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Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)
- Thread starter Brigsy
- Start date
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Had last week off work so cracked on fitting the new g25 660 turbo setup.
To recap mocked up on the spare engine.
Started by stripping the 20t hybrid, manifold and downpipe off, oil feed and return removed. Plenty of room with scuttle removed. Turbo first, then manifold, then downpipe out via the top.
Fitting the new setup was reverse of the above. Oil feed in, downpipe in then manifold, external wastegate on then turbo.
External wastegate in situ. Fiddly to fit even though on vbands.
Starter motor heatshield was tight and required a bit of clearance adding with deadblow hammer to clear number 1 exhaust runner. From what ive seen a few people dont refit it, but we do stuff right here.
Oil return fitted. Its tight but adequate clearance off downpipe. Might wrap the last bit of the downpipe for added heatproofing
With that done onto boost hose and coolant lines. Trimmed a 90deg silicone hose and the coolant lines are plug and play.
Next job airfilter/induction. 70mm 45deg silicone hose trimmed and 45deg alloy pipe cut to fit. New ramair filter to suit larger bore
With that done i offered the scuttle panel up. Plenty of room.
Mac valve fitted in preperation for Ecumaster Black. Opted to bolt to the scuttle as no optimal place on engine, and the an line is not very flexible but necessary for heat protection.
Done.
Primed up oil system with coils and injectors unplugged, with turbo oil feed into a bottle to check flow. All good, fitted to turbo and primed turbo with more cranking. Reconnected injectors and coils and hit the switch.
Fired straight up, check for leaks and none. Sounds totally different to the stock manifold/hybrid.
Around 1.5days of work steady away, so not too bad to do.
WIth that done, taxed and out for a test run.
Test drive went well, heat wrap on downpipe smoked like fcuk for a bit but sorted itself out fast. As im on the old map for the hybrid, i cant give it much stick but it spools well and is responsive, seen 7psi around 3500rpm iirc.
In the words of the mrs, it sounds unbelievable. Worth doing for the sound alone.
Ive done 50 or so miles and no issues. Onto ph2 which is ecumaster black install and modified inlet. Aiming for mapping in 6-8 weeks.
Thanks for reading!!
Had last week off work so cracked on fitting the new g25 660 turbo setup.
To recap mocked up on the spare engine.
Started by stripping the 20t hybrid, manifold and downpipe off, oil feed and return removed. Plenty of room with scuttle removed. Turbo first, then manifold, then downpipe out via the top.
Fitting the new setup was reverse of the above. Oil feed in, downpipe in then manifold, external wastegate on then turbo.
External wastegate in situ. Fiddly to fit even though on vbands.
Starter motor heatshield was tight and required a bit of clearance adding with deadblow hammer to clear number 1 exhaust runner. From what ive seen a few people dont refit it, but we do stuff right here.
Oil return fitted. Its tight but adequate clearance off downpipe. Might wrap the last bit of the downpipe for added heatproofing
With that done onto boost hose and coolant lines. Trimmed a 90deg silicone hose and the coolant lines are plug and play.
Next job airfilter/induction. 70mm 45deg silicone hose trimmed and 45deg alloy pipe cut to fit. New ramair filter to suit larger bore
With that done i offered the scuttle panel up. Plenty of room.
Mac valve fitted in preperation for Ecumaster Black. Opted to bolt to the scuttle as no optimal place on engine, and the an line is not very flexible but necessary for heat protection.
Done.
Primed up oil system with coils and injectors unplugged, with turbo oil feed into a bottle to check flow. All good, fitted to turbo and primed turbo with more cranking. Reconnected injectors and coils and hit the switch.
Fired straight up, check for leaks and none. Sounds totally different to the stock manifold/hybrid.
Around 1.5days of work steady away, so not too bad to do.
WIth that done, taxed and out for a test run.
Test drive went well, heat wrap on downpipe smoked like fcuk for a bit but sorted itself out fast. As im on the old map for the hybrid, i cant give it much stick but it spools well and is responsive, seen 7psi around 3500rpm iirc.
In the words of the mrs, it sounds unbelievable. Worth doing for the sound alone.
Ive done 50 or so miles and no issues. Onto ph2 which is ecumaster black install and modified inlet. Aiming for mapping in 6-8 weeks.
Thanks for reading!!
Last edited:
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Made a start on the Ecumaster black wiring. 3 years ago i bought a RRR clio 197 pnp adaptor and a few bits.
197 clio wiring is pretty close to meg2rs but different at the same time. I looked at loom options and considered fitting the 197 engine loom, but would need rewiring at the upc plugs to suit megane upc and boost solenoid wiring. Meg 2 loom needed vvt and cam sensor wiring adding, and loom thinning out a bit to remove wiring not needed. As i have a few meg looms here seemed like modding one was the obvious solution.
