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Nice work mate. Looks very tidy.
You could do with the door handles coding to match the bump strips. If you buy them from Renault for the ph2 they come straight ready to paint and are pretty cheap to purchase.
Agree Ben. Theres far easier more cost effective ways to extract power now than there was a few years ago, even a few months going by some current threads
Ben did my head a few years back under the GDi package from way back in the day. Not sure exactly what the difference is on its own but with basic other mods cars currently running 175 lb/ft as per RS Tunings rollers end of last year.
Cracking thread mate.
Is the steering wheel a re-covered one or a genuine new one?
How did you reduce the gap in the bumper? Just adjusting the mounts ?
As above plus one. What did you use to do the headlights, grades of paper, polish etc etc ??
Make sure you bring some air freshner. Your cars gonna stink of s**t and man fluids after a number of bodies have been for a spin lol
How long to run it in Paul?
I know what you mean lol Been through this a few years back.
Another way it to lift the clutch up on idle, labouring it. That usually brings the revs back down.
I have a Ktec item bolted to the ph1.
Its still on in one piece but is cracked in about 3 places due to belting off speed bumps, dips and rabbits lol
Chances are its going to crack and chip white but it all depends on how hard you hit the object.
Id say its pretty strong tbh
Have a look at the back of the TB. You might need to take it off.
Often there is wear marks where the spring has been rubbing hence the reason it wont shut.
Its a mass production hatch back. They didnt build it off the shelf as a race car. It has to be functional, safe and reliable too.
Majority of cars come with a engine cover. Makes it look better. Weighs nowt really. Only issue is heat restriction
Nah when springs go thats them fooked. Not sure if its possible to buy a spring and fit it. Sure ages back i looked into it, found a ''spring shop'' but gave up on the idea with the amount of hassle
Chances are a 2nd hand one will end up going the same way sooner rather than later. This spring lark is a wearing out thing, less miles, less use = longer life
Their not all the same condition tho.
Not everyone wants to buy a car and have to splash out another X amount of hundred quid sorting it out!
Plus not everyones handy with a spanner in which case it means a trip to a garage which equals big bills
Never had a bush replaced on mine yet...
Read the thread for the clues to how much its roughly going to cost and just how good this product will be.
Its all in their if you read it properly people ;)
Its a proper conversion kit this, big gains not a bolt on fancy IK
You'll be fine with the Ktec then. Only makes its main noise when its on full chant.
Magnex is agony, Ktec is like a breath of fresh air noise wise compared. You can have the radio on low, have a normal convo lol
If your ph1 has a minted shell defo use that one as your best car , dump the cup engine in and track the Cup.
Repair jobs are never as good. Paint chips off easier, theres always tell tail signs, rusts easier. Its just not worth the hassle if you have a minted shell sitting.
I came from a Magnex to a Ktec.
Ktec is a lot quieter.
If your after *zero noise and not fussed about maximising flow, custom 2.25'' bore system could be the answer
If your keeping the car for a short while lower it and have done.
If its going to be a long term thing then my advice would be to save up and go for a proper dose of power, (supercharger, Ktec 2.5k turbo conversion). Cams, porting this and that will end up costing the same in the long run...
Original quote of 1600 quid!! :eek::eek: If that was 1600 quids worth of accident damage chances are you'd have your car wrote off. :eek:
Are Renault taking the pi55 seriously. Its a poxy f**king Clio for gods sake not a Ferrari.
From reading on here the average price seems to be 5 - 700...