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Headlightwise i"m assuming you've got the rubber covers on the backs of the lights? Not sure about routes for water ingress but when it happened to mine I put the whole unit in the oven at 70 degrees for 20mins which dried it out. Airing cupboard overnight would do the same job.

Hi mate done this twice, pretty easy tbh. When you say wires do you mean electrical wires as the power to the motor should be plug and play. If you mean the wires which do the pulling i'll try and dig out a photo. You able to post up a photo of what you've got to fit as sometimes the clips snap...

What have you checked? Pads worn? Anything loose flapping about under there etc? Might be worth getting the front jacked up spin the wheels and get someone to depress the brake see if you can follow the noise to the problem... Or garage like you say.

Yeah he wants to stop reving it and turn the engine off really lol

Here you go mate, whoever filmed this even shows the rev counter and if you listen you can hear the change in sound from sort of rattly old bus to normal as he revs the engine, skip to about 30s in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3b-nILpUDc&feature=related looks like I might have been wrong...

Sounds like you've not put the passenger side handle on quite right and it's not unlocking properly when you use the plipper. If your car has a key hole on the passenger door (some do some don't) have you tried a manual unlock and then testing the handle. I'd try taking it off and putting it...

If the rattly noise is your dephaser it will disappear after approx 2000 rpm. When the car is idling it'll sound a bit like a diesel or a traktor in my case (depends how shagged it is). Can't remember the exact reason but basically the dephaser/variable valve timing pulley makes the car less...

I'm guessing hammering is not recommended. Best bet is get down to a local garage or tyre and breaks place and you never know they might do it gratis. Can only be a couple of quid otherwise.

What! You can buy an RS for less than that pot of wax. You're mental if you buy it. Nothing wrong with the auto glym stuff, or any of the other carnuba based waxes like dodo juice from places like i4detailing.co.uk. bet you don't get free bubble gum from swisvax like you do with i4detailing

Has your battery died b4? In my experience once a battery has gone flat it's never quite the same again and won't hold as much charge. If you only had the radio on for 45mins on minimal volume and it drained the battery it sounds like thats the case and you just need a new battery.

thanks for the advice. I've not noticed any problems chnaging gear etc so hopefully the gearbox is ok. Will get under the car and check the drive shaft asap. Cheers for the heads up on the wet cv joint thing as well as I wouldn't have thought about that. This is probably going to end up at a...

Yep cheers Jay. It's wierd doesn't seem to come on at round town speeds. Soon as I get onto a straight bit of road and 'give it the beans' it'll come on, then if i slow down it generally goes off... Motorway it'll come on and off pretty well as it sees fit. But yeah will swap the sensor out and...

This - Did the same when replacing my knackered wheel, broke the squib and the serv light was permanently on and the horn was sounding randomly (v embarassing). Bought a new squib (slip ring) off ebay for like £20 fitted it and all was well. Put a nice picture guide up in the guides section to...

If you're going for a non-specialist for the belts do what IS1 says above i.e. check they are using the correct timing tools (not the laser ones which bend) and that they are using a full cam belt and aux belt kit - and seriously considder taking it to 519. Sooo many threads on here from people...

Bit out of my depth here. Been getting some unpleasant squealing, screetching, grinding noises from under the car after driving it on twisty country roads. Had a similar noise minus the grinding on my 1.4 which turned out to be the n/s cv joint lacking any grease. Having had the car on a ramp...

Thats the bent thing on the right with a rubber gaitor at the far end. Anyone got an idea on a ballpark figure for replacing it??

hmm if it's a pig without a tool I don't have then I think I'll get someone who knows what they are doing to do it. Looks like its bread and water this month then lol

think Fred means with the renault approved tool, not the one he's made. Fred B'ham isn't a million miles from Newport, if I was to bring the motor up to you would you be able to do the work and roughly how much would it cost for both sides?

Just had two new front tyres put on (front left had really bad wear on the outter rim) and when they put it up on the ramp to check the tracking they spotted a bent rod which I think is the track rod. The guy tried to loosen it to sort the tracking out but it's suitably bent he couldn't do...

If you go 172 get a flamer, best colour imho.

Hi When I'm driving and mostly on the motorway the oil pressure light and stop light have started coming on, either for a min or so or just a few seconds. Have checked the oil at the dip stick and it's at the top notch. Oil was changed by jms 3k miles/3 months ago. I've previously had...

Think the knocking comments refer to the engine in Shanes car after the bottom went, not the vid. Sounds like something is rubbing to me, if the kid had a smash maybe a belt is rubbing on summat. Wouldn't reccomend buying it anyway especially if this Nick chap has one for cheaper! Shane if when...

Yeah get an RS tuner then. I'd be impressed if you can find a garage or similar to do it (particularly with no rs specialists in town). The most challenging part is getting the right maps for your ecu and using the fastchip website isn't as straightforward as it could be. Once you've got the...

Wierd I had my oil light and stop light come on the other day and the digital display was showing 00------, topped it up and lights went out so kind of assumed when the display is down to one or two 0's that you are running properly low. Anyway I suppose the point I meant to make was its good to...

I'd go RS Tuner personally. If you flog the tuner on once you've mapped the engine then you're only out of pocket for the maps and unlock licence which comes in at around £100 with the CS discount. SO £200 cheaper (assuming you flog the tuner on for what you paid for it). Couldn't be happier...

it should always show when you start the car. Also if you hold the little stalk on the speedo down (the one you use to reset the trip, mpg etc) just after turning the key in the ignition it shows a little read out of oooooo-- which supposedly shows you the level of oil. all oooo's means it full...

Dunno about common fails but have read a few threads on here about the new rules that i think are in now e.g. if you have xenons and have deleted the washers they will fail you (not seen anyone reporting to say its happened to them mind). CV boots tend to let me down but then that's probably not...

Yes mate, live in Newport, work in Cardiff and RS tunered my flamer a couple of months back. I wouldn't imagine you'll find a garage to do it for you if that's what you mean by local service. If you've got a laptop or access to a laptop and about £200 (most of which you can get back by selling...

Awesome cheers Danny, no drama with a bit of hacksaw action. Where's this pipe you block off then or do you block a hole in the plenum that a pipe would go to in a 182? Cheers

Sod that for a game of soldiers I'm not welding things to make it fit, I'd have to hire a welding kit for starters. From the post I linked in my op I thought it was just a pipe needed blocking off 'Re: 182 inlets to fit 172 - will fit, needs a pipe blocking off' which sounded fairly simple...