After digging out all the parts and examining the pnp adaptor to see it was potted on the connection side, meant simply adding or removing wires would not be possible. Also i had no map to see how the inputs and outputs had been setup, or idea on how the pnp was wired so had to validate all connections. A few hours of tracing what goes where was necessary to avoid any future aggro. Probably should have just built a new loom from fresh as would have took the same amount of time but nevermind..
Simple stuff just time consuming.
I depinned and swapped a few wires about in the oem ecu connectors, moving the megane n75/boost controller wiring to a spare aux that was wired in the adaptor. Oem map sensor wiring is not used so the 3x wires have been repurposed/ repinned for cam sensor. The upstream lambda wiring has been repurposed/pinned to suit the vvt solenoid as again not used as running lsu 4.9 wideband lambda straight to ecu.
Also binned oem coil wiring as i have a subloom for Audi r8 coils wired to individual coil outputs. This is much better than the oem coils that are wired in series, which divides the total voltage across them, increases total resistance, and maintains the same current through each component hence giving a shitter spark / small spark plug gaps required. Oem meg coils are also pretty crap when wired up individually where r8 are good for a lot of boost.
Enough tech anyway - a few pics
All oem tape removed to check loom condition, and retaped in tesa cloth tape.
Done a load of connections including 4 way splice for coil power. Dual wall glued heatshrink makes a solid connection.
Its pretty much finished. Throttle body needs wiring, was unsure on length required so will do it in situ. Neutral switch wiring and reverse light switch to sort, i need to repurpose the connector for reverse switch off the current loom.
Will make a start on fitting in the next few days. Ill need front end off to fit modified inlet and larger throttle, 870cc bosch motorsport injectors, bosch wideband knock sensor etc.
Thanks for reading!!
Made a start on the Ecumaster black wiring. 3 years ago i bought a RRR clio 197 pnp adaptor and a few bits.
197 clio wiring is pretty close to meg2rs but different at the same time. I looked at loom options and considered fitting the 197 engine loom, but would need rewiring at the upc plugs to suit megane upc and boost solenoid wiring. Meg 2 loom needed vvt and cam sensor wiring adding, and loom thinning out a bit to remove wiring not needed. As i have a few meg looms here seemed like modding one was the obvious solution.
After digging out all the parts and examining the pnp adaptor to see it was potted on the connection side, meant simply adding or removing wires would not be possible. Also i had no map to see how the inputs and outputs had been setup, or idea on how the pnp was wired so had to validate all connections. A few hours of tracing what goes where was necessary to avoid any future aggro. Probably should have just built a new loom from fresh as would have took the same amount of time but nevermind..
Simple stuff just time consuming.
I depinned and swapped a few wires about in the oem ecu connectors, moving the megane n75/boost controller wiring to a spare aux that was wired in the adaptor. Oem map sensor wiring is not used so the 3x wires have been repurposed/ repinned for cam sensor. The upstream lambda wiring has been repurposed/pinned to suit the vvt solenoid as again not used as running lsu 4.9 wideband lambda straight to ecu.
Also binned oem coil wiring as i have a subloom for Audi r8 coils wired to individual coil outputs. This is much better than the oem coils that are wired in series, which divides the total voltage across them, increases total resistance, and maintains the same current through each component hence giving a shitter spark / small spark plug gaps required. Oem meg coils are also pretty crap when wired up individually where r8 are good for a lot of boost.
Enough tech anyway - a few pics
All oem tape removed to check loom condition, and retaped in tesa cloth tape.
Done a load of connections including 4 way splice for coil power. Dual wall glued heatshrink makes a solid connection.
Its pretty much finished. Throttle body needs wiring, was unsure on length required so will do it in situ. Neutral switch wiring and reverse light switch to sort, i need to repurpose the connector for reverse switch off the current loom.
Will make a start on fitting in the next few days. Ill need front end off to fit modified inlet and larger throttle, 870cc bosch motorsport injectors, bosch wideband knock sensor etc.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates..
Made a start on fitting the loom today. Bumper etc off.
I was avoiding taking the front off fully, but for how long it takes it was a no brainer. Access is 10x better.
Got the inlet off etc. When removing the fuel pipe from the rail it was still pressured uo from running yesterday, the fuel system is good on this. I then stripped out the loom and a few sensors, and started fitting the new parts. Wideband bosch knock sensor, lsu 4.9 wideband lambda and newly modified wiring back in the hole.
Offered up the R8 coils and they wont fit with the 250 breather plate, so will need to change that for a pms one, same as i run on my clio trophy.
Half decent start for 4 hours work.
Thanks for reading!!
Made a start on fitting the loom today. Bumper etc off.
I was avoiding taking the front off fully, but for how long it takes it was a no brainer. Access is 10x better.
Got the inlet off etc. When removing the fuel pipe from the rail it was still pressured uo from running yesterday, the fuel system is good on this. I then stripped out the loom and a few sensors, and started fitting the new parts. Wideband bosch knock sensor, lsu 4.9 wideband lambda and newly modified wiring back in the hole.
Offered up the R8 coils and they wont fit with the 250 breather plate, so will need to change that for a pms one, same as i run on my clio trophy.
