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Gimmie an hour, ill get it for you then email ya. PM me your email please dood.

That might be because the arch top heights are diff from front to rear.

Its in your dialogys

if the oil light flickered dont run it please. Get the sump off to look at the big end and main bearings.

Top Marques?

the gauge is repeatable and hence accurate, so its good enough. The motor will use oil when new, if you care too just drain and fill with a good mineral 10w40 and continue on your way.

Contact GDi and me, and together we should see you over the 200bhp mark.

cambridge

IF you want to be sensible, just keep it std. Half arsed mods arent worth much TBH. And the maxogen kit for the 172 registed the same peak gains as my viper developement did. If your looking for proper tuning PM me.

3 crap push on bolt retainers

AMD arent really a renault concerned firm, i wouldnt go to a a firm that hasnt got a clue about your car. ANyway, tuning the 172/182 isnt hard at all, just a question of do you have the cash. induction kits, exhausts and chips is all childs play and wont take you anywhere special.

New ECU, not a chip. And passing 200bhp is possibly with detail work on the std injection/plenham setup. But you needed stp looking for power until your up to near 300bhp in NA trim. Got teh money though?

cant help, get under your car and look.

Std pressures, or circa 32 when cold. Messing about with tyre pressures is an easy way to tweek or destroy the handling, and i am assuming you dont have a pyrometer to meature tyre temps across its carcass, you cant check and make alterations depending on hot spots. And is the motor fair a...

WHy not go for 16V bits, ultimately is exactly the same process for replacing the pads and discs anyway.

what was oil pressure like at all this? Im thinking along the lines of a shagged bearing.

Not sure, you cant adj the sunwheel as its located with a rollpin. You could try a willy shaft........sorry i cant be more help, im not in a position to measure at the moment.

If you want, but the cost of mapping goes up as you need to spend ALOT of time mapping from scratch, at least a few days as we need to sort the cold start erichment as this only works properly when the car is stone cold after a nights rest. piggyback is tweeking standalone is a clean sheet of...

The sunwheel is the part between box dif OS output and the OS driveshaft. Its a basic housing that allows you to continue using the tripod claw bearings on the end of the DS. I dont have dialogys as im on holiday in HK sorry. Been thinking about it though. The JC5 (willy) and JB3...

Much more user friendly and comparable Uni chips arent any cheaper. There are several unichips available with varying degrees of adjustability. You wont be able to run TBs with it as its still using the OE ECU settings, but input signals are altered to confuse or trick the ECU into delivering...

1000

I would definately go for the recon box, rebuilding a box doesnt always pay dividends and costs a fortune.

nope

yours is gonna rock whe its done Adam. i might want to try some parts ive got in me sketch book on it ;)

The DS should have no lateral movement? They are bolted tight and splines lockited. Maybe you have having a problem with the sunwheel (since its drivers side only), dont know if they are the same......

again! we talked about this 2 days ago. lol

I found a source but its not on this comp, specialised instruments or something. Older US marker Rens used camber bolts

hope you didnt go for teh advanced CAS.

more than 150mpg is handy! lol..... 7.2:1 is a very low CR, even for a simple 1 bar boost. 172 pistons are teh same size as F7R pistons, but they have a neat dish.