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I have wired my amp up, but there is no power going to it! The little power l.e.d. is glowing so I guess its to do with the remote or the power cable itself? Im pretty sure Ive connected the power lead to the battery ok, and the remote wire is connected to the blue and white stripy lead on the...
The cheapest quote I got for installing an amp was £55 (one place wanted £70!). I thought that was well expensive for what would take a professional about 3/4 hour, so I did it myself with a little help from the people on here!
I reckon £200 is pretty pricey m8. You could save yourself a wad...
The ring on my earth cable wasnt big enough to fit on the bolt in the picture i posted, so I took bambams advice and used the nut between the rear seat split.
Ive got all the wires into the boot now, but I have to find someone with a torque rench to undo the seatbelt bolt.
All I have to do...
When I was buying my amp wiring kit, the guy told me to run the power down one side, the RCA and remote down another, and the speaker wires down the middle of the car, so you dont get interference
Black bar? Do you mean the black bar for the seat belt? I tried threading the cables through, but they just get stuck and curl up. Did you take the seats out to do it?
Right, I have got as far as the rear seats with my wires. How do you get them through to the boot so its all neat? Also, can you use one of the bolts on the boot floor at the back for the earth? They are gold if that helps!
Im gonna fit my amp wiring in the next few days. I remember from fitting the steering wheel adapter (its a connects2 one) that I had to plug a blue remote wire into the headunit wiring loom. I cant remember if there is another one. I dont wanna pull my headunit out cos It takes aaggggggggeeees...
Is it true that to amp up components you have to drill through the door? This guy I know told me that theres no other way to get the wire through cos its too thick.
I didnt install my components myself so I dont know where the crossovers are but i guess they must be in the doors or in the...
Ive just found this amp for £180:
ALPINE MRP F320
·5/4/3 Channel Amplifier
· 4 x 75W + 1 x 180W Max (4 x 40W + 1 x 120W RMS) or 2 x 180W + 1 x 180W Max (2 x 100W + 1 x 120W RMS)
Would something like that do the job alright? My components are 70w rms by the way...
So are you saying that its ok to run a sub on 100w rms? I want a good sub, something like the 10" alpine R (which has 300w rms), thats gonna give me tight puncy bass. Will the cheaper subs that have a lot lower rms figure still give me this? If so has anybody got any recommendations?
My other...
All the 4 channel amps Ive seen arent very powerful. Most are about 4x50 rms. If I bridge 2 channels, is that enough to drive a decent 10" sub, cos most seem to be at least 200w rms?
I dont know much about amps so this might sound stupid, but will the amp send the same power to the components as it does to the sub or can you change it. Cos the components are only 200w max whereas the sub is 1000w 300w rms.
Im gonna take what seems to be most peoples advice and not get 6x9s. Ive already got components in the front and Im gonna get a sub and amp. I dont want to buy 2 amps, not so much because of the money but I want to keep space in my boot. Can you use the same amp to power the components and sub...
You can keep the display if you get a sony head unit. Only thing is that you dont keep the tuner presets with the adapter, or at least I cant find any way to make them work!
My adapter doesnt let you use the presets. Yesterday it started playin up and now all the buttons on the stalk dont do what they are supposed to (volume now changes the track!)
I upgraded to a sony headunit a while ago now and brought a connects2 adapter to keep the steering wheel controls. One thing that has really been bugging me is that the jog wheel (on the steering wheel controls) doesnt work for the tuner presets anymore like it used to with the standard...
I fitted my speakers today. I took your advice Timmy! there was a bit of buzzing, but moving all the wires stopped that.
I couldnt really hear much of a difference between which way round the speakers went, but it all sounds ok, so its all good.
Thanks for all your help guys!
It might be worth trying t-cut on the minor scratches, you have to work quite hard to get them out though. If not I would recommend a mobile guy, cos they always tend to be cheaper and you dont have to take your car to them. With my old car, it cost me about £50 to remove these quite noticeable...