Half decent start for 4 hours work.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers mate, getting there slowly.
My hard pipe kit is an old forge one chopped about. Id like something a bit better eventually, but can wait a bit. If i do a new intercooler setup ill get something fabricated.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Had a spare hour or so yesterday so got a bit more done.
Annoyingly id forgot to drill and tap the modified inlet for the bolt to the top engine mount. A lot of people dont bother but we do stuff right here.
With this done i could refit the modified 250 inlet. Before fitting, i renewed the cam sensor for a new one as due to location on 197 head, it needs to go on before the inlet. Dug out the bosch motorsport 870cc flow matched injectors i bought a few weeks ago, to replace the 630cc siemens deka that i pretty much maxed out with the old hybrid 20t.
870cc will have plenty of headroom on this setup. I was going to use 730cc but hard to find flowmatched, bosch supply them within 7% tolerance from factory which is dogshit🤣
Inlet fitted, new oem gasket to head torqued to spec and 870cc injectors fitted, wiring routed with cam sensor and vvt solenoid connected.
Note breather plate removed off the cam cover. I offered up the R8 coils last week, and they would not locate properly on the spark plug with the extra height of the breather plate. Options were oem 197 or r26 breather plate or pms as it works on my trophy. Pms it is.
Sexy billet machined alloy with baffle. Would have preferred silver but they only do black anodized now. Looks good so not messing about painting, on it goes.
R8 coils fitted for all the spark.
Throttle body needed a gasket before fitting. Oem 250 gasket no good as hole is too small, so dug the gasket paper out. I initially struggled to find my sheet of gasket paper, it almost got the cornflakes box which has served well in the past when in need🤣
Tap tap tap, cut cut cut. Close enough.
Throttle body fitted and boost hoses offered up. F4r is not a pretty engine, but in my opinion it looks far better than oem with a few bits done.
If all goes well i should be on for a start at some point in the next few days. Until then, more work to be done.
Thanks for reading!!
Had a spare hour or so yesterday so got a bit more done.
Annoyingly id forgot to drill and tap the modified inlet for the bolt to the top engine mount. A lot of people dont bother but we do stuff right here.
With this done i could refit the modified 250 inlet. Before fitting, i renewed the cam sensor for a new one as due to location on 197 head, it needs to go on before the inlet. Dug out the bosch motorsport 870cc flow matched injectors i bought a few weeks ago, to replace the 630cc siemens deka that i pretty much maxed out with the old hybrid 20t.
870cc will have plenty of headroom on this setup. I was going to use 730cc but hard to find flowmatched, bosch supply them within 7% tolerance from factory which is dogshit🤣
Inlet fitted, new oem gasket to head torqued to spec and 870cc injectors fitted, wiring routed with cam sensor and vvt solenoid connected.
Note breather plate removed off the cam cover. I offered up the R8 coils last week, and they would not locate properly on the spark plug with the extra height of the breather plate. Options were oem 197 or r26 breather plate or pms as it works on my trophy. Pms it is.
Sexy billet machined alloy with baffle. Would have preferred silver but they only do black anodized now. Looks good so not messing about painting, on it goes.
R8 coils fitted for all the spark.
Throttle body needed a gasket before fitting. Oem 250 gasket no good as hole is too small, so dug the gasket paper out. I initially struggled to find my sheet of gasket paper, it almost got the cornflakes box which has served well in the past when in need🤣
Tap tap tap, cut cut cut. Close enough.
Throttle body fitted and boost hoses offered up. F4r is not a pretty engine, but in my opinion it looks far better than oem with a few bits done.
If all goes well i should be on for a start at some point in the next few days. Until then, more work to be done.
Thanks for reading!!
Last edited:
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates. Big ones.
Had a few hours spare back end of last week. Rolled the Kangoo out the garage as weather finally decent, and access required to passenger side.
1st job was replace top radiator hose. I had noticed a slight split in the one that was fitted when fitting the turbo kit. New old stock oem hose sourced.
Hose split visible. Doesnt look too bad but almost through.
Next job was fitting usb cable to ecu and fitting ecumaster edl-1 datalogger. This was centre console out and glovebox etc, routing wire through bulkhead. Couple of hours work for a tidy install.
With that done it was time to finish the wiring. Throttle plug needed wiring in, and once id found a good route for the wiring, i knew what length was required. Crimped and dual wall glued heatshrink gives a solid connection.
Also done mac valve and logger connections. With that done the loom was finally complete, I then offered up the battery tray to see how it all fitted.
The larger throttle body made routing the wiring to ecu and battery difficult as it was very tight beforehand and adding a larger silicone hose took the available room. The plastic battery tray was offered up and trimmed to suit.
I then fitted the ecu adaptor loom and ecu in the oem location, with a rivnut securing the ecu tonthe back of the battery tray.
With this done i connected the battery up and energized the ecu. The ecu powered up all good and ecu connected to laptop fine, radiator fan singing away as not configured.
