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There is no discernable difference and itll run perfectly fine on 95 stuff. But im sure alot of people will preach the benefits of 98RON fuel. Despite the fact that RON is a low speed knock test and has nowhere near as important an influence on high rpm performance engines as MON. Optimax...

pop down your ren garage and get some Elf Competition 10w40 or 15w50.

Coolant system flush gives the best results. ITs viscosity and temp that make the diff, along with the thermo properties of each oil. I run 15w50s which give 6bar at cold and idle, but 0 at idle when hot. I have 15w50s which get up to over 120 on track and at max rpm barely reach 3bar.

Its fine, dont worry. Most valvers do that with extreemly hot oil, although some owners might not admit to it as its seen as being a poor valver.

Stone in the tyre?

HATE them!

Slick50........the age old arguement. Its a PTFE solid dispersant, meaning particles of PTFE are circulated via the oil system to areas of MOFT metal to metal contact. Somewhere its meant to be an EPA and a friction modifier. Now, PTFE is GREAT when used as an alloyed film on bronze-lead...

Dont think so.

Manifold, downpipe and decat to join it to your existing system.

57 is a tad too small.

It doesnt really make the pedal any firmer as were all using servo assistance which takes out all pedal firmness. And the unions are the b*****d part!

Not really. If you need pics, get a buddy to help you.......its only 1 bolt, 1 finger bolt and pour oil in. And i wouldnt touch any slick50 product.

N20 is fun at the beginning. BUt i never use mine anymore. Cant be arsed going to get filled, cant be arsed having my timing retarded all the time, cant be arsed having to turn it on and off. Its not a lazy mans power oomph. lol

Yea, its not a bad idea. You dont need pics mate. Just take the airbox off, on the front of the box youll see a white (probably covered in crud) plastic wingnut. Take that off, and fill the box up from there. Like jay said its full when oil flows out of the hole. To empty. UNder the car...

Again........sheesh ;) Engine at TDC on non firering stroke. Find the figure for lift on overlap, or in other words, the lift for each cam at TDC. WIth the engine set, time the cams in for that value with you dial gauges on each tappet. Turn engine anti clockwise to measure inlet lift...

The sunroof is more likely to leak than the ariel as it can hold a fair amount of water.

said the exact same thing to him.

Nah. Hop down to halfords. Their orange funnels with flexi tube on are a perfect fit and allows you to fill the box up in about 1 min. Easy job.

Looks a bit of an untidy conversion. With carbs alone on a std engine you wont see much power unless you really sort the hot air problem. And you can already see the lack of space on that install. power wont be upped dramatically, and you will suffer in terms of running smoothness, pain in...

i couldnt find it either! the message body search function aint working.

better idea. But i prefer the lift on overlap method.

hehehe, do a search ;)

yes it will.

The pop is a simple result of the TPS going from no load and no fuel situations to min load and fueling.

Hmmmm.......the message body search function isnt working. Search one of the idle threads, as im pretty sure it was in one of them. Or ask jas ;)

If my group buy worked out instead of people always dropping out last moment, people would have the kit for roughly 400 quid.

Physics has nothing to do with vehicle and engine dynamics!

On the net, everybodys local! hehehehe

Ask them their method. If its the traditional max lift at x crank degrees, its almost certainly an engine out procedure.

yea, PM me and ill forward you his email addy so you can contact him direct.