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What clio? Matrix is a bugger to change, but is usually the cause as it blocks easily.

[plasma arc cutter on} Now this might sound harsh, but seiously.......do you have an inferiority or image complex. Who in gods name cares what others think. I love racing, its my life, and if i cant afford to do it, i do this. But if any of you offered me a drive in basically any half...

Barrel? Forte stuff is harsh, but does the job. And ultrasonic cleaning of injectors is good, but most injectorsin our 16vs rens have a pintle design which doesnt clog that easy. But the injectors do break easy!

The injector runs off the coolant temp, not the inlet air temp which is on the far side of the inlet manifold, white.

the turbo will make more power easier.

about 175 conservatively. But it wont plunk in straight i dont think.

285 is a tad wild and i dont think that is how heavy they are, if your stilyl hydraulic that is. Running cams with a larger overlap tend to pay havoc with plenham setups as you get large pulses and no steady MAP reading. You can try close up the LCA if you want.

Such as?

cold star cuts in when below 20C.

i would expect you to be over the 200bhp mark with all that, if the work was done properly.

Agree, its rubbish. Dont ask me why, ive talked about it far too much.

This sounds slightly different, a missfire, not just poor idle regulation. CTS = coolant temp sensor ICV = idle control valve

yup Thats why sealed boxes where the inlet is placed near the bumper you steer clear of standing water. But the inlet has to be totally submerged.

the piggy back item is faily large, and will have wires sprouting, so its easy to spot. And its not 172 specific no. It works by intercepting the sinals from sensot to the ECU and adjusts them, the ECU thinks its doing something else and reverts to a different map reference.

well, i still dont understand. What happened to your current broke engine. Has water just messed up the electronics, or did it get inside and hydro lock it? Like i said, if water got inside, your block will be scrap.

lol!!!! 1.8_16v_Clio, if your interested, pop over at the end of the week and ill have a 16V head completed (hopefully) to show you, although it is a turbo head its near similar enough to get the rough idea.

You dont need the anciliaries so long as yours are working. Use all your old inlt manifold, fuel rail, injectors, TB, exhaust manifold and associated gubbins.

I wouldnt bother with cams on the F4R unless you are prepared to go down the route of piggy back ECU at least. Andy at GDI netted a gain of approx 20+bhp with cams and a remap on a 172, although it was a tad down on power to start with. Cams alone lead to a more peaky engine with no really...

moisture in dizzy, overfueling via possibly the cold start injector, check the CTS, ICV might not be bleeding enough air through.

Nope, engine is exactly the same within reason, bar inlet manifolds anda few other details which make no difference. Buy a whole engine, itll be easier, your top end might be damaged if it hydrolocked then snapped the belt. Mounts are all the same between the whole F7 range.

Nothing major and wont take too long, any normal tool kit will suffice. cable 77 00 815 667 CABLE ASS C2 9.82 ---3 x 1

bout 5 quid

I didnt even know the RT had a fan belt, having an electric fan and all. ;) Do you want to PAS belt or the alternator belt? Alt belt is V shaped with ribs, and PS belt is fat with gooves in it.

Firstly a bit more info. Get under your bonnet, engine runing and get a mate to turn the wheel all the way, left and right, watch the PAS pulley and see if the belt slips over the pully. If it does, replace the belt. Its a light/bonnet off operation so not too bad.

erm k....lol

With you all the way, ive been saying not to waste money on discs and pads etc when the whole lot can eb had for about 60 quid. I use the same setup bar my pads.

fill them up and go get new ones! lol

agree with that, only costs a few quid aswell.

wouldnt bother, horrid exhaust design and youll loose power