Search results

Yep. Its been covered many times befoe its just like any other Clio just need all the units then plug it in and it works. Do a search all will be revieled incluidn the legal stance etc on doing it improperly ie no adjuster/washer etc.

Mix about 1/8 of linseed oil and 7/8's whith spirits and wipe it on witha cloth let it dry do it again etc can take a few coats.

It has been dne by a German place was mega expensive as it was TUV approved and not massivly powerful 210hp or so due to being build wiht stock internals. Plus the belt arrangment was a bit odd. Not sure they ever did any conversions I think cost vs gains would have stopped people.

I'm 6 6 its not great but its a lot better than othe rcars of the size (and many other bigger cars).

Practice unfortunatly.

Change the gearbox oil if its not been chnaged at the age your car is its going to be absolutly junk. Thats the best idea to sort the issue or least remove what most of the time the issue is.

One side has n't dropped much fluid. Just bleed it then remove the drums and check it all. Maybe a pistons failed.

Depdns on waht your compairing it to. 33psi or so front 30 rear.

Do the same for the rears then there the nipple on the top of the drum.

If this is the 1000000th thread thread and you know then why not look at the answers for the previous 1000000th threads? What is your question though? I'm not sure if your insurance company quoted you two pounds cheaper a month and what help can I be with your query of if your next years...

Have you bled the front brakes? If so same for the rear depending what syste your using to bleed brakes though realy.

Yes thats the most likly problem there a lot of air can be in those pipes. Height well how bad is it?

As baove it become stock spec on later 172 about 53 plate they should have them (but again cars can be late registered etc).

There adjusters built into the back of the hadlamp units to adjust the lights sort it out the electric ajusters to adjust for weight only. You use a thorz bit I think to do it from memory its a bit of a pain space wise. Just stick sme locking compund on the nut and tigthen it if if its just...

Its not that badly priced from what I remembr.

Always a good idea servicng the car. Does it smell of petrol etc?

From what I can remmber from them you have to pay nearly the whole year that far into the policy at least another 4 month I'd bet.

Return to standard to sell it. Stock is probably the least buy racer ish spec ever.

I'm 6 6 its not great but I've no trouble with it. Its better than a lot of other cars.

Yep.

Its a different type of car. I realy regard it higly. Shame so many on her want to put it down aafter a few minutes test drive in a demo car.

The fob is the electrical stuff? £60 just for the metal bits well wel over priced.

Bit harst isn't it? Each to there own and stuff. There a lot of happy 172/182 converted owners who have lived with the car and love them. (rarther than people who have driven a demo for a few miles)

Key fobs £50ish I think the key is £12ish (cut).

Nope not always.

What springs calim and do is a different thing and lower not better. IMO keep with the stock suspension setup or spend a load.

Thats way to extrerme you'd be looking at serious problems at that level and you'd most likly have to be buring biofuels.

The only changes on the 182 were the none Cuped cars have different hubs (there 172 ones with 54mm spaced bolts) wheras the Cuped cars have the bigger hubs with the 60mm bolt hole spacing

Thats a common issue The 1.4's biggest problems is the Coil packs going and since there singular there expensive. The 1.6 is in essence the same engine realy just bored bigger.

Realy learn to drive it well.