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My ph1 has 130,000, still on original clutch and gearbox. Used on airfield events and driven hard. Only thing wrong is the slightly creaky suspension. I wouldn't be put off by high milage more interested in how it's been maintained.
On mine when I tried to clean it, it blew a 10 amp fuse and also caused the high vis rear light warning lamp on the dash to light up whenever I braked!). I replaced the fuse and fitted a new lamp holder/bulb and it sorted itself out.
Two small metal contacts inside the key fob can be prised upwards - they go a little flat after too much use. I do this every once in a while when the fob starts to become unresponsive and it makes the key fob zip back into life.
But who really cleans those sort of filters? I've had a go and what a faff!
I'm no longer convinced by mild tuning like exhausts, matched inlets and ECU programming (unless it's major tuning changes like camshafts and rebores). I'd rather spend the money on fuel, tyres, brake pads and on...
Renault say that carb cleaner will damage the throttle body seal/gasket (from Dialogys). They recommend removing the TB then cleaning it to avoid any damage. Might therefore be a leaking seal.
Hoping someone on here will know the following. Part of my front shock absorber mounting is worn - the bearing is fine but the big rubber donut is worn out. It means the metal bush now moves about. GSF sell something that sounds right: part number R45714 (STRUT TOP MOUNTING). Has anyone bought...
General stuff like throttle gunking up, idle control valve not controlling revs properly, the exhaust fell off, steering wheel deteriorating, worn rear wheel bearings, front suspension bushes worn, shocks worn and, SERV and Airbag wiring issue.
All simple to sort out - cheap as chips.
Quick question, in your ph1 172 does the ash tray have a light?
I ask as there seems to be an orange plastic window on the inside but there is no bulb behind it (it just looks as though there should be).
Thanks
Fubar did a guide on how to remove the dashboard - if you do a search you should find it. Take it off and take the bulb out, take it to an auto parts store - probably cost about 75p (or £4 if you choose to buy it from Halfrods).
May be it can be sealed but it will depend on how bad the leak really is. Lots of threads on this already (try a search 'rocker' or 'oil leak') and it is a common problem - mine leaks but not enough to be a problem and I never have to top up between 5k oil changes.
Has anyone found a good place to buy interior bulbs?
I need two for the dashboard (one behind the fuel gauge and one for the dimmer swtich) and three for the electric window switches, also one for the ash tray.
Cheers :S
If you can't start the car and clean the PAS connector up and the car starts that seems to be the issue - get the leaking bits replaced. But what happens when it's cleaned and you disconnect it again - will the car start?
:cool: They're been on for almost three years!
On 172 Cup shocks the bottom two coils of the Proline springs touch which causes the creeking noises IMO.
It's right, it is four and mine were the same. Most of the benefit will be felt by replacing the front hoses and the rear ones go on above the rear axle.
I had a fiddle with a window switch at the weekend and it can all the taken apart which is good as one of the bulbs has stopped working. Does anyone know what the bulbs are and where I can buy them? They are clear with long wires that wrap over the holder.
Thanks
It sounds like one has been replaced - on the cheap. They do weather after some years though and go a bit manky. You could just remove them and then do a respray.