Thanks all, appreciate the support. Knew it would get him one day but was not prepared for it to be last week.
I have refitted the ds1.11 pads to the front as it needs as much braking power as possible. Forgot how bad the brake dust is off them!
Also reason behind buying the ecumaster/canchecked gauge is due to the fuel gauge reading on the piss and it does not read right when running.
For the oem fuel gauge to work correctly it needs data from the engine ECU to Offset the flow as the level sensor intank works more like a fuel reset. Basically level sensor in tank resets a counter in the dash cluster when ign is first turned on showing correct level and the ECU counts it down.
Mine is counting down too fast, i was cruising along the m6 with half a tank in before i got to efi, then gauge drops rapidly hitting reserve in a few mins then off the bottom of the reserve. I figured i was not going to run out of fuel so kept driving, and once stopped and a cycle of the ign its showing tank level of just under half a tank.
Its not too bad on shorter journeys as level is reset often enough with stop start. Id like ecumaster to sort this if poss but i believe several people have tickets open for same issue and no solution yet.
Ive had a sniff round the TDB oem settings on renolink and cant find a way to disable the counter.
Been giving it some thought, and the plan is to intercept the wiring for level sensor at the dials and connect it to my can switchboard so Ecumaster can log fuel level, and show the level on the canbus stream on the gauge. If i disconnect the sender wiring from oem dash totally it will flag errors, so will use a dual station convertor to output correct resistance to both gauges at the same time. Other option is to add a resistor to trick oem gauge but it will render it useless, where it does something currently.
We will see how it goes. I think its doable.