With coils and injectors unplugged, uploaded the modified base map that i have been working on to suit this setup. Looked at sensor data and coolant temp, air temp etc looked good/as expected.
I then ran the dbw throttle calibration tool to set the bosch motorsport throttle up as no pre defined calibrations for the part number i am using. Throttle calibrated fine and operation checked.
I then cranked the engine over on the starter motor to check crank and cam triggers would read and sync.
Checking the logs, all good and both sync fine. No point in messing about, connected coils and injectors and cranked the engine. A few coughs but no start, sounded like it was trying on one or 2 cylinders..
Done some basic checks to ensure coils had power etc. All good so asked Sebimotorsport to check injector phase and firing order were correct. My pnp adaptor ign outputs have been wired a bit different to expected so needed a couple of changes, and tps inputs needed switching on the software. A few attempts later and it fired up running ok on all cylinders. Not the clean start i wanted but close enough. Could tell the map was way off, idling low etc but running.
By this time id pissed the neighbours off enough with noise as it was 9pm on Sat so asked Sebi if he had availability to remote in for cold start and 3500rpm base map to make it drivable up to 70mph to get to the dyno. He said yes 10am Sunday morning. This was goos but I still had no front end on the kangoo so had to quickly refit that and get it in a drivable state. Slight trimming to slam panel for throttle but all went together easy enough.
Sunday comes and its pissing down.
Sebi takes control of the laptop remotely and startes adjusting throttle, fuel ve map etc and communicating via whatsapp.
He asks me to start the engine. Engine starts cleanly and watch him adjust the throttle settings and it idles good. Few revs to check fuelling etc. Next we drive, with laptop tethered to mobile. A few tweaks to fuelling, ign etc and its driving good, very smooth. No warning lights on dash or nothing, rev counter etc working good, abs happy etc. This is good as im using clio3 canbus protocol on a megane engine in a Kangoo so was unsure how this would turn out 😄
In no time at all we are all done, its safe to be used. Cant exactly do any power mapping as the conditions are terrible especially on cup2 tyres and its going to Efi for mapping on the dyno.
Quick stop and the mrs takes control and do a few more miles. I set up the gear ratios/selection so it shows what gear its in.
This works great for a short period and then goes off. After a little bit of fault finding the clutch switch was not disengaging properly so the ecu assumed it was pressed. Id seen clutch switch stored on oem ecu - turned out plunger length was incorrect, quick adjustment and sorted.
Had a few hours spare back end of last week. Rolled the Kangoo out the garage as weather finally decent, and access required to passenger side.
1st job was replace top radiator hose. I had noticed a slight split in the one that was fitted when fitting the turbo kit. New old stock oem hose sourced.
Hose split visible. Doesnt look too bad but almost through.
Next job was fitting usb cable to ecu and fitting ecumaster edl-1 datalogger. This was centre console out and glovebox etc, routing wire through bulkhead. Couple of hours work for a tidy install.
With that done it was time to finish the wiring. Throttle plug needed wiring in, and once id found a good route for the wiring, i knew what length was required. Crimped and dual wall glued heatshrink gives a solid connection.
Also done mac valve and logger connections. With that done the loom was finally complete, I then offered up the battery tray to see how it all fitted.
The larger throttle body made routing the wiring to ecu and battery difficult as it was very tight beforehand and adding a larger silicone hose took the available room. The plastic battery tray was offered up and trimmed to suit.
I then fitted the ecu adaptor loom and ecu in the oem location, with a rivnut securing the ecu tonthe back of the battery tray.
With this done i connected the battery up and energized the ecu. The ecu powered up all good and ecu connected to laptop fine, radiator fan singing away as not configured.
With coils and injectors unplugged, uploaded the modified base map that i have been working on to suit this setup. Looked at sensor data and coolant temp, air temp etc looked good/as expected.
I then ran the dbw throttle calibration tool to set the bosch motorsport throttle up as no pre defined calibrations for the part number i am using. Throttle calibrated fine and operation checked.
I then cranked the engine over on the starter motor to check crank and cam triggers would read and sync.
Checking the logs, all good and both sync fine. No point in messing about, connected coils and injectors and cranked the engine. A few coughs but no start, sounded like it was trying on one or 2 cylinders..
Done some basic checks to ensure coils had power etc. All good so asked Sebimotorsport to check injector phase and firing order were correct. My pnp adaptor ign outputs have been wired a bit different to expected so needed a couple of changes, and tps inputs needed switching on the software. A few attempts later and it fired up running ok on all cylinders. Not the clean start i wanted but close enough. Could tell the map was way off, idling low etc but running.
By this time id pissed the neighbours off enough with noise as it was 9pm on Sat so asked Sebi if he had availability to remote in for cold start and 3500rpm base map to make it drivable up to 70mph to get to the dyno. He said yes 10am Sunday morning. This was goos but I still had no front end on the kangoo so had to quickly refit that and get it in a drivable state. Slight trimming to slam panel for throttle but all went together easy enough.
