Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)

Cheers all. Its so much better than the old hybrid setup.

npt said:

Wow some good power! I'd run it at a bar, be more than enough power for the track, thing must fly

Click to expand...

Agreed mate a bar of boost is easy enough and well useable. I might add a steering wheel switch as push to pass to increase boost to 75% of high boost table if i need it to pass somebody.

Bit of a sad one but only just had chance to use this as my dad was in hospital for 6 days. I got an early call on the Sunday morning, the day after mapping to get down the hospital asap. So this was parked as bedside all week and he passed peacefully in the end after a 5 year battle from cancer. He quite liked the kangoo when i took him out in it so fond memories of that at least. f**k cancer eh.

As off work had to use this for the last couple of days on the daily. Makes a pretty good daily and reasonable on fuel when not on it. Better mpg on the bosch injectors compared to the old siemens deka dogshit.

Ive had a go of 25psi /481 and its ridiculous. The boost by gear lures you into a false sense of security as 1st & 2nd are pretty tame. Then its hang onto the steering wheel in 3rd and up trying to keep it straight. Really need to work on suspension a bit rear needs to be loads harder. Maybe neutral toe to see if that helps.

Ive also bought an Ecumaster canbus gauge to display live data. Its a rebranded canchecked mfd15 gen2 gauge. I almost hit the switch on an ecumaster 9" adu instead but i feel the extra money would be better invested in fuel hoses for the fuel system so i can go for more power, not that it needs any more that wastegate pressure



Plan is to remove the Aem afr and fit this in place as ecu has wideband lambda on board.

Thanks for reading!

Sorry to hear about your dad mate. If you need anything, give me a shout.

Sorry to hear the news Brigsy. I'm glad he went peacefully with you by his side.

Sorry to hear about your dad Jon.

Aye f**k cancer indeed, sorry to hear it mate

Sorry for your loss mate.

Very sad news mate, horrible illness

Thanks all, appreciate the support. Knew it would get him one day but was not prepared for it to be last week.

I have refitted the ds1.11 pads to the front as it needs as much braking power as possible. Forgot how bad the brake dust is off them!

Also reason behind buying the ecumaster/canchecked gauge is due to the fuel gauge reading on the piss and it does not read right when running.

For the oem fuel gauge to work correctly it needs data from the engine ECU to Offset the flow as the level sensor intank works more like a fuel reset. Basically level sensor in tank resets a counter in the dash cluster when ign is first turned on showing correct level and the ECU counts it down.

Mine is counting down too fast, i was cruising along the m6 with half a tank in before i got to efi, then gauge drops rapidly hitting reserve in a few mins then off the bottom of the reserve. I figured i was not going to run out of fuel so kept driving, and once stopped and a cycle of the ign its showing tank level of just under half a tank.

Its not too bad on shorter journeys as level is reset often enough with stop start. Id like ecumaster to sort this if poss but i believe several people have tickets open for same issue and no solution yet.

Ive had a sniff round the TDB oem settings on renolink and cant find a way to disable the counter.

Been giving it some thought, and the plan is to intercept the wiring for level sensor at the dials and connect it to my can switchboard so Ecumaster can log fuel level, and show the level on the canbus stream on the gauge. If i disconnect the sender wiring from oem dash totally it will flag errors, so will use a dual station convertor to output correct resistance to both gauges at the same time. Other option is to add a resistor to trick oem gauge but it will render it useless, where it does something currently.

We will see how it goes. I think its doable.

Sorry For your Loss. Cancer is indeed a horrible disease.