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i forgive you, just noticed the 'i' and 'o' button are next to eachother.....stop typing with your thumbs!

now its an opi-ionion!!!???

yea, took a million years.

you'll be the first.

it can help a little, the thermo plastic that the box is made of doesnt absorb too much heat, but worth a go.

ask fred.

valver/williams rods are technically the same between engines, but there are some diffs between the years as to the 'beefyness' of the rods. THey are about £282 + vat for the set, cant buy single. I'd be quite inclined to fit 172 rods as they are the same centre to centre and bearing size...

mine has zerop droop, cant even see any of it. Install it properly and it wont hang, get some new rubbers.

:D *sound of short arms waving and yellow hands meeting, emitting what can only be described as ambrosia for the ears*

:(

if you really want to know................................

Why do i rate leda better? Quite simple, their damping characteristics are better. Sure they might not be all ally or 'monotube'...............but as we've discovered, thats not something you want for a car that will be experiencing a multitude of surface conditions. And before either...

this is going round in circles. How can we tell you the change in fueling from an exhaust that you dont have and that nobody has data logged? Only way is for you to check, and the change from and exhaust, especially those avaiable is very very small. Hundreds of people are running...

there should be zero play.

you have to buy foil tape if you want the adheisive stuff. Its not bad at all.

Yup, we had alot of ours in HK (very hot climate) suffer with vapourisation in the fuel lines, and since they are not return, all the vapour needs to be bled out.

you'd be surprised, like i said, few tricks up my sleeve. Meggerman, sadly £1000 might only buy you the hardware.

MMMmmmm....lovely! shame i didnt get a go to see how fast it was

You will deffo need the bearing replaced, its been sitting round in teh rain no doubt. FOr a couple quid just do it.

someone kept turning in a tad too early lol.

Yup, very surprised, worked out great......you got a stormer, power and torque is just so linear.

it should be around 1 bar at 1500rpm and 3 bar at 3500rpm all @ 80c......

will what damage what? LIke i said, the only way is to stick your own wideband on, you could of had it on by now since this thread started and you'd have your answer.

We have a few solutions that knock you over the 200bhp region quite happily without requiring a new ECU and the drawbacks associated with them.

reverse and 5th become super vauge and you have to stretch to the lever....hate them.

nope, The breather area on the F4R is teeny weeny and imo undersized, so it wont blow off, it has a good baffle in the cam cover aswell. I'd rather vent it under the car tbh.

Changes are minute, and yes we all know about the effects of modifications on AFR's. However, some are so non-influential that testing isnt required, especially with the majority of half arsed exhasuts on the market. If you stuck something remarkable on and it was of good design, then maybe...

you can run the std ECU on ITB;s, but it tends to make them run really crap at low rpm's and you'll have a mass of vacuum tubes running around.

I'm sure plenty of people will be interested, just make sure the adaptor to the throttle body incorporates the original Brass radiused bit you find on the inside of the airbox.

anyone else hear a buzzing noise?