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About 6-8 kg extra.

There was also the phase 1, 172. 14 kg heavier than a 172 Cup or 75 kg lighter than the phase 2, 172. With leather and the cold dry air nonsense. Either way, just strip them out and they're all the same.

Did you renew the rubber seal - it's recommended that it's replaced when you take off the plenum. Mine did this though after I replaced the ICV - idle control valve. Sorted it eventually by adjusting the ICV.

On mine it was the ICV (Idle Control Valve) that caused stalling, cost about £50 to replace and been fine since. ICV wasn't straightforward to replace though - gave me a 5000 rpm tickover at first ( a bit of poking round the inside of it with a screwdriver eventually lead to normal tickover...

Total £1,518.00 for 4.

Yea, I wouldn't fancy using copper grease.

Makes sense.

Isn't that running a little under power? I would expect it to have made closer to 180 or high 170s. On mine I have reduced the length of the cold air feed and it sits just below the headlight near the top of the wheel arch.

I read somewhere that lubricating bushes can help to reduce squeaks - question is what lube to use - normal grease?

The caliper. Bolts should be replaced ideally when you fit the new pads.

It sounds more like the ICV (Idle Control Valve), same symptoms as on my 172. They cost about £55 to buy and I think you can only get them from Renault (be cheeky and ask for a discount!). I'd get it fitted by an independant Renault specialist - I fitted mine and it needed adjusting, and was a...

Not just Milltek's are problematic, my Prospeed has been welded up twice and needs doing again. But these exhausts are better than Renault's.

So the hubs are different then? Are the bearings stronger, anyone?

M5 on the Avon Bridge Bristol, yesterday. First one I've seen with a bonnet smashed onto the windscreen - must of been a shock. Any one's on here?

I'm planning to take it to Alex at Carlton in Exmouth (which is where I live) when I'm back from working away 'up country'. I'll let you know what he does to fix it.

Yeah, could be it's not lining up right. When it's shut though it looks fine (gap looks the same as the other door) so dunno really. Cheers

Easy fix and possible price, any ideas? Cheers, Rob

My drivers side door is clunking every time I shut it. It's coming from the door strap. I've removed the star screw to get at it better and tried cleaning it and re-oiling, putting grease on it etc and nothing seems to fix it. Does anyone know what the cause is, what's worn and what needs to be...

Mine let in water through a small hole in the rubber seal on the roof above the rear side window.

Make it clear to them that you want them to fit the lightweight version.

Also be cheeky and try asking Renault for a discount. I got a discount from Renault for 172 Cup shocks all round, saving me about 45 quid (and they were then cheaper direct from the main dealer than anyone on the web).

No m8, but been thinking about doing it. I need to wait though for a few months as I need the car to commute and don't want to take ANY risks. It should become my second car hopefully in the spring. TBH it always felt quick as well.

Drivers' side and behind the wheel arch kind of behind the headlight - plastic box 30 cm long with a tube and some wires connected (sometimes it buzzes!).

Sorry to say this, but I found it made no diff in any way. My most noticeable gain instead was changing the CAF to larger dia. and an ITG filter.

Check with MarkCup, he's done this job.

Make your own ITG - easy enough: get a ph1 airbox from a scrap yard, an ITG filter (£45) and two pieces of big bore CAF pipe (£60).

It's most likely just the change in air temp as winter approaches. Enjoy it, the cool dense air makes for much better performance (and then even lower mpg!).

The 172 phase 1 can have 172 Cup front shocks as a stright swop, but on mine it affected the tracking very badly.

A quick going over with an old vacuum cleaner I keep in the garage seems to keep it working well IMO.

I've just fitted the front struts for a 172 Cup to my ph1 172. The bolt spacing is the same on the hub. Only problem with it is that it now drives like a dog! Just needs the tracking doing hopefully.