Sunday comes and its pissing down.
He asks me to start the engine. Engine starts cleanly and watch him adjust the throttle settings and it idles good. Few revs to check fuelling etc. Next we drive, with laptop tethered to mobile. A few tweaks to fuelling, ign etc and its driving good, very smooth. No warning lights on dash or nothing, rev counter etc working good, abs happy etc. This is good as im using clio3 canbus protocol on a megane engine in a Kangoo so was unsure how this would turn out 😄
In no time at all we are all done, its safe to be used. Cant exactly do any power mapping as the conditions are terrible especially on cup2 tyres and its going to Efi for mapping on the dyno.
Quick stop and the mrs takes control and do a few more miles. I set up the gear ratios/selection so it shows what gear its in.
This works great for a short period and then goes off. After a little bit of fault finding the clutch switch was not disengaging properly so the ecu assumed it was pressed. Id seen clutch switch stored on oem ecu - turned out plunger length was incorrect, quick adjustment and sorted.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Monday i take it out again on daily duties. No tools or nothing but have laptop just incase, bit of running about and all good. Go to Asda and park in the underground carpark, go to start and fuel pump does not prime. Start anyway and it fires up for ten seconds and conks out. Ffs no fuel pump for some reason.
I fire up laptop and do an output test on fuel pump relay and its clicking so the ecu and wiring to trigger fuel pump relay are good. I check the midi fuse on the live wire from the battery and it looks to be complete so assume pump has failed, ive got no spares so cant do nothing anyway, cant access pump without dropping tank etc to give the sender a belt to see if its given up. Its 9pm and the underground carpark shuts at 10pm so ring AA and they say itll be 2 hours minimum.
I cant push it up the ramp to get it out of the underground parking so ring my mate for a tow. We have done several sketchy tow homes over the years and he solid bars me 10 mile home.
Get home fast as he does not hang about tow bar or not 😄
I quickly grab the test meter and start probing the poles on the fuel pump midi fuse..initially no power on output side then next thing it has continuety/ok. I crack ign on and the fcuking pump works. At this point i assumed bad connection on the fuel tank and the thought of dropping the tank with half a tank of fuel in pains me. Sleep on the fucker, its a job for another day.
Get up this morning and look at the midi fuse again. To cut a long story short, the fuse bent slightly when nipping the bolts up the other day and centre plastic was loose, i straightened it out and it looked complete, pump working assumed ok/cheap shite etc but if it works send it.
On removal the issue can clearly be seen, stress fracture, assume slight movement must have made it connect.
Obviously not popped as no burns. Replaced with oem renault which look superior in construction. Pump sounds fine no untoward noises.
Starts straight up on crank.
Bit of a ballache but pretty confident that it was the issue. Ill take some tools for next test run just incase.
Its got me thinking about fuel system upgrades to a swirl pot/return system though..the nuke combined swirl/pump housing look good.
Thanks for reading!!
I fire up laptop and do an output test on fuel pump relay and its clicking so the ecu and wiring to trigger fuel pump relay are good. I check the midi fuse on the live wire from the battery and it looks to be complete so assume pump has failed, ive got no spares so cant do nothing anyway, cant access pump without dropping tank etc to give the sender a belt to see if its given up. Its 9pm and the underground carpark shuts at 10pm so ring AA and they say itll be 2 hours minimum.
I cant push it up the ramp to get it out of the underground parking so ring my mate for a tow. We have done several sketchy tow homes over the years and he solid bars me 10 mile home.
Get home fast as he does not hang about tow bar or not 😄
I quickly grab the test meter and start probing the poles on the fuel pump midi fuse..initially no power on output side then next thing it has continuety/ok. I crack ign on and the fcuking pump works. At this point i assumed bad connection on the fuel tank and the thought of dropping the tank with half a tank of fuel in pains me. Sleep on the fucker, its a job for another day.
Get up this morning and look at the midi fuse again. To cut a long story short, the fuse bent slightly when nipping the bolts up the other day and centre plastic was loose, i straightened it out and it looked complete, pump working assumed ok/cheap shite etc but if it works send it.
On removal the issue can clearly be seen, stress fracture, assume slight movement must have made it connect.
Obviously not popped as no burns. Replaced with oem renault which look superior in construction. Pump sounds fine no untoward noises.
Starts straight up on crank.
Bit of a ballache but pretty confident that it was the issue. Ill take some tools for next test run just incase.
Its got me thinking about fuel system upgrades to a swirl pot/return system though..the nuke combined swirl/pump housing look good.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Forgot to note above, when Sebi was logging the ecu initially the vvt would not work annoyingly, cam sensor reading fine but cam angle did not move even though above 50deg coolant temps etc.
Not sure why, initially we thought it was a wiring fault on the output or solenoid issues, but a couple of miles of driving and it entered the chat, lazy initially and then fine, and has accurately commanded requested cam angle on logs perfect since. Assume solenoid was a bit sticky after a few years of lack of use. Same issue on the trophy years ago bizarelly!
