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Hmm, wish I'd waited to get my 4 wheel alignment done until after getting camber bolts. Thinking about it logically with the caster as camber increases I can see how toe in would be increased too. Still want more camber though
Seems to be a regular thing blocked injectors, I agree best way to identify ifs just remove plugs and put back on one by one until the engine doesn't sound any different, that being your faulty injector.
Just had my tracking done which has made it feel better turning in, before It was 0°08' total toe, now its - 0°14'total toe. Does a bit of toe out improve cornering turn in our is it psychological?
We checked the fuses, don't know which of the 3 wires to bridge to check but I have read not to.
There is a fair amount of green fluid around the receiver/dryer so I guess this must be the issue but weirdly it detected no leaks and when tested five mins after a regass didn't run. Again...
So I can't just pop it off and put a new gasket on then? I seem to remember he put 0.660kg in.
It's definitely the aluminium house that runs behind the rad to the passenger side that's leaking where it goes into a 2" diameter 8" long cylinder, where can I get a gasket to sort it?
A development, on looking for the pressure sensor (which I found) I discovered yellow /green refrigerant leaking from whatever it is the pipe goes to after the pressure sensor.
What is this and how do I fix it? And is it why the pump isn't kicking in.
To be honest it was probably longer than 20 mins, the whole process was over an hour.
How do I jump the pressure switch, Bridging terminals? Oh and where is it? Cheers Dom
It was tested immediately after a vacuum and refill so I'm hoping it would have been full. The bloke was looking for a plate on the car to tell him how much refrigerant needed to go in which he couldn't find??
How annoying, after a year of no air con I finally parted with 50 quid to get it re gassed which was near empty. Anyway after all that it turns out my pump isn't running, are there any checks I can do or easy fixes or am I going to have to shell out a few hundred just for a few weeks of...
Since having the inlet manifold off to seal the usual leaking rocker cover bolts one by one my coolant light has been on. Checked it was plugged in but its still on so do i need to put a new sensor in? Could be a good time to change coolant too.
Thanks Kev, that puts my mind at rest. I think mine had been going for a while explaining a few cornering issues, but once it had left a puddle it was really bad(not as bad as my girlfriends 1.2 RL when the weld snapped on the hub end however)
My old shocks cant have been bad when i changed...
Also an interesting observation, i compared old to new and the old one when compressed went down a full inch further, so would that indicate one isnt a cup shock. Grey/yellow circular sticker on my new but fooked 'cup' shocks, old ones worn off?
Standard but ive had eibach on cup shocks with no probs in the past. Ive just put an old worn but not leaking one on from last summer as i saved them just in case, good decision it now seems. The one i took off left a puddle on my drive while i fitted the new one.
cant find this when searching, some times and today included when I turn the key to start nothing happens. Today took three attempts leaving a few second pause between. Any one else get this? So far it always starts after a few goes but then may not do it for a week.