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only way to find out is to alter a factor and test again,.

yup, just surface rust which is perfectly normal.

isnt that on the right hand only? The clockwise bit.

Due to the increase in castor, when you turn either way, the increased strut angle ,make the inside wheel encounter more positive camber and the inside of the shocker top mount rubs the shock tower. There should be marking where it rubs. The mod is jsut to remove some material in that area of...

mintex pads should come with a material you stick to the back and trim down.

Inaccurate in that it might be a few degrees off true, but they are so simple to manufactuer that there is no point making one that will misread by anything more than 4-5 deg. And due to its nature, its accurate in its repeatability and comparability. So id say its fine :D And its gotta...

talked about it, and pointless....do a shearch. Too much effort for not much gain

the wishbones are slightly diff, but fit, and are diff part numbers. The ARBs are the same thickness and shape, use the same bushes and mountings, so they are the same i think, although the part number is different.

Cant remember the figures at the moment so i will have a poke about. But they are low impedance and made by bosche.

I dont think people here stick it on their 172s do they?

If you have ever used it on track then you will see that it will reach a higher peak than otehr oils, abuot 130 deg, and its motorway temps are circa 110 on all valvers i have seen using it. It looses alot of viscosity with temp aswell. And the handbook reccomends 10w40, but also gives you...

77 00 812 989 TRIM C/PILLAR L/H 11.65 ---3 x 1 77 00 812 990 TRIM D PILLAR R/H 11.65 ---3 x 1 I THINK! lol

can you mould them a bit better?

that sensor should be closer to 50 quid

just add the ABS spec when looking at parts.

the oil TEMP and oil LEVEL are combined, but do not use the same sensor. Oil pressure is a different sensor all together.

yes, easy job an hour or so. rears just fall out when you jack it up and undo the shocks. FRonts you need to take the strut out, use a spring compressor, replace the springs, do it all back up.

C57M

same part as the willy/valver.

it doesnt have to be stone cold. a few mins after any running is fine. You dont need to know the last ml of oil....

the RT injection kit is crap, its either the potentiometer and stepper motor, CTS and a dirty injector doesnt help.

mobil 1 is crap in the valver. Raises oil temps (without your oil cooler nick lol) by a good 10-15 deg peak temps. But typically msot oils are fine.

the diveshaft differences between ABS and non ABS is a toothed ring that you slip on the end of the drive shaft....apart from that, they are identical. You can buy the rings for about 12 quid each.

hehehehe

7000 is std.

the oil temp/level gauge is in the lower part of the block, near the dip stick. The one nxt to the filter is the pressure warning switch, and pessure is on teh rear of the block, right hand bottom side.

Do the 2 orange ones come from the ECU direct to eiter side of the coil, each operating 2 plugs. And one to the fuel relay?

the MOT doesnt require tyre sizes, only each tyre has to be legal in itself.

a tad isnt like 500 quid, more like 200. I would get them made if there is interest.

Good choice my friend!