Not sure why, initially we thought it was a wiring fault on the output or solenoid issues, but a couple of miles of driving and it entered the chat, lazy initially and then fine, and has accurately commanded requested cam angle on logs perfect since. Assume solenoid was a bit sticky after a few years of lack of use. Same issue on the trophy years ago bizarelly!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Cleaned on Thursday. Needed it badly.
Took it out this morning for a test run, no issues and confirms stress fracture of the fuse was the cause for no start.
Awaiting a slot for mapping but prep continues. Oil and filter change today. Fresh purflux filter and millers 10/50 nt+.
Ive said it loads of times before but just buy one of these sealey oil fillers for ren if you have a megane. Class bit of kit, no spillage.
Bought an Ecumaster can switchboard and rotary switch for boost control.
The switchboard is a nice bit of kit, i run it on my trophy. Simply connect to canbus wiring in car and you can run extra analogue switches and inputs to the ecu via can. The rotary switch will allow for 8 different boost levels blending boost table 1 & 2 together. I think boost table 1 will be set at 12-14 psi and table 2 at whatever the clutch can handle. Might repurpose the cruise buttons on steering wheel for rolling anti lag and launch, just need a modus cruise squib. Ill get the switchboard fitted and configured this week ready.
Also been thinking about fuel system upgrades. I have a couple of spare 250 fuel rails here and plan on getting one modified, removing the oem regulator and welding the holes/fitting an an6 inlet and return fitting. The reason for modding oem is to retain the injector holding clips, as a lot of aftermarket megane rails do not allow the clips to fit.
Top or side, both will work in theory. Ill think about it.
Thanks for reading!!
Cleaned on Thursday. Needed it badly.
Took it out this morning for a test run, no issues and confirms stress fracture of the fuse was the cause for no start.
Awaiting a slot for mapping but prep continues. Oil and filter change today. Fresh purflux filter and millers 10/50 nt+.
Ive said it loads of times before but just buy one of these sealey oil fillers for ren if you have a megane. Class bit of kit, no spillage.
Bought an Ecumaster can switchboard and rotary switch for boost control.
Also been thinking about fuel system upgrades. I have a couple of spare 250 fuel rails here and plan on getting one modified, removing the oem regulator and welding the holes/fitting an an6 inlet and return fitting. The reason for modding oem is to retain the injector holding clips, as a lot of aftermarket megane rails do not allow the clips to fit.
Top or side, both will work in theory. Ill think about it.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Kangoo got a decent run out over the weekend. No furthur issues with fuel pump after fuse replacement, so id say job jobbed.
Runs great up to 3.5k, makes all the right noises.
Anybody familiar with ecumaster black on clio3/megane will know the canbus side has a few quirks. Stuff like engine wont crank over for 10 mins until uch shuts down if you shut the engine off with rad fan running - canbus coding issues. Fuel gauge can also read erratic. Its all niggly stuff that can be tolerated but can be annoying.
Up to now this has none of those issues and it appears to work just fine. Fuel gauge seems to read OK, and no starting issues. I think its due to me running different firmware/kangoo uch and early megane upc. Its still early days but ive done a couple of hundred miles without issues so we will see. I have an idea how to work around any potential non crank issues if the situation appears.
Ive done a bit more testing on ecu settings. I have verified coolant temp is reading accurate and that radiator fan works well via canbus/oem setup on upc. I was concerned about potential idle/overheat but rad fan cuts in and out without issue. Ive set it to 95deg lowering to 90deg..this is a bit lower than usual meg 99-95deg but gives a buffer.
In other news ive been gathering parts (never fcuking ending!)
Modus/clio3 cruise squib bought so i can add cruise wiring to ecumaster. I need 2x buttons for cruise control and can repurpose the other buttons for spicey stuff like rolling antilag etc. The cruise switches as oem are configured mux setup with resistance different for each button instead of on off. Should be easy to wire up to an analogue input on ecumaster as a mux switch (he says). We will see.
Also ordered 4x egt sensors and ecumaster can to egt module. Seems daft not fitting as ive already had the bosses fitted to the exhaust manifold runners for each cylinder.
Its coming together, Slowly.
Thanks for reading!!
Kangoo got a decent run out over the weekend. No furthur issues with fuel pump after fuse replacement, so id say job jobbed.
Runs great up to 3.5k, makes all the right noises.
Anybody familiar with ecumaster black on clio3/megane will know the canbus side has a few quirks. Stuff like engine wont crank over for 10 mins until uch shuts down if you shut the engine off with rad fan running - canbus coding issues. Fuel gauge can also read erratic. Its all niggly stuff that can be tolerated but can be annoying.
Up to now this has none of those issues and it appears to work just fine. Fuel gauge seems to read OK, and no starting issues. I think its due to me running different firmware/kangoo uch and early megane upc. Its still early days but ive done a couple of hundred miles without issues so we will see. I have an idea how to work around any potential non crank issues if the situation appears.
