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There is a balance pipe in the joiner between the 2 heater matrix pipes, but it's pretty small

I priced up a Snap-on kit once. £800 odd. I LOL'd and got off the van

essentially what that kit I linked to is, but with it's own pot

it's really really simple in construction, and use. fit to nipple, open nipple, pump pedal until no bubbles/clean fluid comes through, shut nipple, repeat on next one.

I use one of these, have done for years http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-One-Handed-Universal-Brake-Bleeding-Bleed-Kit-/360594653977?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item53f51dc319&_uhb=1

rears can yes, fronts have different bolt spacings on the hub, and the bracket is wider

http://peinture-outillage.fr/outillage-peinture/consommables/46-wd-40-prix-400ml-super-degrippant-action-rapide.html lol......so it's WD40 then

I use pop and I have 7 days of messages available all the time

I use 20Nm + 115deg (+/-15) and I use the higher end of the scale so 130deg

you can yes, I just never recommend sandwich plates as the sensor ones usually leak and cause more problems than you gain by having a gauge

It can't collape! it just moves from stop to stop. The only one I've seen break has the oil seal torqued to a mind blowing tightness which cracked the housing and it went bang under load

Pressure is done with a T piece adaptor into where the standard sensor is on the front of the block (just above the oil filter) Temperature should be done into the sump ideally. I'd stick with a pressure gauge, but be aware they do little but propagate paranoia most of the time

There's a Megane F7R making similar power, but that revs to 11.5k, which is more realistic of the requirements. Engine dynos are a bit different to a rolling road too. There's benefits of measuring direct at the flywheel, but there's inaccuracies too, of space, exhaust setups...

the DD was a piece of s**t that kept breaking. Had to do a full software re-install on it at 1am once. Really was dreadful.

yeah there's a definite "zone" where it gets loud. Its just a resonance thing I guess. Sounds like you have a blow though

Broken.

I prefer the silenced tailpipes personally, quieter overall, but they do make motorway cruising a bit noisier than the slash cut version (which is louder the rest of the time)

I meant I miss the car. Dan has my old Monaco (with a fair few changes since I had it) Brilliant engine

it's the same kit, the external of the TB is only very slightly different, tighten the jubillee up and it works spot on

the 2 tailpipe options on the piper make it sound quite different. Surprising for such a small change

Sorry, I miss it :( 197s are dull

I've seen that done before, and a stack of washers added behind the tensioner

both the dephaser if it's very bad, and the lambda could be causing your issue. Diagnostic plug in will tell you more

I've had to drill them out before!!! Usually if you start by hitting the drift HARD right from the start you're ok. If you start off tapping gently and being delicate they end up bent. U usually give them a few hits in from the back too, just to try and break the corrosion

Cams make it a lot more aggressive with regard to noise. MTFU TBQFH

I can get any of them, just the black and Blue seem popular so I keep them on the shelf. Red looks really nice though, I thought it would be too much, but it works

I've seen exceptions to that rule. don't have to change many though.

no, it's only something you have on AC systems

Before and after runs I did on Russ' (Sprintcup) cup. No map changes. Remap to suit usually sorts out the torque dip at lower revs nicely