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Just because its marketing ploy about b****cks magnetic oil clinging to metal. ALL ester based oils cling to metal due to the polar nature of the basestock.
And fulyl synth IS better unless your running in your car, using fully synth from the 1st mile will see you burning more oil, glazing...
Its summer time so just plump for some semi elf comp 15w50.
Flushing agents, dont bother, buy some crappy oil and run it for 5 mins then drain it again before.
Normal 95 RON.
Like people have said 98 makes no diff as the valver has no means to change ignition timing dependant on fuel. And when you use a fuel that goes through pre-flame chanes slower your essentially getting less energy from the burn transferred to the engine.......your choice...
If your not on a high milage yet i would continue to run a mineral 10w40 until you reach 2-3k. After that swap to Elf competition 10w40 or 15w50 in summer, its a semi and lovely stuff.
After a few more miles swap to fully synth, any 5w40 or 5w50 from a decent manufacturer is fine, but i dont...
Shouldnt be, i think you might of just put the cams in incorrectly and timed them wrong and messed with the VVT actuation.
And the breather near the air intake? The crankcase ventilation pipe on the elbow. Dont se how blowing in that will help. Or do you mean the MAP?
LOL!
yea, my car aint no beauty queen by far, its a workhorse and abused. Regular track outings wher 60+ laps are the norm and its driven everyday all day.
12 years old and 120k miles, still going strong.
When it comes off the road itll get treated to new bits and bobs.
The bore is...
The injection system when above 1500rpm doesnt fuel at all when your on no load throttle openings.
So when you apply throttle again there is a sudden enrighment period with a decay rate. So from essentially a negative torque output (engine braking) to a much higher torque production on...
Yup, dont be tempted to go as bonkers on a turbo, especially when your only option are cams designed for NA use.
Hang on, dont even kno what engine you got.
Anyway, dependant on the actual turbo system efficiency and manifold (exhaust) back pressure will really determine how much exhaust...
Went to cardiff today to meet the famous or rather infamous Andy Cutler of GDI.
We went to Pro Speed as he was having his system tweeked.
Whilst there i had a bike can in the car i brought just in case. Low and behold, about an hour after asking him if it would be possible i had a brand...
Thats what i was thinking, if he screwed up the timing of the cams by not locking the pullies then the VVT would be advanced in a non phased state, then advanced 16 degrees more!!!
Lucky nothing broke!
Before i touched th exhaust and filter (as the exhaust gains are pathetic) id sort the cylinder head, the inlet manifold would be matched and ported, top of the plenham cut off to profile the runner openings, remap, cams......then choise of exhaust and filter i would leave up to you.
So about...
erm, you seem a confused.
lift at TDC for both inlet and exhaust WILL be a value higher than zero. I dont know how you think that it should be zero, but yet you have the TDC values to set the cams too? lol.
But yes, thats the way you go about it.
jesus bud, thats somethig you would need to do yourself. I dont think anybody has those sorts of figures lying about.
Cant you measure the size of your engine yourself?