Ive done a bit more testing on ecu settings. I have verified coolant temp is reading accurate and that radiator fan works well via canbus/oem setup on upc. I was concerned about potential idle/overheat but rad fan cuts in and out without issue. Ive set it to 95deg lowering to 90deg..this is a bit lower than usual meg 99-95deg but gives a buffer.
In other news ive been gathering parts (never fcuking ending!)
Modus/clio3 cruise squib bought so i can add cruise wiring to ecumaster. I need 2x buttons for cruise control and can repurpose the other buttons for spicey stuff like rolling antilag etc. The cruise switches as oem are configured mux setup with resistance different for each button instead of on off. Should be easy to wire up to an analogue input on ecumaster as a mux switch (he says). We will see.
Also ordered 4x egt sensors and ecumaster can to egt module. Seems daft not fitting as ive already had the bosses fitted to the exhaust manifold runners for each cylinder.
Its coming together, Slowly.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Ecumaster canbus expansion box and rotary boost control wired. These are great, just tap them into the canbus and add extra switches, analogue inputs to ecu etc. No fuss adding loom through bulkhead etc, and most of my outputs on ecu are already taken so needed expansion.
Closest canbus connection was to the dials so tapped into that with a twisted pair.
Dual wall heatshrink
Taped.
Power tapped into switched live on stereo.
Wires ran to area behind dash switches and connectors added so removable if dash ever needs to come off. Used superseal as got plently in stock.
Box stashed behind dash and 8 position rotary switch wired in for boost blend.
Whilst in the area i done some more planned bits. Ecumaster allows cruise control, i have cruise buttons but no wiring, and possibility of connecting to the ecu via the can expansion box. Ecumaster only requires brake switch, clutch switch, 2x buttons for cruise so the other buttons could be repurposed for push to pass, rolling antilag etc as necessary.
1st thing to do, add clio3 cruise squib which is the same as kangoo with extra wiring.
Kangoo has no cruise wiring so had to add all of it that was required. I have a 182 interior loom here which has the same connector plug as kangoo squib, so depinned the connector with a good length of twisted pair wiring and fitted to the kangoo wiring plug.
I done a bit of digging on how the 197 cruise control buttons were wired as only 2x wires for 4x non latching switches. The buttons both have 2 wires coming out of each joining together into a pair to to go through the squib. They are basically a mux switch setup, resistance is triggered when a button is pressed to indicate which one is in use.
Resistance example (clio2 i think but basically the same) Verified with test meter.
After a bit of thought i reckoned they could be wired up to an analogue input in mux config.
2.2k pullup resistor spliced in between 5v power and analogue. This is necessary for mux to prevent the input from "floating" when the switch is open or disconnected.
I used a megane 2 cruise switch to turn the steering buttons on and off, finding which pins joined together with switch in cruise position, and used a chopped loom plug i had in stock. I could have bypassed the switch but prefer having the option to disable it fully.
With all wiring done i dug out my ecumaster usb to can module which i used on the trophy years ago. I set it up for obd2 connection last time so can plug straight in and sniff the canbus/communicate to modules on the bus.
Looking on the software, can switchboard was active and working. I could see analogue 1 (Cruise buttons) were responding and voltage moving from 5v when pressed showing relevant voltages as expected and analogue 2 (Boost rotary) responded when turned.
All this left was the software on ecu to setup. At this point i realised it was not possible to correct/adjust the voltages on the mux switch setup as the ecu pre defines them, the voltages on the steering wheel were miles off so any button pressed would register all 3 switches pressed. Bugger.
Que a bit of head scratching. I looked at adding resistors to get me to the required voltages for ecu to be happy but was not straightforward as would require multiple resistors fitting from a few calcs. Stripped down the buttons to see if possible to change resistors but its a mini circuit board with a chip in each, so again not easy.
Done a bit of research and ecumaster has 3x virtual outputs that can be configured to activate on specified analogue voltages. I configured them to work individually specifying the required voltages that were logged on the switchboard
Checking on the logs, they all work great and respond fine.
Activated cruise. This requires 2x buttons, one to start/stop and one to resume. Added some base settings and it actually works. I need to revisit the brake switch wiring as brake needs to go to an analogue as its been wired incorrectly on the pnp wiring (not by me) but for all purposes, its been tested and works.
Ill sort the brake switch out soon, simple change.
Also had geo done. The geo lift was on the piss years ago when i set it up last and camber on passenger side was reading incorrectly. I adjusted it on the day and it was obvious with a quick check it was a degree out on the passenger side. Always meant to change it but never got round to it, drove OK.
Done a bit of trigonometry and spirit level to set the camber at home yesterday as annoyingly the geo lift does not have a lifting beam to jack up. Scuttle off to access ast top mounts.
Basic but accurate and both sides now match again. Works out -1.7deg.
Also refitted the ferodo ds1.11 pads up front as it will be needing good brakes soon..
