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Re: rear brake disc convertion!
yeah Ktec are good for services in my experience. Although the custom decats are a bit below par.
your best bet is to pull the entire rear beam setup from a donor car. a 1.6 16v (maybe) or a sport (definitely) Could be cheap if you do it yourself. Will involve...
keh? never heard about this. Don't see what could be majorly at fault. The downpipe/cat unit is quite well made (if not that well designed for flow).
Is is Phase2 or Phase1?
I'm running a viper on the 172 atm because I had one lying around.
They are ok. Noise wise, you can expect a very slightly toned down but better induction noise than your cone filter.
With a good caf you will imediately feel a difference (especially on a warm day)
The only thing is, the CAF is...
Life is expensive if you walk into a dealership with your tail between your legs for all your automotive needs.
Foglights can be had for <£50 on ebay I assume, probably including the stalk with the switch. Then Spend some time and work it out. Job done.
As for the sunroof, never looked into it...
cup has a speedo cable, same as the Ph1. you'll need that box or a ph1 box.
Ph2 has a speedo sensor built in, and that's going to be a pain to sort out. (new clocks etc)
a slight cracking while dry steering can normally be put down to a little play in the pinch bolt column/rack joint IMexperience.
How much was your rack? think i may need one.
epic first post mate.
Yeah a weekend will be fine if your fairly handy. You can get to know the car too :)
Ball joints off, disconnect rack and column, track rod ends out, dogbone off, gear linkage off, probably disconnet the PAS (alternatively leave the rack on the car if you can) 4 subframe...
^^ it's just a standalone ECU, like Emerald, DTA, megasquirt, VEMS, the list goes on and on.
Motec is good stuff, like emerald and DTA
Do a supercharger conversion. You know you'll only want more power after a few months anyway :)
If a TPS is cheap (and i think they are especially if you can find a scrap part) then change that. But my first thought would be the controller for the wastegate actuator. I know on VAG engines they call it the N71 valve.
Boys and girls.
I don't expect too many arguments when i say that 1*2 boxes feel like dairy-lea
I didn't get a chance to fiddle while my subframe was dropped and gear linkage off. Do you reckon the slack is a sh!t gearbox, or a sh!t gear linkage? or maybe a bit of both?
Would anyone be...
^^ I noticed better economy, but then I refitted with a brand new lambda - I would recommend that to you if your mpg is down, see http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=314560
Remember, as the rules of fluid dynamics state, the best pipe to weld inbetween your flanges will be the same...
depending on how corroded the bolts are (normally very, depending on age) you may need to grind em off and refit with new.
pros of the butchered cat is stealth, VOSA can't tell if they look under car (iirc they do this ??? maybe??)
Con is that it won't flow or be as loud as a straight pipe.
^^ Buy flanges / chop them off a cat. Then Weld in a suitable section of pipe between them.
Get the right diameter of pipe and it'll flow better than a butchered cat converter.