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It doesn't do it in the mornings but late afternoon when i'm leaving from work.

Theres not a rachet. There is an adjuster nut under the heatsheild. Its also had new pads etc. Ive done exactly the same as Andyman added a second nut etc.

I dont understand why it goes slack a few days after being tightened though

As soon as the engine has started the revs die off unless I blip the throttle. Then the car is fine and idles/runs as it should. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Quite common. The rear pads bind to the disks when they have been sat for a while. If its doing it on one side you may want to check that your caliper is not sticking.

The sounder is under the scuttle panel which is what causes most of the problems as it gets wet and shorts out. The actual alarms unit is under the passenger airbag.

I would quite like my lights to come on when I unlock the car but not to flash!

What came of this as I'm having exactly the same problem with my PH1 and nobody answered my thread either!!

Its people like that who make our insurance high. I felt lots of hate when reading that advert!!

Mine cost me £22 from the stealers although that was 11months ago.

Spary it and then sand the writing down after

Ive just replaced my rear shocks with Koni ones as the rear end was starting to feel a bit twitchy in the wet. The shocks that we on there seemed pretty knackered but once compressed they would decompress themselves is this normal for the rear shocks, or do they sound like non renault ones?

Cable quality will make minimal difference to sound quality providing there are no breaks in it etc.

As a general rule of thumb ive always though the handbrake mechanism should click around 4 times and then the brake should be on quite strongly. However whenever I tighten my handbrake cable up to around this tension it seems to become slack again within a few weeks? How tight is everyones...

Did you use genuine rear disks as they come with new bearings already pressed in?

Just use common sense really. They obviously need to be reasonably tight so they dont come undone but at the same time you dont need to be hanging off of a 6ft bar to do them up!!

Ideally you want matched inlets, decat and then a remap. But matched inlets or a decat on its own is a good place to start.

The cast used for the inlets on the PH1 was notoriously bad hence the better results from matched inlets. See my thread here for comparison graphs http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=358476&highlight=inlet

Luckily chavs don't look after their cars so they will be crashed or knackered in very little time.

The clutch arm? If you take the rubber protector off of the bottom of the arm then look inside the hole left then you will see a white pivot. However you can't just stick a load of grease in there as you will get it all over the clutch plate so you have to very carefull get some on the pivot...

Nope theres a ratchet system on the pedal that does it automatically

Self adjusting cable so they are all high even with a new clutch

Did you ever find any 15" OZ centre caps?

Exalto PE2's for me although I only have 15" wheels so they are cheap! Very grippy in the dry and pretty good in the wet plus they are very progressive so its easy to judge when they are on there limits. I also found them good on the track.

On a PH1, 5mm spacers on each wheel will give you almost exactly the same track as the 172cup and gives noticible improvement to the cars handling.

When my friend at work had an M3 the performance difference between it and my clio was laughable. Trying it on with an M3 in a clio isn't worth the fuel!! I do however get people trying it on quite allot. Lately it seems to be 3 series drivers who I assume think I'm in a 1.2 with a sport...

I've found that the creaking on mine is caused by the clutch arm pivot. It's plastic and seems to dry out after time. Once its greased the creaking goes but then returns after a few days when it drys out again!

I was always told that generally you shouldn't be braking into first gear for the very reason that its bad for gearboxes. I've heard that gunning it in first all the time is bad for the box but the odd fast start isn't going to do any harm and unless your doing it from every junction then I...

I assume thats not easy to do?

Solved it for 3 days now its back!!