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I was looking for new shocks all round and the advice from Yozzasport was that the rear shocks are the same across these cars. The front struts are different though e.g Trophy use Sachs, Cups are stiffer than non-Cups.

I'm wondering about trying them on the rears, too. Judging by the wear on my rear pads it might be interesting to see the difference. Is this Grp buy intended for front wheels only?

Blimey, some quick 'uns!

Sorry, bit of an old thread! I think the rear shock absorbers on the 172 ph1, 172 cup, 182 and 182 cup are all the same.

Agree. There are some technical reports on the web about it. Dead easy to do, but the oil stinks of sulphur. Just buy a funnel, get a length of hose pipe and a samll piece of smaller pipe to go in the box. A 172 takes 3.1 litres.

Depressurising the fuel system was easy in the end, I got lucky and picked the right fuse to remove in the engine bay. All done and I swear it runs better for a new filter. The old filter was cut open and looked very dirty.

I got lucky. Mine went but the timing belt stayed ok - must buy a lotto ticket!

I'll try leaving it overnight and then try it. Rob669

I can't seem to get rid of the above by using Add or Remove programmes, and I can't find a folder anywhere on my hard drive that looks like a Java related folder. I get the foll messages when I try to remove it: ''The feature you are trying to use is on a network resource that is...

That's encouraging, uhmm. Thanks both. Maybe Carlton Garage might fancy this job!

I want to change my fuel filter (172 ph-with-an-external-fuel-filter) and I think before I unclip the connections I should depressurise the system. Question is how? I think you can do it by removing the fuel pump fuse and then trying to start the engine, but I don't know which fuse it is...

Lots to choose from. Try the Yozzasport website. I've got a Prospeed cat-back system - Prospeed are based in Cardiff.

Don't have the heater on. Let it get hot. The fan will come on when the needle on the temperature gauge goes above about half way, maybe some more. It takes time, just like watching a proverbial kettle boil. It should run through three cycles of the fan cutting in and then going off. I did...

Garden hose, funnel and a smaller bit of pipe to go in the filling hole. Works fine though. Might try Elf next time, the stuff I have now stinks to high heaven!

Should hit the disc gently with a hide hammer.

I take it you have enough petrol?

IMO it's better to use flange sealant than paste. It stands temps up to 350 degrees and is flexible. You can buy it from Halfords and it is made by Loctite.

I bought mine from KTec. Flippin oily things, though.

Cheaper than a new engine. Get it done now.

I agree with you, totally - these are not the same as turbo'd engines and won't see big gains by just a re-map. But with a matched head, better exhaust etc and then the re-map, you can gain some extra power. How much though, who knows. But I'd still like to know where the 20 ish extra pounds of...

The chart showing the comparison between Vamag and Fastchip shows a 4 HP and 22 Lb/ft torque gain. That's a lot of extra torque! What other changes were made to the Clio to get so much extra torque?

It looks fine, but the description you've written might put me off a little, TBH. I'd keep it brief and not go into the detail about it. Try £995, the fact the price is below 1,000 might be more attractive rather than a price just above. Hope it helps!

I'm not sure the throttle body contains the ICV, but I could be wrong as I've got a ph1 and it might be diff on a ph2. You might be refering though to the throttle position sensor which is on the side of the throttle body. Must be a photo on here somewhere.

:cool: I'll probably go for it, too someday.

:lolup: Is Mr Angry supposed to be me? :rasp:

Part number SM1514 KYB Suspension Mounting. I've checked the invoice and it wasn't £15 it was £24.77 in total. Still about half what Renault will charge.

What a pain, good luck!

The kit looked completely fine, it even had a Renault stamp on it! I'll dig out the part number and post it here. I got it from ALS car parts and I think it was £15 for each one.

On the Renault dialogys system I think it is as follows: 1. o/s/r 2. n/s/f 3. n/s/r 4. o/s/f I hope I've remembered that correctly. I did mine that way two weeks ago and the brakes feel great. Just keep it topped up before starting on each corner. Should be fine.

I don't mean to sound cynical, but I wouldn't bother IMO. Instead I'd spend the money of track driving lessons to learn how to drive the car to its full potential all the time. I've got matched inlets, better exhaust, ITG filter etc and frankly it makes v.little difference TBH.