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Paul Mitchell?? He is reading way and not many know more about F7 engined clio then his people. Excuse my Geography but im not sure which side of London Essex is! :oops:

I got an email back from The Williams re-build chap - Mark but it confuses me further! See Below- The track control arm is basically the bottom arm - and i would imagine its the bushes on the inner pivoting end you have heard about. Not come across those wearing out though, but the steering...

were not talking about track rod ends are we? its the controll arm or rod, rod ends being at the rack end.

Was that fitted? i hear there is a special tool for fitting them which makes even main dealer labour charges comparitvly cheap. Not having a dig but replies like that are best posted rather then PMd as it will help people no end in trying to sort out little problems. Someone could easily have...

sounds alright, i was looking at the williams re-build site last night and there is more involved then i thought, have a look in the buying guide section. the price sounds fair and &75 for the part will give peace of mind it correct at least, the garage might get a discount on the parts from...

how much are the struts then? £40 for the top mount kist sounds very reasonable, remeber Euro/GSF may still be able to source the williams ones as the chances are they are from the same manufacturer. give them a ring to find out

Cant tell you for sure sorry but im intrested myself and have been trying to find out. there are mixed views weather they are the same parts of not, i would say the rears are probably the same but i would not like to say about the front, one thing is for sure - if they are williams specific...

track controll arms are cheap!! replace them as a matter of course. in simple terms the rack connect to the arm which are conncted to the track rod end via a threaded rod (For tracking adjustment) this is the track rod end the rod is a solid bar with a thread at one end (male in your case i...

im pretty sure early williams/valvers ran the higher stats (87?) and the later ones ran lower (83?) My ealry 16v ran hot then i swapped the stat and ran much colder inline with the lower temp switch it had always had then put a williams engine (1995) in it and cooler, and then i bought my N reg...

king - First thng tio replace has got to ht e the track controll arms (Not ends) these are a wearing part and are easily sourced and relativly easy to fit. They are attached using the nuts that are designed to shear and are tricky so would be money well spent on 2 hours labour. They are cheap...

there is no drains on the late electric tilt and slides. I can only assume they designed it on a Friday afternoon

very cheap, they are the same as R5GTT and many other renaults so there is a big choise of aftermarket stuff. the best value by far being the Max tirque ones from Rally Design. Replacment OE from Euro is front discs £14ish Pads £15ish Rears pads are dearer at about £30ish dont know about the...

not answering your question exactly but as your replacing due to wear its worth saying the wear may be in the collapsable part of the column which can be welded if needed. Basicaly there is a plastic connection somewhere on the column which breaks in the event of an impact to stop the wheel...

i got mine done by a sunroof specialist a few weeks ago, exact same problem as yours, i only required the outer seal (frame to roof) and the part is around £75 from renault but for the price he came to my place of work (Bristol from Tiverton) and fitted a new seal and additional sealing where...

Well done Ben, where did you get it from in the end? did you actually fit it yourself? bet that was hard work is so was it sill the boge one?

no rushg for the tracking, you could tell based on your old tyres and how they ahve worn - if they were Ok i would leave it as most places will do it weather it needs ot or not. Also make sure they dont use clip on rim gauges on your newly refurbed rims, floor standing or tyre mounted gauges...

interested also - how many hours rolling road time would you estimate is required for the inital set-up and then how long for re-map tweeks after that? just as a guide of course

i had a long chap with the guy who replaced my 16v arches and it the result of a bont behind the arch, the bit behind (about 2-3"s from the top of the arch is bonded behind the arch and often this causes a water trap behind the arch this is why the rust is so bad because i from the inside out...

you using a hillpower stage 1 williams chip? not pressed it out yet then? Must be a fair bit quicker given the state of the old head

just wondered how its going on? did you use a F7P head in the end? Any further problems?

dont know about the megan but the williams has a group A oil pump of some description, its certainly an uprated item over the 16v, i was constantly getting 6bar in my old williams engined 16v, when previously i would be lucky to get half that, but remebr alot of it is defined by the type of oil...

get themegan starter with the block, yu cant get away with the 16v one but use it as exchange with renault and the williams one is only £80 anyway

the F7R may even be marginaly lighter as its the same block but recesses are made on the inside to allow the longer throw crank to clear but then you will proably be carrying an extra litre of oil and bigger crank so there is basicaly nothing in it. Ive l loaded both engines into the boot of my...

its possible to replace the arch alone not the whole rear quater using standard base model arch (you cant buy a 16v/williams arch, but it makes for a difficult job of concealing the weld along what is an alomost flat surface where as if you pay £400 for the rear quater from renault to welds are...

so whats is the special method of bleeding? Unlikley that its my tried and tested "pull the bottom hose off the rad and stick the hose pipe in there"?

http://www.bbperformancetuning.co.uk/products/product.asp?deptid=95&id=209http://www.bbperformancetuning.co.uk/products/product.asp?deptid=95&id=209

i saw the pics of a before and after on F7 block and its looked fantastic. How does this process get such a precision hard wearing finish (assuming it is?) what would the process cost exc. refitting etc - purely the glaze to a bare block?

bad typing - done a few bits and bobs but freed millions of track rod ends from my old tyre fitting days (Great days!) its a fine art especialy doing the old vauxhall clamp fitting ones The double hammer trick is pure genius but difficult to explain

Jimbo thats exactly what im looking to do, I have a mate lined for the the head work as i that is more of an art then a science and i havnt got the time or money for trail end error learning. for what im planning to do Im purely intrested in the bottom end re-build, like you say oil pump...

i may not know much but i am the master of freeing siezed track rods make sure you heat it up till red hot an use stillsons on the bar, like anything if somthing is mega siezed apply steady pressure whilst hitting either side with a hammer (3 hands required) difficult to explain but trust me...