightly when nipping the bolts up the other day and centre plastic was loose, i straightened it out and it looked complete, pump working assumed ok/cheap shite etc but if it works send it.
On removal the issue can clearly be seen, stress fracture, assume slight movement must have made it connect.
Obviously not popped as no burns. Replaced with oem renault which look superior in construction. Pump sounds fine no untoward noises.
Starts straight up on crank.
Bit of a ballache but pretty confident that it was the issue. Ill take some tools for next test run just incase.
Its got me thinking about fuel system upgrades to a swirl pot/return system though..the nuke combined swirl/pump housing look good.
Thanks for reading!!
I fire up laptop and do an output test on fuel pump relay and its clicking so the ecu and wiring to trigger fuel pump relay are good. I check the midi fuse on the live wire from the battery and it looks to be complete so assume pump has failed, ive got no spares so cant do nothing anyway, cant access pump without dropping tank etc to give the sender a belt to see if its given up. Its 9pm and the underground carpark shuts at 10pm so ring AA and they say itll be 2 hours minimum.
I cant push it up the ramp to get it out of the underground parking so ring my mate for a tow. We have done several sketchy tow homes over the years and he solid bars me 10 mile home.
Get home fast as he does not hang about tow bar or not 😄
I quickly grab the test meter and start probing the poles on the fuel pump midi fuse..initially no power on output side then next thing it has continuety/ok. I crack ign on and the fcuking pump works. At this point i assumed bad connection on the fuel tank and the thought of dropping the tank with half a tank of fuel in pains me. Sleep on the fucker, its a job for another day.
Get up this morning and look at the midi fuse again. To cut a long story short, the fuse bent slightly when nipping the bolts up the other day and centre plastic was loose, i straightened it out and it looked complete, pump working assumed ok/cheap shite etc but if it works send it.
On removal the issue can clearly be seen, stress fracture, assume slight movement must have made it connect.
Obviously not popped as no burns. Replaced with oem renault which look superior in construction. Pump sounds fine no untoward noises.
Starts straight up on crank.
Bit of a ballache but pretty confident that it was the issue. Ill take some tools for next test run just incase.
Its got me thinking about fuel system upgrades to a swirl pot/return system though..the nuke combined swirl/pump housing look good.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Forgot to note above, when Sebi was logging the ecu initially the vvt would not work annoyingly, cam sensor reading fine but cam angle did not move even though above 50deg coolant temps etc.
Not sure why, initially we thought it was a wiring fault on the output or solenoid issues, but a couple of miles of driving and it entered the chat, lazy initially and then fine, and has accurately commanded requested cam angle on logs perfect since. Assume solenoid was a bit sticky after a few years of lack of use. Same issue on the trophy years ago bizarelly!
Not sure why, initially we thought it was a wiring fault on the output or solenoid issues, but a couple of miles of driving and it entered the chat, lazy initially and then fine, and has accurately commanded requested cam angle on logs perfect since. Assume solenoid was a bit sticky after a few years of lack of use. Same issue on the trophy years ago bizarelly!