Thanks for reading!!
Ecumaster canbus expansion box and rotary boost control wired. These are great, just tap them into the canbus and add extra switches, analogue inputs to ecu etc. No fuss adding loom through bulkhead etc, and most of my outputs on ecu are already taken so needed expansion.
Closest canbus connection was to the dials so tapped into that with a twisted pair.
Dual wall heatshrink
Taped.
Power tapped into switched live on stereo.
Wires ran to area behind dash switches and connectors added so removable if dash ever needs to come off. Used superseal as got plently in stock.
Box stashed behind dash and 8 position rotary switch wired in for boost blend.
Whilst in the area i done some more planned bits. Ecumaster allows cruise control, i have cruise buttons but no wiring, and possibility of connecting to the ecu via the can expansion box. Ecumaster only requires brake switch, clutch switch, 2x buttons for cruise so the other buttons could be repurposed for push to pass, rolling antilag etc as necessary.
1st thing to do, add clio3 cruise squib which is the same as kangoo with extra wiring.
Kangoo has no cruise wiring so had to add all of it that was required. I have a 182 interior loom here which has the same connector plug as kangoo squib, so depinned the connector with a good length of twisted pair wiring and fitted to the kangoo wiring plug.
I done a bit of digging on how the 197 cruise control buttons were wired as only 2x wires for 4x non latching switches. The buttons both have 2 wires coming out of each joining together into a pair to to go through the squib. They are basically a mux switch setup, resistance is triggered when a button is pressed to indicate which one is in use.
Resistance example (clio2 i think but basically the same) Verified with test meter.
After a bit of thought i reckoned they could be wired up to an analogue input in mux config.
2.2k pullup resistor spliced in between 5v power and analogue. This is necessary for mux to prevent the input from "floating" when the switch is open or disconnected.
I used a megane 2 cruise switch to turn the steering buttons on and off, finding which pins joined together with switch in cruise position, and used a chopped loom plug i had in stock. I could have bypassed the switch but prefer having the option to disable it fully.
With all wiring done i dug out my ecumaster usb to can module which i used on the trophy years ago. I set it up for obd2 connection last time so can plug straight in and sniff the canbus/communicate to modules on the bus.
Looking on the software, can switchboard was active and working. I could see analogue 1 (Cruise buttons) were responding and voltage moving from 5v when pressed showing relevant voltages as expected and analogue 2 (Boost rotary) responded when turned.
All this left was the software on ecu to setup. At this point i realised it was not possible to correct/adjust the voltages on the mux switch setup as the ecu pre defines them, the voltages on the steering wheel were miles off so any button pressed would register all 3 switches pressed. Bugger.
Que a bit of head scratching. I looked at adding resistors to get me to the required voltages for ecu to be happy but was not straightforward as would require multiple resistors fitting from a few calcs. Stripped down the buttons to see if possible to change resistors but its a mini circuit board with a chip in each, so again not easy.
Done a bit of research and ecumaster has 3x virtual outputs that can be configured to activate on specified analogue voltages. I configured them to work individually specifying the required voltages that were logged on the switchboard
Checking on the logs, they all work great and respond fine.
Activated cruise. This requires 2x buttons, one to start/stop and one to resume. Added some base settings and it actually works. I need to revisit the brake switch wiring as brake needs to go to an analogue as its been wired incorrectly on the pnp wiring (not by me) but for all purposes, its been tested and works.
Ill sort the brake switch out soon, simple change.
Also had geo done. The geo lift was on the piss years ago when i set it up last and camber on passenger side was reading incorrectly. I adjusted it on the day and it was obvious with a quick check it was a degree out on the passenger side. Always meant to change it but never got round to it, drove OK.
Done a bit of trigonometry and spirit level to set the camber at home yesterday as annoyingly the geo lift does not have a lifting beam to jack up. Scuttle off to access ast top mounts.
Also refitted the ferodo ds1.11 pads up front as it will be needing good brakes soon..
Thanks for reading!!
You are a very impressive man Jon.
Cub.
ClioSport Moderator
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers mate, these little projects keep me occupied. Hopefully the info will help somebody in the future as theres very little info out there on the standalone ecu setups in the renaults.
Cheers mate. Ive just winged it mostly, if it looks like it will work ill give it a shot.
Aye Emu black, basically same engine bay as clio and meg. Yeah not totally waterproof but seen loads on motorbikes etc, from a bit of research most mid range standalone ecu's are only ip60.
Engine bay stays dry enough, ive not seen any water inside that area. ld only be concerned if it was swimming with water or front end was absolutely open to elements. Ive been thinking about making a battery cover to tidy that area up as all the wiring looks messy and for additional protection.
bvnditi
ClioSport Club Member
I pretty much live for updates on this thing lol. ClioSport is about 5% stuff for my Clio, 5% other builds and 90% this.
Moving like Mr. Kipling boss, Exceedingly Good™️
Moving like Mr. Kipling boss, Exceedingly Good™️
