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Yeah that was the case, many said dealer only but it's now been proven you can get them and that was only for the Cup's for ref. I'm not sure who makes Renault steering parts but typically they will use better manufacturers like TRW or Meyle, that's 2 pretty good oem genuine parts makers. You...

I can't confirm for sure but 'SHOULD' be alright. Tbh tie rods for ful fat cars can be had easily and pretty cheap anyway, it was Cup's people were struggling with.

??? Know of any cheap DS300's

No point tbh mate if your getting the rack done, save yourself the job and get Birchdown to do the bushes at the same time or it will come with mounts if its genuine Renault rack.

Yeah mate they are first line, you could probably find better tbh. Store man at your local parts place should be able to cross reference 7701473656 Renault no. to different manufacturers. Micks Garage is cheap though. key thing is there around 331mm end to end.

Another thing that annoys me with people selling cars is "immaculate condition" etc etc, you go to view and there's dents and scrapes, kerbed wheels etc. Dishonesty too, I just got stung with a cup I bought that was far from advertised, mechanically a bit of a dog if I'm honest, should have...

That will do, I'm looking for a sportier ride but also still able to have 4's up with the 16" wheels.

Ba**ard just bought a set of sportlines, I was tempted by cooksport but chose Eibach due to me getting them cheaper. Sportlines are by no means bad are they?? My new cup will see a track/road mix in combination with a Whitline and new cup shocks. Im not expecting miracles with this setup but...

It is possible to do in place like most things, personally I wouldn't suggest it on a driveway tbh, racks are easier done on a ramp. Theres 4 main bolts for subframe, 8 small bolts to remove from strengthening pieces, cable tie up the radiator, unbolt the column and then undo your top caps on...

Could be anything, your the only one that can tell us. If your powerflex bushes wasn't welded its a good chance there knackered. If you have been welding your wishbones in any way I would suggest you replaced them, buy from anywhere but K-Tec, prices are crazy for most things. Always phone...

Sorry to clutter ops thread. For filling up Mick, take the bleed screw out while filling up until coolant comes out of there then refit and top up fully. Start car, get up to temp with the header tank cap off then jobs a good ene. All these French boxes seem to have a procedure all to their...

What controls hot and cold then on heaters? Changing the airflow around the airbox to avoid the matrix?

Sounds easy enough, although that shift pins are fiddly to play with when the box is out, will be a mare upside down. Yeah Fred, I'd be interested in 2.

FTR5277 and there fine, I have compared them against genuine Renault parts, they are around 5mm longer from one end to the other which will make little to no difference.

Do you have a picture of the suspension layout? I don't think it's possible to fit camber bolts like the mk2 Clio's

Yeah the ones I received are fine at 335mm. Micks Garage gave me all those numbers when I asked what other options there was so I know for future. All I know is I'm happy with what I got for £51, I was nearly £200 for the same on my racecar. I would try and get TRW or Meyle or similar next...

It's splitting a little where the top washer joins by the looks of it.

How involved is this kit to fit, surely the selector rod has to come out in order to get a new seal in??????

Point taken.

Yeah forgot to say have the heater's fully open on hot too.

+1 I just received firstline inners with QH TRE's from Micks Garage for £51 posted. All these part no's should work from various different manufacturers just quote the Renault number 7701472734 and they will cross reference, I'm sure they are listed as Kangoo van at most places. QR333985...

Tell them to feck off. S/Rack bush - 7701470760 - £27.22 x2

Just the bleed nipple, have the car idling while doing it and having the lid off the header tank will have the same effect. Get it up to temperature for both really. Iirc correctly your meant to leave the nipple out while filling up the system on the f4r.

The cage will stiffen the car up keeping shell geometry a constant if its tied into all the right places, it won't stop rolling, if anything it will increase it with the weight higher up.

You want to see my suspension imprezaworks, when you let it down off a jack its like the shell has been dropped on the ground, its all proven stuff that works brilliantly but you wouldn't use it on the road. I think the OP is leaning more towards track car than road car with this so shouldn't mater.

It will help the rear roll resistance, best to try it first as a few people on here recommend a stiff back and compliant front, all depends what you want though. Cheapest option is to try ARB first. What does a set of said coilovers cost anyway and are they a true coilover rear?

Your video in your PT did look like it was rolling around a bit too much. Get in contact with the FK and ask for other springs although it will end up under damped and could really be done with damping changed too. If that fails, take measurements of them and the likes of eibach, bilstein...

I think Neil might have tool's that he has no use for now.

There the worst to replace so I'll get a top end gasket set and should be good.

Oh it's not for my build lol, everything was done properly with genuine or better parts with all the right tools. It's just a cheap Cup I will use for knocking about for the summer and a few trackdays then give it to my mum so I want it fairly good but not going to spend a fortune.