Search results

205 gti I bought had 5 degrees toe out. ruined a set of tyres driving home from collecting it. jon_r's ph1 had about 4 degrees toe out when it came in to me the other day, and 4 degrees of camber one side

Chrome and Firefox, used Firefox for years but slowly using Chrome more. have to use IE for renualt parts website and catcams site as they won't run on anything else

it wasn't knackered and smoking before. It's burning oil and needs a rebuild now (not linked to the work.....just worn out)

if you can find a bolted join on an original 182 exhaust, I will give you £1

so does everyone else ;) lol. Makes it reasonable easy. Bit heavy and awkward, but only takes a few minutes

Standard 197 plugs. Got them in stock usually

didn't really mean anyone in particular was bad, just that you should trust whoever you use to use the right stuff and it you don't then....well, find someone you do trust

no that is full RRP

nope £9.88 and thats gone up about a pound

173 I think. Strong torque too

my experiences of them are using them on 200sx's. A few friends had them destroy sets of Forged pistons. We always ran NGK copper core plugs becuase of it (BCPR7ES usually) as they're bomb proof. Most of the reason people have trouble with different plugs in clios is using Bosch ones, which...

Denso irridiums with the slightest trace of det (even during mapping) like to fall apart and leave tiny bits of very hard metal embeded in pistons and valves. NGK always.

Use a better mechanic. Any decent specialist would give you a warranty, but you won't get that if you supply parts. I won't use parts that don't come from me for this reason

wouldn't use them if they were free

Genuine are cheaper than buying in an NGK box

hub dyno's measure horsepower at the hubs, so the losses are even lower. It can't be an at the wheels figure, because there are no wheels bolted on at the time, and the rotating mass of the wheels causes a loss. TDI's figures at the hub are very close to SRR's flywheel figures

yes that's too much for a road car. better to run less camber, and add caster with cup arms. Remember too much camber reduces the contact patch in a straight line, which can make traction worse under acceleration, and braking.

about 3 times what it should be

give it a wipe with some brake cleaner, then use a piece of course emery paper on a flat block to rough the surface a little (remove the glaze) if there's tiny surface cracking (common on flywheels) then you really want to get it skimmed. Skimming is always the best thing to do for extended life...

not sure why. seeing it on the rollers yesterday, it has more torque for the majority of the rev range than most of those cars

Those who actually know, know that the F4R is always better when it has lots of miles under it's belt. As long as it's well looked after and leak free obviously

was it left idling for a long time before the run?

you also need to use the tabbed washer which gives the bolt an ofset pivot point

dvla mistake

your description of plumes of oil smoke on hard acceleration isn't inspiring. Be reet though

I love Treble X descaling solution for removing aluminium corrosion

close call between that and me getting a strap stuck on the metrosexual fiat

and very wet !!! hoodie and gloves were soaked through after the first 10 cars. We did 28 in all!!!! Think we worked out it was due a service when it was last run, and it's had one recently before this one. Didn't realise it was remapped!!!! thats not great could be all sorts. Dirty air...

a good pasting and some better fuel seems to have made the world of difference!!!

241bhp. I didn't see the torque graph